it has come down to it, which one is better? reliability - durability - function - experience? The indulgence seems to me like it might be more durable - but i think i having the option to change voltage would be awesome. So should it be indulgence with lower resistance atties or VV tube with 3.0s? need input so many mixed opinions
lavatube vs indulgence
- Thread starter saltysharktoes
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Look down this page a little bit, and you'll find the same kind of things said about the indulgence that I read when I looked at them. I do own a lavatube and like it. I'm thinking about getting a Bolt as a backup device.
I have an LT and hate it. It self regulates the voltage down to where it "thinks" it should be to protect the circuitry. That's a big disadvantage. Also, I own 2 Indulgences and love them. You can change the voltage by changing the types of batteries you use.
I have and do recommend the LT. Its a nice device but it is also a mass produced in China. I have had it pushing 3 months with no issues. I like it so much or VV so much I wish I would have bit the bullet and got a Pro Vari long ago and not a bunch of other devices.
The Indulgence from what I've read whether V1 or V3 has been famous for firing issues in the 8 months or so of vaping. If you want a cheap but non VV solid tube mod I would look at the Bolt with 18650 ext tube Crystal Clear Vaping or Parkes Vaping Diamond or Shine mods... Have heard nothing but good on these. The Bolt has been more less called a budget friendly version of the Silver Bullet which is arguably one of the most solid devices made...
The Indulgence from what I've read whether V1 or V3 has been famous for firing issues in the 8 months or so of vaping. If you want a cheap but non VV solid tube mod I would look at the Bolt with 18650 ext tube Crystal Clear Vaping or Parkes Vaping Diamond or Shine mods... Have heard nothing but good on these. The Bolt has been more less called a budget friendly version of the Silver Bullet which is arguably one of the most solid devices made...
i have a shine - i feel like im going to break it every time i put a battery in it. i definitely don't have enough for a provari right now and i know you all the say one button control is easy but i think that would be annoying. im leaning towards a lavatube - from what ive heard it only auto corrects voltage on LR atties - so with regular resistance atties it seems like probably the most viable option. anymore detail on how firing issues in the indulgence occur? i havent heard much about this issue till recently.
I have both and honestly for the money both are good but they are in different categories. I have the latest V3 indulgence and it have been flawless for me which is more than I can say for my bolt. The lava tube is the bottom of the barrel when it comes to VV it works but has issues. If you are not wanting to use a DC tank the LT is fine, but if you are wanting to use a DC tank I would look at a IPro just my opinion.
It turns its self down when using DC carto's. I just can not push it much past 3.8v with a lr DC carto.
alright lava tube, 2 boxes of boge 3.0s cartos, and 150ml of juice on the way im stoked
I dont think you will be disappointed. Honestly, the lavatube regulates voltage so you dont burn up an atty, good for those who are new not good for those who want burnt crap taste. I am still quite new to the lavatube but am happy with it. The trouble is with ALL devices IMO is , NO Dcoumentation. All these so called "high end" mods and the creators or distributors are too lazy to create a lousy technical document to the user.
What does it cost to create a pictoriual leaflet, A small troubleshooting guide and a technical support reference.
Highend. last all day works reliably , how about 510 socket with leads attached to alligator clips and a car battery so you can claim "mah??, I work in Cold cranking amps, your mod is childs play kid"
Honestly high end , 200 bucks but cant be botheredf to create a owners manual... What a joke.
What does it cost to create a pictoriual leaflet, A small troubleshooting guide and a technical support reference.
Highend. last all day works reliably , how about 510 socket with leads attached to alligator clips and a car battery so you can claim "mah??, I work in Cold cranking amps, your mod is childs play kid"
Honestly high end , 200 bucks but cant be botheredf to create a owners manual... What a joke.
Last edited by a moderator:
Just to make this post fair , for those who believe in the your lavatube limiter sucks, The new provari v2's limit amperage draw and current on LR attys as well. Maybe Lavatubes were first to the gate on VV's with built in protection circuitry. Maybe they saw a potential fire hazard from noobs burning up batteries and mods when they drove 6 volts at 500ma into a 1.25Ohm carto. Go ahead and laugh, but some idiots wear these like badges of honor. How many posts do you see about guys intentionally vaping up a carty in one hit. People lik this I would like to group as " Glow stick kids"
And an indulgence so I can carry a pocket full of batteries incase i decide I want to switch to high voltage vaping ? Come on how practical is that unless you want a fanny pack full of vaping supplies.
And an indulgence so I can carry a pocket full of batteries incase i decide I want to switch to high voltage vaping ? Come on how practical is that unless you want a fanny pack full of vaping supplies.
The Lavatube was not the first to implement protection circuitry. The original Provari had it with the same documented spec as the Lavatube (2.5amp) but in most every comparison, everything else being equal (atty and battery) the Lavatubes limiter kicked it quicker, at lower volts.
