Thanks for the kind words slim. I'm glad to help anywhere I can, and this sure seems like a hot topic these days, and understandably so.
Maxx Fusion Cartomizer Autopsy and Parts Explenation
- Thread starter Rift
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Thanks for the kind words slim. I'm glad to help anywhere I can, and this sure seems like a hot topic these days, and understandably so.
Maybe it is just me, they use silicone in cookware, it might not be all that bad. It has a fairly high melting/combustion point, so it maybe safe to use.
The batting is something altogether different, it has me concerned a bit.
Thanks Frick I took a few digital photo classes back in school. I didn't use a tripod for any of this and with the exception of a few of the picture, most were shot with my canon 40D. I'm no pro but when I need to I can pick up a camera.
In regards to the silicone o-ring I would say under normal operating conditions (that means for the time being a BMF battery) this isn't a huge issue because depending on the silicone used it can take the heat without issue. I would love to see if anyone with the BMF batteries has singed or melted o-rings though.
The burnt polyfill I can't really comment on its not great but id say its far less worse then a normal cigarette. I think with the current configuration for the cartomizer they have gotten that burning down to the absolute least possible, and if you refill your cartos constantly I don't think even what you see in my images will happen.
Last edited:
So the o-ring isn't a ring at all but glue applied, apparently at different levels of thickness, to the two split halves of the inner casing at the bottom. What is that inner casing made out of? It looks like a woven material.
For some reason I though this
was a split o-ring but now I can see it is just the purposefully split inner core of woven material.
For some reason I though this
was a split o-ring but now I can see it is just the purposefully split inner core of woven material.
yeah, mine look like the pic above.
in my OPINION this is a pretty complicated design, sure leaves a lot of room for error and inconsistency. Although I could be completely wrong... its been known to happen occasionally.
I do have 14 packs of 5 sitting here, and I have no problem using every last one. I may not refill them 10 times each, but I will atleast twice before pitching. They perform well, and are cheap, so if I get 2-3 refills each before any burning occurs, im happy.
in my OPINION this is a pretty complicated design, sure leaves a lot of room for error and inconsistency. Although I could be completely wrong... its been known to happen occasionally.
I do have 14 packs of 5 sitting here, and I have no problem using every last one. I may not refill them 10 times each, but I will atleast twice before pitching. They perform well, and are cheap, so if I get 2-3 refills each before any burning occurs, im happy.
Last edited:
So the o-ring isn't a ring at all but glue applied, apparently at different levels of thickness, to the two split halves of the inner casing at the bottom. What is that inner casing made out of? It looks like a woven material.
For some reason I though this
was a split o-ring but now I can see it is just the purposefully split inner core of woven material.
Correct. As to what the casing is made of that I don't know. That and what the adhesive is exactly are my 2 blanks for Leaford to fill in since hes at the factory where this stuff is being assembled. Ill ask around a little if anyone might know but a more definitive answer will have to come from Leaford.
Rift,
I have a question. My eyes are not what they use to be. But would you say the material that is in the coil of the atty the same or different then what is the center tube?
I have a question. My eyes are not what they use to be. But would you say the material that is in the coil of the atty the same or different then what is the center tube?
Id say there different. The material inside the coil is more fibrous then the material the inner casing is made of. I took a knife and cut up a bit of the inner casing, it is woven but the material keeps it shape much better then the material inside the coil. It also doesn't break down as much.
Yes glue isn't great. Attomizers don't get "that' hot compared to an open flame
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...test-electrial-properties-different-mods.html
the only test I know of failed to break 163F and that was based off of a much higher wattage than the bloog will put out.
The glue doesn't appear burnt in any of the pictures only the woven core (possibly) and the o-ring sleeve where it looks like the heating element touched it in the other thread, and the polly fill in your post is sadly burnt looking. Were these done using a maxx fusion battery?
Yep these have been used on only maxx fusion batteries. Of the 3 cartomizers that I have taken apart the only burning I have seen was in 2 of them and they were both in that second layer of polyfill 1 had slight singing in the first layer.
A CANON MAN! The 40D is a very capable camera. I shoot an old 5D myself, but I'm a huge fan of full-frame cameras. I shot film for many years ages ago, so the sensor size, lens lengths and depth-of-field all make a lot more sense to me on full-frame.
Anyway, this has me a bit less worried than I was from the images in the other thread.
How do you figure you burned the polyfill? Did you vape the carto completely dry, or is that with normal usage. I have a carto that I can tell is on its last legs, so I'm going to dissect it tomorrow when I'm under the influence of adult beverages a bit less than I am right now.
Thanks again for the work and nice images.
I just bought my wife a 60D, it seems nice, she is happy, so that's all that matters right?
I'm probably going to get one just for video.
DSLR video is fantastic, and I can use the ~$2500 in lenses I own on it.
