Milled catch cups and oversized atomizers

[ukeman]

Man i wish i had the new kit…

I want to see how the new spring Rob has cooked up feels… yeah feels… between the type of firing pin and new spring the new Grand feels "sprongy"… lots of give at top and bottom.
Anybody get that with a new Reo? (not counting pdibs and gang with the fuse bottom contact; its solid)
My older one not at all…

Can't really say how i like the Cyclone with AFC as i need more time to work with it … so used to the single coil RM2 and nonAFC Cyclone…
Its a different animal… and i'm thinking until the kit comes out, i wont really be able to put it through its paces at reall low ohms… (sub .5 or .6 )

It's like opening a whole new can o worms….

The old Grand and RM2 at .50 ohms right now,,, oh so sweet.

Looking forward to what pdibs and the modders do with (this milled drip well) new toppers thing… where's xobe?

 

[pdib]

xobe is getting hitched.

 

[jaytongret]

I'm planning on ordering a grand in January. I will have Rob mill my catch Cup so I can mod a double cross atty to run it

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk

 

[pdib]

Here's a IGO-W on tank with a twisted 30g thing going on. .4Ω

It's fundy, but it ain't Mundy. Flavor is missing some of the middle part. Good enough to vape, tho.





The IGO-W is a good one, given the price. It's all stainless (posts too), very easy to work with, and (IMO) looks pretty good on there.

 

[pdib]

If you're like me and don't have access to a drill press, there's another method.

Remove the center post with pliers. Cut a channel down the length of the center post (be careful not to penetrate into the threads inside) with a Dremel and one of these:

Reinstall the center post. Commence squonkage.

I've used this method with great results on Era clones and an Igo-S.

Yep. Glad you mentioned that, Facemeat. I just got me that little dremel setup to try and resurrect the f-ed up original Nimbus post. Cut a channel, nevermind that there's a drill bit broken off in there . . . . it'll be fine.

Let us know how it turns out Peter!

So, I cut a channel up the Nimbus' original centerpost and reinstalled it. Not so good. In this instance, it seems the centerpost needs it's full circumference in the bottom insulator to provide enough tension/friction to keep it from spinning freely. So I went to go put a coil in it, and as I turned the screw to clamp down the positive wire, the whole post started spinning and pulling my coil along with it. I tried tightening down the atty as far as I could; but it would still turn some, and I started getting iffy readings on the ohmmeter (meaning, I had it tightened down so hard before the post spun less freely, that I was worried about shorting out in the 510). Maybe I could have gotten away with a channel of smaller width and found the balance point of sufficient material removal for juice flow VS enough material left for post tensioning. If so, I'm gonna say that's a tricky game. So the IGO post is back in there, and all is well.

 

[pdib]

This, right here, is very good. I'm not ready to call it the best build I've ever vaped; but it may just be the best build I've ever vaped. . . . . . it's very good.

One side features our dear Mr. Mundy's Magic twisted ribbon wire, with a little nub of Treebeard style organic cotton nestled in it. (pretty much only ever wick with this stuff anymore.) Side number two is René41 with some fancy organic hemp that gdeal sent me. (the hemp doesn't catch all the flavors of my Lemonade; but it certainly highlights the tartness, and the tangy mouthwatering aspects.) We talkin' full flavor here, kids. And, ringing in at about 0.3Ω . . . . . it's a satisfying vape.

 

[ukeman]

omg pdib, just when i thought… "what more?" … mongrel dual coils… do they both come in at .7 ohms or does it matter they be equatable?

 

[pdib]

I made a sincere effort to make two 7.5Ω coils. The René is gonna heat faster than the MM, even if they're equal (which was kinda the point, quicker heat up time than the dual Mundus). I really don't think it's critical for them to be equal. We were playing with dual coils of different gauges (purposely diff. resist.) with Jerms and Statistic, and . .. . it works like that too.


btw; I can't take credit for thinking of using completely different wire types . . . . IIRC it was Turbocad who suggested it to me. The different wicking materials, tho . . . . . . that's my genius maneuver.

 

[ukeman]

mr pdibs….
not a b/f but a clone FT dripper with dual air holes, pretty nice rather small chamber, and i'll just say practicing for the Cyclone/Reo dual dealie…
One has cotton and one hemp… flavor is great yes… 2x 26g nichrome 9wraps = .40 ohms
- coil ID? its a luer needle probably about 5/64…. wondering if you'd recommend 1/16 or .55mm?

 

[custom-classic]

Ordered ma cyclone with afc last night. 'Twill be here Monday. Lookin' forward ta gettin' it and tryin' some o this fancy dual coil bidness...

 

[MamaTried]

this old man been thinking of hiring a maid to help me with day-to-day stuff....

now, i'm thinking i gotta find one who can also wrap MunDibby coils...