The limiter also works differently, in the Provari when the over current protection kicks in it shuts the mod down and gives an error code to let the user know what's going on. The Lavatube keeps on vaping with no other feedback other than reduced performance.
The Provari V2 just raised the current limit from 2.5 to 3.5, it was there in both mods.
Thanks for the correction. I must admit I did not know about the increase in max draw or the fact that the original prov had built in protection either. Learn something new everyday. Either way supported by another post now, reinforcing point.
I have no doubt the provari is a shining piece of technological advancment and that it is great, dont mistake my respect for the device. I am just not sure if it is worth $211.00. That is a serious chunk of change when IMO there are comparable units doing the same thing for less. Albeit if you have to show the ultimate in class and refinement you might think provari but then again IMO nothing says class like a GGTS.
I have no doubt the provari is a shining piece of technological advancment and that it is great, dont mistake my respect for the device. I am just not sure if it is worth $211.00. That is a serious chunk of change when IMO there are comparable units doing the same thing for less. Albeit if you have to show the ultimate in class and refinement you might think provari but then again IMO nothing says class like a GGTS.
Last edited:
No, I think that would be the Buzz Pro, which I also think might have been the first commercial VV. Could be wrong on this though.
I didn't have any LR DCs in front of me at the time I first did this (copied from a Vapatron post).
DC = Dual coil, SC = Single Coil
From my LT (w/ a Panasonic CGR18650CH 2250mAh batt, not fresh):
Set to Voltage, Measured voltage under load, Calculated static amperage--
Using 3.0 ohm DC carto/tank:
set 5.4v, 5.6v, 1.87A
set 5.5v, 5.7v, 1.90A
set 5.6v, 5.6v, 1.87A
set 6.0v, 5.8v, 1.93A
2.7 ohm DC carto/tank:
set 4.2v, 4.26v, 1.58A
set 4.5v, 4.6v, 1.70A
set 5.0v, 5.1v, 1.89A
set 5.3v, 5.3v, 1.96A
set 5.4v, 5.4v, 2.00A
set 5.5v, 5.4v, 2.00A
set 5.6v, 5.4v, 2.00A
Using 2.0 ohm SC carto/tank
set 4.0v, 4.02v, 2.01A
set 4.2v, 4.24v, 2.12A
set 4.3v, 4.34v, 2.17A
set 4.4v, 4.5v, 2.20A
set 4.5v, 4.6v, 2.30A
set 4.6v, 4.7v, 2.35A
set 4.7v, 4.7v, 2.35A
set 4.8v, 4.8v, 2.40A
set 5.0v, 4.8v, 2.40A
PS: The LT now has a fresh batt in it and I just threw the 1.25 ohm DC on the LT and set to 3.8v it will do 3.61v under load. 3.61v was as high, under load, as it would go. I popped the fuse in my multimeter last night so I can't double check the carto resistance as this comes out to 2.88A which seems way too high to me. So, even if the carto is now up to 1.5 ohms (it is getting on) that's still 2.41A and a warm vape. I ended up dropping the set voltage to 3.5v and got 3.45v under load and that was a better vape for me with the KBV RCT that's in it.
DC = Dual coil, SC = Single Coil
From my LT (w/ a Panasonic CGR18650CH 2250mAh batt, not fresh):
Set to Voltage, Measured voltage under load, Calculated static amperage--
Using 3.0 ohm DC carto/tank:
set 5.4v, 5.6v, 1.87A
set 5.5v, 5.7v, 1.90A
set 5.6v, 5.6v, 1.87A
set 6.0v, 5.8v, 1.93A
2.7 ohm DC carto/tank:
set 4.2v, 4.26v, 1.58A
set 4.5v, 4.6v, 1.70A
set 5.0v, 5.1v, 1.89A
set 5.3v, 5.3v, 1.96A
set 5.4v, 5.4v, 2.00A
set 5.5v, 5.4v, 2.00A
set 5.6v, 5.4v, 2.00A
Using 2.0 ohm SC carto/tank
set 4.0v, 4.02v, 2.01A
set 4.2v, 4.24v, 2.12A
set 4.3v, 4.34v, 2.17A
set 4.4v, 4.5v, 2.20A
set 4.5v, 4.6v, 2.30A
set 4.6v, 4.7v, 2.35A
set 4.7v, 4.7v, 2.35A
set 4.8v, 4.8v, 2.40A
set 5.0v, 4.8v, 2.40A
PS: The LT now has a fresh batt in it and I just threw the 1.25 ohm DC on the LT and set to 3.8v it will do 3.61v under load. 3.61v was as high, under load, as it would go. I popped the fuse in my multimeter last night so I can't double check the carto resistance as this comes out to 2.88A which seems way too high to me. So, even if the carto is now up to 1.5 ohms (it is getting on) that's still 2.41A and a warm vape. I ended up dropping the set voltage to 3.5v and got 3.45v under load and that was a better vape for me with the KBV RCT that's in it.
Last edited:
Great technical post! I applaud your ambition and persistence in posting your results. Thats great!
- Status