I've pretty much stayed away from both this thread and the other one on the same topic. Because most of it I know nothing about. But seriously, neither do most of you. I do know one thing. It takes an insanely high temperature for silicone to burn. I looked it up to get the exact degree, and silicone burns at 2,577.2 degrees Fahrenheit.
Another thing I'd like to mention, Bloog is a small business. Run by some really nice people. I'm sure they aren't trying to harm anyone. But all these constant repeated posts could very well hurt them. I understand the concern. And yes almost everyone is being very civil, and we do have a right to know if this stuff could hurt us. But to constantly go on and on. Guys, give them a chance to answer. Right now, I'm not sure I would want to come on here. It's like there's a lynch mob or something. There's enough information now. How about we back off a bit and let them answer?
Another thing I'd like to mention, Bloog is a small business. Run by some really nice people. I'm sure they aren't trying to harm anyone. But all these constant repeated posts could very well hurt them. I understand the concern. And yes almost everyone is being very civil, and we do have a right to know if this stuff could hurt us. But to constantly go on and on. Guys, give them a chance to answer. Right now, I'm not sure I would want to come on here. It's like there's a lynch mob or something. There's enough information now. How about we back off a bit and let them answer?
Hehehe yup Canon for me alwayss.
I don't actually vape or smoke. I just did a bunch of research for my folks to get them of cigarettes. I checked in with them and they have been vaping the cartomizers till the flavor starts getting weak. At that point they switch to a new cartomizer. So I wouldn't say they vape it totally dry. The prefilled ones don't seem to be completely consistent with how much juice they have in them. Some seem to go much quicker then others. They haven't started refilling cartomizers yet because they still have several prefilled ones, and they were still in the process of exploring some juices.
The cartomizer pictured had some juice left in it but not enough to produce satisfactory taste. The first layer of polyfill was pretty much dry,the second layer however left my fingers slightly moist indicating that it wasn't completely dry. But again dry enough to apparently not produce enough taste.
I guess this all comes down to what each individual perceives as an acceptable point of failure. The way this model of cartomizer is designed to be used is you vape it till its flavor is weak and then replace it. Now if the polyfill is starting to burn before there is zero flavor and vapor being produced then I would say its failing somewhat prematurely. Since I don't vape I can't physically run tests myself but from the 3 cartomizers I took apart 2 had that burn area. The other one didn't show any signs of burning. But its second layer of polyfill was slightly more moist then the one pictured. Other then that the 3 seemed the same.
This all has to do with how dry your running these things. But I would say that if you vape it till you start experiencing less flavor that would be considered normal operation, and it should not burn. This is how both of my parents have been using them and as such I would say that it seems some might be failing earlier then others.
Keep in mind there have been resistance changes that Leaford has implemented or rather according to him more tight QC checks so Id also add that its hard to gauge a lot of this stuff atm because of the inconsistencies present in the cartos, which is or has been rectified according to the last batch of blanks.
I just set about making this thread to better educate people that might not know exactly what is in the makeup of the cartomizer. I haven't come across a thread that both explains and shows all the parts. My only goal was to provide documentation for people who are maybe not as exploratory as others to see whats inside there. I was never worried about the silicone because I know about its heat resistant properties. Silicone as mentioned by DeeLeeKay its used in cookware a lot these days exactly because of that factor.
I don't think anyone ever disputed the fact that the people are Bloog are very nice, nor can I say I saw anyone ever say they were trying to hurt anyone. I have already recommended Bloog to several of my buddy's who smoke, as have my parents.
Again my only intent was to provide a solid thread with some good images explaining the parts. I have even left 2 blanks for Leaford to fill in at his most convenient point.
I can see that. And your pictures are excellent. And possibly even helpful, because there was a part on the previous one that looked like cracked plastic, when actually it was that braided part (no idea what it's called). It isn't so much what you posted, as the fact that people are jumping all over this as though it further evidence that something is wrong. And we really don't know that. For example, if there's an adhesive in there, what's to say it's not a perfectly safe adhesive. You know, Leaford and Toni vape with Bloog cartos too. And he does know exactly what they're made of. I just wanted to mention to everyone, not just you, that there's real people who have put their hard earned money and butts on the line for us, for this company, for something they believe in. Let's not destroy that in the name of something we know nothing about.
And Rift, I know you're trying to help. Maybe I should have posted my thoughts on the other thread instead. For that I'm sorry.
And Rift, I know you're trying to help. Maybe I should have posted my thoughts on the other thread instead. For that I'm sorry.
I have no problems with your post Newme, no worries here. I dono I always feel that information like this is all the manufacturers have to go on. The users are the only place they can turn to for feedback to better there products. You can only do internal testing to a certain degree but mass consumption is a whole other animal.
I agree some posts have been somewhat heated but that will always happen and unfortunately you cant really stop that.
I agree some posts have been somewhat heated but that will always happen and unfortunately you cant really stop that.
- Status
