For an rda.... if the center post is OK.... it's pretty hard to get a short from coil legs. You would have to have a tail from the negative post coming in contact with a tail from the positive post. That takes a little effortThe other possibility is if the a positive tail is in contact with the deck or the top, with the former being the higher likelihood.
Most RDAs are pretty spaced out. It's not like a coil head for a Protank or Evod, where the positive leg is extremely close to shorting out even on a proper build. If you trim the legs relatively close to the posts once you are all tightened down, it is damn near impossible to run into shorting problems (unless a coil pops loose).
Dual coil drippers won't hard short easily, but soft shorts and arcing inside the connection terminals happen often. There are several things to consider to avoid any type of short and/or imbalance of current to your coils.
- Always make identical coils and try to install them symmetrically. Small variations in measurements can cause one coil to glow hotter than the other.
- Always check your terminals for stray pieces of Kanthal before you install. Tiny portions of wire will often get stuck inside the posts from frequent use. Before you do anything, remove the screws from the posts and have a clear look inside for bits of wire from previous builds. It occurs more often than one might think. That can cause electrical problems.
- Tighten down your terminals sufficiently. Yes, over-tightening can cut a wire, but the opposite can lead to jumpy readings and shorts. The screws can have a tendency to loosen on their own. Check them periodically while the RDA is mounted on an ohm meter. Give the screws a little snug, and you will notice your readings become more consistent with your expectations.
- The above advice is especially true with the positive terminal. Since the + post houses two leads, the wires will sometimes be positioned in such a way where current favors one more than the other. This is especially true if the wires are sandwiched by the screw rather than laying parallel. If the + screw is fastened tight enough, then wire position tends to matter less.
How does everyone fill their Kayfun 3.1s? I see a lot of folks using those green plastic things...which I don't have. Can I use a syringe and needle? I have to use 14 gauge needles due to 100% VG. Heck, HHV's needle tops won't work with 100% VG...and I couldn't even get Clay's 100% VG NETs out of his plastic bottles.I haven't even tried the 14 gauge needles I have...but I read somewhere that it's best for thick juices. Will those work?
I fill the 3.1 from the top. I never use the fill port because the fill gasket tends to get leaky very easily. Just unscrew the top. Place your thumb over the air intake hole. Fill with juice. Place the top back on (all while keeping the air hole plugged). When you feel the top o-ring begin to make contact, invert the tank. Allow the bubble in the tank to rise completely. Remove your finger from the air hole. Finish securing the top cap with the tank inverted. Flip and vape. If its a little gurgley at first, vape excess liquids by taking slow, steady pulls untill the pressure equals out.
