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qorax

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Thanks qorax and Blix.. i am using 3mm silica wick, just follow Todd's methods.. But tonight i will try to use 2mm silica figure 8 methods, and using 30 awg kanthal instead of 32 awg i am using now..

When making figure 8 wick, does the wick have to be at the bottom on the juice hole, or slightly above it, means that it is not touching the base?

Tip-4: With a 2mm Silica in '8' and 30g Kanthal in LR -- I believe keeping the coil head facing downwards (image below) with its tails (connected) exactly on the terminal screws level is the best. Which actually works out to be 'as close as' the air channel (around 3-4mm above). I do it this way and they are working well.



While for positioning of the wick's loop ends, I'd trust the kayfun user manual... and let them 'sit' atop the bridge. Image below:



NOTE: With a wick & coil that far from the air-channel we will be experiencing a very airy draw... something I don't like, but YMMV. Thus I do a mix of both pictures... the coil as in the first with the wick positioned as in the second.
 
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vapdivrr

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vapdivrr, excellent video man! probably the best micro coil video i've seen to date, very indepth. i personally haven't made many micros but, i'll be making one for my kfl now after watching your vid! no 26g but i'll be using 28g for it...

thanks buddy. the 28g works great, no real difference. the only thing I kind of left out in the video is how I actually mount the coil. this is covered in this video.
 

vapdivrr

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Now that we have a pic of what NOT to do, do you happen to have one illustrating a corrected setup?



I'm curious about this as well. I've noticed that when my cotton touches the base, I seem to get more dry hits. At the moment I have the cotton cut to where its about 1mm above the base... there's a tiny gap so that it's not touching. Performance is better but I think there's still a lot of room for improvement.

i am not to sure about having the wick slightly above the base. i do the tails so their actually touching the base and then add a tiny bit more. if the tails are not touching they may be not sitting directly in the juice.
 

vapdivrr

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I'm having pretty much the exact same problem. As soon as I finished this last build, it was perfect for about 30 minutes and then I started to get dry hits. I would intentionally flood the chamber and it was great again for about 15 minutes before I got more dry hits. I've taken it apart several times and even trimmed the cotton quite a bit, but that doesn't seem to be helping. At the moment, I'm getting a muted flavor and the dry hits are coming less frequently, but its still not quite there.

One interesting thing I've noticed is that when I take dry pulls to flood the chamber, air bubbles are only rising from one side. In my mind, I'm expecting to see air rise from both sides. I'm thinking maybe only half my cotton is getting juice and its the other half thats causing the dry hits and muted flavor. I'm going to take it apart in about half an hour to inspect.

if when you do a set-up and have the tails down to the base and then a little bit more the next thing is to screw on the sleeve without the top hat, this is when you must add a bunch of juice. saturate the coil very good, what happens next is the juice will start to leak out from the bottom. before screwing on the hat and tube just press down the tails again, making sure they are down to the bottom and slightly across the base. once the tails are positioned and saturated they shouldn't move upwards and out of the juice zone. because of the angle of the coil, if the tails aren't long enough and are not fully saturated they might be able to pop up and out of the juice zone. also the coils need to be perfect in diameter, if one coil is loose to the wick and is not making good contact it can develop a hot spot causing the wick to dry out. also if you have a long coil and its angled over the air hole this makes the tails come down on a greater angle towards the juice zone, in these cases the tails need to be even longer so they angle down and lay with ease.
 

vapdivrr

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Great video, vapdivrr, I posted a link over in the 804 thread. The deck on the 804 is slightly different but close enough that your video will be helpful for anyone building the 804 for the first time or trying a micro coil for the first time.

thanks, hopefully it helps
 

thatton

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What type of gauge of wire would you guys use on the lite? All I have is 28g and I don't know if that's preferred or not

I've tried both 30ga and 32ga NiChrome but I haven't used any of my Kanthal wire or my 28ga wire. 30 seems to be the sweet spot for the figure 8 coil or whatever you call it.
 

vapdivrr

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also for those who like to tinker with the micro coils, here is another variation that I use. this imo produces a little better flavor. when making the coil try to make a separation between the center coils, lets say you have a 10 wrap, so between the 4th and 5th coils make a gap of 1 to 2 mm. you can do this as your making the coil or after by prying a gap. this will be the only separation as all the others will be touching. after you slide the wick through the coil just pull up part of the wick through this gap, , pull it out about an inch(if doing this make sure the wick is extra long to begin) this makes a 1 inch loop above the coil, now cut this loop and take one end to the juice and take the other end of the loop to the other side in the juice. these ends along with the regular ends of the cotton wick now makes 4 legs to wick juice(2 at each end), its like having 2 separate coils, with 2 separate wicks, although the coil is actually one. this 4 leg coil might help for those who may be having wicking issues. just don't use to much cotton.
 
