Well, the OP was expecting 3.1v, and wondering why he didn't get that reading. That obviously called for an explanation why he wasn't getting them, didn't it?
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Whether you're measuring under load or not, the actual voltage is sort of irrelevant. It boils down to actual individual usage and personal preference.
Prior to buying my first e-cig, I did as much research as possible. I read all the "510 is this.." and "901 is that.." posts. It wasn't until I actually used both that I truly understood the only differences that mattered; those being my assessments of either versus what was going to make me happy.
To me, the 510 and the 901 are very similar. There are differences in draw, TH, vapor heat, and so on, but they are slight. You can then weigh in the different options for each model (e.g., cartridge type, PCC, et al) and pick one you like more.
However, the native KR808D-1 batteries (Kanger made) are different. The standard battery is 280mAh. Yes, the 510 Mega is too, but if you've ever used a KR8 battery with a 510 atty, then you know the KR8 cooks hotter than the 510 Mega. Up that to the KR8 380mAh and you're a mile ahead of any other battery offered for a standard e-cig. Nothing can touch the KR8 batteries.
Personally, the 380mAh is fine for a carto, but I blow through juice too fast using a 380 with a 510/901 atty. If I want that much vapor, I'll bust out a mod. Again, everything I wrote is pointless if you haven't tried everything I'm writing about and have my exact same preferences.
Bottom line, try as many different models (e.g., 401, 510, 801, 901, KR8, etc.) and combinations (i.e., different model batts with other model attys using adapters) and find your own personal sweet spot. That's what I did.
Prior to buying my first e-cig, I did as much research as possible. I read all the "510 is this.." and "901 is that.." posts. It wasn't until I actually used both that I truly understood the only differences that mattered; those being my assessments of either versus what was going to make me happy.
To me, the 510 and the 901 are very similar. There are differences in draw, TH, vapor heat, and so on, but they are slight. You can then weigh in the different options for each model (e.g., cartridge type, PCC, et al) and pick one you like more.
However, the native KR808D-1 batteries (Kanger made) are different. The standard battery is 280mAh. Yes, the 510 Mega is too, but if you've ever used a KR8 battery with a 510 atty, then you know the KR8 cooks hotter than the 510 Mega. Up that to the KR8 380mAh and you're a mile ahead of any other battery offered for a standard e-cig. Nothing can touch the KR8 batteries.
Personally, the 380mAh is fine for a carto, but I blow through juice too fast using a 380 with a 510/901 atty. If I want that much vapor, I'll bust out a mod. Again, everything I wrote is pointless if you haven't tried everything I'm writing about and have my exact same preferences.
Bottom line, try as many different models (e.g., 401, 510, 801, 901, KR8, etc.) and combinations (i.e., different model batts with other model attys using adapters) and find your own personal sweet spot. That's what I did.
Interesting observations by all.
Yes the OP asked a simple question, for which perhaps a simple answer could have sufficed, but the OP new a little more than the avg individual in that such he was expecting 3.1V. I would have metered the batts straight off the charger or on a "known" source as a test probe, not at X voltage, an unknown.
Understanding the voltage under load is important to some, but as useless to most as initial voltages are to others. IMO initial voltages are important wrt matching atty resistance correctly for the voltage to be utilized, because it is the volts available that will determine the amount of current flowing to the atty.
Wrt batteries, we have a totally different kettle of fish there, as explained by Unperson. A 3.7V batt and a 3.7V batt are not created equal, which is something that totally surprised me while using my latest acquisition, to include but not limited to which brand battery you are using. Although this difference may seem subtle, it is not so much so, or we wouldn't notice it. For example the delivery of an AW RCR123A is different than the delivery of an AW 14670, same company, same voltage, but different performance, similar to using different attys or different atty resistance.
I believe although the question might have seen simple, it had certain nuances that led folks to believe otherwise. I know for myself I am finding this battery thing quite interesting, but frustrating at times.
In closing it will be interesting to read about the experiences of the folks using the new F16, that utilizes a modified eGo cone (aesthetics in this case) and a 1200 mAh batt.
Yes the OP asked a simple question, for which perhaps a simple answer could have sufficed, but the OP new a little more than the avg individual in that such he was expecting 3.1V. I would have metered the batts straight off the charger or on a "known" source as a test probe, not at X voltage, an unknown.
Understanding the voltage under load is important to some, but as useless to most as initial voltages are to others. IMO initial voltages are important wrt matching atty resistance correctly for the voltage to be utilized, because it is the volts available that will determine the amount of current flowing to the atty.
