In regards to Killer 705..... I have 2X from a couple months ago SN in 500s, third one SN 7xx, and newest, just received SN 1xxx. I don't see any revisions and the latest vapes like the earlier ones.
I am extremely sensitive to any manufacturing residue so I boil them first intact, that is just unscrew base from cap; three fresh water boils. I suspend a metal strainer into pot. Then dry a bit and hold a paper towel or anthing absorbent gently on wick to remove excess water and then a dry burn.
Torching.... It seems that I read earlier about someone having trouble getting the ceramic cup off center post and having to break it to get it off. So the other night I was doing a recoiling and good cleaning of the three oldest. I patted off excess juice and immersed the three in the boiling water using strainer before taking old coils off. One I used for five weeks, one three weeks, and one less than two weeks dryburning daily and good torching every few days. Then removed the cups. The one I used five weeks, with at least 15 heavy torchings over that time...... the ceramic cup was "fused" to center post. I had to break it and then use dremel to remove rest of ceramic fused to post. The cups on the other two slipped off easily. I don't know if the "fused" cup was a coincidence or from so many heavy torchings.
To keep silica intact and non fraying when doing recoil of Killer and eBaron to clean silica I recoil then a quick dip in boiling water, pat dry and then dryburn. For other wicks, for other type builds with more exposed wicks I do the build, attach, and do a quick dryburn, and very light torch of wick using lowest temp with torch. RBAs with posts for attaching positive and negative end of coil typically have insulation for positive post in base that is easily melted with too much heat so you have to keep the torch heat low to avoid melting post insulation.
Feisty Alice
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