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donnah

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Are you sure about that I keep reading difference views an opinions on how the wick should be laid in the channels.. Some say to just barely have the wick touch the bottom of the deck, others lay there wicks all across the deck but away from the juice wells, some people say to have the wicks cover and be on top of the juice wells because when the juice gets pull into the chamber if the wick isn't right above it to absorb the juice it just goes back into the tank.. Can anyone answer this question once and for all can the juice if pulled into the chamber actually go back into the tank portion? If it's working with air pressure system or what not the juice should stay in the chamber right? not spill back into the tank?

I get confused because it seems like with the vertical coil builds people are building now a days it looks like they pack the whole juice well / decks and everything.

For the first month that I had my kfl I had it in my head that the wick tails HAD to be away from the juice inlets or they would be blocked. I went to great lengths to make sure that my wicks were hugging the platform and away from the channels.

I had nothing but dry hits that whole month unless I manually sucked juice up into it and then when that juice got vaporized, it would be dry again. It was only when vapdivvr commented that his wicks were always right on top of the inlets that I realized what I was doing wrong. Once I started positioning the wick tails to be right on the inlets my dry hits went away. The wicks have to be right there where the juice comes up into the chamber to sop up the juice or it will just go back down the channels and the coil won't get fed.

from turbocad6 back in september...

guys, those channels puff up with juice when you draw, kind of like the squonking of a reo, if there is no wick right there to suck up this swelling up of juice by the little outlets then the juice will just be sucked back into the tank when you stop your draw and you will get NO feed, if wick is there, and juice is sucked up, then when you stop drawing it can't suck the same juice back in so it sucks air back in, if you're not getting a rising air bubble on just about every draw then you are not wicked properly, don't keep the wick away from the hole, keep it right there to suck up any swell up of juice from it. if you put way too much, THAN you could seal off these orifices well enough that the tank won't even see the suction, so don't over stuff it, but def wick right at the feed holes. after getting my full sized kayfun I now realize how much more room you have, the mini is easy t use too much wick and seal up the tank but the full sized kayfun and the light have huge wells, don't be afraid to get some wick right in there, it's the only way it'll feed,otherwise the same juice just goes in and out, in and out, and never feeds the coil
 
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ronpaek100

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For the first month that I had my kfl I had it in my head that the wick tails HAD to be away from the juice inlets or they would be blocked. I went to great lengths to make sure that my wicks were hugging the platform and away from the channels.

I had nothing but dry hits that whole month unless I manually sucked juice up into it and then when that juice got vaporized, it would be dry again. It was only when vapdivvr commented that his wicks were always right on top of the inlets that I realized what I was doing wrong. Once I started positioning the wick tails to be right on the inlets my dry hits went away. The wicks have to be right there where the juice comes up into the chamber to sop up the juice or it will just go back down the channels and the coil won't get fed.

from turbocad6 back in september...

guys, those channels puff up with juice when you draw, kind of like the squonking of a reo, if there is no wick right there to suck up this swelling up of juice by the little outlets then the juice will just be sucked back into the tank when you stop your draw and you will get NO feed, if wick is there, and juice is sucked up, then when you stop drawing it can't suck the same juice back in so it sucks air back in, if you're not getting a rising air bubble on just about every draw then you are not wicked properly, don't keep the wick away from the hole, keep it right there to suck up any swell up of juice from it. if you put way too much, THAN you could seal off these orifices well enough that the tank won't even see the suction, so don't over stuff it, but def wick right at the feed holes. after getting my full sized kayfun I now realize how much more room you have, the mini is easy t use too much wick and seal up the tank but the full sized kayfun and the light have huge wells, don't be afraid to get some wick right in there, it's the only way it'll feed,otherwise the same juice just goes in and out, in and out, and never feeds the coil

Thanks Donnah. I read that post before and I talked with vapdivrr too, I just wanted to clarify things. :)

Donna just wondering how many watts are you vaping at?
 

donnah

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Thanks Donnah. I read that post before and I talked with vapdivrr too, I just wanted to clarify things. :)

Donna just wondering how many watts are you vaping at?

Ummm.. right now the coil I am using is 1.2Ω and the voltage is 4.1v so that makes 14 watts :)
 

ronpaek100

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Hey guys I been wondering sometimes my wick / coil when fired makes really loud crackling pop noise and sometimes it's a subtle noise, is that inversely related to a wick that's less saturated vs a more saturated wick? Because i'm almost done with my e juice in my KFL tank and I tilt my device when I vape so many not as much juice is getting into the juice channels so the wick is getting dryer and I notice the crackling noise is more subtle and the vape feels more dry and it's irritating my throat more.
 

turbocad6

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yeah, think of that deck as a beach front, 2 actually... and each time you draw it becomes high tide, but it only comes up so much, like a surge or a slight squonking. the harder you suck the higher it comes but it's still only a slight surge or swell and it always recedes back t the tank at the end of your draw... if juice was wicked up then it will pull air back in when it recedes, if no juice was wicked up then the juice itself recedes meaning the fluid itself is going in and then coming back out of the chamber.