Wrt batteries, we have a totally different kettle of fish there, as explained by Unperson. A 3.7V batt and a 3.7V batt are not created equal, which is something that totally surprised me while using my latest acquisition, to include but not limited to which brand battery you are using. Although this difference may seem subtle, it is not so much so, or we wouldn't notice it. For example the delivery of an AW RCR123A is different than the delivery of an AW 14670, same company, same voltage, but different performance, similar to using different attys or different atty resistance.
I believe although the question might have seen simple, it had certain nuances that led folks to believe otherwise. I know for myself I am finding this battery thing quite interesting, but frustrating at times.
In closing it will be interesting to read about the experiences of the folks using the new F16, that utilizes a modified eGo cone (aesthetics in this case) and a 1200 mAh batt.
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... and that is absolutely true.
To some this all seems purely subjective, to others the subtle nuances are easily discerned when utilising certain delicately flavoured liquids as in RY4. The only way to really tell what is going on is to meter the resistance, because that is the factor that will play a large role in the vaping experience. For example these "no load" calculations:
- 2.2 Ohms @ 3.1V will produce 4.3 watts of power;
- 2.2 Ohms @ 3.7V will produce 6 watts of power;
- 2.5 Ohms @ 3.7V will produce 5.5 watts of power;
- 2.5 Ohms @ 3.1V will produce 3.8 watts of power; and
- 1.5 Ohms @ 3.1V will produce 6.4 watts of power whilst producing 9.1 watts of power at 3.7 volts., almost triple in comparison to a stock atty operated on an eGO
To really confuse matters further, throw in 3.7V high drain batteries in the equation and the vaping experience changes once again.
As PV users, our PV battery findings and observations are all interesting and useful in some way or another, Switched. But, did the OP *know* more than the average user or was/is he confused because of the conflicting information WE put out there as posters? Re-reading the OP it sounds like he was of the opinion that the eGo battery itself was a 3.1 V cell. His purpose of posting was two-fold -- to find out the battery voltage of the eGo cell and if his meter was working correctly. Just seems to me from what I've been reading on the boards is that the OP and lots of others are referring to the eGo as 3.1 V device. While that may be technically correct in operation it tends to confuse the hell out of people, rather unnecessarily.
Scottbee did a fabulous job of breaking down the under load voltages of the different devices. But, when we refer to the eGo (or any standard device) as something other than a 3.7 v device we're distorting the truth. Yes, Scott fixed a 2.5 ohm resistor on his eGo testing rig which *does* simulate a standard 510 atty, but IF a user decides to adapt and/or shove a cartomizer on his eGo battery, or an 801, or a 901, an LR 510, etc, etc, etc, we can throw that 3.1 voltage right out the window as the different resistances of the atomizers will vary from that 3.1 V. Ergo, 3.1 V is not a constant. If we were to refer to the voltage of devices depending upon which atty we are using under load, given all the different possibilities with an array of adapters... well, it would get even more confusing and further distorted.
The one constant that we DO have is that the eGo uses a 3.7v battery, the industry standard. Roughly speaking, that 3.7 V battery charges up 15% higher than 3.7V when freshly charged and requires a re-charge (triggered by the eGo battery PCB) when the voltage drops to 15% below 3.7V.
My understanding of Scott's thread that albeit he used a known resistance (had to start somewhere) for measuring the 3.1V on JoyE devices, that the PCB circuitry provided a constant 3.1V modulated pulse regardless of the load placed upon it. Now he performed this on the eGO PCB, whether or not it applies to all JoyE PCBs, that's a different question. This also explains IMO why the Janty atty fabricated by JoyE meters out at 2.2 Ohms vice the standard 2.5 Ohms for stock JoyEs.
... and yes there is a lot of confusing issues out there, and for all intense and purpose the eGo is a 3.7V device. Why its performance excels compared to other 3.7V device has everything to do with the "entire package" vice one component or another, IMHO.
The mere fact that many cannot detect the subtle nuances of vaping with or without the cone is a good indication of what has been previously discussed.
Its amazing how much Chemistry, math and electric stuff I have learned since vaping.
Probably because unlike high school we can relate it to something usefulIts amazing how much Chemistry, math and electric stuff I have learned since vaping.
strange, my joye atomizers mostly are 2.2 - 2.3 ohms, same as janty. i think i never ever measured a new joye510 atomizer with 2.5 ohms high.
Me thinks people are getting bound up in their underwear.. and in some cases talking a bit above their pay grade.
