I am not a fan of the included tip. The air hole is way to small IMHO..
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I am not a fan of the included tip. The air hole is way to small IMHO..
I believe the small hole is part of the design. Not sure of the physics behind it, but I tried a more airy drip tip and vapor production went way down. Could be the "venturi effect" for acceleration or something.
I read about some wicking issues and stuff here, which makes me believe I must be awesome at making wicks/coils.. so far I have built my KFL with Ekowool, Cotton balls, and Silica and have YET to have it flood, dry hit, or perform in any other way than awesome. Hmm..
I don't understand.. this device is amazing and I'm going to fanboi it until it no longer can be built or works...which may be a very, very long time!
I don't understand.. this device is amazing and I'm going to fanboi it until it no longer can be built or works...which may be a very, very long time!
the kayfun technically relies on tank pressure to feed the wick, but it's more pressure differential than just pressure itself. I don't mean to keep beating a dead horse here trying to explain this but I'm trying to help, not trying to show that I'm a know it all, I hope I'm not coming off that way, but I'll explain a little more about this incase it's still unclear and anyone really want's to understand it better
at sea level the atmospheric "pressure" is right around 14.7 PSI... now everything around you is at this same atmospheric pressure, the atmospheric pressure in an empty open bottle is, although not considered to be pressurized as it is just open and unsealed, but it is technically at atmospheric pressure of 14.7 PSI, it could also be said to be at a relative pressure of 0 PSI. now if you screw the lid onto the bottle and pump it up to 5 PSI, or what you would read as 5 PSI on a pressure gauge, then technically, from a scientific point of view, the real "absolute pressure" of the air in that bottle is really 19.7 PSI, the reason why a gauge would only show as 5 PSI is because any gauge only shows the pressure over and above the static atmospheric pressure, this is called relative pressure, so a gage makes the absolute pressure as 0 reference point, and then only shows the pressure over and above that, relative to a base which is called a 0 as a point reference
pressure will always equalize if it can, it can't in a sealed bottle of course, but once you crack open the bottle and nothing is sealing it off the 19.7 PSI absolute, it will automatically release the additional 5 PSI to equalize to 14.7 PSI, same as everything around it. many will just assume that the opened bottle is at 0 PSI and it is almost correct to even say that it is at 0 PSI, because it is equal to base atmospheric pressure, so 0 PSI above atmosphere and 0 PSI relative pressure
the point of this is, as you ascend to a higher altitude the absolute pressure will drop, and when the pressure around the kayfun winds up going lower than the 14.7 PSI it was at to begin with it will automatically release whatever amount of pressure it happens to be above the then current atmospheric pressure, point being that when the kayfun arrives at 6,500' it has already bleed off it's additional pressure by way of ejecting juice assuming it was vertical the whole time, but now, at 6,500' the internal tank pressure would be at the current atmospheric pressure which is ~11.5 PSI. at that point it will be at relative 0 psi in the tank, same as it would be at sea level, 0 psi relative... rebuilding it, or opening it, or anything else would make no difference because it will regulate the internal and external pressure in real time and already be equalized. I know, long boring story but maybe someone actually wants to know this stuff
how the kayfun works is, the tank is always at 0 relative, as is of course everything around it... when you draw you wind up creating negative pressure (vacuum), so lets say at sea level, the tank is at 14.7, everything else is at 14.7, it's equal, no leaking or ejecting fluid, but now you draw and may wind up making the absolute pressure inside the internal stack down to lets say 13 PSI absolute, or we can also say a -1.7 PSI relative vacuum, same thing, but as pressure needs to always equalize the tank is now at 14.7 while the inner chamber (where the 2 holes lead to) is at 13 so it will eject fluid as it tries to equalize, lets say the tank "leak" or "feed" is fairly restrictive, so the tank will not automatically just drop to the 13 but it will slowly drop towards that, so lets say by the time you finish your draw the tank winded up being sucked down to 14.2 PSI, then you stop drawing... now the chamber pressure automatically returns to 14.7, or 0 relative, and the tank is down to 14.2 or -.5 PSI so it again equalizes and in doing so takes back in air to make this happen, hence the rising air bubbles...
