Let's talk hardware

[Dusty_D]

And, this should double the time I get on a battery (which is awesome)

How did you reach this conclusion?

You're using a whole extra amp to power a .6 ohm coil (7amps) vs a .7 ohm coil (6amps) at 4.2v. Even at the low end of the battery at 3.7v, you're using 6.1A vs 5.2A on the same coils. That extra 1A draw is going to use up your battery life faster, if not around the same as what you're used to.

I think I've got the math right.. correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[MrPicC]

Was the flavour still good, MP? That wick/coil looks pretty bad..

Flavor was delicious till 20 minutes ago honestly. I think I need to boil this cotton. I'm sick of the first tank tasting like cotton.... At the same time I really enjoy the cotton taste sometimes. :0

tapa...talk...

 

[XfooYen]

How did you reach this conclusion?

You're using a whole extra amp to power a .6 ohm coil (7amps) vs a .7 ohm coil (6amps) at 4.2v. Even at the low end of the battery at 3.7v, you're using 6.1A vs 5.2A on the same coils. That extra 1A draw is going to use up your battery life faster, if not around the same as what you're used to.

I think I've got the math right.. correct me if I'm wrong.

I was thinking the same thing. It's going to drain the battery faster, but the vape quality should be considerably better.

A good 18650 battery rated for 20-30 amps (AW IMR 1600 mAh or MNKE IMR) will always drop from 4.2v to 3.7v very quickly. On sub-ohms, we're talking a matter of minutes. It should hold near 3.7-3.5v for the longest amount of vape time, then start dropping rapidly again.

 

[LeoRex]

How did you reach this conclusion?

Well... with the coil at 0.7 ohms, I noticed the vape tail off really quick at around 3.7 or 3.8 volts (battery). Accounting for the v-drop, that means that once I got to around 8 watts, the vape was pretty 'meh'. At 0.6 ohms, I can squeeze another 0.3v out of a battery before I hit the same level.

Then it is just a matter of looking at some of the published charts for the batteries I am using. Those extra 0.3v happen to be in the meaty part of the charge, so that should result in a pretty significant improvement in my vape time. Doing some math, at 0.7 ohms, I get about 45 drags per charge... and at 0.7 ohm that number should be 120 or so. So it might be closer to three times longer than two.

Now, some may think OMG!!! ONLY THAT MUCH?! But keep in mind that this is a REALLY strong vape.... a 4 second or so draw and I'm all set... and it is like almost drinking in vapor compared to a the single coil IGO-l sitting next to it. It isn't my ADV device.. that's the IGO-l on my Vamo... this thing is when I feel like turning it up to 11, spinal tap style, for a bit.

 

[Dusty_D]

I was thinking the same thing. It's going to drain the battery faster, but the vape quality should be considerably better.

A good 18650 battery rated for 20-30 amps (AW IMR 1600 mAh or MNKE IMR) will always drop from 4.2v to 3.7v very quickly. On sub-ohms, we're talking a matter of minutes. It should hold near 3.7-3.5v for the longest amount of vape time, then start dropping rapidly again.

Wouldn't "better" be a subjective thing though, X? He's going to be in the 25W stratosphere at those levels. Not all juices can stand to be subjected to that power from what I understand.

Leo, I hope to God that you are using "good" batteries on your Mechs. Don't be cutting corners at that level alright, bud?!

 

[LeoRex]

I was thinking the same thing. It's going to drain the battery faster, but the vape quality should be considerably better.

Kind of.... it might drain quick, but I am using more of the battery's charge range.... that more than makes up for the increased current draw. I mean... having to pull it at 3.8/3.7... like you said, the battery get's there really quick. By bumping down the resistance a little bit more, I push into the goldilocks zone where things flatten out a bit. That should make a HUGE difference without raising the peak power (on a fresh battery) too much to the point where it is too hot/harsh.

So it is a win/win.... At least in theory.

