KF V4 clone floods when filled.
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The first thing to ask is do you understand the juice control system?
To fill the K4, hold the base ring with your left hand and turn the ring with the air holes counter clockwise with your right hand until you can turn it no more. Now undo the fill cap and fill. Replace fill nut, hold base ring and turn airholes ring clockwise until it stops.
The "airhole ring" is the juice control ring. Failure to close it before filling results in juice flooding out of the air holes.
Yes, changing #16 on a clone is often a good idea. It's often a good idea also to go up a size - to 12x1.5. It's likely that the groove the oring seats in is machined too deep.
What is a plt tank?
To fill the K4, hold the base ring with your left hand and turn the ring with the air holes counter clockwise with your right hand until you can turn it no more. Now undo the fill cap and fill. Replace fill nut, hold base ring and turn airholes ring clockwise until it stops.
The "airhole ring" is the juice control ring. Failure to close it before filling results in juice flooding out of the air holes.
Yes, changing #16 on a clone is often a good idea. It's often a good idea also to go up a size - to 12x1.5. It's likely that the groove the oring seats in is machined too deep.
What is a plt tank?
A problem with some V4 clones is the top nut. The threads should be flat on two opposing sides. If yours is not, this will over pressurize the tank as you tighten it and force juice to flood the deck. If this is the case with your clone you can, order a replacement top nut with the correct flat spots, file or grind flat spots into yours if you are comfortable with this type of procedure, or, slowly tighten the nut after filling until it is a couple of threads deep then flip the tank, let the air rise to the deck area then finish tightening the nut the rest of the way.
I do understand the juice control valve, closed when filling. Plt=plastic(polycarbonate) tank. Which nut are you referring to that there is a problem with, #? I'll receive 11x1.5 and 12x1.5 o rings in the mail Monday. I bought two of these three days apart from the same seller on ebay. The 1st is the problem child the 2cnd is like a Swiss watch movement, perfect. The first was over tightened at the factory, I had to use a pair of plyers to get it apart to strip it, I put the glass tank in it and it constantly leaked, that's why I now have the plastic tank installed. I replaced all the o rings below the lower tank ring with parts in the kit. From Best Gear I have the whole lower mechanism below the tank ring ordered, plus o ring sets. So I have everything covered repair wise other than the problem filling it. Love the way it vapes.
The nut is #38. The threading should not be completely round, it should have 2 flat areas on it to release vacuum as it is tightened. Early ehpro clones did not have these flats and flooded as you describe. So it's vaguely possible you have an old ehpro, though you say it's unbranded. Certainly worth checking the nut.
Could you be overfilling it?
What are you referring to as "top fill ring"? #38 is the one to remove to fill. If you are undoing #35 to fill, then it will flood when tightened.
If #16 was the culprit then it ought to leak all the time, rather than flood when filling.
Does the flooding happen during filling, or just when you tighten things down?
Check how many turns you get on JC from open to closed. It should be more than 2.
Could you be overfilling it?
What are you referring to as "top fill ring"? #38 is the one to remove to fill. If you are undoing #35 to fill, then it will flood when tightened.
If #16 was the culprit then it ought to leak all the time, rather than flood when filling.
Does the flooding happen during filling, or just when you tighten things down?
Check how many turns you get on JC from open to closed. It should be more than 2.
When #38 is loosened you can see air bubbles come up from the juice feed holes. Vacuum? What I've done is wrap my thumb and index finger around the air holes and it's 80% better. The other one I bought hasn't had a glitch at all right out of the box.. Good thing to, my wife uses it. I'll check the nut . Can it be filed flat on opposite sides to make this alteration?
After further review, #38 is flat on two sides.
After further review, #38 is flat on two sides.
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It floods because the air flow isnt completely closed off. I love mne but occasionally I'm in a hurry and dont close my air off all the way before filling. I know immediately because when I unscrew the top, I see bubbles. This is not a hue problem, I just fling it into a paper towell, turn it upside down and give a blow through it and wipe off any excess e liquid. I really like my kayfun v4, much better design.
here's the build I prefer in my V4. .79ohms
here's the build I prefer in my V4. .79ohms
Isn't the KF supposed to be filled thru the little port on the bottom with a needle tip? Or am I confused yet again?
Then the problem is the valve itself. Is there a cure? I just closed it down tight and the same result.
Not over filing, Flooding when being filled, valve closed. Valve turns only 1 1/4 times.
I dunno, but all I have seen in the videos on the Kfuns is that if you open them up to fill they are VERY prone to flood and the only way is the little fill port on the bottom which also messes up I have heard. The little check valve sticks. Sorry no help from me. Maybe check out some Kfun vids on youtube?
JC turns not enough. Thats the problem and the cause of flooding while filling.
Check if you can turn it further. Hold the base firmly maybe with pliers, put a screwdriver or allen key in a air hole and put a bit of work into it. It might just be a bit stiff and need freeing up. There's a slender chance that 12x1.5 #16 oring will sort it, but I doubt it.
