Mechanical advice.

[apuck]

I'm thinking about buying a mechanical, just because I think they look cool. I don't intend to do anything fancy, I just want to throw a battery in and use a simple tank like a Vivi Nova, Itaste30, T3 etc. Now that I'm reading some posts about them I'm confused. It seems like everybody is talking about using them with RDAs and sub-ohm (I have no idea what sub-ohm means) gear. Can I just keep it simple, or would I just be tossing my money in the wind? I'm pretty clueless about this whole topic so try to dumb down any responses for me.

 

[BardicDruid]

I discovered that I'm getting a mech mod for my birthday, I'm going to use a Vivi Nova tank on it. Use what ever you like, it's just a mod.

ps, this is the one I'm getting: EA clone by EHpro - Vape Toy

 

[sawlight]

I wondered where that myth came from myself, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...925-mechanicals-rbas-myth-where-did-come.html
I use several mechanical's without RBA's on them, although it's nice to do that once in a while as well, but I don't think that's their only purpose anymore myself.

 

[apuck]

I wondered where that myth came from myself, http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...925-mechanicals-rbas-myth-where-did-come.html
I use several mechanical's without RBA's on them, although it's nice to do that once in a while as well, but I don't think that's their only purpose anymore myself.

Thanks for that link, but it totally confused the hell out of me. Seems that most say you should go the sub-ohm route on a mech though. I just wanted one because they look cool and last. Maybe I'd just be over my head with the whole mech thing. I'm not opposed to an RBA, but then I'd have to go through the whole which one do I get thing, plus the time involved in changing wicks and coils seems overwhelming. Seems like I should just stick to the world of VV/VW to keep my life simple.

 

[Baditude]

The people who do sub ohm on a mech do so because a regulated mod like a Vamo, ZMax, or Provari won't let them use a coil that low. They use a mechanical to bypass the safety features that the regulated mods have.

If you want a mechanical mod to use a regular juice attachment, go for it. It does have a slight down side. Your voltage will gradually drop as you use the battery, starting out at 4.2 volts and it puttering out around 3.4 volts. Vape will never be better than with a fresh battery, and then it's slightly downhill thereafter. But it is so gradual you won't notice until you put in a fresh battery.

BTW, it's now recommended to use a high quality IMR Li Mn battery in place of a protected Li Ion battery, but the choice is yours. Never use an un-protected Li Ion battery.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?

 

[sawtoothscream]

they work fine with carto tanks IMO but mines staying with RBA and RDA's. Just prefer them for the mech

 

[Jazzi Mike]

You can use anything on a mech that you would use on an ego or vv/vw mod or whatever you are currently using. With a mechanical mod, you are limited as far as what voltage you want to use since the voltage of the mech is the voltage of the battery (which is around 3.5-4.2 volts depending on where your battery is in power left). To get around this, mechanical mod users put low resistance atomizers/clearomizer/cartomizers on top. This will give you more power, despite the limits of the voltage you are vaping at.

Basically, yes you can use a mechanical mod and get great performance out of it using any stock clearos, etc... It is best to use a low resistance atomizer (around1.5-2.0 ohms) to get a good vape. Some stupid idiot jerkfaces have been hyping the 'subohm' craze. Basically it is exactly what it sounds: using an RBA/RDA that has a resistance less than 1 ohm. What, you say? Sounds stupid and dangerous? You might melt your face off? Psh, nah bro, it is INTENSE!

You would not be just throwing money away by picking up a mechanical to use something like a Protank with. I have a few mechanical mods and I enjoy them. Sometimes, I use Protanks with them and sometimes, I throw some of my RBAs on them. That said, most of my builds have been over 1.5 ohms, which is pretty much the lowest resistance you can find clearos at

 

[NicoHolic]

The people who do sub ohm on a mech do so because a regulated mod like a Vamo, ZMax, or Provari won't let them use a coil that low. They use a mechanical to bypass the safety features that the regulated mods have.

The limitation in todays regulated mods that prevents the use of low ohm coils isn't a "safety" feature. It's the mod's self-protection feature--their electronics simply can't pass that much current without burning up. As soon as a manufacturer can get more robust electronics, they lower the limit. This happened with the Provari when they moved a bit into the sub-ohm realm. Don't be surprised if you one day see regulated mods with heat sink fins even lower.

