Kayfun LITE

[LReyes66]

I have a black color nano tank I got from ultramist/ultravaping i'd trade for a clear nano tank. I got it originally for my black provari and black anodized tube nemmy.... but I sold my provari this morning (sad with sellers remorse) and cancelled the anodized tubes as I plan on using that money towards GP Paps mods.

^ that exactly.

Although I rewick every tank, just because I have pretty much a lifetime supply of organic cotton


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I still rewick every 4 tanks when using a nano tank or 2 tanks when using the regular mtank. Mine doesnt gunk as much with the top strand method but still do it for a piece of mind. Though with twisted coil its a must you dry burn then run it under some water in your sink/bathroom faucet to get anything between the twists out.

 

[crxess]

Next time you pull a Wick that is all brown, run it under water for a few seconds.
Coffee liquids turn mine very dark brown. It is just the natural color in the mix, not anything getting burnt. Rinses right out.

Anyway - Dyes(colorings), sugars, etc. can load up an otherwise good wick reducing flow and dropping flavor/vapor.

 

[bsoplinger]

Next time you pull a Wick that is all brown, run it under water for a few seconds.
Coffee liquids turn mine very dark brown. It is just the natural color in the mix, not anything getting burnt. Rinses right out.

Anyway - Dyes(colorings), sugars, etc. can load up an otherwise good wick reducing flow and dropping flavor/vapor.

That's why when I asked about how often I'm changing wicks I mentioned that the e-liquid is almost clear. So I know that the e-liquid isn't the cause of the color change. Also why I asked if changing to silica might help.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[wedoitall]

A lot depends on the juice my adv is almost as clear as water and on my dripper I have to rewick at least 3x a day . It's Gunk-Eeee.


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[Portertown]

I think I found a solution to the problem with the design of the Kayfun style atomizer that does not let you rewick or recoil without draining the juice out of it. The solution uses the same principles as the system uses to meter juice. Vacuum and Pressure.

You have to seal off the top of the tank and seal the air intake. What I did to test the solution was to remove the drip tip and place two thicknesses of Saran Wrap over the top of the tank and then install the drip tip with the tank turned upside down. I then placed a piece of duct tape over the air intake hole. Be sure to place the tape last so you do not create pressure in the tank when you put the drip tip back in the top cap with the Saran Wrap. Then I got over the sink in case the experiment did not work!!!!!!! I removed the base(with the chimney attached to it)from the tank. I kept the tank upside down and checked to make sure the chimney did not loosen when I was removing it along with the base. I then reinstalled the base and chimney assembly into the upside down tank and tightened it. Still keeping the tank upside down I removed the drip tip and removed the Saran Wrap and removed the Duct Tape. I reinstalled the drip tip and placed a napkin under it and blew with my mouth about three or four times into the air intake hole. About three drops of juice came out and got on the napkin.
I then turned the tank back upright when I got no more juice coming out and waited to see what was going to happen. Guess what happened? NOTHING, not one bit of juice came out of the air intake hole. I screwed the tank on my mod and took a vape. No gurgling at all. It was just like the tank had not been taken apart.
I really think the reason I got 3 drops of juice or so out when I blew into the air intake hole was the drip tip does not go to the bottom of the opening in the top cap for it, so the Saran Wrap was not down to the top of the chimney and left a little room for this juice. I am going to try to find a rubber plug to insert into the drip tip hole in the top cap that will go all the way to the top of the chimney. I don't think any juice will escape then.
I think the reason this works is the chimney can not let any juice into it's self when it is placed back down in the juice because the tape is sealing the air hole. It is the same as sticking a straw into a glass of water with your finger over the end of it. No water can enter.

NOTE: You may not can get the drip tip to go into the top cap with the Saran Wrap if your drip tip fits real tight. I have four of these tanks and I picked the one with the loser fitting drip tip. I think a rubber plug is for sure the best way to do this and it will work even if you have a tight fitting drip tip. I just used the Saran Wrap because that is all I had during this time of the night.

Give this a try and see if it works for you.

 

[horton]

Maybe I'm not picturing in my head exactly what you did Portertown but couldn't you accomplish the same thing by using just the SaranWrap? What I'm not understanding is why you need to cover the air hole on the base if you are holding the tank upside down.
Also, how did you hold the tank when you worked on the wick?

I may be waaaaay out to sea on this and completely missing the point -- I know I'm no physicist.....lol

 

[folkphys]

Did you thread your wick with a single strand like how it shows to in the svoemesto manual on how to set it up? or did you do a double / triple wrap around a coil like how most people do silica / ekowool wraps in the KFL

Single strand. I figured going double would make for too fat of a coil, and because the XC-116 is a bit stiff I would get less coil-to-wick contact.


Oh. You meant double or triple AROUND the coil. Yeah. I do a horizontal tightwrap contact coil set on a bias around a single strand of the ceramic.

 

[folkphys]

That's why when I asked about how often I'm changing wicks I mentioned that the e-liquid is almost clear. So I know that the e-liquid isn't the cause of the color change. Also why I asked if changing to silica might help.

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Ahh. But it is. That Hawk Sauce is quite the cloyingly sweet concoction if I remember correctly -- lots of sugars and berries. It will darken and gunk up a wick mighty swiftly to be sure.

 

[bsoplinger]

Ahh. But it is. That Hawk Sauce is quite the cloyingly sweet concoction if I remember correctly -- lots of sugars and berries. It will darken and gunk up a wick mighty swiftly to be sure.

