Let's talk hardware

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Dusty_D

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Stick with the T3's. I modify my Nova head rebuilds and they hit like a freight train. :)


What do you do with them? I still have a couple in boxes that I can tweak/test with. No problem with wicking HHV juice up to the coil? or do you keep your PV on it's side so that it feeds that way?
 

XfooYen

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So let me see if I get this right. With a coop, someone sponsors it. They collect money from members and make a big buy from a vendor who, in turn, ships the merchandise to the individual signers of the coop. Is that how it works? Is the deal set up in advance or does the originator drum up the interest (order) first and then shop it around?

Close. The coop leader is the middleman from start to finish. They contact the supplier, usually the manufacturer of the item(s) being sold, posing as a legit reseller. They establish an MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity) with the supplier in advance. The coop leader collects the orders and money from the participants, and once payments from the participants have been cleared, makes the full payment to the supplier. The supplier sends the full quantity of goods to the coop leader, who then splits everything up according to the coop order list, and sends each order individually.

Basically a coop leader is a not-for-profit online vendor.
 

Bronze

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What do you do with them? I still have a couple in boxes that I can tweak/test with. No problem with wicking HHV juice up to the coil? or do you keep your PV on it's side so that it feeds that way?

I can never get away from tilting no matter what the rebuild. I don't know anyone who can. I simply coil up a two strand wick (using 1.0mm silica) aprox 8 - 10 wraps. Then I lay a loose, stubby piece of 3.0mm cotton wick on top of the coil and secure it down with the silicone cap (that I put small notches in to prevent choking). You can remove the loose cotton and dry burn the rest. If you're ever interested and have time to monkey with your Nova's, I'll send you some pictures. Just ask. But I guess I am a proponent of "If it aint broke, don't fix it". If you're happy with your T3's I see no reason to mess with anything else. Your call.
 

Bronze

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Close. The coop leader is the middleman from start to finish. They contact the supplier, usually the manufacturer of the item(s) being sold, posing as a legit reseller. They establish an MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity) with the supplier in advance. The coop leader collects the orders and money from the participants, and once payments from the participants have been cleared, makes the full payment to the supplier. The supplier sends the full quantity of goods to the coop leader, who then splits everything up according to the coop order list, and sends each order individually.

Basically a coop leader is a not-for-profit online vendor.

Thanks X. That is nice of the coop leader to do. I wonder how he/she knows how much to charge for shipping. I see he/she will offer at least two types of shipping. RA and one other one (that is more expensive). What do you know about these shipping methods?
 

XfooYen

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Thanks X. That is nice of the coop leader to do. I wonder how he/she knows how much to charge for shipping. I see he/she will offer at least two types of shipping. RA and one other one (that is more expensive). What do you know about these shipping methods?

The cost of shipping from the supplier to the coop leader is shared evenly among the participants.

For shipping from the leader to the participants, leaders rely on priority shipping. Priority shipping is a flat rate and doesn't calculate weight. If your order fits in a small priority shipping box/bag, they charge you that. If it is too big, you get bumped to a priority medium box/bag. The cost is roughly $5.50 & $11.50 respectively.

If using PayPal, members get charged the 2.9%+$0.30 transaction fee based on their order. If they opt to use PopMoney, they are charged $0.95 per transaction (by PopMoney, not the coop leader) and no percentage fee.

You will also be charged for "incidentals" which covers the cost of packaging material. That's usually $1 per member.
 
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Dusty_D

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I can never get away from tilting no matter what the rebuild. I don't know anyone who can. I simply coil up a two strand wick (using 1.0mm silica) aprox 8 - 10 wraps. Then I lay a loose, stubby piece of 3.0mm cotton wick on top of the coil and secure it down with the silicone cap (that I put small notches in to prevent choking). You can remove the loose cotton and dry burn the rest. If you're ever interested and have time to monkey with your Nova's, I'll send you some pictures. Just ask. But I guess I am a proponent of "If it aint broke, don't fix it". If you're happy with your T3's I see no reason to mess with anything else. Your call.

I fiddled so much with the Vivi's because they look awesome on the Provari. I kept thinking, maybe this version will work better. After three failed versions, I gave up and went back to carto tanks.

This was atleast 6 months or so ago, so not sure if things have changed since then.

