I wouldn't say it was an issue. I would say it was a design choice that was made. You would probably save a wee bit of battery power by not continually update the battery level.
- Status
I wouldn't say it was an issue. I would say it was a design choice that was made. You would probably save a wee bit of battery power by not continually update the battery level.
Mail's in - received my DNA20 today. Fast, 2 days. It will probably take me a while before I get anything finished - I am making a tube mod from scratch, so there will be a lot of planning and lathe work to be done. I'm really not sure where to start, yet - probably just bench wire and test it out first. Then I'll try to figure out how to lay it all out. I would really love to get the stainless tube chromed (I love chrome, even with the finger prints!) to match my chrome Provari. I'd also like to match the tube diameter and threading so I could use the Provari's end cap, and not have to machine one from scratch.
Thanks for the board dimension .pdf, Bapgood, that should help when trying to place the button holes and such.
Thanks for the board dimension .pdf, Bapgood, that should help when trying to place the button holes and such.
If your using stainless there should be no need to chrome, just mirror polish the stainless. Shouldn't be to bad if you have access to a lathe.
breaktru,
Did you solder the replacement screen to the pcb? I was thinking about using some ribbon cable to extend the display cable, but that looks like a pita to solder.
Way off topic....I know you have done some zmax repair work....Is the top of the zmax removable? If so how?
Did you solder the replacement screen to the pcb? I was thinking about using some ribbon cable to extend the display cable, but that looks like a pita to solder.
Way off topic....I know you have done some zmax repair work....Is the top of the zmax removable? If so how?
Yes, I removed the screen off the 1st defective board and soldered it to the 2nd board which I had broken the screen on. I wouldn't do that to a perfectly good board. A chances of damage is possible. The soldering of the ribbon cable on the screen side may damage the oLed. See: Soldered oLED
I have photos and a video on removing the top cap at: ZMAX - How To Remove Top Cap For Repair
I think I have chickened out....but was thinking I would just solder the ribbon cable to the existing ribbon cable and to the pcb
It wasn't fun. The ribbon spacing is tight. Used the drag solder technique. Watch out for shorts between connections and use a temp controlled iron set low.
After looking at it a lot closer now that I have it. I would suggest putting a small piece of thread and looping it through the 2 holes on either side of the screen ribbon on the circuit board to make double sure that the ribbon does not come off if anyone is worried about it breaking at that point. On my mine there are two miniscule holes that go through the ribbon and circuit board from the front to the back. A very thin sewing thread would be enough to go through the hole and give extra protection.
Breaktru Very true it is a non issue now that I have gotten used to it. I have had zero problems with mine so far.
Threw one together this morning, about 2 hours to get it all done. The DNA20 seems a bit more mellow than that Darwin or DNA12, but vapes really nice. A lot of power in such a little device. With a 2 ohm coil in the Zen it got to about 18.5W which is way more than I will use. I like it around 12.5 or so for most things.
I do wish the ribbon cable were a little longer tho, had a hard time with it. Its pretty delicate too, next one I'll plan for it a little better. This one was just thrown into a case taken from another mod I don't use anymore just to see how the DNA20 works.
I do wish the ribbon cable were a little longer tho, had a hard time with it. Its pretty delicate too, next one I'll plan for it a little better. This one was just thrown into a case taken from another mod I don't use anymore just to see how the DNA20 works.
I bet I'm the first one to start their DNA20 on fire I will get some pics and give a better description of what happened....but I think anyone hard wiring in a lipo should think about some kind of an emergency power disconnect....and a lipo sack to have handy when building/working on their mod.
BTW...the DNA20 still works
I will get some pics and give a better description of what happened....but I think anyone hard wiring in a lipo should think about some kind of an emergency power disconnect of some kind....and a lipo sack to have handy when building/working on their mod.
BTW...the DNA20 still works
Still glad I waited to buy a battery here....
Still glad I waited to buy a battery here....
It had nothing to do with the battery....but the DNA20 was wired and setting on top of the 6000mah battery. I was worried I was going to have a chain reaction and have the lipo go up. I have seen that happen and didn't want it happening in my basement workroom.
I will get some pics and give a better description of what happened....but I think anyone hard wiring in a lipo should think about some kind of an emergency power disconnect....and a lipo sack to have handy when building/working on their mod.
BTW...the DNA20 still works
Whoa! I told the wife while it was charging to just throw it out in the back yard if she saw smoke.
What happened?
well.... whatever happened, I am glad you and your DNA are ok....
Please share details when you get a chance, you may save an idiots life..... (Me)
Please share details when you get a chance, you may save an idiots life..... (Me)
I had this piece foam attached about like this....the foam has adhesive on one side holding it into place.
The foam was in the way so i pulled it off....it didn't seem really stuck and came pretty easy. Just as I pulled it off all hell broke loose with a mini electrical fire until the missing component fell off the board.
But because everything was soldered in and tight I could only barely move the DNA20 a smidge of the battery. I was just reaching for the wire cutters when things calmed down.
while I sat there stewing in my poo and catching my breath and thoughts, I noticed the display was still on and showing "To Hot" after a few seconds it went back to normal.
During the chaos I was wishing I had way to quickly and easily disconnect the power.
Here are what the lipo bags look like....I don't think they are to much money...and they are supposed to contain a lipo fire....I will now have permanently at the work bench.
The foam was in the way so i pulled it off....it didn't seem really stuck and came pretty easy. Just as I pulled it off all hell broke loose with a mini electrical fire until the missing component fell off the board.
But because everything was soldered in and tight I could only barely move the DNA20 a smidge of the battery. I was just reaching for the wire cutters when things calmed down.
while I sat there stewing in my poo and catching my breath and thoughts, I noticed the display was still on and showing "To Hot" after a few seconds it went back to normal.
During the chaos I was wishing I had way to quickly and easily disconnect the power.
Here are what the lipo bags look like....I don't think they are to much money...and they are supposed to contain a lipo fire....I will now have permanently at the work bench.
Last edited:
- Status