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vapdivrr

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i was messing around today with these micro coils and decided to instead of all wraps touching i made some with gaps between, sort of like a standard coil, maybe with a 1mm gap between all coils. to my surprise i was getting dry hits. what i think happens with these micro coils is for one, they get a lot hotter because of the very small diameter of the coil, and when all wraps are touching the juice seems to be contained within, sort of like a cocoon. now when gaps are present between the wraps the juice that is wicked from the cotton might seep out thus drying out the wick causing dry hits. now in a regular coil with gaps the diameter is a lot bigger and this doesn't matter, but in a micro coil it seems like the key to a great build is to try to have the wraps all touching, the tighter the better. this is just an opinion on if the wick is really drying out because of the gaps, but all i know is this gapped micro i just made is producing some dry hits which i have never experienced before with these cotton builds.
 

fordski

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What vendors are selling them for cheaper? I'm ready to do some more shopping!

Try intaste, they were rumoured to be getting some stock in around the end of July. You need to set up an account to see the lower price without taxes. Also click on the British flag for English on the top right corner. If they don't have them in stock they have a very good notification system when they do come in stock, they're cheaper (they deduct the tax for foreign orders) and ship via Fedex in about 4 days. Although they do have a limit as to how many they can export in a day so sometimes the shipping can be delayed if they have a lot of orders. I picked up a mini Kayfun on Monday and it should be in my hands this Friday.
 
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donnah

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i was messing around today with these micro coils and decided to instead of all wraps touching i made some with gaps between, sort of like a standard coil, maybe with a 1mm gap between all coils. to my surprise i was getting dry hits. what i think happens with these micro coils is for one, they get a lot hotter because of the very small diameter of the coil, and when all wraps are touching the juice seems to be contained within, sort of like a cocoon. now when gaps are present between the wraps the juice that is wicked from the cotton might seep out thus drying out the wick causing dry hits. now in a regular coil with gaps the diameter is a lot bigger and this doesn't matter, but in a micro coil it seems like the key to a great build is to try to have the wraps all touching, the tighter the better. this is just an opinion on if the wick is really drying out because of the gaps, but all i know is this gapped micro i just made is producing some dry hits which i have never experienced before with these cotton builds.

Mine was vaping great yesterday, great flavor, vapor and wicking perfect, I was thrilled. Then I refilled it...careful to not overfill ...dry hits. My coils are tight and touching. My wicks are the same as when it was wicking well. All I did was refill it. This balance/equalization of air pressure is tricky!

After a few minutes of some really hard vaping, it seems to be coming around. I remember when I first started with carto tanks.. I had a really rough time with flooding and leaking but once I understood the principles on how it worked, I never had any more problems. I'm hoping it will be the same with this. when everything is right and it's working ... there's nothing better. But if something isn't right, be it the coil, the wick or the air pressure thing.. there's nothing worse. I'm not really concerned though, I'll figure it out :)
 
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thatton

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thanks buddy. the 28g works great, no real difference. the only thing I kind of left out in the video is how I actually mount the coil. this is covered in this video.


That is a beautiful micro coil! I really need to have my try at those. How do you pull your wick through once the coil is already wrapped though? Twist really tight?
 

Rule62

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Yah, Intaste is selling for cheaper but they are out of stock. Plus I heard that the shipping in C9 would take around 7-10 business days for international whereas Intase use DHL and it can be fast as 3 days

Can't beat UPS and DHL. I've bought stuff from Greek suppliers that arrived in less time than orders from U.S. vendors 3 states away, that use USPS. No wonder USPS is broke.
I ordered 2 KLites from Cloud9 Monday. I don't expect them until early next week. They ship via Royal Mail, which I assume is transferred to USPS once it hits the states.
 

nelsonm64

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thanks buddy. the 28g works great, no real difference. the only thing I kind of left out in the video is how I actually mount the coil. this is covered in this video.
after watching your first video i got to thinking how i was going to go about mounting it and thats pretty much exactly what i was thinking lol. another great vid bud. now, to actually do it ;)
 
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