I'm always willing to give stuff another shot, so yeah, I would love a photo tour of what you do to make yours work. Please! :)
 

Bronze

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The cost of shipping from the supplier to the coop leader is shared evenly among the participants.

For shipping from the leader to the participants, leaders rely on priority shipping. Priority shipping is a flat rate and doesn't calculate weight. If your order fits in a small priority shipping box/bag, they charge you that. If it is too big, you get bumped to a priority medium box/bag. The cost is roughly $5.50 & $11.50 respectively.

If using PayPal, members get charged the 2.9%+$0.30 transaction fee based on their order. If they opt to use PopMoney, they are charged $0.95 per transaction (by PopMoney, not the coop leader) and no percentage fee.

You will also be charged for "incidentals" which covers the cost of packaging material. That's usually $1 per member.

Got it! Thanks.
 

smitighe

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Got it! Thanks.

The coop hosts I have found to be mostly good people. They put a LOT of work into these and help a lot of peeps out. I have been thru a few and have to say they are stand up peeps. And they also have been known to run contests during the wait for free gear. I give em major props cause I would be twitching with all that stuff to vape on. Hahaha. My aga coop the dude got the supplier to mod the AGA's to his specs (ok'd by all members) Bigger wick hole and better orings. The other one got em to include an xl tube with the tank for xl cartos. So all in all it usually a good experience.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 

PapawBrett

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Y'all make me feel like a dinosaur because I'm still rewicking 2-hole T3's with cotton string fibers. (eight strands through the wick, eight more on top). Rewicking after each fillup has kept them going longer than my Twists, 3 of the 4 are dead thanks to the rough life of a Frieghtliner. (they ain't called frieghtshakers for nuthin')
 

Bronze

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Y'all make me feel like a dinosaur because I'm still rewicking 2-hole T3's with cotton string fibers. (eight strands through the wick, eight more on top). Rewicking after each fillup has kept them going longer than my Twists, 3 of the 4 are dead thanks to the rough life of a Frieghtliner. (they ain't called frieghtshakers for nuthin')

I bought some 300 Freightliners in my career (smaller ones we mounted street sweepers on). That was back when Allison auto trans became popular (and pert near impossible to get). I have a ton of Freightliner ballcaps. Got a bunch of other crap from them too but it's all gone. This was back in late 90's/early 00's.
 

XfooYen

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Y'all make me feel like a dinosaur because I'm still rewicking 2-hole T3's with cotton string fibers. (eight strands through the wick, eight more on top). Rewicking after each fillup has kept them going longer than my Twists, 3 of the 4 are dead thanks to the rough life of a Frieghtliner. (they ain't called frieghtshakers for nuthin')

2-hole T3s? That is sooo last January. :pervy:
 

Bronze

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I fiddled so much with the Vivi's because they look awesome on the Provari. I kept thinking, maybe this version will work better. After three failed versions, I gave up and went back to carto tanks.

This was atleast 6 months or so ago, so not sure if things have changed since then.

I'm always willing to give stuff another shot, so yeah, I would love a photo tour of what you do to make yours work. Please! :)

Sorry, I missed this post Dust. I'll put something together and post it. It's simple. Just wish I had your camera and photography prowess. :)
 

Bronze

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Bronze's Vivi Nova Rebuild Tutorial



Parts...
IMG_5352_zpsb31370c9.jpg



Wick/Coil...
IMG_5361_zps55c0a89e.jpg



Wick/Coil in Atty Chassis...
IMG_5363_zpsb3e111a2.jpg



Lay cotton wick on top of coil (loose)...
IMG_5371_zps51b8af97.jpg



Notch opposite sides of silicone cap. Be sure to notch the down side of the cap...
IMG_5376_zpsbe563bc1.jpg



Complete. Hits like a freight train and I get full flavor. Just my opinion, YMMV...
IMG_5378_zps7eafd2fc.jpg
 
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Bronze

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SO your saying the remade wicks you make are better then the stock ones? I still won't use em but I might give it a try and redo my girls .. Hers is filled with dragonsblood and no joke the flavor is cut in half at the minimum. Dragonsblood is fullllll of flavor so it's sad..

Yes...in a word. But, just my opinion and worth what you paid for it.
 
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