I'm guessing hot spring stays and contact is not pointy, probably more of a polished contact surface 
Mechanical reos will be seeing some upgrades
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Not sure it's possible to have a hot spring AND low v-drop. The two seem......... incompatible......... No????
Its the material the spring is made of in the stock grand that is causing the voltage drop . The positive contact has very little effect even the pointy contact is not the problem
There is more surface area with the new contacts . Yes their will still be a hot springI'm guessing hot spring stays and contact is not pointy, probably more of a polished contact surface
This has a pointed contact to prove a point . Its the material the contacts are made of that makes the biggest difference . I do agree more surface area is the way to go . The spring in the standard grand is the biggest culprit for voltage drop
you beat me on that one, dangit, but i just got another on the classies. top-feeder tho, so i'll either have to get brave or beg for help
I got the bf but u got the drip tip. I'm gonna have to order me one of those fancy'uns
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wanna trade sumpin?
Hmm. I have a cotton ball and 1 slightly used 8 ohm coil.
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ummm.... back to the classies
Lol yeah. Other than my 2 grands with rm2 's. All I have is a lavatube v2, a few protanks and a couple of ego batts. I'm relatively a noob to the vaping scene.
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whats the resistance on the coil Rob? or did i miss something?
Turbo the v drop was .113…. so 11 ohm v drop…. i agree quite low,
the resistance? ….it could be a 1.1 ohms coil?,
without anything to compare it to; ie the stock Reo with same atomizer.
i want the back story… lol.
the resistance? ….it could be a 1.1 ohms coil?,
without anything to compare it to; ie the stock Reo with same atomizer.
i want the back story… lol.
I assume a 1.1 ohm coil from the title of the vid?
I agree there is nothing wrong with the pointy tip, but only up to a certain amount of amperage draw, it's adequate for 3 amps, maybe 4, so there is little issue when were talking 1.2 ohm or 1.8 ohm or any "normal" atty/carto ranges that this was probably originally designed for. actually with only a little amp draw the point is almost an advantage as it could be almost self cleaning, the point may make a better connection if the battery is a little oxidized even because it would dig in, cutting through the oxidation and actually improving the connection, but, not when it comes to trying to flow 6-7 amps or more through it.
at that point it just becomes a point of high resistance and this will cause the connection to instead rapidly deteriorate as it heats up, at that point the pointy tip becomes a bottleneck. it's like wiring a whole circuit with 18ga wire but then making the actual battery connection with a short piece of 28ga. the short 28ga section will heat up trying to flow what the rest of the circuit could otherwise handle comfortably... past a certain point the short section of 28ga would melt and burn causing an open circuit, but since were dealing with a pointed tip of metal instead of a tiny length of 28ga. instead of burning open it just burns the contacts which causes more resistance which burns the contacts more causing more resistance until the point it's so burnt that it really impedes electron flow enough that it hardly works anymore, you then file to a clean surface and start the whole cycle over again. this is the drawback to the pointy tip, it's not going to flow 6-7 or more amps without becoming a bottleneck.
now even larger contact pads rarely can make full even surface to surface contact anyway, lets say your using a 1/4" disc as your contact pad, chances are it will never contact perfectly flat throughout the whole surface area anyway so the actual contact area may only be contacting one edge of the disc and contacting on only half the diameter even, but even this, which might result in an actual contact patch that may look more like a "C" than a full round solid contact is still going to be way better than a contact area of a point that looks like "." the pointed tip is bad when it comes to sub ohm high amperage loads no matter how you look at it, not enough surface contact area even when it's new and perfectly clean
you should compare actual contact area achieved to the surface area of a cross section of different gauge wires to kind of gauge what is and isn't adequate enough to not cause additional resistance. ideally your surface contact area should be more than what the cross section area would be of an adequately sized wire for the circuit. it is only a pressure contact and will have more loss than a solid wire connection, ideally it should probably be a contact area roughly double what an adequate gauge wire would be. if the contact area is smaller than an adequately sized wire would be then it will be a point of resistance and resulting heat, energy lost in creating that heat and also a restriction to electron flow, a bottleneck. this is why a pointed tip can't be adequate for higher amp draws, just not enough surface area to ever possibly flow adequately.
