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No, I don't wear gloves when vaping. Silly. 
The copper is already starting to slowly change color again, which is fine. At least my hands aren't dirty after 30 minutes of use. Short of using gold or platinum, this copper conducts really well. It's worth an extra hand washing now and then.
I *think* I'm about done buying RBA's and RDA's, a nimbus clone and an IGO-W are on the way. I'm liking Protanks for on the go, and trimming the wicks after a rebuild takes me the same amount of time as wrapping the coil, crazy fast. 3 of those should last me a while. I'll need more heads, or even better, a bunch of grommets they use and I'll be all set. I've got wick and coil out the wazoo. If BD13 ever shows up I will be all over that though.
I have come to the conclusion that all the VV/VW APV's have basically the same chip and rattlesnake effect. I'm fine with that, but since I don't own a Provari I have nothing to compare it to. As much as I like VW, I don't change atty's often. Future vaping funds have been re-allocated!
x 10000?
It will take at least 3 months to obtain the necessary funds with a $40 a month juice budget. If my conclusions are off base I could always use some advice.
The copper is already starting to slowly change color again, which is fine. At least my hands aren't dirty after 30 minutes of use. Short of using gold or platinum, this copper conducts really well. It's worth an extra hand washing now and then.
I *think* I'm about done buying RBA's and RDA's, a nimbus clone and an IGO-W are on the way. I'm liking Protanks for on the go, and trimming the wicks after a rebuild takes me the same amount of time as wrapping the coil, crazy fast. 3 of those should last me a while. I'll need more heads, or even better, a bunch of grommets they use and I'll be all set. I've got wick and coil out the wazoo. If BD13 ever shows up I will be all over that though.
I have come to the conclusion that all the VV/VW APV's have basically the same chip and rattlesnake effect. I'm fine with that, but since I don't own a Provari I have nothing to compare it to. As much as I like VW, I don't change atty's often. Future vaping funds have been re-allocated!
x 10000? It will take at least 3 months to obtain the necessary funds with a $40 a month juice budget. If my conclusions are off base I could always use some advice.
No, I start with a slightly longer wick because it let's me pinch it along with the paperclip while I wrap the coils tight. Then I leave the paper clip along with the wick and coil and insert into the smaller head section, put the little head together, slide the paper clip out and clip the wicks along the curve of the head. That way it fits perfectly into the base section.
I don't bother testing for shorts, or ohms because after having re-built them so many times (I rebuild my heads every 2 - 3 days), I know they will come out in a 2.1 - 2.2 ohm range. I don't do cleanings or dry burns. Takes the same amount of time to rebuild and replace with a new coil.
Thanks guys! Happy Birthday MP! Didn't know it was today, I haven't been on Facebook in awhile. Hope you have a good one buddy
I need to reward the coil on this thing. Right now it's at 2.2 but I want it to be around 1.5
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I need to reward the coil on this thing. Right now it's at 2.2 but I want it to be around 1.5
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Thanks ED. How'd you know?
Thanks MW..
I was gonna get a richman for my birthday but sadly my car is costing a lot more then I wanted and my lady is paying for it..
Thanks MW..
I was gonna get a richman for my birthday but sadly my car is costing a lot more then I wanted and my lady is paying for it..
Happy Birthday MrPicC! Facebook informed me, or I would have missed it.
I wouldn't jump the gun on a RichMan's yet, the maker says he'll have other finishes available in the near future. I don't know if it's from the matte finish inside the top cap, but the air hole weeps e-liquid now and then. Many people have posted this, and I've noticed it too. I don't know if I'll bother polishing the inside of the cap, that's going to be a bit tricky. I'll try drilling the air hole out from 1mm to 1.5mm first, but I suspect the finish has something to do with it. E-liquid, or Vg in my case, tends to bead up on polished SS, but on the matte finish it spreads out. A matte finish is also easy to scratch. Unless you have a PV to match the matte finish like Slim does, I would wait for the new stuff to come out.
I wouldn't jump the gun on a RichMan's yet, the maker says he'll have other finishes available in the near future. I don't know if it's from the matte finish inside the top cap, but the air hole weeps e-liquid now and then. Many people have posted this, and I've noticed it too. I don't know if I'll bother polishing the inside of the cap, that's going to be a bit tricky. I'll try drilling the air hole out from 1mm to 1.5mm first, but I suspect the finish has something to do with it. E-liquid, or Vg in my case, tends to bead up on polished SS, but on the matte finish it spreads out. A matte finish is also easy to scratch. Unless you have a PV to match the matte finish like Slim does, I would wait for the new stuff to come out.
