You didn't really hijack the thread. But since the SOISZ + K24 combo is the most expensive on your list (although you are talking about a shorty ceracoate which adds about $40 to the price), I'd say go Roundhouse Copper + Copper deck + Black cap. The copper deck is gonna need some upkeep but it'll look sweet on an all copper mod. And if you ever wanted to, forcing a patina wouldn't be the hardest thing to do. The Ruby is the best value but I wouldn't dedicate to a hybrid.Sorry to hijack the thread guys, but I value all of your opinions, strangely
Which would you choose:
I sure would love to have a toy to play with this weekend (wife is going out of town), but those are some pretty sweet deals!
- Sub Zero Shorty (all colors) & K24 (all finishes + black and an orange) = $259.77 (Instant gratification, local shop close to my office)
- Ruby (copper or stainless) = $179 (probably get it next Wednesday or Thursday)
- Roundhouse (copper or stainless) + K24 (all finishes + black) = $192.60 (same ETA)
Went off the rails and got a Petri mod and RDA. Good price with the sale they had going on and I fell in love with it the moment I saw her
...No problem. I have 2 Petri's, a v1 & v2, but not the mod. Did you get the v2 atty? I have a suspicion dotmod is going to be releasing a v2 mech mod or maybe I'm reaching here but I'm hoping for a parallel box mech.Went off the rails and got a Petri mod and RDA. Good price with the sale they had going on and I fell in love with it the moment I saw her
Going to pick up a Kennedy set-up next month!
Thanks Tom.
Naw. Maybe on a series mech, but my 8 wrap dual framed staple aliens in my Petri v1 are a slow ramp with less flavor and vapor production on a single battery mech even though they're sitting at .20Ω. If I threw it on a reg'd mod & cranked up the wattage I'd get more flavor/vapor. I don't believe that more surface area always equates to more vapor & flavor.
Did include a drip tip, yes.
.The Petri is coated stainless with 24k gold plated copper contacts. And the gold plating on my 2 Petri atties are pretty thick, so I'd expect the same from the mod.Nice mod...Beautiful button...Thank you for the break down!
1. Is the tube material underneath the PVD coating aluminum or stainless steel?
2. How do you remove the spring loaded insulator from the switch for maintenance?
Offhand, I still prefer the Ruby/Roundhouse for the following reasons:
1. Much more threading is available at the switch for greater conductive contact area.
2. Lack of a top cap eliminates a threaded component as well as reliance on a firing pin.
3. Negative contact does not need to be screwed into the button, thereby eliminating the prospect of cam-out.
4. 24mm body features greater conductive mass and is available in ss/brass/cu options.
That said, I am not sure that I would say no to a Petri Mod given the right price
Not sure about removal, haven't tried yetNice mod...Beautiful button...Thank you for the break down!
1. Is the tube material underneath the PVD coating aluminum or stainless steel?
2. How do you remove the spring loaded insulator from the switch for maintenance?
Offhand, I still prefer the Ruby/Roundhouse for the following reasons:
1. Much more threading is available at the switch for greater conductive contact area.
2. Lack of a top cap eliminates a threaded component as well as reliance on a firing pin.
3. Negative contact does not need to be screwed into the button, thereby eliminating the prospect of cam-out.
4. 24mm body features greater conductive mass and is available in ss/brass/cu options.
That said, I am not sure that I would say no to a Petri Mod given the right price
Not if you keep her clean on the inside haha. I don't think Steve Kennedy would be selling them raw if he didn't think they'd be safe with upkeep.
I tried to take a pic. But it doesn't do it justice. Basically there's a hole in the bottom of the center post where the juice comes out of. It's done perfectly that it still drains efficiently
