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MrPicC

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That third shot looks like a cylon bay ship :)

Sorry that really adds nothing to the conversation. I'm just a stalker to this thread really. Love my kayfuns and own nothing else but not much to add :)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4
 

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crss

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    I'm using rene 41 in a kayfun mini with cotton wick, works pretty well, this is a 1.4 ohm coil











    I've removed one of the smaller side cottons since these photos to increase airflow a bit, was a little choked with both

    Have you tried to tighten your coil up? My micro coils are all touching. When i have gaps, the fluid will caramelize & gunk up, taste foul and kill the wick fast. Next build try a tight coil. That wire looks nice, but the 100' of 28g & 30 & 32g Kenthal... + some flat... I think i can hold of a few months, testing a new r wire. LOOKS GREAT!! But the mini, might not fit my hands.
     

    turbocad6

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    I tried a micro but the wire is so thick that my micro came in at a very low resistance and it burned the cotton too easily.

    I just removed the second side cotton wick to see if just the center one would keep up, so far it seems to, still trying to get an ideal setup, maybe I'll try with the coils touching on the next build but whenever I try this I wind up having at least one spot not fully touching and get a hot spot so I then spread them to eliminate it
     

    Lando80

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    yah I guess if they happen in unison its to much of a coincidence, so one might be creating the other. is it possible that because the ceramic doesn't hold much juice that it floods? I wonder what would happen if the k-lite was set up with no wick at all, just a coil, would it flood? is it possible that silica or cotton prevents the atty from leaking? not really sure. also would the device tend to flood more if someone were to live in higher altitudes? I still haven't figured out all the possibilities of this pressure atty yet. how is your o-ring in the tin cap? I know that little oring is a vital part when it comes to the pressure.
    Just got back from Boulder Colorado with my K lite for 5 days. The answer is Yes, altitude does effect the feed. I run an identical setup to Vapdivrr with cotton and micro and its glorious but at 6500 ft it gurgled and spit out the intake constantly. I didn't rebuild while at altitude but I am guessing a traditional silica 8 build would work better as it tends to wick a bit less.
     

    Lando80

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    Just received my Kayfun lite today from vape revolution, (vaperev), and wow is all I can say. I built it with 3mm ekowool with a .7 ohm coil consisting of a 2/3 wrap of 28g kanthal. I torched the ekowool before building, it took a couple mils of juice before the flavor came out but WOW!

    The flavor is amazing, the vapor production is excellent and the throat hit is there! I'm going to have to step down from 12mg nic with this thing! It vapes better than I had hoped!

    It's an amazing device for sure. After watching and reading many reviews, I finally understand.

    I'm blown away by it. I definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a stellar vape!

    Sent from nsa spy satellite

    I ran that setup for a month and was convinced that vaping couldn't get better. Then I tried Vapdivrr's cotton and micro build and my head exploded. I was reluctant to try it as I was soooo satisfied with my original build but I am really glad that I got adventurous. Trust me, it actually can be better. Try it!
     

    turbocad6

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    I wonder what causes a difference at a higher altitude...while static at rest it wouldn't make a difference, even though the pressure is less the pressure would still obviously be equal in and out, my guess is that at a lower atmospheric pressure the pressure differential of the draw has much more effect. for example at 14.7 psi at sea level with a -1.5psi draw is a 10% difference in pressure,where at 6,500 the absolute pressure is ~11.5, so the same draw is maybe 30% more draw, relatively speaking?

    another factor may be that as the atmospheric pressure goes down the boiling point of a liquid will also go down, but this should cause the opposite of what you experienced, so I'm guessing that part of the equation isn't as relevant? I guess at higher altitude you might need to open up the draw somewhat on an adjustable kayfun to cause less relative pressure difference, or just draw with less negative pressure with a lite, the draw must cause a higher pressure differential at the lower atmospheric pressures of higher altitude... the pressure difference of a higher altitude itself isn't the cause, but it needs to be compensated for in the delicate balance the kayfun needs, just as a cars fuel injection, less atmospheric air pressure means less air density, and unless some fuel is cut back the mixture winds up too rich, I wonder how much air density could be a factor too? my guess is it's still mainly because the draw causes a higher pressure differential as the biggest single factor, causing more flooding at higher altitude and would need to be compensated for by effecting less pressure differential on the draw.
     