 

[Baditude]

The limitation in todays regulated mods that prevents the use of low ohm coils isn't a "safety" feature. It's the mod's self-protection feature--their electronics simply can't pass that much current without burning up. As soon as a manufacturer can get more robust electronics, they lower the limit. This happened with the Provari when they moved a bit into the sub-ohm realm. Don't be surprised if you one day see regulated mods with heat sink fins even lower.

Actually it is a safety feature. When the chipset was designed, no atomizers were being made or used below 1.5 ohm. The processor recognizes anything lower than 1 ohm as a defective atomizer and shuts off, probably bringing up an error code. What you said is also true.

When all is said and done, sub ohm coils will one day be seen as stacked batteries for high voltage vaping are now. A passing fancy.

 

[Wesley Tyler Robinson]

Apuck, I agree with everyone else that you can use regular tanks/clearos/cartos on a mechanical and it is just fine, but you will most likely want 1.5-2 ohm atomizers for them. There are many people who get mech mods simply because of their durability and the lack of circuitry to mess with, the simplicity I suppose. Ignore everyone who seems to say that mechanicals are strictly for sub-ohm builds... I used to use a cartomizer tank on mechanicals all the time and it worked great.

Baditude, I think it became a craze and it is already slowly dying out with the birth of micro-coils and DNA-20 devices, but I don't think it will ever die out completely. There are many like myself who can get a great vape out of all kinds of devices and RBA builds, but prefer a 0.8 ohm coil on a mechanical device. Either way, I think the general consensus nowadays is silly; that mechanical devices are only or almost exclusively for use with sub-ohm RBAs. To be fair, IMO, the most you get out of a mech is with a RBA, but that is sub-ohm or not. You can build a 1.2 ohm coil on an RBA and it be a great vape. Just my thoughts though...

 

[Ryedan]

In my experience most clearos are pretty intolerant of higher power so have limited range of acceptable voltage. Cartos and dripping attys have a much better range. Because of this I would expect them to be much friendlier on a mechanical mod than clearos. I haven't tried anything but RBA/RDA's on mechs though, so I have no actual experience at this.

You will definitely be facing the drop in power that comes from the a fresh battery's voltage dropping as you use it. I change out my batteries at about 3.5 volts. You can get a feel for this by setting your PV to 4.0 volts, vape that and then set to 3.5 volts and vape that. The only way you have to change the power further is to chose a different resistance device. The lower the resistance, the higher the power will automatically be, but the change of the battery running down will always be there. This is about the experience you will have with a mechanical.

 

[sawlight]

You can use anything on a mech that you would use on an ego or vv/vw mod or whatever you are currently using. With a mechanical mod, you are limited as far as what voltage you want to use since the voltage of the mech is the voltage of the battery (which is around 3.5-4.2 volts depending on where your battery is in power left). To get around this, mechanical mod users put low resistance atomizers/clearomizer/cartomizers on top. This will give you more power, despite the limits of the voltage you are vaping at.

Basically, yes you can use a mechanical mod and get great performance out of it using any stock clearos, etc... It is best to use a low resistance atomizer (around1.5-2.0 ohms) to get a good vape. Some stupid idiot jerkfaces have been hyping the 'subohm' craze. Basically it is exactly what it sounds: using an RBA/RDA that has a resistance less than 1 ohm. What, you say? Sounds stupid and dangerous? You might melt your face off? Psh, nah bro, it is INTENSE!

You would not be just throwing money away by picking up a mechanical to use something like a Protank with. I have a few mechanical mods and I enjoy them. Sometimes, I use Protanks with them and sometimes, I throw some of my RBAs on them. That said, most of my builds have been over 1.5 ohms, which is pretty much the lowest resistance you can find clearos at

I'm so going to print this post out on parchment paper and have it framed!

 

[apuck]

Thank you all, I think my question has been answered. I think I'm going to buy a cheap mech, and see how things go. I'll make a decision about RBAs and whatnot later.