if your juice is getting darker and darker this is a good indication that you are not wicked well enough. trust me it is very difficult to completely block these channels, have your wick right on the channels and it will feed the wick itself on each and every pull, if they're further away it then becomes hit or miss and dependent on tilt angle and draw strength and other variables that would simply be eliminated with proper wick placement. example, if the wicks are further back towards the walls and you draw while slightly tilted then one beach front would feed it's side wick while the other wouldn't, depending on angles and stuff, wicking right at the channels is best for reliable constant feed. you should see how much wick I have stuffed into my 2 wells and it still feeds great. again it would take a whole lot of stuffing to get to the point of blocking the wells, wick right up to and even on them is fine
 

donnah

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yeah, think of that deck as a beach front, 2 actually... and each time you draw it becomes high tide, but it only comes up so much, like a surge or a slight squonking. the harder you suck the higher it comes but it's still only a slight surge or swell and it always recedes back t the tank at the end of your draw... if juice was wicked up then it will pull air back in when it recedes, if no juice was wicked up then the juice itself recedes meaning the fluid itself is going in and then coming back out of the chamber.

if your juice is getting darker and darker this is a good indication that you are not wicked well enough. trust me it is very difficult to completely block these channels, have your wick right on the channels and it will feed the wick itself on each and every pull, if they're further away it then becomes hit or miss and dependent on tilt angle and draw strength and other variables that would simply be eliminated with proper wick placement. example, if the wicks are further back towards the walls and you draw while slightly tilted then one beach front would feed it's side wick while the other wouldn't, depending on angles and stuff, wicking right at the channels is best for reliable constant feed. you should see how much wick I have stuffed into my 2 wells and it still feeds great. again it would take a whole lot of stuffing to get to the point of blocking the wells, wick right up to and even on them is fine

Very descriptive LOL.. and very well said! I have that post from September bookmarked and have quoted it often. Once I discovered the proper wick position it was like night and day with my kfl! Many have said that less is more but in this case, less is not more ...more is more. :blink:
 

Iowa Gal

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Yes, I did jack up the power, Dust (that was something I learned from X). It was too warm. I'm a wuss when it comes to warm vapes. I like it cool and know I am in the extreme minority here. :) I just bought a Neme clone (to go subohm) and have a feeling I will be disappointed due to the fact I like a cooler vape. But I have to try. If it is that bad, then I can always put it on the classies.

Bronze I don't use sub ohm coils and I love the KFL on my mech mods...they look smexy...you'll like it:D
 

Iowa Gal

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Hey guys I been wondering sometimes my wick / coil when fired makes really loud crackling pop noise and sometimes it's a subtle noise, is that inversely related to a wick that's less saturated vs a more saturated wick? Because i'm almost done with my e juice in my KFL tank and I tilt my device when I vape so many not as much juice is getting into the juice channels so the wick is getting dryer and I notice the crackling noise is more subtle and the vape feels more dry and it's irritating my throat more.

I get a snap, crackle, pop with a fresh wick...once I've vaped on it a little it seems to go away. Scared the crap out of me the first time:laugh:
 

Bronze

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Bronze I don't use sub ohm coils and I love the KFL on my mech mods...they look smexy...you'll like it:D

Well, that's the purpose of getting the mech so I can explore the subohm world. It's one of those things that I will always wonder about so I may as well just do it. And I have to have mech to do it with.
 

RubyRoo

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It sounds like the wick/coil needs to be raised off the deck just a bit.When the wick gets fully saturated,air goes thru the wick instead of around causing the gurgling sound.
I dislike gurgling tanks,the sound drives me nuts.A co-worker uses a carto tank and it gurgles like a drowning man and he is always complaining about flooded cartos.

Holy cow! This is the advice I was looking for! Thank you so much. I'll report back with my findings soon, sir!
 

TruSound

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For any LA folks lookin for a KFL+, their in stock at Studio City Vapors, $120.00. I bought one today, my first...a fantastic piece of hardware, and super easy to coil/wick, thanks to Andrew, his you tube tutorials are the best I've seen, and I've seen um all...he has 3 methods, all look to be winners, I used his micro-coil on cotton type, wicks perfectly. I didn't use his machine screw technique to make the coil...for me it was way easier to use a small screwdriver of similar diameter, everything else just the way he did it, way quick and easy. I'm using 100% VG Bobas Bounty and it wicks perfectly.
M3 MicroCoil with Cotton Wick on a Kayfun - In-depth Tutorial - YouTube
818-579-3574
Studio City Vapors
5208 Laurel Canyon Blvd
Valley Village, CA 91607
What the heck...here she isURL=http://s69.photobucket.com/user/MTruman/media/8A8754C2-F1CB-4688-97D1-79EAB7D5BBB3.jpg.html]
8A8754C2-F1CB-4688-97D1-79EAB7D5BBB3.jpg
[/URL]
 
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dwcraig1

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I'm posting this as example of my "regular" silica build in another thread but since it came out of my KFL I thought I'd post it here as well.
I use micros and cotton on most things but not all, not trying to make any comparison here though.
This is the build that I use in all my tank devices, I generally get 5 - 6 weeks with dry burning about every two tanks with a liquid that run pretty clean.
1453498_700126933344867_1963260306_n.jpg

Note the extra piece of silica inside the coil with the main wick. Nothing new here I know but certainly easy, simple and quite effective.
That's 3 mm silica with 28 gauge nichrome @ 0.7 Ω
 
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dwcraig1

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So have any of you had luck making your own insulators yet? Eight bucks for them is a little much. I'm surprised they didn't give you an extra set with the atty.

Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
Sounds easy enough, just have to pick the right material.
 
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