I'm going to have to watch for juice seeping out. So far I haven't noticed any. Vaping 100% Vg Bobas but it hasn't had much use yet.
Let me know how it is after you drill it out
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Let me know how it is after you drill it out
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Got my Richman today
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That looks real sharp, MwSlim!!!
I'm posting this because a couple peeps wanted to see it. It's a modded Sigelei #19 (with matching AGA-T2) which I intend to sell in the near future. What I did to it was: I flattened the top cap (removed the chamfer) and polished all parts to a high shine. I removed both stock magnets. I replaced the positive connector with an all-brass #6 bolt and slotted the pin end for air flow and to allow for external adjustment using a screwdriver. I tapped the brass cup (which once held a magnet) and threaded it with a #6 brass bolt. I flattened the top of the bolt to allow for maximum battery contact. I custom cut a piece of brass sheet to fit inside the switch which maintains a negative ground with the housing. This eliminates any misfires. I replaced the stock button spring with a custom wound copper hot spring. I reduced the button throw to around 1-2mm and lightened the tension. It's buttery smooth. When all the contacts are freshly cleaned, I measure a 0.37v voltage drop on a 0.7ohm coil using an 18350 battery. That's impressive. After all that, I baked the battery tube and the locking ring in the oven at 600 degrees for an hour to get an even light yellow bronze finish. I did the same to the AGA-T2 base and top cap. It will be sold as a set. Here's the pix.
Here's what it looks like stock:
Here's what it looks like stock:
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Happy Birthday MrPicC!
I just added two RichMan tanks to my shopping cart, now I have to wait till the 25th to pay for them. I'm disappointed that they don't ship to Thailand - they have several Asian countries except Thailand!!! Which means I have to send it to my daughter then wait for a mule to deliver it. Bummed, slightly.
AND THAT'S IT!!!!! I am not buying any more gear till my birthday in Sept. I should have enough coils, wire, silica & mesh to make it till then and then some. Got save up for that provari!!! I probably have enough juice to last till then as well, but I won't risk running out of that.
EDIT: I know, famous last words! Bwuahahaha
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I'm posting this because a couple peeps wanted to see it. It's a modded Sigelei #19 (with matching AGA-T2) which I intend to sell in the near future. What I did to it was: I flattened the top cap (removed the chamfer) and polished all parts to a high shine. I removed both stock magnets. I replaced the positive connector with an all-brass #6 bolt and slotted the pin end for air flow and to allow for external adjustment using a screwdriver. I tapped the brass cup (which once held a magnet) and threaded it with a #6 brass bolt. I flattened the top of the bolt to allow for maximum battery contact. I custom cut a piece of brass sheet to fit inside the switch which maintains a negative ground with the housing. This eliminates any misfires. I replaced the stock button spring with a custom wound copper hot spring. I reduced the button throw to around 1-2mm and lightened the tension. It's buttery smooth. When all the contacts are freshly cleaned, I measure a 0.37v voltage drop on a 0.7ohm coil using an 18350 battery. That's impressive. After all that, I baked the battery tube and the locking ring in the oven at 600 degrees for an hour to get an even light yellow bronze finish. I did the same to the AGA-T2 base and top cap. It will be sold as a set. Here's the pix.
Here's what it looks like stock:
Ok that thing is sex! Great job!!!
So I have a question about Mech Mods. I have been thinking about getting one lately, but I only know 2 things about them. There's no protection, and most of them look cool as hell.
When I am picking one out is there anything else I need to keep in mind? Or does any one have suggestions of a brand to go with? I really like the idea of having one that telescopes, one of the big reasons I like Mech mods is because you can get them really small and typically at good prices.
I seem to favor the styles that have grooves in them like the k100 and the Sigelei #29.
I have just been itching to get another Mod lately and with my Birthday coming up I feel I have a good excuse, but I need to stick to a budget (or I would just get a provari mini and call it a day).
The other Mod I was looking at was a Sigelei Zmax mini (yeah I know its not mech) I found one for around $50 - $60 price range if I remember correctly.
Thanks in advance for any advice yall can offer.
When I am picking one out is there anything else I need to keep in mind? Or does any one have suggestions of a brand to go with? I really like the idea of having one that telescopes, one of the big reasons I like Mech mods is because you can get them really small and typically at good prices.
I seem to favor the styles that have grooves in them like the k100 and the Sigelei #29.
I have just been itching to get another Mod lately and with my Birthday coming up I feel I have a good excuse, but I need to stick to a budget (or I would just get a provari mini and call it a day).
The other Mod I was looking at was a Sigelei Zmax mini (yeah I know its not mech) I found one for around $50 - $60 price range if I remember correctly.
