There are 10 kinds of people in the world - those that understand binary and those that dont.
T
Have that pinned to the wall in plain sight
There are 10 kinds of people in the world - those that understand binary and those that dont.
T
That's changing. See Evolv's dna-30; spec sheet says it's good to 0.5 ohms, but it will actually go a bit lower than that.The electronic supplies such as the itaste provari vamo zmax , raise the voltage, and also detect low resistances, and actually REFUSE to use low resistance coils such as 1 ohm or less; hence if you WANT to do sub ohm, you have to use a mech.
So it's the SPEED of the draw that is most appealing about sub-ohm?
I have a chi you clone, but now im afraid to use it.
I had been using 1.3 on a 18350 battery, was getting ready to build a dual for .8 and was doing some reading,
And now i am confused about it all !
What is the point of going so low except for the clouds, seems to be more cons than pros, but im sure i am missing something.
The times i have vaped a .8 my juice was harsh, tasted chemically and was hot on my throat!
I'd love to have a mech FOR BACKUP; and the last thing I'd want to put on it is some very low ohm coil.
The advantage of a mech mod is that it is just a simple mechanical device; no electronics that can get screwed up; your expensive thingy with the vv vw safety features that prevent it from discharging etc, could just have a meltdown - maybe some eliquid gets on the electronics and the electronics gets fried................ Now what; you need a smoke, whatcha gonna do - - pull out the ole backup mech; no fancy stuff just a tube for a battery and a simple on off switch.
Thanks! But... why do you WANT to do sub-ohm? That's the big question... what's the upside, when there are so many downsides? (power drain, safety, faster juice consumption being the biggest ones) ?
Thanks! But... why do you WANT to do sub-ohm? That's the big question... what's the upside, when there are so many downsides? (power drain, safety, faster juice consumption being the biggest ones) ?
If it's a backup then explain why mechs are more expensive than regulated... The high end ones.... I keep a regulated as a back up... But it doesn't come near to performance of the mech. My provari is my backup and my just GG is my adv main device.... Just IMHO
As that the majority of the most expensive devices is mech...
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If it's a backup then explain why mechs are more expensive than regulated... The high end ones.... I keep a regulated as a back up... But it doesn't come near to performance of the mech. My provari is my backup and my just GG is my adv main device.... Just IMHO
As that the majority of the most expensive devices is mech...
Sent from my Just GG using Tapatalk
I'd love to have a mech FOR BACKUP
Like most of us that sub ohm, a regulated mod or a mech with an over ohm coil is just not satisfying anymore.
I am not a cloud chaser and frankly low sub ohm coils seem to loose flavor for me so I am in the .6 to .8 ohm range.
The warmth of the vape, flavor, and vapor production are the primary culprits.
If you really want to experience flavor, you will need to have Peter set you up one of my Mundy Magic coils when you get that work of art.
Nothing can compare IMO and in dib's and Xo's and others.
Safety is not an issue IF you understand what you are doing and have the proper equipment and don't try to one up (or would that be down) everyone else with the lowest possible ohm coil just cause you can.
I personally find juice consumption about the same per day as before. (3 to 5ml depending on how the day goes)
Using AW IMR18650's 1600mah I change in the morning and midday. (Today was a brutal work day in the cold drizzle and wind so I didn't vape as much and didn't change until just about an hour ago at 3.66V (cause I was curious) and topped off the Reo Grand (about 2.5ml used))
Well, the REASON that mech mods tend to be more expensive I think is customization. They are simple enough that someone who is artistic can create a beautiful case without messing with electronics. An Otto Carver can cost $3000, while you can get mech mods for under $20, WITH a kick. This one I just got:
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And it's not a clone of anything, just a metal tube with a pin button touching an internal metal tube, a replaceable kick, and a connector top. Well, it might be a clone of a flashlight bottom design. They do not have to be 'more expensive'. You pay expensive for design, fit, finish and decorative work.
I said:
I did not say that a mech is a backup.
And obviously, your mech, is not a backup, it is your main.
As for expense, a mech has little that can go wrong with it, so it is actually worthwhile to construct a high quality mech with gold contacts and other constructions; but with a typical regulated system, it's going to die after a while anyway, so the pressure is on to manufacture with cheaper materials.
For me personally I don't particularly want a mech; but if I could get the right modules that a tube can work as a regulated supply, but function without the eletronics screwon removalbe module as a mech, it would be worth it to get a quality constuction.
I pay for the finest made devices. Imeos mods are the top made devices. You dont understand the difference untill you hold them two. Again I'm talking about high end mods not ones fast tech or any other below 100$ devices. Go look at just GG see how sleek and simple the design is. Look how nothing can fail no wires no circuit board just raw power. I held a provari while I liked how well it performed I liked looks when I picked up just GG I couldn't put it down. You can feel how beautifully made it was. It's like owning a manual vs an automatic vehicle in terms of performance. However it's made is deciding from above 100k or below for cars and American vs foreign.
Ps I prefer my Mercedes compressor manualand my just GG in the cup holder.
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I have a genesis style tank; its an I-atty from ft; it has a mesh wick;; that's steel mesh; the coil wraps on the wick; my multimeter reads about 2 ohms on the coil; when I put the thing on my zmax, it doesnt work to good; when I checked the resistance using the zmax, it seems the zmax was registering widely fluctuating resistances; I suppose theres some degree of shorting going off and on that varies with temperature of the coil too;
basically the electronics doesnt like that kind of build- or maybe my build is just bad. But I can use the tank on my ego type battery; I assume the ego type battery electronics is just more tolerant of the resistance.
As for a mech mod, the mech mod doesn't care what you put on it; give it a full short, it will discharge even if that means explosion, fried face or whatever;
Au Contraire.. I do know the difference between expensive and cheap. You said that mech mods were all expensive, implying that was a trait of mech mods, and I said it was not a trait of mech mods but of workmanship. You can find both in mech mods, because artists can more easily use the mech mod as a framework for their art, and do not have to think like an engineer to design it.
Ok, I will ask him for the Mundy coil when it's my turn. That would be very helpful, since I have no idea how to coil that. (nor am I particularly good at making coils).
And, rather than try to reinvent the wheel with my new understanding of electronics, I will simply buy whatever battery you buy. hehe.
So despite the interesting chart on the Sony VT4, you're sticking with the AW 1600s?