Merlin by Augvape and Roxy
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I have no leaking or condensation in the air chamber at all. I stuff my wicks all the way in the bottom and the holes are 100% covered. I don't believe any liquid can get thru the pressed fit because it's too tight. I have to believe that it MIGHT be a wicking issue for most here but I can not be 100% sure because some could be defective.
I check my air chambers for wetness by rolling up a piece of paper towel and feed it thru the air holes just to be sure.
If yours leaks or gets wet on the air chamber please post a pic of your Merlin with it coiled and wicked so we can see.
I have been a kayfun user for years and I find the Merlins to be better. Just my own opinion tho.
Show us your wicks...
I check my air chambers for wetness by rolling up a piece of paper towel and feed it thru the air holes just to be sure.
If yours leaks or gets wet on the air chamber please post a pic of your Merlin with it coiled and wicked so we can see.
I have been a kayfun user for years and I find the Merlins to be better. Just my own opinion tho.
Show us your wicks...
How many Merlins do you have? Maybe yours is a defective one. We've been vaping a long time now and I know that you know what you're doing.
I have two and a spare base leftover from a STS base replacement. The replacement was one of the square juice hole versions but both my bells have round holes.
The replacement base seeps a lot less than the non replaced one does. I did apply sockets/vise to my bad silver base which tightened it up quite a bit. Never did try it out though, I just tossed it in spares storage in case it was needed later.
Here is a picture of one of my wicking, Rayon with trimmed tails and not covering the juice holes. I push the wick up a little with a screw driver to make sure the holes are clear.
This is a different build before the Rayon was wet and tweaked.
Both wicks do not cover the juice holes or go to the bottom of the cup.
My base is never wet in behind the airflow slots, the seepage comes from the tiny gap between the AFC ring and the base bottom.
That first pic. Where the threads end and the deckwall begins would be the only feasable place where juice could get in between and seep out from in between the bottom of the base and the afc.I have two and a spare base leftover from a STS base replacement. The replacement was one of the square juice hole versions but both my bells have round holes.
The replacement base seeps a lot less than the non replaced one does. I did apply sockets/vise to my bad silver base which tightened it up quite a bit. Never did try it out though, I just tossed it in spares storage in case it was needed later.
Here is a picture of one of my wicking, Rayon with trimmed tails and not covering the juice holes. I push the wick up a little with a screw driver to make sure the holes are clear.
This is a different build before the Rayon was wet and tweaked.
Both wicks do not cover the juice holes or go to the bottom of the cup.
My base is never wet in behind the airflow slots, the seepage comes from the tiny gap between the AFC ring and the base bottom.
This is what I was talking about earlier. This is what you mean right?
I have two and a spare base leftover from a STS base replacement. The replacement was one of the square juice hole versions but both my bells have round holes.
The replacement base seeps a lot less than the non replaced one does. I did apply sockets/vise to my bad silver base which tightened it up quite a bit. Never did try it out though, I just tossed it in spares storage in case it was needed later.
Here is a picture of one of my wicking, Rayon with trimmed tails and not covering the juice holes. I push the wick up a little with a screw driver to make sure the holes are clear.
This is a different build before the Rayon was wet and tweaked.
Both wicks do not cover the juice holes or go to the bottom of the cup.
My base is never wet in behind the airflow slots, the seepage comes from the tiny gap between the AFC ring and the base bottom.
i think this is where the problem might be? if this is the case, couldnt we fill that area with something to plug it up?
Have you ever taken the base apart? There is an o-ring that seals inside the top of the air control ring and another o-ring that sits under the the piece that sits above the air control ring. Make sure that o-ring is there and maybe the press fitted parts a little further.I have two and a spare base leftover from a STS base replacement. The replacement was one of the square juice hole versions but both my bells have round holes.
The replacement base seeps a lot less than the non replaced one does. I did apply sockets/vise to my bad silver base which tightened it up quite a bit. Never did try it out though, I just tossed it in spares storage in case it was needed later.
Here is a picture of one of my wicking, Rayon with trimmed tails and not covering the juice holes. I push the wick up a little with a screw driver to make sure the holes are clear.
This is a different build before the Rayon was wet and tweaked.
Both wicks do not cover the juice holes or go to the bottom of the cup.
My base is never wet in behind the airflow slots, the seepage comes from the tiny gap between the AFC ring and the base bottom.
Yes that is what dave61 discovered over at the other place. The tolerances on the JFC ring, bell and deck walls are possibly not quite exact on some of them.
It all depends on how you vape. MTL or DTL and whether you like to take a long vape, I have a friends who always take around 8 seconds puff (DTL)... almost approching the auto-cut limit. (I admire him for what a big lung he has)
Having addition area covered by some cotton could be a good idea because in a long heating (like that my friend is doing), huge amount of juice is vaporized very quickly, those additional cotton serves a juice buffer and will make sure juice supply is always sufficient and quick enough.
Nice pics but I cover my juice holes 100% and the wick ends hit the bottom of the wells. I've used cottons, Rayon and currently ekowool/silica all the same way.I have two and a spare base leftover from a STS base replacement. The replacement was one of the square juice hole versions but both my bells have round holes.
The replacement base seeps a lot less than the non replaced one does. I did apply sockets/vise to my bad silver base which tightened it up quite a bit. Never did try it out though, I just tossed it in spares storage in case it was needed later.
Here is a picture of one of my wicking, Rayon with trimmed tails and not covering the juice holes. I push the wick up a little with a screw driver to make sure the holes are clear.
This is a different build before the Rayon was wet and tweaked.
Both wicks do not cover the juice holes or go to the bottom of the cup.
My base is never wet in behind the airflow slots, the seepage comes from the tiny gap between the AFC ring and the base bottom.
Here's a couple picks of merlin #2 broken apart with the orings.
The bottom oring may add a bit of resistance so the AFC doesn't spin freely but it provides no sealing ability. Once you get both base and post base together there is a hole in the chimney and the post base, the juice get between those 2 pieces then flows down behind and finally out the bottom
The orings supplied aren't beefy enough to stop any juice from getting past.
It could be my wicking but I've wicked it a couple different ways and it still seeps. I am in no way insulted that it could be my wicking or how I've set the wick in the cups. I'm at a loss if my final attempt to stop the seep don't work with different and doubled up orings on the base assembly.
Man, you are a great engineer
Now, the last question I have to those who face seeping problem:
Looking from outside the tank (assuming it stands vertically), which area is covered by the seeping?
If the knurling ring (component on the left side of ricks photo) is covered by the escaping juice, then it has nothing to do with the o-ring as pinpointed by ricks's photo.
If it's wet above the "knurling ring" it's the tank sealing o-ring... If it's between the 2 pieces I posted, it could be either a missing o-ring or the pieces are not pressed together enough. Does this make sense???Man, you are a great engineer
Now, the last question I have to those who face seeping problem:
Looking from outside the tank (assuming it stands vertically), which area is covered by the seeping?
If the knurling ring (component on the left side of ricks photo) is covered by the escaping juice, then it has nothing to do with the o-ring as pinpointed by ricks's photo.
I'm pretty sure the seeping is on the bottom of the base with trolldragon and alterego. In between the bottom of the base and afc gap if you trurn your tank so you are looking at the bottom 510 and base.
I'm always surprised by the variations in experience with these tanks (not just the Merlin) and I guess it is a matter of how these are assembled to be offered at relatively low price points. On the one hand it's infuriating when you have a product that's leaking but others are just fine with. OTOH, we're getting some well performing tanks at bargain prices. I guess it's all a trade off.
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