 

[pdib]

mr pdibs….
not a b/f but a clone FT dripper with dual air holes, pretty nice rather small chamber, and i'll just say practicing for the Cyclone/Reo dual dealie…
One has cotton and one hemp… flavor is great yes… 2x 26g nichrome 9wraps = .40 ohms
- coil ID? its a luer needle probably about 5/64…. wondering if you'd recommend 1/16 or .55mm?

Looks like you've got 8/9 wraps on those, Uke. When I was doing 8 wraps of N 26 on 1/16", I was getting ~.5Ω. . . . . So, If you did .55" (right?), and got <.5Ω, you'd be looking at about a .2Ω build. Also, my experience with single N26 coils, if your ID gets too small, it's gonna dry up on you before you finish a toot. So . . .. 1/16". (which, btw, is very, very, very low res.)

 

[Treebeard]

Ordered ma cyclone with afc last night. 'Twill be here Monday. Lookin' forward ta gettin' it and tryin' some o this fancy dual coil bidness...

I love my Cyclone AFC in single coil mode but didn't have much luck with duals (28ga @ .8Ω combined).

I'll have to revisit the dual coils but it was a slow heat up and didn't produce the vapor that I'm used to even on my Touchwood mod which really delivers the power. Probably can attribute it to user error but it seems like the battery isn't supplying enough power for dual coils. Watching the vapor coming off the coils was like, meh *sigh**shrug*paint drying*.

Single coil and single hole mode is amazing tho. The kicker is that the hole has to be on the right side of the slit to work well. I have no idea why.

Gonna try dibby's mongrel coils just for the fun of it (never would have thought of it) but I know I can't go .3Ω "dibby style" on a stock reo Gonna shoot for .5-.6Ω.

I don't have high hopes cause my experience with duals (.8-.7Ωish) on 3.7 battery hasn't been great so far. Maybe just expected too much.

*Any tips on dual coils, Mr. Bee-dib? Mine looked a lot like uke's in #29 only a little higher in resistance.*

 

[pdib]

Well now, here's my thoughts. You need you some thinner wire. A single 1.6Ω coil built from 28 is gonna be slow to heat. (two of those is a lot of wire X 2) If I wanted to build a 1.6Ω coil, I'd use 29g. If I were gonna ask my battery to heat 2 of them at once, I might even use 30g. Also, you could use Nichrome (less wire mass per resistance). If you were to use 30g Nichrome, that would be the equivalent of 29 Kanthal, and there would be less wire mass to heat up.

 

[Treebeard]

Well now, here's my thoughts. You need you some thinner wire. A single 1.6Ω coil built from 28 is gonna be slow to heat. (two of those is a lot of wire X 2) If I wanted to build a 1.6Ω coil, I'd use 29g. If I were gonna ask my battery to heat 2 of them at once, I might even use 30g. Also, you could use Nichrome (less wire mass per resistance). If you were to use 30g Nichrome, that would be the equivalent of 29 Kanthal, and there would be less wire mass to heat up.

I've been using the Nichrome 60 28ga for single coils and haven't melted any lately *off the same roll* (remember that?). I like it better than Kanthal.

It I were to order some Nchrom 30ga for duals, should it be 60 or 80 or does it even matter? What would pdib do?

 

[pdib]

I've always been happy with the 60. A long time ago, I read something about how somebody couldn't tell the difference anyway, and I was fine with the 60 . . . so, hey. (Yeah, I remember your Nichrome Fukushima)

 

[custom-classic]

Waitin' on my Cyclone to be delivered Monday. Had to try some duals in anticipation. Igo-w, 32g quad twisted kanthal A-1, .3ish ohms.














My lungs hurt...

 

[pdib]

you got some tight quads, homes.

 

[custom-classic]

Thanks pdib!!! It's no Mundy's Magic, but at least I finally found a use for the 100ft. of 32g I've had layin' around for a while.

 

[ukeman]

Looks like you've got 8/9 wraps on those, Uke. When I was doing 8 wraps of N 26 on 1/16", I was getting ~.5Ω. . . . . So, If you did .55" (right?), and got <.5Ω, you'd be looking at about a .2Ω build. Also, my experience with single N26 coils, if your ID gets too small, it's gonna dry up on you before you finish a toot. So . . .. 1/16". (which, btw, is very, very, very low res.)

I always have a hard time counting… maybe its the long legs or something but it has gotten pretty darn good as is… maybe long legs got it to .40 but thanks … yeah 'cause its more than 1/16th and they hold juice long enough to vaporize well. I see the logic.

this $6 atty is pretty nice with the dual airholes… it seems to have a screw for a pos. at the connector, but i'm not going to drill it anyway.

the Cyclone afc requires fiddling with the air holes to get it right and thats another step in the process lol… waiting for Robs kit to really work that one.

fwiw: who'd a thunk i would need as much MNKE or high amp 18650's as i do now lol.

but with different batt lengths, we'll see how the kit's "new spring" fits and settle on best batt.
with sub ohms i don't worry as much about the pin as i do the spring. the existing spring gets hot