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Mark Howard

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I wanna get twisted, little help guys...I prefer a 1.2-1.4 ohm rating on my KF coils, if I were to build a twisted Kanthal micro coil how many wraps would it take to reach my ohm rating ?

Ok, I played with the twist a bit. On 32g kanthal twisted up, 11 wrap microcoil on a 1/16" bit came in at 1.8, so I'd go for 10 and would bet that's about right. My kfl still has nearly a full tank so I build it on my trident. Really hitting great and tasting good!


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Akdare

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About to wrap a new coil for my kfl. Been using 1.2 ohms for the longest time, however, I'm thinking of dropping down to .8 ohms. What do you guys think?

Using DNA20

EDIT: won't I need to fire at 20 watts just to get like 3.8 volts??

-Sent from my DNA20 through my Kayfun Lite

(3.8 x 3.8)/0.8 = 18 watts


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armyofskittles

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(3.8 x 3.8)/0.8 = 18 watts


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Yea yea yea lol

I have a really dumb question. Idk why I'm asking Im sure I already know the answer...

2 ohms and 1 ohm. Are they both going to vape the same at 4 volts? But the 1 ohm coil just heats up faster?



-Sent from my DNA20 through my Kayfun Lite
 

Akdare

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Yea yea yea lol

I have a really dumb question. Idk why I'm asking Im sure I already know the answer...

2 ohms and 1 ohm. Are they both going to vape the same at 4 volts? But the 1 ohm coil just heats up faster?



-Sent from my DNA20 through my Kayfun Lite

Nope...ohms law results in 8 watts and 16 watts respectively. Yes the 1 ohm coil will heat up faster, but, at the same voltage, puts out twice as much power (watts). That translates into more heat, and throat hit.

I'm sure someone will chime in here that you can adjust this or that and compensate for it, but I'm an engineer, and I prefer to change only one variable at a time. That way I know what effect each adjustment has for my vaping experience.


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dwcraig1

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Currently my two favorites though ever evolving.
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vapdivrr

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About to wrap a new coil for my kfl. Been using 1.2 ohms for the longest time, however, I'm thinking of dropping down to .8 ohms. What do you guys think?

Using DNA20

EDIT: won't I need to fire at 20 watts just to get like 3.8 volts??

-Sent from my DNA20 through my Kayfun Lite

what gauge wire are you using with the 1.2 coil? cause if your using like 30g and decide to reduce your resistance you may want to decrease you wire gauge, especially if your deciding to also increase your voltage.
 

armyofskittles

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Nope...ohms law results in 8 watts and 16 watts respectively. Yes the 1 ohm coil will heat up faster, but, at the same voltage, puts out twice as much power (watts). That translates into more heat, and throat hit.

I'm sure someone will chime in here that you can adjust this or that and compensate for it, but I'm an engineer, and I prefer to change only one variable at a time. That way I know what effect each adjustment has for my vaping experience.


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That's what I thought but were having a little discussion about this here.

-Sent from my DNA20 through my Kayfun Lite
 

vapdivrr

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Nope...ohms law results in 8 watts and 16 watts respectively. Yes the 1 ohm coil will heat up faster, but, at the same voltage, puts out twice as much power (watts). That translates into more heat, and throat hit.

I'm sure someone will chime in here that you can adjust this or that and compensate for it, but I'm an engineer, and I prefer to change only one variable at a time. That way I know what effect each adjustment has for my vaping experience.


Sent from my iPad

the 1 ohm coil can also be to hot and cause the juice to burn if the wire gauge is to thin. for the 2 ohm coil one would usually use a 32g wire, don't use this wire for the 1-ohmed coil.
 

PNW Rider

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Update on my KFL+. I took a dremel to it again and redid my afc screw with more care not to damage the remaining threads. . Now it works just like I want it to. I can set it identically to the non plus kfl and go airier or tighter. I also took the dremel to the vertical juice channels with a tiny diamond dust covered grinding bit. Juice flow at 15 watts is now perfect! I only enlarged the channels about 25% and I didn't change my wicking method at all. Getting nice wet dripper like vapes consistently at the higher power levels.

As for whistling and air flow I noticed you can tune the whistling out by aligning the center post screw so that the air hole that goes across the screw lines up with the main air hole on the side of the base. Air flow increased a bit this way as well.

