Let's talk hardware

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Bronze

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It all depends on what you're selling. Generally people don't buy high nic stuff much (over 12mg) unless it's Pluid or something hard to find. No one will pay more than 50 cents/ml with free shipping, but usually it gets down to about 35-40 cents/ml. If juice isn't selling in a couple of days, I pull the add and try another day. When there's a lot of trading, the juice sales get shoved to the second page in a matter of minutes, so having friends willing to check in and bump helps.



I'm taking the schematics to a local machine shop to see how much it will cost to make 30 sets of those aluminum brackets. The designer put up a PDF for people to use freely, but he lives in the EU so I may make them available for Vamo owners at cost.

No idea what these parts look like. Send me a print so I can look at them. Metalwork is my career.
 

XfooYen

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No idea what these parts look like. Send me a print so I can look at them. Metalwork is my career.
The thread with pictures of the parts and finished mod is HERE. There is also a post in the thread with the schematics and a link to a Google Doc .PDF file that has all the measurements. I'm going to the local machine shop to see if I can get a prototype on the cheap. It is really the best design for an easy Vamo mod which allows for 18650 mode and sits only 2 3/4in tall. A little solder, a little glue and you're done.
 

Bronze

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The thread with pictures of the parts and finished mod is HERE. There is also a post in the thread with the schematics and a link to a Google Doc .PDF file that has all the measurements. I'm going to the local machine shop to see if I can get a prototype on the cheap. It is really the best design for an easy Vamo mod which allows for 18650 mode and sits only 2 3/4in tall. A little solder, a little glue and you're done.

I was hoping it was just a part that could be laser cut but it isn't. Definitely needs machining and our machining center is down for awhile. Is that polished stainless or (more likely) chrome plated? Can't figure out why people want to go through all that to modify something that already works. Boys will be boys. :)
 

XfooYen

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I was hoping it was just a part that could be laser cut but it isn't. Definitely needs machining and our machining center is down for awhile. Is that polished stainless or (more likely) chrome plated? Can't figure out why people want to go through all that to modify something that already works. Boys will be boys. :)

Actually all it needs is a drill press and Forstner bits for the circles and a belt sander or a hand file for rounding the edges of the piece. The designer made it using this bit kit.
 

Bronze

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Aluminum. If I get a good result and price, I'll see if they can do a black Cerakote for black Vamos. Aluminum is easier to work with and a lot lighter than stainless.

*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk*

Tell me about it!

How many do you need? I can make those easily here. Laser cut the perimeter of the base, machine the recess. Done. Wont do the soldering though.
 

XfooYen

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Tell me about it!

How many do you need? I can make those easily here. Laser cut the perimeter of the base, machine the recess. Done. Wont do the soldering though.

I was going to see if they would make me two sets to start with. I wanted to make them available to Vamo users so they can do this mod with ease (at materials cost of course). I'm headed to the machine shop now. Will report. If you get around to making any, post about it here. We can compare notes.
 

73ckn797

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I hope this can be asked here. I assume this could be considered a hardware related issue.
I have not tried dripping as of yet, well, until a few minutes ago. I have a bunch of blank cartos and 2 atty's. I pulled out the filler tank(?) and dripped 2 times on the atty, slipped the carto housing back on. Tons of vapor but not much distinguising taste. There was still some Huntsman in the atty mesh, I assume. Would a dry burn, done very carefully, be a good way to get the residual juice out? The battery I am using is automatic. It is not a 510 atty or battery but from the Choice 7's kit and stuff I initially bought.

Here are pics:
Cartridge parts.resized.jpg

atomizer-7.jpg

Since I am trying a lot of new flavors I don't want to have to keep cleaning out my clearomizers. Looking around on the forums I have seen several posts of dripping being performed this way. Using the cartos by filling with liquid does not produce results I care for, at least from this design carto. I do have at least 10 blank cartos to use and it would be easy the clean the filler material between uses.

I will eventually get some 510 attys but will use what I have until the are shot.

Any suggestions? Should this be moved to the carto threads?
 

Chakris

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Everything above the fire button is electronics, so it is pretty big. I never use my Vamo in 650 mode. The only way I'll put in an 18650 in my Vamo is when I get around to doing THIS with it.

Reminds me of Smitghe's post about using scuba tanks... but this one looks more James Bondish. :2cool:
 

XfooYen

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I hope this can be asked here. I assume this could be considered a hardware related issue.
I have not tried dripping as of yet, well, until a few minutes ago. I have a bunch of blank cartos and 2 atty's. I pulled out the filler tank(?) and dripped 2 times on the atty, slipped the carto housing back on. Tons of vapor but not much distinguising taste. There was still some Huntsman in the atty mesh, I assume. Would a dry burn, done very carefully, be a good way to get the residual juice out? The battery I am using is automatic. It is not a 510 atty or battery but from the Choice 7's kit and stuff I initially bought.

Here are pics:
View attachment 182455

View attachment 182456

Since I am trying a lot of new flavors I don't want to have to keep cleaning out my clearomizers. Looking around on the forums I have seen several posts of dripping being performed this way. Using the cartos by filling with liquid does not produce results I care for, at least from this design carto. I do have at least 10 blank cartos to use and it would be easy the clean the filler material between uses.

