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vapspaz

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Sorry to the confusion folks. The IS of my coil is .062 dia. not the ohms. My ohms is 1.8 using 30 ga kanthal. It fit much more loosely than my normal cotton wicks even with all 4 strands. I did separate the strands slightly to help hold more juice but made sure they were all touching one another. When I yanked it out to put a normal cotton wick back in, I noticed it had swollen so it had just a little resistance pulling it out which tells me that it wasn't to tight to begin with. Maybe I'll try using only 3 strands but I have a feeling that's going to be too loose.

Thanks for the help folks.
 

armyofskittles

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Sorry to the confusion folks. The IS of my coil is .062 dia. not the ohms. My ohms is 1.8 using 30 ga kanthal. It fit much more loosely than my normal cotton wicks even with all 4 strands. I did separate the strands slightly to help hold more juice but made sure they were all touching one another. When I yanked it out to put a normal cotton wick back in, I noticed it had swollen so it had just a little resistance pulling it out which tells me that it wasn't to tight to begin with. Maybe I'll try using only 3 strands but I have a feeling that's going to be too loose.

Thanks for the help folks.

Try 28g about 1.2 to 1.5 ohms. 10 or 11 wraps is perfect on 1/16th bit

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Akdare

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Try 28g about 1.2 to 1.5 ohms. 10 or 11 wraps is perfect on 1/16th bit

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And if that doesn't work...try 30g 6 wraps on 3/32” bit...1.8 ohm. It's what I use... Technically a milli coil, too big for a micro. For me, the 28g heated up too slowly. I do use cotton ball, but I use the same coil in my Spheroid with cotton yarn...


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Woody7781

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And if that doesn't work...try 30g 6 wraps on 3/32” bit...1.8 ohm. It's what I use... Technically a milli coil, too big for a micro. For me, the 28g heated up too slowly. I do use cotton ball, but I use the same coil in my Spheroid with cotton yarn...


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I normally used 28. Just got some 30ga and did 8? Wraps I think. It's like 2ohms and it heats up so much faster than a 1.1 ohm with 28ga. I think I enjoy 30 over 28 now.
 

ronpaek100

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I used to place my coils diagonal across the air hole and then run my cotton across the deck. Recently I've rebuilt all my coils and placed then straight across so that my cotton wick runs straight down to the deck instead of across it. I find this works much more consistant for me.

I might have to start trying this as well
 

TruSound

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Regarding possible airflow issues Cheetah mentioned... One additional note, if you leave a bigger gap between the bottom of your coil and the top of the air tube it'll work great with no effect on draw...and like he said, this build will get better with use... Much better.

I rewicked for a new flavor yesterday and didn't leave a big enough coil to vent hole gap, draw was way to tight and needed adjusting, I was able to gently pry the coil up about another 1mm or so while the wick was still in place, reassembled and all good.
 

Zbeast08

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Hi to all, I'm not sure if I have posted in this thread but I've been lurking here awhile and I am now on my second tank. Everything is fine but.....when I switched juices, I swapped out the cotton, started vaping, had a little gurgle so I turned upside down and blew a little juice out of the air hole and is prett good. However, I notice when I let my KFL+ sit for 20 min or so and take a hit, the initial pull is a little "stally" almost like a ever so slightly tug and immediately and subsequent vapes are just fine. I didn't have this "delay" if you call it that, didn't know if something I need to adjust or change??
Also, I am using a mini coil...8 wraps of 30 ga kanthal on a 5/64 mandrel, got 1.8 ohms (thanks JWJ) with organic cotton ball for wick. I've looked at charts and Q has been most helpful with questions I PM'd him and understand the length of the coil has to do with ohms, etc, but do you actually measure out your kanthal prior to building your coil or just start wrapping and check resistance??
Would I decrease wraps to get a lower ohm, I would like to build a coil around 1.5 ohm and try some yarn for wicking to compare to cotton ball, any suggestions??
Thanks
 

Akdare

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Hi to all, I'm not sure if I have posted in this thread but I've been lurking here awhile and I am now on my second tank. Everything is fine but.....when I switched juices, I swapped out the cotton, started vaping, had a little gurgle so I turned upside down and blew a little juice out of the air hole and is prett good. However, I notice when I let my KFL+ sit for 20 min or so and take a hit, the initial pull is a little "stally" almost like a ever so slightly tug and immediately and subsequent vapes are just fine. I didn't have this "delay" if you call it that, didn't know if something I need to adjust or change??
Also, I am using a mini coil...8 wraps of 30 ga kanthal on a 5/64 mandrel, got 1.8 ohms (thanks JWJ) with organic cotton ball for wick. I've looked at charts and Q has been most helpful with questions I PM'd him and understand the length of the coil has to do with ohms, etc, but do you actually measure out your kanthal prior to building your coil or just start wrapping and check resistance??
Would I decrease wraps to get a lower ohm, I would like to build a coil around 1.5 ohm and try some yarn for wicking to compare to cotton ball, any suggestions??
Thanks

Well hello, ZBeast!

I can only speak for myself, but once I wrap a coil on one diameter, that's what it'll be again & again, give or take 0.1 ohm. If I want to go higher ohms, add one wrap, less ohms take off one wrap.

Personally, I like 30g wire. I think it heats up faster than 28g. I'm not a sub ohm vaper...

Here's another way to think of it. There are 3 variables:

Coil diameter
Gauge of wire
Number of wraps

Only change one variable at a time...that way you'll have a better idea of your perfect vape.