The base point that my tests made was that while the Kanger, most mods, and perhaps some other devices can be considered to be "3.7V devices", the Joye 510, eGo, and probably some other "510 class" devices can not. The internal electronics either intentionally or accidentally reduce the effective voltage to the atty (3.1V RMS with a 2.5Ω load.. although it will vary with load and battery condition).
While some devices do everything they can to deliver the complete battery voltage to the atty (low resistance mechanical switches, high efficiency MOSFETs, over-sized wire gauge, etc.) the eGo and Joye 510 style devices do not.
This is not to say in an absolute sense that the reduced effective voltage is "bad". A PV is a package, and it marries the battery, electronics, atomizer/cartomizer and liquid together to give a vaping experience. To some extent you can "compensate" for lower effective delivered voltage with changes to the atomizer/cartomizer and even the liquid.
The base point that my tests made was that while the Kanger, most mods, and perhaps some other devices can be considered to be "3.7V devices", the Joye 510, eGo, and probably some other "510 class" devices can not. The internal electronics either intentionally or accidentally reduce the effective voltage to the atty (3.1V RMS with a 2.5Ω load.. although it will vary with load and battery condition).
While some devices do everything they can to deliver the complete battery voltage to the atty (low resistance mechanical switches, high efficiency MOSFETs, over-sized wire gauge, etc.) the eGo and Joye 510 style devices do not.
This is not to say in an absolute sense that the reduced effective voltage is "bad". A PV is a package, and it marries the battery, electronics, atomizer/cartomizer and liquid together to give a vaping experience. To some extent you can "compensate" for lower effective delivered voltage with changes to the atomizer/cartomizer and even the liquid.
With a bit of effort I am sure you could have made that sound a bit less arrogant. Pay grade has nothing to do with expertise.
Lets keep in mind that this is the Janty forum: Speculators, amateurs, professionals, customers, consumers, we are all here to chat and thats it.
So lets keep the tone clean, please - and that goes for everyone.
"Talking above ones pay grade" is a colloquial expression Mik. Perhaps one that is not widely used in Denmark.
Actually we do use it here, - but it is being used as an arrogant expression/term. So while you might be right, I for one could only perceive it as something negative.
Wiki defines it as: "above my/your pay grade — expression denying responsibility or authority (indicating that the issue should be brought to higher-ranking officials)"
Which again roughly underlines the way I understand it: To tell someone, that it is out of their league.
Ah well.. I can probably find some danish expressions you would misunderstand
Anyroads, 5.50 am .. gotta go to bed! Night night.
Wiki defines it as: "above my/your pay grade — expression denying responsibility or authority (indicating that the issue should be brought to higher-ranking officials)"
Which again roughly underlines the way I understand it: To tell someone, that it is out of their league.
Ah well.. I can probably find some danish expressions you would misunderstand
Anyroads, 5.50 am .. gotta go to bed! Night night.
This is what this exchange reminds me of...
YouTube - Curly Takes the Stand
Particularly...
[From time index 3:45 in the linked clip]
Prosecutor, "Kindly speak English and drop the vernacular."
Curly, "Vernacular? Dat's a derby!"
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I don't know about all the math and physics involved but I do know that the last batch of Joye attomizers on my 5v devices all sucked and died out really quick. Only Janty 501 atties seem to last forever on my 5V devices since that type of voltage is optimal for the atomizers. I went on a TAWA for 3 months when using it on my Prodigy V2.
There is a very big difference between Joye and Janty atties for me. They also screw in differently as well. The 501s from Janty don't screw in completely in other devices (part of the thread sticks out) whereas with Joye they screw all the way in.
Anyway, Janty 501s are the best for me. Most solid 510s in my book
There is a very big difference between Joye and Janty atties for me. They also screw in differently as well. The 501s from Janty don't screw in completely in other devices (part of the thread sticks out) whereas with Joye they screw all the way in.
Anyway, Janty 501s are the best for me. Most solid 510s in my book
... you know, many would disagree with you, but I won't I don't have the guts to give them a whirl at 5V though. WTGG
I don't have the guts to give them a whirl at 5V though. WTGGWhat does one do if no juice is leaking or oozing out but the switch is not working. It takes two or three times to get it to work. My first V3 was replaced last week. Now the
replacement is doing the same thing. I have had two Joye V3's and two Janty V3's and
all four have had the same problem
replacement is doing the same thing. I have had two Joye V3's and two Janty V3's and
all four have had the same problem
Pretty much all you can do is ask Janty for a warranty replacement. My switch is a little iffy too, but it's a minor pain right now. Hope it doesn't get worse. Here's hoping for a V4.
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