 

[LeoRex]

Wouldn't "better" be a subjective thing though, X? He's going to be in the 25W stratosphere at those levels. Not all juices can stand to be subjected to that power from what I understand.

Leo, I hope to God that you are using "good" batteries on your Mechs. Don't be cutting corners at that level alright, bud?!

Yes.... I use two different ones... AW IMR 2000s and EFest IMR 2250s...

And yes, it is up in the mid 20's, but keep in mind that this is a dual coil build. That 25 watts is spread out over two 9 wrap 1.5mm ID microcoils, so that spreads out that power even more (there's a lot of Kanthal in there)... so I have two 12.5w coils doing their thing.... that isn't nearly as crazy. I've yet to have a harsh or burnt hit and when I do pull the cotton, there isn't even a hint of burnt cotton on there... crazy enough, the cotton will rinse clean (no browning).

 

[Dusty_D]

Kind of.... it might drain quick, but I am using more of the battery's charge range.... that more than makes up for the increased current draw. I mean... having to pull it at 3.8/3.7... like you said, the battery get's there really quick. By bumping down the resistance a little bit more, I push into the goldilocks zone where things flatten out a bit. That should make a HUGE difference without raising the peak power (on a fresh battery) too much to the point where it is too hot/harsh.

So it is a win/win.... At least in theory.

Ahh.. I think I finally see what you're getting at. You're trying to get to the place where you make the most use of the batteries power zone. Well, why the hell didn't you just say so to begin with?!

 

[Dusty_D]

Yes.... I use two different ones... AW IMR 2000s and EFest IMR 2250s...

And yes, it is up in the mid 20's, but keep in mind that this is a dual coil build. That 25 watts is spread out over two 9 wrap 1.5mm ID microcoils, so that spreads out that power even more (there's a lot of Kanthal in there)... so I have two 12.5w coils doing their thing.... that isn't nearly as crazy. I've yet to have a harsh or burnt hit and when I do pull the cotton, there isn't even a hint of burnt cotton on there... crazy enough, the cotton will rinse clean (no browning).

The IMR 2000's are only rated for 10A right? It's the 1600's that have a much higher Amp rating.

How do the Efest ones compare? What are the safe Amp rating for these batteries?

 

[LeoRex]

Ahh.. I think I finally see what you're getting at. You're trying to get to the place where you make the most use of the batteries power zone. Well, why the hell didn't you just say so to begin with?!

So I ramble! Sue me. I am just going through my thought process... I spend a lot of time going back and explaining things to people, especially about technical stuff... so I sometimes overdo the whole 'show my work' thing. I used to get into trouble back in school when I would just give an answer to a problem and the teacher would call BS and say that I copied the answer... They rarely would accept the "I just figured it out in my head" excuse until I would rattle off the process... mostly to show them up.

Of course, not many of my teachers liked me (the GOOD ones did)...

The IMR 2000's are only rated for 10A right? It's the 1600's that have a much higher Amp rating.

How do the Efest ones compare? What are the safe Amp rating for these batteries?

They are similar. The max I am hitting is a little over 6, so I'm never going over 2/3 rated capacity, and even then, for short, 4 or so second draws. I haven't had a hint of any kind of thermal issues.

 

[XfooYen]

Wouldn't "better" be a subjective thing though, X? He's going to be in the 25W stratosphere at those levels. Not all juices can stand to be subjected to that power from what I understand.

Leo, I hope to God that you are using "good" batteries on your Mechs. Don't be cutting corners at that level alright, bud?!

Better is subjective, sure. But, when using dual coil drippers, since the power is distributed, it's not like vaping 25 watts on a single coil genny (which also can be good). You need that overall power to get a sufficient vape from RDAs with duals, otherwise the coils take a long time to heat and vapor production is minimal. For people who prefer lower power vaping (under 10 watts) I usually suggest using single coils as they are much more efficient. So by better, I really meant "better for a dual coil RDA". Every device is different. If I use my HH .357, I still vape at 9 watts.