"pressure" can be a difficult thing for many to fully comprehend without fully understanding exactly what pressure actually is, but in laymans terms the kayfun tank is really never ever pressurized over and above atmospheric pressure, so it is always at 0 PSI relative, no matter what altitude you are at or no matter what the absolute atmospheric pressure happens to be. I see so many confuse this stuff because it's one thing to talk about absolute pressure and it's another to talk about relative pressure and many confuse the 2, it is correct to say that the kayfun tank may be pressurized to 14.7 PSI at sea level but that is not the same as pressurized in what most think of when they do think of pressure because most think of pressure only in the relative term, 14.7 PSI absolute is really 0 psi relative, meaning no pressure over and above atmospheric pressure, in the relative sense the kayfun tank is really never pressurized at all, ever. it's not "pressure" itself that causes the feed in the sense that most think of what pressure is, it's pressure differential, or lack of pressure in the atty chamber that actually causes the feed by way of vacuum as the internal pressure tries to equalize
I don't know if I clarified this for anyone or just confused them more so I won't even start to talk about venturi effects and how they relate to the kayfun's draw and feed, probably already got to deep on just the pressure stuff alone I guess, but hopefully this may help shed some light on the subject for anyone who is confused as to how it actually works. and just for the record the kayfun is not the first to use the whole pressure equalization technique to feed the atty, all of the slip on carto tanks with a hole or 2 in the cartomizer are really working on the same exact principle, kayfun just altered the way it does this with the whole bottom feeding passage to the chamber but it is not very different from other carto tank systems in the way it uses pressure differential
I am enjoying my vape gear??? am i supposed to read this all? Thank you. I will understand it ( i hope ) later on. My 3 lites are rocking.the kayfun technically relies on tank pressure to feed the wick, but it's more pressure differential than just pressure itself. I don't mean to keep beating a dead horse here trying to explain this but I'm trying to help, not trying to show that I'm a know it all, I hope I'm not coming off that way, but I'll explain a little more about this incase it's still unclear and anyone really want's to understand it better
at sea level the atmospheric "pressure" is right around 14.7 PSI... now everything around you is at this same atmospheric pressure, the atmospheric pressure in an empty open bottle is, although not considered to be pressurized as it is just open and unsealed, but it is technically at atmospheric pressure of 14.7 PSI, it could also be said to be at a relative pressure of 0 PSI. now if you screw the lid onto the bottle and pump it up to 5 PSI, or what you would read as 5 PSI on a pressure gauge, then technically, from a scientific point of view, the real "absolute pressure" of the air in that bottle is really 19.7 PSI, the reason why a gauge would only show as 5 PSI is because any gauge only shows the pressure over and above the static atmospheric pressure, this is called relative pressure, so a gage makes the absolute pressure as 0 reference point, and then only shows the pressure over and above that, relative to a base which is called a 0 as a point reference
pressure will always equalize if it can, it can't in a sealed bottle of course, but once you crack open the bottle and nothing is sealing it off the 19.7 PSI absolute, it will automatically release the additional 5 PSI to equalize to 14.7 PSI, same as everything around it. many will just assume that the opened bottle is at 0 PSI and it is almost correct to even say that it is at 0 PSI, because it is equal to base atmospheric pressure, so 0 PSI above atmosphere and 0 PSI relative pressure
the point of this is, as you ascend to a higher altitude the absolute pressure will drop, and when the pressure around the kayfun winds up going lower than the 14.7 PSI it was at to begin with it will automatically release whatever amount of pressure it happens to be above the then current atmospheric pressure, point being that when the kayfun arrives at 6,500' it has already bleed off it's additional pressure by way of ejecting juice assuming it was vertical the whole time, but now, at 6,500' the internal tank pressure would be at the current atmospheric pressure which is ~11.5 PSI. at that point it will be at relative 0 psi in the tank, same as it would be at sea level, 0 psi relative... rebuilding it, or opening it, or anything else would make no difference because it will regulate the internal and external pressure in real time and already be equalized. I know, long boring story but maybe someone actually wants to know this stuff
how the kayfun works is, the tank is always at 0 relative, as is of course everything around it... when you draw you wind up creating negative pressure (vacuum), so lets say at sea level, the tank is at 14.7, everything else is at 14.7, it's equal, no leaking or ejecting fluid, but now you draw and may wind up making the absolute pressure inside the internal stack down to lets say 13 PSI absolute, or we can also say a -1.7 PSI relative vacuum, same thing, but as pressure needs to always equalize the tank is now at 14.7 while the inner chamber (where the 2 holes lead to) is at 13 so it will eject fluid as it tries to equalize, lets say the tank "leak" or "feed" is fairly restrictive, so the tank will not automatically just drop to the 13 but it will slowly drop towards that, so lets say by the time you finish your draw the tank winded up being sucked down to 14.2 PSI, then you stop drawing... now the chamber pressure automatically returns to 14.7, or 0 relative, and the tank is down to 14.2 or -.5 PSI so it again equalizes and in doing so takes back in air to make this happen, hence the rising air bubbles...