Thanks in advance for any advice yall can offer.
Has anyone used this ? I have never heard of such a thing before. I am not even sure what it is that I am looking at.
I am a die hard carto tank user.
DS3 Multi-Configuration Tank System
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Recommending a mech is greatly dependent on your desired application and your current PV experience level. There are several things to consider when purchasing a mech, all of which are important. I will list what I consider "important" when buying a mech.
1) Quality - This is paramount. Build quality ensures that the mod is electrically sound and optimally conductive. Is the firing switch built well? Are the battery contacts made from a known conductive material (brass or silver plated), or not (stainless steel or chromed metal)? Is the body made from quality material? Are the threads machined properly? If there is a spring used as part of the connection, is it made from conductive material (copper, brass, or silver plated)? Is the spring a "hot" spring which will add battery failure protection? Is the 510 connector made from the same quality materials? Some electrical knowledge should be acquired. Know about battery quality, battery amp limits (C rating), ohms vs wattage vs voltage, proper care and maintenance of electrical contacts, voltage drop; the list can go on. The only thing that can counter these considerations is one's ability and willingness to modify a given mech to fit these standards. The Sigelei #19 was inexpensive for sure, but it was crap out of the box. The modifications I made to it were necessary in order to make it a safer and more efficient mod. In the mech mod world, you get what you pay for. A mod bought for under $100 will require some kind of modification 90% of the time. The Sigelei line of mechs are generally found for under $40. Most of them need complete overhauls. A $200 mod is going to have all these considerations thought through, usually because they are hand built by "modders" and not factory made in China.
2) Reputation - I won't spend more than $30 on a mod unless I know what I'm getting into. I watch review videos and read the pertaining forum threads before any purchase. I knew all the modifications which needed to be done to the Sigelei before it hit my doorstep. Conversely, I spent $400 on a Nemesis and a Poldiac yesterday based on reputation alone. I know those mods are some of the best made and will require no modification. This brings me to the next consideration.
3) Cost - Mech mods range in price from $30 (your Sigeleis and your Smoktechs) to the mid $100s (The EA Mod, The Dingo, The Paps, The Roller, and many Philippine made devices to name a few) to the $200 range (the GG, Nemesis, Chi You, Poldiac, Bear Brass, etc.) and the collectible items which usually have year-long wait lists and resell in the $$400-$500 range (Caravella). As I stated before, you get what you pay for. If you're only using mechs for dripping or carto-tanks, then there is no reason to break the bank, but if you're getting heavy into rebuildables and high-end attys, it's a good idea to spend some cash on your battery device first. Which leads me to the next.
4) Application - What am I using this for? Do I need an all day "beater" which can take bumps and scratches without a worry? Am I looking to get into sub-ohm genesis building? Do I want something I will only keep at home and give me the best vape possible? Do I want a conversation piece? Am I using cartos and clearos? Am I dripping or rebuilding? Do I need something to act as "training wheels" before I invest in a $200 mod? Only you can decide these things, but they will help in your decision. Don't spend $150 on a mech if you don't know if you're going to enjoy the experience. Don't spend big bucks on a mod if all you're going to use is clearos and carto tanks on it. On the other hand, don't get a cheap mod if you're going to get heavily into rebuildables or high-end attys.
5) Aesthetics - It's the least important thing to consider, but obviously if you don't like how it looks, you're not going to use it. Make sure you really appreciate the aesthetics. It usually comes down to details. Button placement, logos, finish, flat top vs. chamfered top, raised or recessed 510 connector, air slits on the cap vs adjustable air flow holes on the side vs no air flow to the connector, drip well or none, telescoping vs modular, grooves, engravings, colors, on and on and on.
Mechs are simple devices, but my experience has shown me that they require the most thought before purchase. I hope you find what you're looking for. PM me if you want to ask about a specific mod or have a question. The best place to browse for information is the APV Discussion Forum here at ECF. You will surely find good information there.
Got my new 400 mesh today for the AGA-T+. Tried a new wick and it's no good. Either it would register no resistance or it was 5 -7 ohms if I wiggled it around just right. Tried another one...same thing. Went back to my first wick that worked (but was poor performing) and getting the same thing. All I did was bore the wick hole out from .100 to .125. It's a piece of shlt. Walking away for awhile.
XfooYen, I think this statement best describes me. For now I will likely use a Protank or Maybe a carto tank, but most likely a protank. I will eventually get in to rebuildables but I am taking baby steps right now and I'm still learning about everything.
This is some awesome Info Thanks for all this! You Rock!
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