Let's talk about the e-power

[naviathan]

C rating is a basis for rating the amount of power a battery CAN dump safely. Take 1000mAh with a C rating of say 5. Now, 1000mAh says that battery under ideal conditions can dish out 1A for an hour. The C rating of 5 says that something can pull 5 Amps out of that battery max (5*1000mA=5000mA or 5A), but obviously at the max pull it's going to discharge faster. The higher C rating is good because it means that you can get a coil hotter faster without damaging the battery. The only downside is the battery won't last as long as a lower C rated battery of the same mAh rating.

 

[harmonic]

well i like the higher c because i think it gives more headroom. i have noticed with my mod boxes no regulators or anything that the dual coil works better on my dual battery box than on the single even though the voltage is the same. Plus I just want to be extra sure im not going to overload the stupid things lol

say anybody know what it means when my epower light just stays on? the battery is good it works in fine in my box. when i put in epower and push the button it just stays lit for several seconds and no vapey

 

[naviathan]

Could be the center pin not making the connection. Once you release the button it stays on for a couple seconds under normal conditions.

 

[harmonic]

no this is much longer and i checked the center pin and such. change the battery it works fine idk at first i thought it was a cut off cuz of the ohm on a dual but i tried a vortank and same thing....

 

[naviathan]

Interesting, could be a bad battery.

 

[dannoman]

Thats a PCB board issue...simple fix on that is unscrew the connector and recrew it...resetting the PCB in the switch..

no this is much longer and i checked the center pin and such. change the battery it works fine idk at first i thought it was a cut off cuz of the ohm on a dual but i tried a vortank and same thing....

 

[harmonic]

yes it seems to do this to me fairly often. I just take the batt out for a sec and let it 'reset' but one battery it didnt seem to make a difference. They got mixed up again but if i come across that one again I will play with it more and see what happens. The suspect battery continues to work fine in a box mod so I just kept it in rotation...

I am haveing a problem though that the center pin in my switch has started to settle in and now sometimes has trouble connecting with some of my cartos. I have repeatedly have to mess with the center of my ce2 and maximizer and also the pin in the epower to get it working.

 

[dannoman]

I am about to place another ePower order and I'll make sure to get extra switches and put them on sale separately at a reasonable price as extra spares or if you need to replace while fiddling with something like that.

yes it seems to do this to me fairly often. I just take the batt out for a sec and let it 'reset' but one battery it didnt seem to make a difference. They got mixed up again but if i come across that one again I will play with it more and see what happens. The suspect battery continues to work fine in a box mod so I just kept it in rotation...

I am haveing a problem though that the center pin in my switch has started to settle in and now sometimes has trouble connecting with some of my cartos. I have repeatedly have to mess with the center of my ce2 and maximizer and also the pin in the epower to get it working.

 

[Noodoggy]

anyword on the 5v or VV switches? and +1 on the switches for sale separately!

 

[dannoman]

When I touch bases with them tonight I'll ask about that nodoggy...

 

[naviathan]

If it's Martinez tell him he needs to beat down some of his QA guys. My last pack of E2s were no where near the right ohms. Sent for 2.4-2.6 and got 2.8 all the way through 3.1 ohm variations. Even my epower is having a hard time with them.

 

[Traver]

Thanks for the links! so let me see if i can understand this. if i have a 1000mah battery, and the c-rate is 1, that means 1000mah can be discharged in one hour. if the c-rate is 3, then 3000mah per hour? i dont think i am getting it without some kind of formula showing me how c-rate affects how the battery works. lol thanks for any input you can give me on this. =)

I use CE cartomizers and like to vape at 5 watts to get the power for the flavor hit and smoke that satisfies me me. To get that I use a 2.6 ohm cartomizer and a battery with a working voltage of 3.7 volts.

To get 5 watts I need a battery that has a discharge rate of 1400 milliamps. For the E power I could choose an:
AW IMR 14500
Nominal Voltage : 3.7V
Capacity : 600mAH
Lowest Discharge Voltage : 2.50V
Standard Charge : CC/CV ( max. charging rate 1.5A )
Cycle Life : > 500 cycles
Max. continuous discharge rate : 8C

Here is a handy online ohm's law calculator:
Electrical & Electronics, Ohm's Law, Formulas & Equations

 

[naviathan]

I have a new found respect for our Asian brethren... If you have not tried to tear down an E2, unwind the coil, clip it down (to reduce resistance), rewind and reassemble...don't...wow...

 

[VapeSoniq]

I've never let any juice get near the button on mine. I put a bit of 3/4" shrinkwrap on the switch module, with a hole cut for the button. I left about 1/8" extra on the top and shrank it down, flush across the edge, under the threads for the cone. It makes a good seal when the cone is twisted on, looked around for rubber washers and never found that fit. I only use the cone when I drip or use tanks for standard attys.

Today my button started to stick so I tried pulling it out a bit, and eventually rotated into a position where I can push it sideways and it releases immediately when I stop pushing. I went ahead and ordered a new switch but I wish there were a way to resolve this issue more permanently. I hear about plans for an upgraded switch and all but at the very least I'd like a revision that doesn't have this issue.

Has anyone gone to town on one of these and taken one apart or atleast ripped out the button? I'm considering it at this point.

 

[naviathan]

I've ripped out the button...accidentally but immediately popped it back in place. It's just a small piece of silcone rubber.

 

[VapeSoniq]

I've ripped out the button...accidentally but immediately popped it back in place. It's just a small piece of silcone rubber.

Were you able to clean out the switch behind it and get it to function better?

 

[naviathan]

The switch behind it is a micro switch soldered on a small circuit board. There's not enough room to take it apart and clean it.

 

[proax9]

So, does anyone have some definitive info (dates) for the e-power VV switch?? (or even if it is still happening?)

 

[goodtimes]

I'm anxiously awaiting my E-Power 14650 and just finished reading through the thread. I came across these 14650 1600mAh batteries and figured I'd share. It's $7.25 shipped for 2 and they are Trustfire brand (no idea on the C-rating). There is also a 2-channel Li-Ion charger for $10.88 shipped. I'll probably be ordering the batteries myself here pretty soon.

I've ordered from this site before and everything went fine. Never had to deal with their customer service or anything, though, so I can't speak to that.

Edit: Just noticed the description of these batteries says "Unprotected design". Not sure if that's relevant to us or not...

 

[harmonic]

just as a rule of thumb its best to stay away from unprotected batteries. they are much more dangerous if not meticulously maintained and monitored...