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mgmrick

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I had same issues in my regular sized kayfuns when using rayon. Unlike you I could not even get rayon to work in regular sized kayfuns....but I like the cotton but just wanted to see what all the hype was about....back using cotton and could not be happier

Guys, it is my regret to inform you that I had to go back to using organic cotton instead of rayon in this ToBeCo 28.5mm kayfun Lite.
I really tried to give the rayon a fair chance. I rewicked it "Six ways to Sunday" with less rayon, more rayon and so on... But it always ended up dry hitting at some point. Obviously, the wick was not kipping up with my 0.6 Ohms high efficiency ribbon coil with non resistive leads at 30 Watts approximately. But when I switched back to cotton - problem was solved. I have no problem using rayon in a dozen of differed RBA and rda including several regular sized Kayfuns. It's just this one Big kayfun had me work overtime.
 

Aal_

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I think the problem with rayon in your kayfuns is that it transports liquid too fast to the coil. The key here is that kayfun transporting liquid to the wick cannot keep up with the rayon. Cotton on the other hand is slow wicking. Although you are getting more dry hits with rayon you are in fact vaping more liquid per toot. That's that. The only solution I see is to improve liquid speed from tank to wick. Maybe take diver way and drill out those slots.
 

AMDTrucking

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I think the problem with rayon in your kayfuns is that it transports liquid too fast to the coil. The key here is that kayfun transporting liquid to the wick cannot keep up with the rayon. Cotton on the other hand is slow wicking. Although you are getting more dry hits with rayon you are in fact vaping more liquid per toot. That's that. The only solution I see is to improve liquid speed from tank to wick. Maybe take diver way and drill out those slots.

I was thinking about taking my Dremel and enlarging those vertical juice channels, they are pretty small after all. But wouldn't it be opening a gateway to flooding because of the large amount of liquid pressure? 11 ML.

P.S: I've been vaping on this cotton build for several hours now. I'm down to half tank. And not a single problem.

P.P.S: Its working great now. I'm sure you've seen this before: When you have a build that gives you nice and full rich, full of flavor vape experience when you see some vapor coming out of the air intake hole at the end of each puff.
 
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Aal_

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I was thinking about taking my Dremel and enlarging those vertical juice channels, they are pretty small after all. But wouldn't it be opening a gateway to flooding because of the large amount of liquid pressure? 11 ML.

P.S: I've been vaping on this cotton build for several hours now. I'm down to half tank. And not a single problem.
It is your choice. But think about it for a second. The problem with rayon is in fact the inability of kayfun to keep up. If you make those slots larger then kayfun will keep up and you will notice the liquid finishing faster than usual. So in fact rayon is more efficient than cotton although it gives you dry hits.

I didn't drill my slots. I don't want to sound like a know it all before attempting it myself. But i analyzed my builds and i played with an open kayfun inspecting carefully how the rayon is handling small drips of liquid on the tails. the coil becomes red after like 10 seconds however when i calculate how much liquid it is consuming it is a lot compared to cotton. I cannot tell u to drill your slots since i cannot bear the responsibility of ruining your kayfun (unless you have many clones lol) but what I can tell you is that with the correct air control (lite plus) and the hard sucking action I am not getting a dry hit and burning into liquid way more than cotton. It is tiring I might drill those slots at the end of the day.
 

vapdivrr

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Guys, it is my regret to inform you that I had to go back to using organic cotton instead of rayon in this ToBeCo 28.5mm Kayfun Lite.
I really tried to give the rayon a fair chance. I rewicked it "Six ways to Sunday" with less rayon, more rayon and so on... But it always ended up dry hitting at some point. Obviously, the wick was not kipping up with my 0.6 Ohms high efficiency ribbon coil with non resistive leads at 30 Watts approximately. But when I switched back to cotton - problem was solved. I have no problem using rayon in a dozen of differed RBA and RDA including several regular sized Kayfuns. It's just this one Big Kayfun had me work overtime.
No regrets needed here, whatever works is best.
 

mgmrick

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I was able to get rayon to work with my kayfuns but not without issues. When I would refill they just would not start wicking on their own. It would take at least a half of an hour after a refill. I would try all sorts of things none of which I thought worked. Them bam.... they started wicking and it was good to go till the next refill. Once they started wicking they worked till it was another refill then it started all over again.

I tried more.. i tried less.. I tried bigger..smaller coils.. less juice...fill screw...top screw...and on and on.

In the end cotton has and always worked and the performance fits my needs just fine so I dumped the rayon
 

vapdivrr

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I was able to get rayon to work with my kayfuns but not without issues. When I would refill they just would not start wicking on their own. It would take at least a half of an hour after a refill. I would try all sorts of things none of which I thought worked. Them bam.... they started wicking and it was good to go till the next refill. Once they started wicking they worked till it was another refill then it started all over again.

I tried more.. i tried less.. I tried bigger..smaller coils.. less juice...fill screw...top screw...and on and on.

In the end cotton has and always worked and the performance fits my needs just fine so I dumped the rayon
I have wicked a couple of kayfuns with rayon. I have been messing around with the rayon for a couple weeks and have had pretty good results. I haven't had your results, every build I have made wicked instantly. It did take a few builds to get the amounts correct, the first time I didn't use enough so I got some dry hits but even this poor coil wicked instantly. I then used to much and flavor was rayoney, like before, although this was a poor build, it wicked instantly. I tried Rayon because of so many people saying how incredible the flavor is compared to cotton, after 2 weeks and many successful builds, I see no real difference in flavor to cotton in my kayfuns.
 