"pressure" can be a difficult thing for many to fully comprehend without fully understanding exactly what pressure actually is, but in laymans terms the kayfun tank is really never ever pressurized over and above atmospheric pressure, so it is always at 0 PSI relative, no matter what altitude you are at or no matter what the absolute atmospheric pressure happens to be. I see so many confuse this stuff because it's one thing to talk about absolute pressure and it's another to talk about relative pressure and many confuse the 2, it is correct to say that the kayfun tank may be pressurized to 14.7 PSI at sea level but that is not the same as pressurized in what most think of when they do think of pressure because most think of pressure only in the relative term, 14.7 PSI absolute is really 0 psi relative, meaning no pressure over and above atmospheric pressure, in the relative sense the kayfun tank is really never pressurized at all, ever. it's not "pressure" itself that causes the feed in the sense that most think of what pressure is, it's pressure differential, or lack of pressure in the atty chamber that actually causes the feed by way of vacuum as the internal pressure tries to equalize
I don't know if I clarified this for anyone or just confused them more so I won't even start to talk about venturi effects and how they relate to the kayfun's draw and feed, probably already got to deep on just the pressure stuff alone I guess, but hopefully this may help shed some light on the subject for anyone who is confused as to how it actually works. and just for the record the kayfun is not the first to use the whole pressure equalization technique to feed the atty, all of the slip on carto tanks with a hole or 2 in the cartomizer are really working on the same exact principle, kayfun just altered the way it does this with the whole bottom feeding passage to the chamber but it is not very different from other carto tank systems in the way it uses pressure differential
also, while I'm here boring everyone with physics I'll just also mention why you must never completely fill the kayfun, you must leave some air space, and the reason for this is that the liquid can neither expand or compress, but air can, and if you completely fill the tank all the way then even though you are creating a vacuum with your draw you won't get any feed because the fluid can't "stretch", it will become hydrolocked and would take more negative pressure to pull anything out of the tank than you'd ever be able to provide with a draw, the air bubble however can expand and compress, so the air bubble will "stretch" on the draw, allowing fluid to come out from the tank, feeding the atty, if theres no air to allow the total tank contents to expand then you'll get no feed... if you only leave a small air bubble you'll notice it's harder to get feed initially, until it feeds enough for the air bubble to get larger and allow more "stretch", or expansion of the tanks volume, and it'll then feed more readily...
HA, I expect 99% of people to skim it and say wth?? and then skip it, but there may be a few who might want to read it I guess
HA, I expect 99% of people to skim it and say ... and then skip it, but there may be a few who might want to read it I guess
I read all of it and it makes sense (if i understood it correctly
).
Latest build with the KFL:
Nice cearmic build gdeal......need....more....pics.......lets see that coil!
Looking forward to hearing your results/impressions...
Is that an extention on the air hole going into the wick? Does it take a while to generate heat to warm that baby up...?
-I've been die'n to try this
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Here is the front view:
Side view:
Test pulse:
The coil is .9ohm of 28g. It vapes very hot (almost too hot) on a fresh batt. There is a micro coil is inside the ceramic and it is instant-on. The air inlet is aligned with the hole in the ceramic so that most airflow goes through the center. I just reworked it and recoiled with 30g (1.1 ohm) used a silver NR lead to attached the top of the coil to the neg and shaved off about 25% of the ceramic height. I wasnt having any issues, but I thought reducing mass would bring down any heat sink effect and eliminating any non-coiled resistance wire is always good. The reduced reversion is working better, much cooler, but I forgot to snap a pic before I reassembled. This setup works well, but its a PITA to carve one of these. The Monkeybar version in the KFL is much easier to make and vapes as good, if not better.
