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Now you all are making my head spin
Yeah... that's a lot of information to absorb.
Personally, I love it... I think I gravitated to the rebuildable side of vaping as much for the technical fiddling and the science behind it as the quality of the vape. Stuff like this comes naturally to me.... but I have to remind myself that not everyone gets excited about Ohm's Law and trying to figure out the physics of a how a microcoil works.
The tinkering does help to improve the vape. But it can get a little carried away at times too. But it can be fun.
I have my 28ga coming today so I will be putzing with coils over the weekend.
I have my 28ga coming today so I will be putzing with coils over the weekend.
The tinkering does help to improve the vape. But it can get a little carried away at times too. But it can be fun.
I have my 28ga coming today so I will be putzing with coils over the weekend.
I got 100' of it and haven't used any of it yet. Still depleting my stock from kidney puncher. Gonna last me foreva.
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An SVD with an 18500 battery is still nearly a half inch taller than a Provari with an 18650 battery.
Yep. Multi-button devices with vv and vw require a larger PCB and thus a separate compartment for the control head. It takes up 1/3 of the overall length of the device. It's why I'm not fond of such devices (including the Vamo) in 18650 mode. They're huge. It's also why I shrinkeded my Vamo.
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Yep. Multi-button devices with vv and vw require a larger PCB and thus a separate compartment for the control head. It takes up 1/3 of the overall length of the device. It's why I'm not fond of such devices (including the Vamo) in 18650 mode. They're huge. It's also why I shrinkeded my Vamo.
I thought of something that would make that bad boy even prettier...a sleeve around that screw. Some may like the industrialness of the bare screw threads but I think it clashes slightly (not bad). It appears you gave enough room to slip a sleeve over it. No? And maybe a countersink/counterbore using a beveled head/allen head? Might have to fatten up that collar for a counterbore setup. I can see where one can get carried away with it.
I have a question , I'm not all that familiar with mechs but I just got back from a new BM and there was a 20 something kid behind the counter vaping a k100 the battery died on him and he opened the mech slid the battery out and slapped another one in. I asked him if he was using protected batteries , no unprotected , I asked him , got a fuse or a kick in it? Nope. I asked him what ohms the coil was on the RSST . .7 ohms . I told my buddy I think this kid is holding up a pipe bomb to his face. Is there something I don't know that makes that situation acceptable ?
I thought of something that would make that bad boy even prettier...a sleeve around that screw. Some may like the industrialness of the bare screw threads but I think it clashes slightly (not bad). It appears you gave enough room to slip a sleeve over it. No? And maybe a countersink/counterbore using a beveled head/allen head? Might have to fatten up that collar for a counterbore setup. I can see where one can get carried away with it.
I have sleeves in both aluminum and brass. They look good. Ultimately I found I preferred the industrial look.
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Not acceptable at all, never use an unprotected battery in a mech especially with sub ohm coils
He shouldn't be running any battery dead let alone an unprotected one. That kid is walking the line
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Thank's Slim that's what I thought . There wasn't even a multimeter in sight and the 30 something owner was busy jawjacking with friends in the back. Just what we need , some dumbazz kid hurts himself and the media will be all over it.
Slim, that's not accurate. Unprotected are the batteries of choice for mechanical mods. They must be "safe chemistry" batteries rated for high drain. Protected batteries don't allow enough current to power mechanicals at sub-ohms. Safe chemistry batteries, like IMRs, will not ignite or explode if they should fail. They are built to "vent" gases in such an occasion. The things which cause failure in batteries are either over-charging (which most good chargers prevent) or over powering (drawing more amps than the battery can handle). The latter includes the dreaded "hard short" where the circuit is closed with no resistance whatsoever. Over draining the battery (draining below 2.2v or until it dies) is particularly bad for the battery and can greatly shorten its life. Over draining the battery will not, however, cause it to vent. Many recent battery chargers can resuscitate a dead battery by trickle charging it up to a certain level before it ramps up the amperage. The Xtar VP1 does this. Be clear, though. Protected batteries are not recommended for mechanical mods. The best batteries to use are either AW IMR, MNKE IMR, or SONY 1600mAh 30AMP (SE US18650VTC3). The SONY ones are getting a lot of praise because of the 30AMP limit and the fact that they have a very low internal resistance compared to other brands with the same C-rating. They are also built to collapse in case of failure.
Thanks X, I was thinking of safe chemistry not protected.
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Right on. Yeah, safer chemistry isn't protected. It just uses chemicals in the battery which do not create enough heat to cause an explosion or fire. Protected batteries contain a fuse circuit which prevents high amp drain.
Xfoo that's good to know, do you need any kind of fuse with IMR batteries ?
I run IMR batteries in my mech with a little Kamry fuse to guard against the hard shorts.
But most mods, mechs and apvs, often come with recommendations for IMR batteries and NOT protected, some specifically say not to use them... protection or not, they are more dangerous than IMR.
Protected batteries are just a way to sell dangerous, older generation battery technology. the safeguards are there to protect you and your device from the battery, not the other way around.
But most mods, mechs and apvs, often come with recommendations for IMR batteries and NOT protected, some specifically say not to use them... protection or not, they are more dangerous than IMR.
Protected batteries are just a way to sell dangerous, older generation battery technology.
the safeguards are there to protect you and your device from the battery, not the other way around.I don't use a safe fuse because they don't allow the sub-ohms I occasionally build. Those fuses are a good safety measure, but I believe they trigger somewhere between 6 and 8 amps. My 0.4 dual coils draw over 10 amps, so a fuse is moot. Knowledge and good batteries are the best thing to prevent hazards. Today's 30 amp bats are a better safety measure than any fuse.
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