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I swear, I replied to this an hour ago! Where'd my post go? Alrighty then.
The Vamo is insanely tall when in 18650 mode which makes it top heavy when standing and impossible to carry stealthily. The modification reduces its overall height to 3 inches in 18650 mode which is perfect for stealth. Fits in the palm of your hand like a gripper but even smaller. It also has a sturdier footprint so it's stable when standing. I think the design looks darn cool.
I'd probably have to use 1/8" alum for the top and 3/16 for the bottom. Not sure I have either and I'm not going to buy a whole sheet for a few pieces. You want them mass produced and that's my game.
I swear, I replied to this an hour ago! Where'd my post go? Alrighty then.
The Vamo is insanely tall when in 18650 mode which makes it top heavy when standing and impossible to carry stealthily. The modification reduces its overall height to 3 inches in 18650 mode which is perfect for stealth. Fits in the palm of your hand like a gripper but even smaller. It also has a sturdier footprint so it's stable when standing. I think the design looks darn cool.
Wanna go stealth just get a stick cig.
Wanna go stealth just get a stick cig.
I do. But sometimes I want to go stealth with 2000mAh. Would look nice on any table too.
*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk*
I swear, I replied to this an hour ago! Where'd my post go? Alrighty then.
The Vamo is insanely tall when in 18650 mode which makes it top heavy when standing and impossible to carry stealthily. The modification reduces its overall height to 3 inches in 18650 mode which is perfect for stealth. Fits in the palm of your hand like a gripper but even smaller. It also has a sturdier footprint so it's stable when standing. I think the design looks darn cool.
Put me down for one maybe two! That sucker looks so bad!
Only a couple questions:
1. What did the designer use on the base around the solder point and what's that green thing?
2. I think I could handle the soldering, but would be leery about cutting the tube to the right length. How did he do that and what were the measurements on tube length?
3. How is the connection end of the vamo modified before you place the top piece on so that your tanks/attys make good connection? Does it need to be cut or ground down?
4. What gauge wire is he using?
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The 7's brand does not use a 510 thread. Through much searching I finally found out it is a 301 thread which is very rare. The Atmos Raw clearo is an exact fit but they are pricey and also not readily available. I did find an adapter to use 510 on the 301 which is helping me extend the mileage of the 7's starter kit hardware. That was the biggest motivator in going with an eGo setup.
Trying to get settled in to the vaping. I do not want this to become complicated or a hobby.
Trying to get settled in to the vaping. I do not want this to become complicated or a hobby.
I think that you're going in the right direction. Can't go wrong with the eGo-C Twists and a few ViVi Nova tanks. IMO, very little hassle - great vaping.
Edit: You are certainly in the right place to get advice and/or opinions.
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I was going to poke fun at that last comment, but we'll see how you feel about vaping in a few months. The truth is, as long as it keeps you off the stinkies, it doesn't matter what you use or what you like. Vaping can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be. A $20 eGo battery and a $6 Kanger Evod is enough to keep the juice vaping without hassle. I'm pretty sure all of us made expensive mistakes when starting out, buying sub-par devices and awful juice. It's part of the journey. I must have spent $300 on vaping before I bought my first eGo, and hundreds more before I found juice vendors I could rely on for my taste. All I can say is, you're in the right place, and as long as you're not smoking, you're doing it right!
Put me down for one maybe two! That sucker looks so bad!
Only a couple questions:
1. What did the designer use on the base around the solder point and what's that green thing?
2. I think I could handle the soldering, but would be leery about cutting the tube to the right length. How did he do that and what were the measurements on tube length?
3. How is the connection end of the vamo modified before you place the top piece on so that your tanks/attys make good connection? Does it need to be cut or ground down?
4. What gauge wire is he using?
1. Any conductive positive nipple will do. It just needs to be something solid for the positive end of the bat to make contact with. The green stuff is most likely high-temp silicone gasket compound. All you need is something to isolate the connector. A thin rubber disc, cut to size and glued in place would do as well. The clear glue is likely silicone to keep everything in place and insulated.
2. Cutting the tube proved to be unnecessary for me. I pulled apart my Vamo and there is a press-fit ring which holds the two body pieces together. The ring contains the red paper isolator. I just popped the ring out and no cutting necessary.
3. No modifications to the connector. The metal (of the top bracket piece) is only 1mm thick around the connector. Tanks should sit flush without any gaps. I don't know how this will affect airflow-dependent devices. Some modification may be in store.
4. I don't know the gauge wire, but we're only talking about a maximum of 5 amps (which you would never get to). You don't need thick wire for that. I'm probably going to use 14 gauge wire and no-lead solder.
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Just pulled the trigger on a black blem Provari. Nervous about the expense, but a little tired of cheap Chinese stuff that doesn't hold up.
We got an echo in this thread.
Congrats Ice. You wont regret it. Give her a name. Mine is named Ida.
Thanks guys. Just trying to be more like GT
We want pix when you get it.
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