I got my KFL yesterday, after work I had to play with it immediately lol. I wrapped a 1.3 ohm coil using a 1/16th bit and 28gauge wire. I installed the coil at a diagonal angle Then installed a cotton wick. I popped it on my Paps 2.5 and all I can say is this thing kicks ..., I have had 0 leaks and no dry hits at all. When I installed the coil I basically rested it on the air hole then pulled the bit up to leave a small gap. I took it to work with me today and rocked it all day long without issues. I cut my wick so it comes down over the ledge and touches the base flush. The only thing I wish it had was a pyrex option as I prefer glass over plastic although my usual juices are not citrus or anise based.
I would recommend this product to anyone who is looking for something that is rebuildable with a tank.
I would recommend this product to anyone who is looking for something that is rebuildable with a tank.
A fresh cotton strip installed. The cotton wick, when dry, lays 3/4 across the bottom ledge. I load it with juice like this, it swells , then I use my mini screwdriver to shape and nudge it against the wall. That wick will swell even more when I start vape'n.
Now I don't have to adjust the wick after I screw the chamber on top. Works flawlessly. Takes 5 min. to change a wick out once to get it down.
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A fresh cotton strip installed. The cotton wick, when dry, lays 3/4 across the bottom ledge. I load it with juice like this, it swells , then I use my mini screwdriver to shape and nudge it against the wall. That wick will swell even more when I start vape'n.
Now I don't have to adjust the wick after I screw the chamber on top. Works flawlessly. Takes 5 min. to change a wick out once to get it down
what is your build, ohms, gauge diameter ?
What is your build, ohms, gauge, diameter ? how many wraps
ok so I tore my 5/64 build apart did a new one with my wick like yours and a 1/16 bit 10 wrap, getting a 1.2 ohm reading and so far so good have to say with the smaller diameter it burns hotter and faster, gets hot instantly, thanks for posting the pic
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the kayfun technically relies on tank pressure to feed the wick, but it's more pressure differential than just pressure itself. I don't mean to keep beating a dead horse here trying to explain this but I'm trying to help, not trying to show that I'm a know it all, I hope I'm not coming off that way, but I'll explain a little more about this incase it's still unclear and anyone really want's to understand it better
at sea level the atmospheric "pressure" is right around 14.7 PSI... now everything around you is at this same atmospheric pressure, the atmospheric pressure in an empty open bottle is, although not considered to be pressurized as it is just open and unsealed, but it is technically at atmospheric pressure of 14.7 PSI, it could also be said to be at a relative pressure of 0 PSI. now if you screw the lid onto the bottle and pump it up to 5 PSI, or what you would read as 5 PSI on a pressure gauge, then technically, from a scientific point of view, the real "absolute pressure" of the air in that bottle is really 19.7 PSI, the reason why a gauge would only show as 5 PSI is because any gauge only shows the pressure over and above the static atmospheric pressure, this is called relative pressure, so a gage makes the absolute pressure as 0 reference point, and then only shows the pressure over and above that, relative to a base which is called a 0 as a point reference
pressure will always equalize if it can, it can't in a sealed bottle of course, but once you crack open the bottle and nothing is sealing it off the 19.7 PSI absolute, it will automatically release the additional 5 PSI to equalize to 14.7 PSI, same as everything around it. many will just assume that the opened bottle is at 0 PSI and it is almost correct to even say that it is at 0 PSI, because it is equal to base atmospheric pressure, so 0 PSI above atmosphere and 0 PSI relative pressure
the point of this is, as you ascend to a higher altitude the absolute pressure will drop, and when the pressure around the kayfun winds up going lower than the 14.7 PSI it was at to begin with it will automatically release whatever amount of pressure it happens to be above the then current atmospheric pressure, point being that when the kayfun arrives at 6,500' it has already bleed off it's additional pressure by way of ejecting juice assuming it was vertical the whole time, but now, at 6,500' the internal tank pressure would be at the current atmospheric pressure which is ~11.5 PSI. at that point it will be at relative 0 psi in the tank, same as it would be at sea level, 0 psi relative... rebuilding it, or opening it, or anything else would make no difference because it will regulate the internal and external pressure in real time and already be equalized. I know, long boring story but maybe someone actually wants to know this stuff