Bronze

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I have wicked a couple of kayfuns with rayon. I have been messing around with the rayon for a couple weeks and have had pretty good results. I haven't had your results, every build I have made wicked instantly. It did take a few builds to get the amounts correct, the first time I didn't use enough so I got some dry hits but even this poor coil wicked instantly. I then used to much and flavor was rayoney, like before, although this was a poor build, it wicked instantly. I tried Rayon because of so many people saying how incredible the flavor is compared to cotton, after 2 weeks and many successful builds, I see no real difference in flavor to cotton in my kayfuns.

But I'm glad you researched it. Thanks. I appreciate you being on the cutting edge and imparting your findings. :)
 

WharfRat1976

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Has anyone made a micro coil that is so tight, that it doesn't light up correctly? I try to make my micros as tight as possible because they are supposed to be more efficient and have less chances of micro shorts. Supposedly there are other reasons why a micro coil should be super tight but tbh, the reasons I have heard about are a little above my expertise. Anyways i do try to obtain a truly tight micro coil but sometimes it seems like they could be too tight. There have been times when I do the burn and squeeze and cannot get the coil to light up from the center out. No matter what I do they just don't light correctly until I slightly separate the coils. So has anyone else found this to the case?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Divrr, you definitely do not want shorts but in the end, the tightness or looseness of your coil really makes little difference. The tighter the coil the hotter it will burn. It will be more "efficient" using your word. What you are really considering is will my vape and flavor and wicking be better at 250 degrees, 350 degrees or 450 degrees or higher, or variations in between.

Bottom line, it makes little difference. A tighter coil may last a little longer. A tighter coil looks better in forum pics. That's about it. To atomize juice you really do not need much heat at all. That's my :2c:
 

WharfRat1976

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For Kayfun users take a Dremel and a wire brush to all your threads. Clean them out well. I think bad and gunked and dirty threads do not allow the device to pressurize correctly and you end up with leaks and sputters and gurgle and all the rest.

I cleaned the crap out of all my threads and connections and o-rings and now very little leaks. You can even do the dreaded top-fills and the device pressurizes. All of my KF's have rayon wicks in them. They last 10Xs what a cotton wick lasts and they don't burn and gunk the coils like cotton does. I have one KF that I have run over 20mls of a clearer juice through and still haven't changed the wicks.

I use a 6X magnifier to see the gunk in the threads. I cannot see it with the naked eye. I was shocked at all the crust in my threads...Mon!
 

Bronze

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For Kayfun users take a Dremel and a wire brush to all your threads. Clean them out well. I think bad and gunked and dirty threads do not allow the device to pressurize correctly and you end up with leaks and sputters and gurgle and all the rest.

I cleaned the crap out of all my threads and connections and o-rings and now very little leaks. You can even do the dreaded top-fills and the device pressurizes. All of my KF's have rayon wicks in them. They last 10Xs what a cotton wick lasts and they don't burn and gunk the coils like cotton does. I have one KF that I have run over 20mls of a clearer juice through and still haven't changed the wicks.

I use a 6X magnifier to see the gunk in the threads. I cannot see it with the naked eye. I was shocked at all the crust in my threads...Mon!

I own two genuine Svoemesto KFLs and the last thing I would ever do to them is take a dremel and wire brush to the threads.
 

Fir3b1rd

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I own two genuine Svoemesto KFLs and the last thing I would ever do to them is take a dremel and wire brush to the threads.

I know right? There are more efficient ways to clean something without using power tools and wire brushes. The idea of doing that to a 100$ plus atty would be like using boric acid and steel wool to clean my 1500 dollar chefs knives.
 
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ethermion

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I own two genuine Svoemesto KFLs and the last thing I would ever do to them is take a dremel and wire brush to the threads.

Real deal KFL+ here. I would never, ever touch the threads like that. The thing just works. Almost 2 weeks on a Rayon wick, using very light colored juice. Really happy.

As for you clone users, I dunno. I am not rich enough to buy cheap stuff.

If your threads are gunked up, clean it with a toothbrush. And, no, I do not know where to buy a toothbrush online for cheap.

Thanks to the Kiwi Dude, I picked up some 8 mm x 1 mm o-rings from McMaster. I got the silicon ones. They are reddish, and look cool, and seem 10x tougher than the stock rubber-ish ones. If the o-rings seal, threads don't matter so much as long as it holds together.
 

AMDTrucking

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Here, I Dremeled the vertical juice channels by 0.2mm deeper each side. I'm still using the same 0.6 Ohm Ribbon Coil and alot of Rayon.
So far - so good. But will see how it does later...

4Z3uK6j.jpg
 

AMDTrucking

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Why, why, why?

Get a real deal KFL, and point your wicks at the channels.

Because it is 28.5 mm, holds 11 ML of juice and costs $30.00. That's why. :)

P. S: I do have a real deal Kayfun 3.1 ES and I love it dearly as well as four other clones like EHPro, HCigar and ToBeCo. But they all are 22mm 4.5 ML capacity.
 
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