I can finally say I really like the + over the non +.

This is the holy grail of kayfun lite performance. As soon as I get my dremel tip I will be right there with ya. I don't even vape high power but 8 watt micro coils are thirsty when they work right and your airflow is increased. Need more juice stat!
 

schizm722

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Oct 8, 2013
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I've been using a semi-"Truman coil" method...
I mount the coil diagonally instead of perpendicular, and wick the same way as the Truman, but instead of the excess wick sitting on the sides of the perpendicular coil, I lay the 2 excess ends over the top of the coil, covering it completely.
This seems to give me a little better flavor/vapor production with a more airy draw.
Has anyone here set up their KF this way? What do you think?

Have a nice holidays guys!

schizm
 

Snapdragon

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I just wanted to mention that if you are going to remove the air control screw completely from the KFL+ you might want to consider how much air can get to the hole it came out of - meaning - if your tank is fully flush mounted to your device you could be defeating the purpose. You can tell how much by simply drawing directly on the side air hole as you tighten down your tank.

Even removing the beauty ring on my ProVari made a small but noticeable difference but because of where the bottom hole is situated, there is still some blockage from the top of the threaded area on the ProVari where it makes the connection. Hope that makes sense.

That beauty ring may just get an air hole of it's own though, but I'll have to wait for His Highness to do it. He doesn't like it when I "mess" with his drill press. ;)
 

finagle69

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I just wanted to mention that if you are going to remove the air control screw completely from the KFL+ you might want to consider how much air can get to the hole it came out of - meaning - if your tank is fully flush mounted to your device you could be defeating the purpose. You can tell how much by simply drawing directly on the side air hole as you tighten down your tank.

Even removing the beauty ring on my ProVari made a small but noticeable difference but because of where the bottom hole is situated, there is still some blockage from the top of the threaded area on the ProVari where it makes the connection. Hope that makes sense.

That beauty ring may just get an air hole of it's own though, but I'll have to wait for His Highness to do it. He doesn't like it when I "mess" with his drill press. ;)

That's true, but it feels like even with the screw backed out all the way with the device flush mounted it still restrict air somewhat. Like the screw itself is a tad longer than it should be. So taking it out and flush mounting still results in more airflow.

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TruSound

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@schizm...can you post a photo for us, would love to have a look.

@Snapdragon...I'm flush mounted on a Nemesis, so removing the screw would open up the path from the side port, I suppose a bit of air could be drawn up from the screw hole as well as it's not an air tight seal at the mounting point on the Nemesis. Either way...seems to be working fine and the draw is about perfect for me...thanks for the input.
 

edyle

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It's true. I've been loading up 2 drippers for the drive and making due with what's in there til I arrive. I just am not into cartos, not even worth it to me to make the climb. I don't really know much about REOs though. Never looked at how they work but assume if they were a viable option it would have been mentioned in at least one of the threads I've read on altitude change. From what I understand they are like a dripper with the bottle inside so you just feed it more liquid when needed? If that's what it is it seems like it would work, but I assume there is simple more to it than that.

The liquid is in a plastic bottle and you press the bottle to squeeze juice UP to the atomiser.

But with the KFL or other bottom airhole tanks, all you have to do is store it inverted.
A Genny wouldn't leak, after all, because the air hole is on top.
 

edyle

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I've had my Russian 91% for about a month and absolutely love it. Wanted another, but it is nowhere to be found (out of stock everywhere). So... I pulled the trigger this morning and ordered the original, a Kayfun Lite + from Vaperev. Went ahead and got the o-ring kit, a replacement plastic tank section and a long plastic tank section. I should be ready for anything. Now the waiting begins.

So is the so called "Russian 91%" supposed to be a clone of the Kayfun Lite + from Vaperev?
 

MwSlim

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So is the so called "Russian 91%" supposed to be a clone of the Kayfun Lite + from Vaperev?

I have heard that the maker of the Russian and Svoemesto worked together on the design and then went their seperate ways


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crss

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    The R91 is not a clone of the Klite+. I have a R91, sits in the closet. My original KLite's, not +, out perform it. I also dont care for the gray finish. Google both devices and check design. I dont own a KLite+. Some else here could possibly chime in on the + model. The R91 has air intake on the side, same as my KLite.
     
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