how the kayfun works is, the tank is always at 0 relative, as is of course everything around it... when you draw you wind up creating negative pressure (vacuum), so lets say at sea level, the tank is at 14.7, everything else is at 14.7, it's equal, no leaking or ejecting fluid, but now you draw and may wind up making the absolute pressure inside the internal stack down to lets say 13 PSI absolute, or we can also say a -1.7 PSI relative vacuum, same thing, but as pressure needs to always equalize the tank is now at 14.7 while the inner chamber (where the 2 holes lead to) is at 13 so it will eject fluid as it tries to equalize, lets say the tank "leak" or "feed" is fairly restrictive, so the tank will not automatically just drop to the 13 but it will slowly drop towards that, so lets say by the time you finish your draw the tank winded up being sucked down to 14.2 PSI, then you stop drawing... now the chamber pressure automatically returns to 14.7, or 0 relative, and the tank is down to 14.2 or -.5 PSI so it again equalizes and in doing so takes back in air to make this happen, hence the rising air bubbles...
"pressure" can be a difficult thing for many to fully comprehend without fully understanding exactly what pressure actually is, but in laymans terms the kayfun tank is really never ever pressurized over and above atmospheric pressure, so it is always at 0 PSI relative, no matter what altitude you are at or no matter what the absolute atmospheric pressure happens to be. I see so many confuse this stuff because it's one thing to talk about absolute pressure and it's another to talk about relative pressure and many confuse the 2, it is correct to say that the kayfun tank may be pressurized to 14.7 PSI at sea level but that is not the same as pressurized in what most think of when they do think of pressure because most think of pressure only in the relative term, 14.7 PSI absolute is really 0 psi relative, meaning no pressure over and above atmospheric pressure, in the relative sense the kayfun tank is really never pressurized at all, ever. it's not "pressure" itself that causes the feed in the sense that most think of what pressure is, it's pressure differential, or lack of pressure in the atty chamber that actually causes the feed by way of vacuum as the internal pressure tries to equalize
I don't know if I clarified this for anyone or just confused them more so I won't even start to talk about venturi effects and how they relate to the kayfun's draw and feed, probably already got to deep on just the pressure stuff alone I guess, but hopefully this may help shed some light on the subject for anyone who is confused as to how it actually works. and just for the record the kayfun is not the first to use the whole pressure equalization technique to feed the atty, all of the slip on carto tanks with a hole or 2 in the cartomizer are really working on the same exact principle, kayfun just altered the way it does this with the whole bottom feeding passage to the chamber but it is not very different from other carto tank systems in the way it uses pressure differential
I'd like to hear what you have to say about the venturi effect, and though most may not fully appreciate your in depth explanation I found it rather interesting. Thank you for posting.
I've been going back and forth between cotton balls and cotton yarn and I don't notice a difference. They both wick flawlessly and the flavor is the same (for me). The yarn is just too easy and consistent and I don't have to worry about having too much or not enough.
I fold both ends up, put the cylinder on, cut excess off the top and push the ends down into place. And I'm good to go.
I fold both ends up, put the cylinder on, cut excess off the top and push the ends down into place. And I'm good to go.
I love the cotton as well, but that is probably the most finicky part of the build although I'm getting much better at gauging the amount needed by eye. Threading the cotton (balls or rolled) through a coil made on a 5/16" bit.
Just out of curiosity - what cotton yarn are you using, are ya boiling it, and what it the perfect diameter coil to thread it through (e.g. what's the ID of your pictured coil)?
you guys are all kayfun krazy....lol...i can barely get a good vape out of mine for now, reading over this with a HUGE question mark forming in my thick head, especially early friday morning....lol
using 2mm eko, usually 4 wraps of 30awg, sometimes the thing leakes wayy too much for my liking, i top fill....takes forever for the pressure chamber to pressurize? meanwhile i prob. lose a ml of liquid through the air intake between the screw and the valve
(on the k-mini)
(on the k-mini)
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