I'm not sure what gauge wiring you use in the woodvilles but just as a point of reference evolve recommends using 20ga for the dna20 which consumes up to ~7 amps or so... for a mech reo I would recommend at least 18 gauge as the reference point, 18 gauge would be ok up until 11=12 amps and better. 18ga has a cross section diameter of just over 1mm I think so ideally the contact area to the battery should be the equivalent surface area of what would equal a 2mm diameter solid contact. of course as said before the contact wil rarely be anything close to 100% so needing 2mm solid contact area would require a maybe 5mm contact pad at least.
materials do play a big part here but not always as much as many would think too. materials differences would go more towards reducing surface oxidation and that's where most of the differences will be found, too many get hung up on the differences of conductivity of the material itself but in most cases this makes very little if any difference beyond just the oxidation problem because your not limited by conductor size in most mechs. for example if you were limited for some reason to the size of the conductor then yes, materials would make all the difference. if you HAD to make a connection with 28 ga wire then of course silver would be better than brass which would be better than aluminum etc but once you can go with a larger conductor the materials make less and less difference, once the conductor is adequately sized to more than flow the current necessary, the materials makes less and less difference beyond just surface oxidation. now I do agree that if you are just using a pointy contact then a materials upgrade would help and def make a difference, but the point is that even more of a difference would be made by just increasing the contact area instead
I agree there is nothing wrong with the pointy tip, but only up to a certain amount of amperage draw, it's adequate for 3 amps, maybe 4, so there is little issue when were talking 1.2 ohm or 1.8 ohm or any "normal" atty/carto ranges that this was probably originally designed for. actually with only a little amp draw the point is almost an advantage as it could be almost self cleaning, the point may make a better connection if the battery is a little oxidized even because it would dig in, cutting through the oxidation and actually improving the connection, but, not when it comes to trying to flow 6-7 amps or more through it.
at that point it just becomes a point of high resistance and this will cause the connection to instead rapidly deteriorate as it heats up, at that point the pointy tip becomes a bottleneck. it's like wiring a whole circuit with 18ga wire but then making the actual battery connection with a short piece of 28ga. the short 28ga section will heat up trying to flow what the rest of the circuit could otherwise handle comfortably... past a certain point the short section of 28ga would melt and burn causing an open circuit, but since were dealing with a pointed tip of metal instead of a tiny length of 28ga. instead of burning open it just burns the contacts which causes more resistance which burns the contacts more causing more resistance until the point it's so burnt that it really impedes electron flow enough that it hardly works anymore, you then file to a clean surface and start the whole cycle over again. this is the drawback to the pointy tip, it's not going to flow 6-7 or more amps without becoming a bottleneck.
now even larger contact pads rarely can make full even surface to surface contact anyway, lets say your using a 1/4" disc as your contact pad, chances are it will never contact perfectly flat throughout the whole surface area anyway so the actual contact area may only be contacting one edge of the disc and contacting on only half the diameter even, but even this, which might result in an actual contact patch that may look more like a "C" than a full round solid contact is still going to be way better than a contact area of a point that looks like "." the pointed tip is bad when it comes to sub ohm high amperage loads no matter how you look at it, not enough surface contact area even when it's new and perfectly clean
you should compare actual contact area achieved to the surface area of a cross section of different gauge wires to kind of gauge what is and isn't adequate enough to not cause additional resistance. ideally your surface contact area should be more than what the cross section area would be of an adequately sized wire for the circuit. it is only a pressure contact and will have more loss than a solid wire connection, ideally it should probably be a contact area roughly double what an adequate gauge wire would be. if the contact area is smaller than an adequately sized wire would be then it will be a point of resistance and resulting heat, energy lost in creating that heat and also a restriction to electron flow, a bottleneck. this is why a pointed tip can't be adequate for higher amp draws, just not enough surface area to ever possibly flow adequately.
I'm not sure what gauge wiring you use in the woodvilles but just as a point of reference evolve recommends using 20ga for the dna20 which consumes up to ~7 amps or so... for a mech reo I would recommend at least 18 gauge as the reference point, 18 gauge would be ok up until 11=12 amps and better. 18ga has a cross section diameter of just over 1mm I think so ideally the contact area to the battery should be the equivalent surface area of what would equal a 2mm diameter solid contact. of course as said before the contact wil rarely be anything close to 100% so needing 2mm solid contact area would require a maybe 5mm contact pad at least.
materials do play a big part here but not always as much as many would think too. materials differences would go more towards reducing surface oxidation and that's where most of the differences will be found, too many get hung up on the differences of conductivity of the material itself but in most cases this makes very little if any difference beyond just the oxidation problem because your not limited by conductor size in most mechs. for example if you were limited for some reason to the size of the conductor then yes, materials would make all the difference. if you HAD to make a connection with 28 ga wire then of course silver would be better than brass which would be better than aluminum etc but once you can go with a larger conductor the materials make less and less difference, once the conductor is adequately sized to more than flow the current necessary, the materials makes less and less difference beyond just surface oxidation. now I do agree that if you are just using a pointy contact then a materials upgrade would help and def make a difference, but the point is that even more of a difference would be made by just increasing the contact area instead
When can I expect to recieve these new prototypes? I'm assuming you mailed them out to me before making this post?
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