I really don't think its how tight or loose anything is, the juice has to get past the oring first to get past the AFC or JFC to seep or leak. I still lean towards thin stock oring on the base not cutting it, but I've been known to be wrong and next step if the oring replacement don't work is hopefully not wrecking my merlin taking the base apart. So far so good...no seepage onto the 510 but its only been a few hours
Merlin by Augvape and Roxy
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I really don't think its how tight or loose anything is, the juice has to get past the oring first to get past the AFC or JFC to seep or leak. I still lean towards thin stock oring on the base not cutting it, but I've been known to be wrong and next step if the oring replacement don't work is hopefully not wrecking my merlin taking the base apart. So far so good...no seepage onto the 510 but its only been a few hours
Its now late in the afternoon been using my Merlin all day maybe ran 3 tanks enjoying the fresh wick clapton. Its still seeping, not as bad though but still seeping. I'm not psyched up enough to take the base apart so prolly going to vape the juice out then go into the clean up pile and set beside my TFV4's that don't get used very much until I decide take the base apart. My subtank mini's have been flawless in their performance and I don't want to have to start babysitting a seepy atty.
I just put my first Clapton coil in my Merlin. I've never tried one before. I got a roll with a UD wire box I bought a few months ago. It's kanthal Clapton and so far the flavor is really good.
They all seep between the AFC and the base, even my replacement base from STS seeps a little.
This is not an o-ring problem, it's a design problem.
I am loving these friction fit dotMod drip tips from FT!
If it is a design problem then every Merlin tank should have seeping problem, how come mine does not seep at all?
So far, the only tank I know to have design (seeping) problem is SMOK TFV4 mini, at least in one of the batch sold in the market.
Then you are one of the lucky ones...
The bases seem to have a different degree of tension due to them being press fit together. I imagine they are press fit by hand on an assembly line by different workers.
If that is the case, then it is a manufacture fault or you can claim it as QC problem, not a design problem.
A design problem is something like I found with the TFV4 where I need to ask my friend in a glass workshop to trim my TFV4 glass tank about 1 mm shorter in order to correct leaking problem.
Well if it wasn't designed to be press fit together like it is, there wouldn't have been a seepage problem at all.
Feel free to call it what you like though.
Feel free to call it what you like though.
There are lots of design problems that don't cause problems with every single user, but cause problems with enough users to be considered widespread and can be fixed with a slight redesign.
This is one of them. A threaded base rather than a press fit base would have prevented any seeping in 100% of the users. Eliminating a widespread problem with a simple and minor design change. An easy and obvious design change that would have only cost them an extra dollar or so to implement and would have eliminated the problem entirely, but they chose a poor design in order to save that dollar in production costs.
And I suspect your TFV4 problem was a user problem, not a design problem. I know dozens of TFV4 users that don't have leaking issues. If your glass was 1mm too long then perhaps you should have checked to see where your missing o-ring went rather than trimming the glass.
All user pics Ive seen of the merlin on a mod seem to show the logo and the afc perfectly aligned when jfc is open….mine never is, yet it vapes just fine….
Am I doing something wrong?
Am I doing something wrong?
Ever since I shorten the glass tank, the leaking/seeping stops.
Common sense tells, if there is a missing o-ring, shorter glass might sit in the place of the o-ring, but won't be able to stop the leaking because only o-ring has sealing nature, glass does not.
I think I've decided on getting a Merlin. As an RTA novice I don't know much about the different kinds of wires, which type, thickness and material would you guys suggest I get for the Merlin? I'm ordering from slowtech partly because I've had slight issues finding good sites that deliver to Sweden without a fairly nasty shipping cost and partly because it's the only site where it's confirmed to be the new batch with larger JFC holes (and better build quality from skimming through a bit of this thread?).
So wire available there would be preferred. I also don't know the differences of the cotton, what would I need to know about that?
EDIT: After looking around I'm thinking these two:
$4.81 Clapton Kanthal A1 Coiled Heating Wire for Rebuildable Atomizers - 32/26 AWG (0.2mm/0.4mm) / 5m (15 feet) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.46 LTQ Vaper Japanese Organic Cotton for RDA RTA RBA Rebuildable Atomizers (10-Pack) - 60*50mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
So wire available there would be preferred. I also don't know the differences of the cotton, what would I need to know about that?
EDIT: After looking around I'm thinking these two:
$4.81 Clapton Kanthal A1 Coiled Heating Wire for Rebuildable Atomizers - 32/26 AWG (0.2mm/0.4mm) / 5m (15 feet) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.46 LTQ Vaper Japanese Organic Cotton for RDA RTA RBA Rebuildable Atomizers (10-Pack) - 60*50mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
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I replied to your duplicate post in the serpent mini thread.
I use Rayon in all my tanks and will never go back to cotton even though I have about 10 packs of it. My Merlin is currently wired with SS316L 3×28g twisted 8wrap/3mmID = 0.34ohm running in TCSS mode on a SMY SDNA75 and I couldn't be happier with both flavor and vapor production.
SS as in Stainless Steel I assume, what's the difference between it and Kanthal regarding vape experience? Does 3x28 mean that there are 3 wires forming the clapton wire? Most I see on slowtech is x2. 3mmID refers to the empty space in the middle after twisting the wire?
Did some reading on rayon and seems to be appreciated by a lot of people. I might buy both regular cotton and rayon and see for myself.
SS for me = SS316L. It can be used in VW or TC mode. I prefer TC mode so I can fine tune the warmth of the vape. I have 10 tanks in rotation and only one (billow v3 plus) still has a kanthal hive wire in it but I find the vape to be too warm at the watts I am running it at (0.11ohm at 65 watts). It will be getting dual twisted 26 or triple twisted 28 SS316L next time it needs a wick.
3x28 means 3 pieces of standard 28ga wire twisted together with a drill, then that twisted wire is coiled with a coil master on a 3mm bit.
Thanks for the information. My current mod doesn't have TC and it only goes up to 30W. I might get an upgrade but I want to first find out how well it performs with the Merlin. With that in mind, would you have any recommendations if I don't have the wattage to support such low ohm resistances?
Could you clear up the information some wires provide? If it for example says 24/32 AWG, does that mean that there are 2 wires, one 24 and one 32? If it says 27*2/32 AWG, does that then mean 2x27 and a third 32 wire?
At least on slowtech I can't find any wires that have 3x the same measurement.
I can't really help, sorry. The only coils I vape below 30w are the pre-made atomizer coils for my cubis and cubis pro tanks. If I build I am building for sub 0.5. There are wire calculators such as Coil wrapping but I don't know that you can use those various clapton configurations in it. So far all I used in clapton is pre-coiled stuff I bought and one spool I bought locally that never ends up low enough ohms for what I want so I stick with standard wires and twist a couple/few together to get lower ohms than what they provide as a single strand. The twisted wire also gives more surface area and crevices to produce more flavor/vapor.
I don't know enough about all those fancy wires to answer your other questions. You might be able to find those answers, or start a new thread asking them, in the wires/wicks sub-forum.
24/32 refers to standard Clapton wire and it means the core wire is 24 AWG. The wire that's wrapped around the core is 32 AWG. Looks a lot like a guitar string. 27*2/32 AWG refers to a Fused Clapton. Two wires of 27 AWG are run side by side, or parallel and then wrapped in 32 AWG wire. Hope this helped.
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