I guess that makes sense if I think about it. But why does everyone always mention dark liquid when talking about gunk causing e-liquid. Are dark ones overwhelmingly sweet?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[Portertown]

Maybe I'm not picturing in my head exactly what you did Portertown but couldn't you accomplish the same thing by using just the SaranWrap? What I'm not understanding is why you need to cover the air hole on the base if you are holding the tank upside down.
Also, how did you hold the tank when you worked on the wick?

I may be waaaaay out to sea on this and completely missing the point -- I know I'm no physicist.....lol

Trust me, I am no physicist either. I just try a lot of things to see if they will work, sometimes they do and sometimes they don't. But most of the time I learn something either way. I think this is a good way to learn as long as you keep safety in mind. It seems to me that experience is the best teacher and sticks with me.

By covering the air hole you create an air "bladder" in the chimney and base that keeps juice from entering the tip of the chimney when it backs away from the oring that seals it to the top cap. This air "bladder" does the same thing on reassembly and will not let juice go into the tip of the chimney before it seals with the oring in the top cap. Just like putting your finger over the top end of a straw and sticking the bottom end of the straw into a glass of water. No water will go into the straw. The tape works better than trying to hold your finger over the air intake hole while the base is being unscrewed and also on reassembly.
I didn't recoil or rewick my Kayfun while I had it apart for this test last night, so I didn't have to put the upside down tank anywhere. The tank could be set upside down in a small round container of some sort like a 50ml juice bottle that the top section had been removed from or maybe something a little heavier like a small round glass container of some sort that would keep the tank upright.

I tried this solution twice last night and it worked for me. It will make recoiling and rewicking much easier.

 

[crss]

Why not just purchase 5 ml Syringes with Blunt Tip Fill Needles, 10 pack?? I used to worry about draining my kayfun tanks... Now, its done in a matter of seconds. Sitting in my office & takes 1 paper towel, just to wipe my finger prints off the mod. I do still use a rubber band, over the air intake, just to top fill.
today's KLite + clear nano tank, riding on my v3 Paps

 

[ronpaek100]

Single strand. I figured going double would make for too fat of a coil, and because the XC-116 is a bit stiff I would get less coil-to-wick contact.


Oh. You meant double or triple AROUND the coil. Yeah. I do a horizontal tightwrap contact coil set on a bias around a single strand of the ceramic.

This stuff is pretty stiff i'm setting up the wick / coil set up just like how svoemesto has there set up on the KFL e-manual I just hope the wick soaks up all the juice the wicking material seems very thin along the deck compared to cotton lol

 

[folkphys]

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This stuff is pretty stiff i'm setting up the wick / coil set up just like how svoemesto has there set up on the KFL e-manual I just hope the wick soaks up all the juice the wicking material seems very thin along the deck compared to cotton lol

I can't tell from yer pic if that is the 3mm or the 2mm. I use the 3mm in my KFL's for single coil and the 2mm only when I'm feeling somewhat dangerous-like and want to wrap a couple of 0.5mm ribbon nano's

If it is the 3mm, then as long as your coil is not too long the ceramic will stuff down in there. It helps to align your coil diagonally across the center air hole so that the wick ends can make a nice easy "J" bend down to --and then lay across --the Juice Reception Deck.

 

[horton]

I think what crss is saying / doing is a whole lot easier than trying to keep the juice in the device. Not running down the idea Portertown espouses, but it seems to be fewer steps and much less chance of spilling going the other way. When I have had to drain in "mid tank" I've used the top cap as a funnel to get most of the juice out and back in the bottle. Then there was very little to deal with and I could either do a quick rinse or work with what was on the parts. No big deal either way, but neater with the rinse.

 

[ronpaek100]

I can't tell from yer pic if that is the 3mm or the 2mm. I use the 3mm in my KFL's for single coil and the 2mm only when I'm feeling somewhat dangerous-like and want to wrap a couple of 0.5mm ribbon nano's

If it is the 3mm, then as long as your coil is not too long the ceramic will stuff down in there. It helps to align your coil diagonally across the center air hole so that the wick ends can make a nice easy "J" bend down to --and then lay across --the Juice Reception Deck.

I'm using the 2mm with a 1/16th micro coil i aligned the coil diagonally and it makes the S shape along both decks

 

[ronpaek100]

So I posted this question on Svoemesto's FB page:

Ronald Paek is it okay to place the wicks across / over the juice inlets? I've heard both stories some people say never to cover the juice inlets and some people recommend laying the wick over the juice inlet so it soaks up the juice right when it comes up, what do you guys recommend?
Like · Reply · 3 hours ago

Ronald Paek in my opinion i think it's okay to lay a wick over the juice inlet as long as you don't force or actually stick the wicking material in the hole / juice inlet you should be okay since the juice pushes upward anyways
Like · 3 hours ago

SvoёMesto Hello Ronald,
we recommend not blocking the juice channels with you wick and let the liquid flow freely onto the deck and then get caught by the wicking material. However, whatever works for you is fine with us.
Like · 2 hours ago

 

[horton]

So basically whatever makes your boat float or juice rise will be good with Svoemesto....lol

 

[wedoitall]

Well I bought a KFL v2 a couple weeks ago and even I like it ok, especially after I drilled it out a tad I wasn't overly impressed. So I bought a Squape and drilled it out for increased airflow. Holy Cow is all I can say. Will be posting up my KFL on the classifieds really soon.

 

[ronpaek100]

Is it me or does the new KFL+ v2 have an even tighter draw than the original KFL+ v1 when both air flow control screws are fully open and flush with the base of the KFL+??

I'm not getting a whistling sound but just a super tight draw more so than ever before..

 

[dutch onsea]

The KFL+ has a srew for air-control. So what do you mean by drilling it out? You took out the srew and drilled it out further? Could you post some pictures of that?