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Lost Vape Therion DNA75 Squonker

Discussion in 'Liquid Feed APV Discussion' started by inswva, Aug 2, 2016.

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  1. kiba

    kiba Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 21, 2012
    Alexandria, Va, USA
    I know the thread. I can't be reading the whole thing though and I don't really need any more info about temp control, I get by fine.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  2. kiba

    kiba Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 21, 2012
    Alexandria, Va, USA

    I can post some csv's for commonly used materials (430, 316L, NiFe52 etc) that way you can just use it and not worry about it... what's a good file-hosting that this forum allows?
     
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  3. Sloth Tonight

    Sloth Tonight CF Moderator Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Jun 25, 2014
    Adirondacks
    I downloaded the zip you linked to from steam engine. I just haven't messed with escribe yet. I keep meaning to try it out as is on the mod in the meantime, but keep forgetting until after I hit it and mess up the ohms. Lol.

    When you vape it dry, is there a dry hit taste at all, or just...no vapor?
     
  4. cigatron

    cigatron Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    May 14, 2014
    clinton ar
    Join the crowd. I still do that sometimes.

    If everything is set up correctly then as you begin running out of juice you won't notice anything except diminishing vapor output. If you keep trying to vape it you'll notice a change in flavor along with a further reduction in vapor output. At some point you're flavor will tail off drastically and a dry-ish hit may happen but with no burny taste and no ruined wicks.
    This is assuming that you're not normally tc vaping at really high temps, like over 470°f . If you do vape at 470+ you may notice a slight burny edge to your vape as an indicator that your tank is dry.
    The above references to 470°f depends on wire quality and either manual tcr settings or which csv file you are using. If either is off then your temp display will read incorrectly but the warning signs of wicks drying out will still be evident.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Sloth Tonight

    Sloth Tonight CF Moderator Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Jun 25, 2014
    Adirondacks
    Lol, set my wick on fire trying to learn TC and it partially melted the peek insulator on the Hadaly...washed it off, hoping its ok to rewick and vape :unsure:
     
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  6. Sloth Tonight

    Sloth Tonight CF Moderator Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Jun 25, 2014
    Adirondacks
    I ordered spare insulators...needs replaced. No prob. Got another Hadaly to rock in the meantime.

    My mod is leaking, juice is collecting at the very top of the door, its on the inside of the door where it perches above the squonk tube. Any ideas? Maybe because I am using an oring so the mod doesnt bottom out?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. kiba

    kiba Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 21, 2012
    Alexandria, Va, USA
    My ones have increased accuracy in the 300F-500F range, just say the word and I'll post some... If I can find a file hosting this forum allows.
    Yeah I know exactly what you're talking about... that happened to me when I first got mine and screwed in an atty with a really long 510, I should have stopped at the first sign of resistance but I kept threading it down... :/ I had to take the 510 apart and reseat the bottom part. No issues since though I pretty much only use the narda on it, I do have a hadaly but only used it a couple of times, mine was leaking a bit out the air holes when I'd have it on its side, and I like that the narda design prevents that.

    This thing is my daily beater so I keep with the simplicity.
     
  8. Sloth Tonight

    Sloth Tonight CF Moderator Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Jun 25, 2014
    Adirondacks
    Is taking the 510 apart and reseating a straight forward process?
     
  9. kiba

    kiba Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 21, 2012
    Alexandria, Va, USA
    Yeah, if I remember right it's just 3 screws but I could be wrong, someone had pics of how to fully disassemble it but I only needed the squonk assembly out... that happens if the bottom part of the assembly gets overextended by a long 510 pin, and it pushes out on the plastic part of the frame... like when I first got mine the only squonkable atty I had was one with a really long pin, I haven't used that atty since but I haven't seen any leaking... the other few I've used on it, narda, odis, hadaly, iai etc. all have short to average 510's though.

    But I could def. feel it happen when I did it, like I felt the resistance but just kept threading it down anyways.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. Highwayman1224

    Highwayman1224 Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 9, 2012
    Goodyear, AZ
    Mine leaks too and it pisses me off!! Hardly ever use it now.

    Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
     
  11. cigatron

    cigatron Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    May 14, 2014
    clinton ar
    Mine leaks a little too. Can't seem to find where exactly the source of the leak is. The hose fits good and is pushed all the way up onto the nipple. The 510 is looking suspect.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. kiba

    kiba Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 21, 2012
    Alexandria, Va, USA
    If it all gets pushed apart again you have to take it apart again and re seat the thing.

    But if you keep using a long 510 it'll keep happening
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Sloth Tonight

    Sloth Tonight CF Moderator Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Jun 25, 2014
    Adirondacks
    Well I've got TC working fairly well with a steam engine CSV for my 316l and it's pretty amazing I must say. I haven't had a touch of a dry hit and I've vaped the wick fairly dry, to the point where far less vapor was being produced and it felt weak, but no off-taste really to speak of. Furthermore I was trying to do a quick pulse of my coils between re-wicking this morning and it literally wouldn't do it in temp mode (I only pushed it to like 480 or 500 though). I had to switch to power mode to do that and switch back. Pretty amazing.

    It kicks some serious flavor and I like being able to have the flavor so consistent, regardless of how my draw is. Honestly, TC is awesome.
     
    • Like Like x 3
  14. cigatron

    cigatron Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    May 14, 2014
    clinton ar
    Hey congrats sloth! Welcome to the best game in town.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  15. markfm

    markfm Aussie Pup Wrangler Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Could someone provide dna75 specific sample ss316l profiles?

    I'd like to give TC another try, but the samples I've seen seen to have power levels from different mods and temps that were kind of high.

    Thanks!

    (On a sad note, it looks like LV is still using the wonky fire button in the new Drone, prone to latching. )
     
  16. cigatron

    cigatron Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    May 14, 2014
    clinton ar
    Not sure I understand Mark, power levels and temp are adjustable and completely separate from a material csv file. Also, csv files are not mod specific, they work the same on all dna mods.
    You can download the csv for 316L from steam engine and adjust the power and temp as needed. Temperature is subjective, each person likes a different temp setting but the power setting needs to be higher than needed to reach your set temp eg. If you have an atty that vapes well with 316ss at 40w in power mode then set your power to 50w or so when using tc.
     
  17. markfm

    markfm Aussie Pup Wrangler Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    The sample profiles I've seen, when I pull them up in escribe, have power set to 133w, temp up around 530f.

    My two prior tries with TC on dna75, on an SDNA and the Therion bf, were miserable. I'm confident that the mods are functional, but between the bad initial TCR values and not having a feel for rational starting values for Max watts, ramp up watts, and target temp, I gave up in frustration.

    When I vape vw, I use 0.5 ohm twisted 26 kanthal, at around 24w. If I switch to single wire 26awg 316l, the resistance will probably be about 0.4+ ohms at room temperature. What's a rational set of ramp up power, max power, and temperature to get a moderately warm vape, if I find the ss316l coil also nice in the mid to upper 20 watts zone?

    (It's frustrating because I haven't yet seen any clean set of starter parameters to work from. I can look at numbers and know when something is way off of what I would use (power higher than the mod can go to, temp higher than feels right), but without something at least in the ballpark it's too much hassle with nothing to show for it.)
     
  18. cigatron

    cigatron Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    May 14, 2014
    clinton ar
    If you're liking your 26g 316SS build at say 25-30w in power mode then a good starting power level and preheat level for TC would be around 40w. The mod will turn down the power as needed to maintain your set temp.
    As a general rule I run my power levels in TC mode at 20% higher power levels than I do in power/watts mode when using SS. Better to have too much power than too little, otherwise your coil may never reach your set temp.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. markfm

    markfm Aussie Pup Wrangler Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Thank you - so I should try both pretty settings at 40w.

    What is s reasonable target temperature?
     
  20. cigatron

    cigatron Vaping Master ECF Veteran

    May 14, 2014
    clinton ar
    On new builds I start at 350°f expecting it to be too cool and then work my way up from there. I usually end up in the 400-450° range when I get a warm enough vape.
     
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