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jwj63

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My best guess is that you have just a little too much cotton in there.

Hi to all, I'm not sure if I have posted in this thread but I've been lurking here awhile and I am now on my second tank. Everything is fine but.....when I switched juices, I swapped out the cotton, started vaping, had a little gurgle so I turned upside down and blew a little juice out of the air hole and is prett good. However, I notice when I let my KFL+ sit for 20 min or so and take a hit, the initial pull is a little "stally" almost like a ever so slightly tug and immediately and subsequent vapes are just fine. I didn't have this "delay" if you call it that, didn't know if something I need to adjust or change??
Also, I am using a mini coil...8 wraps of 30 ga kanthal on a 5/64 mandrel, got 1.8 ohms (thanks JWJ) with organic cotton ball for wick. I've looked at charts and Q has been most helpful with questions I PM'd him and understand the length of the coil has to do with ohms, etc, but do you actually measure out your kanthal prior to building your coil or just start wrapping and check resistance??
Would I decrease wraps to get a lower ohm, I would like to build a coil around 1.5 ohm and try some yarn for wicking to compare to cotton ball, any suggestions??
Thanks
 

Bronze

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OK Funners, I know we've been through this before but I don't remember what we came up with. Got a gal who has a Kayfun Lite (unplus) who just bought a Provari Mini. She's gonna need a beauty ring for it. Who offers a beauty ring that...

A) does not leave a gap, and
B) does not spin or rattle around?

Thanks for your input.
 

Paul.K

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Taken from this thread. Sorry the links did not copy over but they are in that thread.

Provari Beauty Rings : Our Choices√


Well, I'm a new Provari owner (yep, joining the cult) and thus had to do my research. Purchased all from GR-Modders and Loki Labs yesterday... and thought of sharing my findings here.

1. VapeRev's Kayfun Cone is the cheapest @ $8. Get's in-stock usually fortnightly. However, it's also 'coned' thus might not be for everyone. Also available thru Cloud9 and Svoe Mesto directly ~ but could take a while to land at your doors.

2. BombVapor's Black Delrin Ring is the next cheap Pro-Ring @ $10. However, typically N/A always. You have a 'notify me' option there ~ but I'm waiting for their response since 2-3 weeks now. Their SS ring is for $20 though. And again - N/A.

3. Tatroe's SS and Brass Pro-Rings are $14.99 each. However, they come only in one finish (brushed). They're usually available, except the brass one.

4. The next lowest is the GR-Modders' Pro-Rings @ $16.77 a piece. They have it in three variants, as well as in brushed and polished finish. Brass ones >HERE<

5. Our ECF supplier Loki Lab's Pro-Rings come in three versions ~ SS as well as Black and White Delrin. Though priced a bit steep @ $20 each they are typically in-stock always. And the SS rings again come in three variants ~ Machined, Brushed and Polished. There's one thus for everyone here√

6. TrevVapor's Cingulum (Compleo/Prorogatio) series is in the Hi-End line. Pretty nice as Pro-Blings if you have the dough and desire that is. €38, €45 & €83 EUR if you know what I mean.

7. For a wholesome unit Atmistique's Hippo V2s are awesome. At €27 EUR each they are the best bang for our buck! Comes with AFC... available in SS and/or Brass. And fit's everything flush. Brass version >HERE<

8. Last but not the least, if you chose to use one of the finest tanks for your Divers / Killers / Sophias, The GP-SnP Tank - it comes in a 23mm version for our Provaris and any 23mm Mod per se... and has it's own [optional] SnP Pro-Ring for €18.30 which gets air-flow as well as looks nice.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Off course there are more - and it'd be nice if others could post their findings on this thread as well
 

Snapdragon

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I have 2 Lokis and 1 Hippo V2. Neither leave a gap. The Loki can be turned manually quite easily but does not 'spin or rattle'. Same with the Hippo but it adds considerable length to a ProVari due to the airflow control adapter.

I have a brushed Pro-Ring from GR-Modders on it's way and can comment on it when it gets here if interested.
 

Dusty_D

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I can confirm that the Sotong ring does not leave a gap or spin no matter what I put on it. The gap would be caused by the connector at the bottom of your tank or rba. If it can be adjusted in any way, try and do that..

The Sotong is also tapered on the inside so it sits flush against the Provari's bezel.

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Bronze

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Thanks Paul and Dragon. I really liked Q's post (saw that earlier Paul) but I know many people have complained about their rings either leaving a gap or spinning/rattling. Q id not directly address this in that post but might have later in the thread and I did not see it. I don't have these problems as I got mine from Dusty. But I know some people have said they have no gaps or spin/rattles and just wondering who offers them. Lemme know on the GR Modders Dragon (though it might be moot by the time you get it).
Thanks again.
 

Bronze

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I can confirm that the Sotong ring does not leave a gap or spin no matter what I put on it. The gap would be caused by the connector at the bottom of your tank or rba. If it can be adjusted in any way, try and do that..

Sent from my IdeaTab S6000-F using Tapatalk

Did you leave that link for Bridget Dust? I can attest for what you say because I got mine from you and everything you say is true. I do have a small issue with that ring though. Sometimes it denies connection to the post. All I do is unscrew and re-screw and it is resolved. Really no big deal. I've sanded it and doesn't seem to matter. That SS is hard stuff.
 
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