 

[Iowa Gal]

OK so I have two dumb questions...but I trust my friends here to just chuckle then give me the answer
1) Are AW IMR 18490 and 18500 batteries interchangeable? (If a mod calls for 18500 can I use 18490)
2) I ordered some different gauges of wire and the packages are not marked...I own a multi meter can I test it to figure it out? If so please explain in kindergarten level terms how I would go about it. Thanks...

 

[Bronze]

OK so I have two dumb questions...but I trust my friends here to just chuckle then give me the answer
1) Are AW IMR 18490 and 18500 batteries interchangeable? (If a mod calls for 18500 can I use 18490)
2) I ordered some different gauges of wire and the packages are not marked...I own a multi meter can I test it to figure it out? If so please explain in kindergarten level terms how I would go about it. Thanks...

I'll try my best.

I had the same question about 18490/18500. They are the same. The 18 is the width in mm's. The 490 is the length (49mms). The difference between the 18490 and 18500 is the flat top vs the button top. But they are the same battery otherwise.

Yes, you can probably figure out the resistance on your wire. Test using a length of wire. One lead on one end, the other lead on the other end. Don't forget to subtract your inherent resistance on your multimeter. Take the number you get and divide by the # of inches between your lead positions. That will give you resistance per inch. Compare that to the specification to find out what gauge it is. Try googling up "Resistance per inch (or foot) for Kanthal" to see if you can find that specification. Otherwise, do you have a digital caliper? That would be easier.

 

[Bronze]

Here's a chart you can use IA...

Kanthal A1 Resistance Wire (AWG 28, 30, 32, 33 & 34 - 3 Feet)

 

[Iowa Gal]

Uh..what is a digital caliper I'll try it with my multi meter when I have a chance and if I get into trouble will let you know.Thank you my friend. I'm a little frustrated they didn't mark it, but what the heck it gives me a challenge. One unmarked is 28 and the other 32 so should see the difference.

 

[Bronze]

Uh..what is a digital caliper I'll try it with my multi meter when I have a chance and if I get into trouble will let you know.Thank you my friend. I'm a little frustrated they didn't mark it, but what the heck it gives me a challenge. One unmarked is 28 and the other 32 so should see the difference.

Definitely the 28 ga will be noticeably fatter than the 32 ga.

Digital caliper..



I'm pretty sure Home Depot or Lowes stock them. Probably around $35 or you can order from Harbor Freight for probably $25.

 

[Bronze]

Definitely the 28 ga will be noticeably fatter than the 32 ga.

Digital caliper..

View attachment 269849

I'm pretty sure Home Depot or Lowes stock them. Probably around $35 or you can order from Harbor Freight for probably $25.

IA...a caliper accurately measures things (to the thousandths of an inch). You could use it to measure the thickness of your wire and determine the ga. Sounds geeky, but I'd be lost without a caliper in my possession. It's the handiest damn thing.

 

[Iowa Gal]

Hubby would laugh at me running around the house measuring everything On a serious note...I wouldn't be surprised if we have one at the shop. I've got a heck of a lot of equipment at the shop...just don't know what to do with the majority of it.

 

[Bronze]

Hubby would laugh at me running around the house measuring everything On a serious note...I wouldn't be surprised if we have one at the shop. I've got a heck of a lot of equipment at the shop...just don't know what to do with the majority of it.

LOL!!!

IA, when you get to it, measure your resistance on your wires using your multimeter. Cut a 6" piece of wire and put the leads at the far ends. Be accurate. Tell me what you get. I can look it up and tell you the gauge.

 

[XfooYen]

Honestly, IA, if what you have is 28 and 32 gauge, it will be easy to tell which is which. The 28 gauge is twice as thick as 32 and much sturdier. You should be able to tell at a glance.

*Tapatalk*