More likely is a machining error causing #8 to sit too deep in #3. Take out the 510 pin, being careful not to lose #2. Does the JC turn now?
I forget if it's #8 or #3 thats machined wrong. I've only seen one mention of which it is and I've forgotten. The only place I know that sold them seems to have stopped. I'll ask here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/634516-attack-kayfun-v4-clones-352.html to see if anyone has another link, so it might be worth you keeping an eye on the thread.
If not, you going to need to do one of two things:
a) sand #7 until you lose about half of it's width. Maybe a bit more. Nice even job.
b) find some shimming material about 10 thou thick, drill a hole in it and cut it to fit the square indent in #3. This might work. If not, you still need to sand #7 down a bit. I'm not sure if shims greater than 10 thou will work - #3 indent might not be enough to take it. But it might be worth trying 11 thou. The tobeco accessories kit includes #7. You can get it here and other places: Kayfun V4 by Tobeco Accessories Kit
While deciding what to do, you have 2 options for flood free filling:
a) remove 510 pin, close JC, replace 510 pin, fill, remove 510 pin, open JC, replace 510 pin
b) invert atty, remove tank, fill through holes in chimney with syringe or similar.
It's a PITA problem which has been about since clones were first released. It affects a small percentage of clones, irrespective of manufacturer.
Check if you can turn it further. Hold the base firmly maybe with pliers, put a screwdriver or allen key in a air hole and put a bit of work into it. It might just be a bit stiff and need freeing up. There's a slender chance that 12x1.5 #16 oring will sort it, but I doubt it.
More likely is a machining error causing #8 to sit too deep in #3. Take out the 510 pin, being careful not to lose #2. Does the JC turn now?
I forget if it's #8 or #3 thats machined wrong. I've only seen one mention of which it is and I've forgotten. The only place I know that sold them seems to have stopped. I'll ask here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/634516-attack-kayfun-v4-clones-352.html to see if anyone has another link, so it might be worth you keeping an eye on the thread.
If not, you going to need to do one of two things:
a) sand #7 until you lose about half of it's width. Maybe a bit more. Nice even job.
b) find some shimming material about 10 thou thick, drill a hole in it and cut it to fit the square indent in #3. This might work. If not, you still need to sand #7 down a bit. I'm not sure if shims greater than 10 thou will work - #3 indent might not be enough to take it. But it might be worth trying 11 thou. The tobeco accessories kit includes #7. You can get it here and other places: Kayfun V4 by Tobeco Accessories Kit
While deciding what to do, you have 2 options for flood free filling:
a) remove 510 pin, close JC, replace 510 pin, fill, remove 510 pin, open JC, replace 510 pin
b) invert atty, remove tank, fill through holes in chimney with syringe or similar.
It's a PITA problem which has been about since clones were first released. It affects a small percentage of clones, irrespective of manufacturer.
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Just noticed this: "From Best Gear I have the whole lower mechanism below the tank ring ordered"
does this mean you can simply replace #3 and #8? If so, that's the way to go.
I'll guess at #8 being the most likely culprit, so replace that first and see if it fixes it. If not, replace #3 also.
does this mean you can simply replace #3 and #8? If so, that's the way to go.
I'll guess at #8 being the most likely culprit, so replace that first and see if it fixes it. If not, replace #3 also.
I'll continue with the choke hold for now until the parts get here. They're marked shipped, then I'll discard the whole lower, I also have the death wobble on the base. This one is just a pita to the bone. I put the glass tank back in and the upper half is all good now. Thanks for your help. I'll update when the parts get here. I also have o rings coming Monday from the O Ring Store, 11x15 and 12x1.5. Love the w ay this thing vapes, so it's worth the effort.
By best gear, did you mean gearbest? I've just ordered the kit that includes #3 and # 8, for my jammed JC. I'll replace #8 first. I'd recommend you do the same cos then you've isolated the problem and have more spares but YMMV.
The "death wobble" might be #9 having worked loose - another common prob, more common with clones. #9 is the only part of the atty that needs to be really tight. The other symptom of a loose #9 is that the ohms jump about.
Yes, please report back, preferably in the v4 clones thread which I am more likely to see
The "death wobble" might be #9 having worked loose - another common prob, more common with clones. #9 is the only part of the atty that needs to be really tight. The other symptom of a loose #9 is that the ohms jump about.
Yes, please report back, preferably in the v4 clones thread which I am more likely to see
http://www.gearbest.com/electronic-cigarettes/pp_143946.html, this the kit I ordered. Hope there's enough to get it done.
Ought to be. It's the same kit I just ordered based on your post. The machining error is only between 3 and 8 (and I think it's 8).
If the kit doesn't work you are in wholly uncharted territory
Ought to be. It's the same kit I just ordered based on your post. The machining error is only between 3 and 8 (and I think it's 8).
If the kit doesn't work you are in wholly uncharted territory
I tightened up #9, I thought it was stripped. So the bottom is now correct. Replaced o rings #27 and #18, tightened it all up and the damned thing is working and filling fine. This thing is wonderful for a rookie to learn about rta's. Thanks for the input.
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