I will eventually get some 510 attys but will use what I have until the are shot.

Any suggestions? Should this be moved to the carto threads?

OK. First off, let's get the lingo proper. It's a little confusing, so follow along. What you have there is an atomizer (bottom pic) and a cartridge (or "cart"), not a carto. A carto, short for cartomizer is basically an atomizer which is built inside a cartridge, hence the combination of the two names cart-O-mizer, or carto for short. Now,you can certainly drip directly on that atty without using the cart but using an automatic battery is not the recommended way to power it. It would be very difficult to regulate how you're applying power. That said, you can certainly give it a go. To clean the atty, DO NOT DRY BURN IT. Just soak it in vodka or pure grain alcohol (PGA) for a couple of hours. That should clean it as much as anything is going to. You should soak the atty once a day to prevent gunk from building up. Let it air dry but don't let it completely dry out. Prime it with a little juice so the wick inside the coil stays moist. If it is (tastes) burnt, then all the cleaning in the world isn't going to remove that nastiness. Those attys aren't meant to last long at all so YMMV. Hope this helps.
 

XfooYen

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Reminds me of Smitghe's post about using scuba tanks... but this one looks more James Bondish. :2cool:

Well I paid a machinist to make the end caps. It'll be ready in a week. I bet Bronze could whip one up in a couple of hours. The measurements are all in metric and there is no access to aluminum plate in metric sizes, so modifications will have to be made on the top part. I already pulled apart one of my Vamos in anticipation. If all goes well, I'll be asking Bronze to make more because the local machine shop charges $90/hour. :shock:

That's what I get for living in L.A.
 

MostlySunny

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Tell me about it!

How many do you need? I can make those easily here. Laser cut the perimeter of the base, machine the recess. Done. Wont do the soldering though.

Now soldering I could get into. I made a radio once with my dad and I loved the soldering!

That said, I do think I lost a twist again and I am pretty sure I have no business toting around anything that costs more than the twist :)
 

Bronze

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Well I paid a machinist to make the end caps. It'll be ready in a week. I bet Bronze could whip one up in a couple of hours. The measurements are all in metric and there is no access to aluminum plate in metric sizes, so modifications will have to be made on the top part. I already pulled apart one of my Vamos in anticipation. If all goes well, I'll be asking Bronze to make more because the local machine shop charges $90/hour. :shock:

That's what I get for living in L.A.

Those things are cheap to make. I still don't see the magic to those things. Want to explain what the advantages are to having a side by side mod like that? I didn't read the thread.
 

73ckn797

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OK. First off, let's get the lingo proper. It's a little confusing, so follow along. What you have there is an atomizer (bottom pic) and a cartridge (or "cart"), not a carto. A carto, short for cartomizer is basically an atomizer which is built inside a cartridge, hence the combination of the two names cart-O-mizer, or carto for short. Now,you can certainly drip directly on that atty without using the cart but using an automatic battery is not the recommended way to power it. It would be very difficult to regulate how you're applying power. That said, you can certainly give it a go. To clean the atty, DO NOT DRY BURN IT. Just soak it in vodka or pure grain alcohol (PGA) for a couple of hours. That should clean it as much as anything is going to. You should soak the atty once a day to prevent gunk from building up. Let it air dry but don't let it completely dry out. Prime it with a little juice so the wick inside the coil stays moist. If it is (tastes) burnt, then all the cleaning in the world isn't going to remove that nastiness. Those attys aren't meant to last long at all so YMMV. Hope this helps.


"o"! That letter is what is creating the confusion. Then, I stand corrected.

I earlier posted a question (see: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizers-cartridges/381950-blank-carto-design.html), but received no feedback at all. I was going to ask the questions I posted in this thread on the previous thread, if it would have gone anywhere.
 

Bronze

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73ckn797

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That is why I asked here, having felt so welcome, and figured it would not be ignored. Ask those in the know. Automotive stuff does not relate to vaping, except the avatar Gthompson had several weeks ago of the smoking car.
Ask any dang thing you want 73. Doesn't matter what. Just ask. We'll get you answers (about e-cigging anyway).
 

XfooYen

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"o"! That letter is what is creating the confusion. Then, I stand corrected.

I earlier posted a question (see: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizers-cartridges/381950-blank-carto-design.html), but received no feedback at all. I was going to ask the questions I posted in this thread on the previous thread, if it would have gone anywhere.

I'm not familiar with that brand of e-cig you mentioned in the post. If the connector is 510 threaded, then it will work in any 510 battery. Honestly, If you have an ego (hopefully a Twist) you should invest in buying some dripping atomizers or a bunch of cartomizers to fill yourself. An inexpensive 510 bridgeless atty can go a long way if you get a good brand and blank cartomizers can be found for around $1 each if you buy in packs. The ones that ship with cig-alike kits (like your 7's) are not meant to last or for direct drippping. Just let us know what kind of vaping experience you're looking for and we'll surely lead you in the right direction.
 
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