    james1980

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    so iv been making my kfl micros with 12 wraps of 28g on a 5/64 bit and have hade good results after fresh build but after about a day vapor tapers down, iv been reading your posts and see that most of you use a 1/16 bit so I did a 10 wrap of 28 on a 1/16 bit got a ohm reading of 1.1 it is hitting harder on my nemesis and kick 2 at 13 watts but does not wick as well as the 5/64 diameter did does not seem to keep up as well is there a trick to getting the 1/16 to wick without drying out
     

    -SMT-

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    ^ I use 1/16 drill bit (1.6mm)

    The trick i have found is to us a smaller wick (if your using cotton).
    I dont pack or roll my cotton tight.....and i make sure it slips thru the coil with very little resistance. If you're having trouble putting it thru the coil....its too big. Remember, the cotton will swell in that coil...if its packed too tight, it cant wick fast enough. This alone has made all the difference in the world for me.

    Also, my wick goes down the sidewall and across the base and covers the base by maybe 3/4. I make sure the cotton is pushed away from the juice channel (the bottom part of the wick lies on the base, but is pushed against the wall).

    This has made my wicking problems vanish...it now soaks like a sponge, i cant get a dry hit if i tried. I worry more about flooding it.....

    Hope u get it sorted.
     
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    qorax

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    ^ The trick i have found is to us a smaller wick (if your using cotton).
    I dont pack or roll my cotton tight.....and i make sure it slips thru the coil with very little resistance. If you're having trouble putting it thru the coil....its too big. Remember, the cotton will swell in that coil...if its packed too tight, it cant wick fast enough. This alone has made all the difference in the world for me.

    Also, my wick goes down the sidewall and across the base and covers the base by maybe 3/4. I make sure the cotton is pushed away from the juice channel (i just pack it against the wall).

    This has made my wicking problems vanish...it now soaks like a sponge, i cant get a dry hit if i tried. I worry more about flooding it.....

    ^Well said.
     

    Rule62

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    ^ I use 1/16 drill bit (1.6mm)

    The trick i have found is to us a smaller wick (if your using cotton).
    I dont pack or roll my cotton tight.....and i make sure it slips thru the coil with very little resistance. If you're having trouble putting it thru the coil....its too big. Remember, the cotton will swell in that coil...if its packed too tight, it cant wick fast enough. This alone has made all the difference in the world for me.

    Also, my wick goes down the sidewall and across the base and covers the base by maybe 3/4. I make sure the cotton is pushed away from the juice channel (the bottom part of the wick lies on the base, but is pushed against the wall).

    This has made my wicking problems vanish...it now soaks like a sponge, i cant get a dry hit if i tried. I worry more about flooding it.....

    Hope u get it sorted.

    Exactly! I build the same way. A few days ago I experimented with a cotton yarn wick. 100% cotton, boiled in distilled water and dried. I didn't find the result to be as good as plain old cotton balls. I assume it's because the yarn is twisted too tight. When I use cotton balls, I don't twist them too much. I leave the cotton pretty fluffy. After I've put the chamber tube on, I prime the cotton with a few drops of juice, and then use a mini screwdriver to move the tails away from the juice channels, and up against the ledge.
     

    crss

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    take a few pictures & post em please... I just like to stare at LITE builds. I might re wick my 1st LITE. It is 1 ohm micro coil built on 1/16 drill bit, cotton ball wick. It has been working perfect since "end of July". Plan for the day, enjoy pain meds. Vape my GUS + LITE topper. Few hours, when fluid is low. Tear down LITE, clean, remove wick, dry burn coil... But i am recovering from knee surgery, IE pain meds. So, "Plan", were is the mail man with my new PAPS SS v2.5??
    GUS-LITE_clear.jpg
    Have a great day.
     

