Bronze...I have one of each and don't know. I will never use anywhere near the limit of 20 watts and certainly not 30, but I just like the mods. They are perfect for me at work as I often have to quickly stash my vape gear and have had a couple of issues with my bottom button mods not getting locked properly and firing when I don't want them to. Mine are both box style which aren't the most beautiful, but perfect for work.
Well, by increasing watt capacity, it's kind of assumed it will take coils to a lower resistance unless I'm not understanding what you're saying.
That exactly Ma'am! I couldn't go beyond 12W till now. Anything higher and the vape tastes wonky (burnt, muted, whatever). I too don't think I'd ever need 20 either, forget the 30
But got them for their 'looks' and a surefire performance. And whatta performer the WAE-II is! Besides being a head turner. Drop dead gorgeous!
Thanks, I really appreciate that -- the 1mmx2mm is the correct size?
Thx!
Andria
Well not necessarily. The chip could boost the voltage up. You could always achieve 30watts on a 3ohm coil if you wished to
Although an important point about the DNA: it cannot buckle down voltage. The lowest voltage it can go is the voltage on the battery at the point in time. Which means that with a fresh battery and 0.5 ohm coil, you are forced to go around the region of 22watts. Another reason why I can't wait to sell mine off once I'm back in the states.
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Lol trust Akdare. She's the authority on kayfun orings. Yes, an important position.
Yes, Andria...the 1x2mm orings are the tiny ones for the fill port. All things vape are metric.
Maybe someone here can help me...
I have a KFL+ clone (hcigar I think?) and I just cannot get it working consistently. I've tried a few wicking materials, always single microcoils coming out 1.2-2Ω. Best luck I've had so far was SS mesh wick (PITA to set up) but it still has the same problem... I'll get 5-10 good hits, then it'll go dry. If I wait a while between hits, my next hit is always dry. Take a few primer pulls and it'll be fine for 5-10 hits, then flooding. Wait a while, get 5-10 good hits then dry and just keeps going through this cycle. Anyone know what the problem is?
I've read through quite a few posts here, making sure not to block the groove where the juice gets let to the deck. My cotton touches the bottom of the juice wells and if there's extra I run it along the back of the well (Not flattening it against the wall to the deck, but using juice to kinda gently glue it to the back wall so it doesn't interfere with the groove). With the stainless steel I kinda pinched the ends to more of a rectangle shape and it's a bit closer to that groove. I also check after I put the chimney on to make sure the cotton doesn't get moved in any way, and if it does I fix it.
Probably is leaking from the screw. Try a couple of wraps of dental floss around the screw and let us know.Well, as if the extra-tight draw wasn't a bad enough problem with that cheapie kayfun lite clone I just got, now I discover that it leaks. I'm not sure where it's leaking from, though. I had it attached to one of my iTaste vv3s, so I was using a flared ego cone under it, to give a better looking line, and the leaked juice was all over the top of that cone, but I don't see any down in the 510 well. This one doesn't have airflow control, so it's not from that; I suspect it might be leaking from the fill screw, from the total lack of juice in the 510 well, around the battery post, but a good bit of it on the top of the flared cone.
Has anyone else seen this with these cheap kayfun lite clones, and if so, any ideas on how I might get it to stop doing that?
I had already decided that this one would be a "backup" kayfun, since the tobeco KFL+ is so much better and also not very expensive, so it looks like I need to go ahead and get another of those tobeco KFL+ clones.
thx!
Andria
Well, as if the extra-tight draw wasn't a bad enough problem with that cheapie kayfun lite clone I just got, now I discover that it leaks. I'm not sure where it's leaking from, though. I had it attached to one of my iTaste vv3s, so I was using a flared ego cone under it, to give a better looking line, and the leaked juice was all over the top of that cone, but I don't see any down in the 510 well. This one doesn't have airflow control, so it's not from that; I suspect it might be leaking from the fill screw, from the total lack of juice in the 510 well, around the battery post, but a good bit of it on the top of the flared cone.
Has anyone else seen this with these cheap kayfun lite clones, and if so, any ideas on how I might get it to stop doing that?
I had already decided that this one would be a "backup" kayfun, since the tobeco KFL+ is so much better and also not very expensive, so it looks like I need to go ahead and get another of those tobeco KFL+ clones.
thx!
Andria
Well, as if the extra-tight draw wasn't a bad enough problem with that cheapie kayfun lite clone I just got, now I discover that it leaks. I'm not sure where it's leaking from, though. I had it attached to one of my iTaste vv3s, so I was using a flared ego cone under it, to give a better looking line, and the leaked juice was all over the top of that cone, but I don't see any down in the 510 well. This one doesn't have airflow control, so it's not from that; I suspect it might be leaking from the fill screw, from the total lack of juice in the 510 well, around the battery post, but a good bit of it on the top of the flared cone.
Has anyone else seen this with these cheap kayfun lite clones, and if so, any ideas on how I might get it to stop doing that?
I had already decided that this one would be a "backup" kayfun, since the tobeco KFL+ is so much better and also not very expensive, so it looks like I need to go ahead and get another of those tobeco KFL+ clones.
thx!
Andria
Ok... I had to disassemble this one anyway, to make a new coil+wick to work on that extra-tight draw problem -- got some tips in the thread about 'show your working wick & coil'. Now it's got a "macro" (non-compressed) 30ga 7/64 1.8Ω coil, and the ends of the wick, I cut on the diagonal, so not so much wick laying on the deck in the chamber, and, I raised up the coil a bit more than I had been doing, and those steps (macro coil, diagonal-cut wick ends, raised up coil) *seems* to have successfully addressed the tight-draw problem, so maybe the wick won't burn so quickly as it was doing before. It's still a tighter draw than the KFL+ even with the KFL+ airflow completely closed, but it doesn't feel odd, like it's blocked, as it did before, so I'll have to see how it does.
I did get an extra o-ring for the fill screw for my KFL+, but I'm already using it, since the first one shredded in 3 wks -- the vendor said he was sending me some extras they had laying around, so I should have those in a day or two, and I'll definitely try one of those; meanwhile I'll just keep my eye on it, see if it does the leaking again -- I found it this morning after it had been sitting all evening and all night, so it had a good while to do the leaking.
And of course, I recognize the truth of "you get what you pay for," it's just that I don't have an unlimited budget, so I have to get what I can afford. I was just really really REALLY tired of those little T3S tanks and their constant burnt taste, gurgling, leaking, etc etc etc, especially once I learned to build coils. I found another tobeco KFL+ on ebay that had just been listed for bids, so maybe I'll luck out and get another decent clone for a pretty decent price.
Andria
This is coming to Papa
View attachment 343091 View attachment 343092 View attachment 343093
The Erlkönigin-EK-001
Just grabbed it today ~ shipping tomorrow. Stoked√
Posted it elsewhere thought of sharing it here as well...