    Aal_

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    Friends, I have attempted 3 microcoils so far in the lite the 3.1 and the mini so far. 28 gauge wire wrapped around a 14 gauge needle with 8 turns outto be 1.2 ohms. ImI'm using cotton hemp wick Martha Stewart doubled inside the coil. Well in the 3 attempts at 10 watts the wick is burning fast. I'm doing a loop and making sure not blocking the channels. But I'm afraid my problem is somewhere else like choking the wick? Can someone suggest what can be wrong?
     

    gankoji

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    Just got back from Boulder Colorado with my K lite for 5 days. The answer is Yes, altitude does effect the feed. I run an identical setup to Vapdivrr with cotton and micro and its glorious but at 6500 ft it gurgled and spit out the intake constantly. I didn't rebuild while at altitude but I am guessing a traditional silica 8 build would work better as it tends to wick a bit less.

    What I wonder about, is if while at altitude, maybe if you had rebuilt (or at least emptied and refilled the tank), maybe you wouldn't have experienced these problems. It is known that the Kayfun depends on Tank pressure to feed the wick. Perhaps containing normal sea level atmosphere in the top of your tank, and then moving to altitude, was your only problem. I can't say for sure, and we won't know until someone attempts this, but I have a sneaking suspicion that this is the real problem.


    I wonder what causes a difference at a higher altitude...while static at rest it wouldn't make a difference, even though the pressure is less the pressure would still obviously be equal in and out, my guess is that at a lower atmospheric pressure the pressure differential of the draw has much more effect. for example at 14.7 psi at sea level with a -1.5psi draw is a 10% difference in pressure,where at 6,500 the absolute pressure is ~11.5, so the same draw is maybe 30% more draw, relatively speaking?

    another factor may be that as the atmospheric pressure goes down the boiling point of a liquid will also go down, but this should cause the opposite of what you experienced, so I'm guessing that part of the equation isn't as relevant? I guess at higher altitude you might need to open up the draw somewhat on an adjustable kayfun to cause less relative pressure difference, or just draw with less negative pressure with a lite, the draw must cause a higher pressure differential at the lower atmospheric pressures of higher altitude... the pressure difference of a higher altitude itself isn't the cause, but it needs to be compensated for in the delicate balance the kayfun needs, just as a cars fuel injection, less atmospheric air pressure means less air density, and unless some fuel is cut back the mixture winds up too rich, I wonder how much air density could be a factor too? my guess is it's still mainly because the draw causes a higher pressure differential as the biggest single factor, causing more flooding at higher altitude and would need to be compensated for by effecting less pressure differential on the draw.


    The 'relative intensity of the draw' angle is another good one. I might have to look into that.
     

    crss

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    What I wonder about, is if while at altitude, maybe if you had rebuilt (or at least emptied and refilled the tank), maybe you wouldn't have experienced these problems. It is known that the Kayfun depends on Tank pressure to feed the wick. Perhaps containing normal sea level atmosphere in the top of your tank, and then moving to altitude, was your only problem. I can't say for sure, and we won't know until someone attempts this, but I have a sneaking suspicion that this is the real problem.





    The 'relative intensity of the draw' angle is another good one. I might have to look into that.
    You can also change the drip tip, to an "OPEN" draw style. The OEM drip tip, sire is a tight draw. It is all seals, bad seal any were & it will leak. Hello fellow BP resident.
     

    Tennovan

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    james1980

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    Beautiful coil but from the pictures, it seems like its touching the air hole in the center? If so, you might try raising it a mm or two.

    I realized that after a few puffs to tight I raised it a bit and its working great, also I put on a wider drip tip and it is def wicking better, maybe that was the problem all along with the stock drip tip
     
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