Milled catch cups and oversized atomizers

[pdib]

BTW: this is exactly why more people don't have a drill press. Y'all don't see a good excuse to buy one when it's staring you in the face. It's a lifetime investment . . .. and not very expensive for a little 12" benchtop jobber. 1/2 the reason I have the tools I do is cause I don't pass up a good excuse! (the other half is cause I earn my living with them)


(the third half is cause I HAVE TO make stuff . . . . . MUST . . .. MAKE . .. MORE . . .STUFF!)

 

[custom-classic]

Note to self: Get hot neighbor lady to pour beer down throat at regular intervals so I can focus.

 

[custom-classic]

BTW: this is exactly why more people don't have a drill press. Y'all don't see a good excuse to buy one when it's staring you in the face. It's a lifetime investment . . .. and not very expensive for a little 12" benchtop jobber. 1/2 the reason I have the tools I do is cause I don't pass up a good excuse! (the other half is cause I earn my living with them)


(the third half is cause I HAVE TO make stuff . . . . . MUST . . .. MAKE . .. MORE . . .STUFF!)

I like the way you think!!!

I've been lookin' at this one for a while: Shop PORTER-CABLE 8-Amp 12-Speed Drill Press at Lowes.com

Just need to bite the bullet.

 

[redeyedancer]

I like the way you think!!!

I've been lookin' at this one for a while: Shop PORTER-CABLE 8-Amp 12-Speed Drill Press at Lowes.com

Just need to bite the bullet.

The best part is it has a Depth adjustment that actually works .

 

[custom-classic]

The best part is it has a Depth adjustment that actually works .

That right there is all the encouragement I needed to push me over the edge.
Only problem I've been having lately is, I tend to look at the cost of things in terms of, how many more Reos could I buy for that???
I should probably stop doin' that.

 

[pdib]

Oh, well now your getting all fancy! 5'4'' tall. That's a full size puppy. Planning on making a 4-poster bed or something?

 

[turbocad6]

yeah, I drill from the top down through the threads when drilling by hand and from the bottom up on the drill press or mill. from the top down by hand you won't ruin the threads as long as you don't reach for... yeah... what he said

once you start the hole you won't damage the threads even if you touch them slightly with the bit. you could touch them a whole lot more than you'd think without affecting the functionality of the threads, hell you'd have to try really hard to damage them beyond use, just try to stay relatively straight and use the threads as your guide


1) mark and measure bit so you know when you're almost through and ease up at the end

2) firm pressure and as slow as possible

3) lube and a good bit. carbide or at least hss

most of the time the hardest thing is holding the post from spinning as you get deeper, def remove from atty if ss, brass you could try it in the atty if you really wanted to I guess, it might work but SS you def need to pop it out and clamp it better. I usually can pop it out with a bigger needle nose pliers, one jaw on the atty base off to one side of the 510 and the other right at the top of the post and squeeze, usually pops out without a problem. before removing it measure exactly where you want your feed hole I've done a few just above the deck but now I do them right at the deck level and the bottom of my feed hole extends slightly into the insulator. this allows as much suck back as possible, like the rm2, stock some of them are above the deck but then this doesn't suck back all excess and leaves a more wet deck, more excess fluid, I prefer as low as possible

I use a 1/16th bit, any smaller and you're really risking breaking it in ss without a drill press.


after the center hole you then hav to drill your side hole, drilling the side of a tiny round stainless steel cylinder is difficult even in a press but by hand it can be almost impossible, what I do is fire up the dremel with a cut off wheel and flatten out a spot on the side of the shaft where I want my hole. this will make the metal thinner there and also give you a flat spot that you can then center a drill on, you can actually open the hole all the way with just the cuttoff wheel too, wind up being more of a slot than a hole but works just as well

 

[pdib]

Yeah, I have a feather file, and I pinch the post w/ thumb and finger, use my thumb end as a "fence"/guide for the file, and riff it a couple times. That makes a little groove to start the drill bit in. (for the side hole)

 

[ukeman]

you know they sell a b/f Cyclone don't you?

The Cyclone has landed!!!

View attachment 276632

View attachment 276634

View attachment 276635

View attachment 276636

Haven't had a chance to build it yet. Just had to see what it looked like on my chopped top custom.
I still need to convert it to bf. Tryin' to decide whether to drill the center post or just dremel juice channels on both sides of the post...

 

[turbocad6]

to do bf cyclone you have to buy the bf cyclone and then the afc separately, costs a lot more, they only sell the combo with the airflow cap package as non bttom feed, and the factory bf cyclone has the feed hole like 2mm above the deck so no complete drain back, you'd have to drill the side anyway to get complete drain back or settle for the wet deck as-is on the factory bf cyclone

 

[pdib]

Well, I, for one, have no interest in partial drain-back and a wet deck!

 

[ukeman]

doh!… details and me, like diy tools, we don't get along too well. but thats right; i had to buy the AFC by itself. leaves me with an extra stock Cyclone cap, pretty as it is.

- waiting for the kit before i give mine some serious use and the RM2 on my stock Grand is one kick ... unit .

do y'all find it more challenging to get the juice to taste as good with dual air holes?
a good thing about the AFC is you can adjust the air volume though.

 

[pdib]

what I've been doing with dual opposed air holes (early in the game yet) is thinking of them as individual coils in a larger chamber. So, I'm building a dual to net, lets say, .4Ω; but each coil is only .8Ω. With a .4 I would want a 1.4mm hole; however with a .8, I'm wanting a 1.2 (1.25mm) air hole. So, for me, 2 smaller airholes are doing well by the flavor.

 

[Crash Moses]

Ditto. Just as much flavor with the adjustable air flow control. It really helps to be able to dial in the hole size based on your coil setup.

And for the record, I LIKE partial drain-back and a wet deck. More hits between squonks.

 

[pdib]

As long as you don't care what people think . . . . what, with the wet spot and all . . . more power to ya', C-Mo!!!


(Are we talking about the same thing? I'm beginning to wonder.)

 

[turbocad6]

ha, I'm guessing that's the thoughts behind the raised feed hole to begin with, but the cyclone air holes are so low in the afc that I wind up having my coils just hovering over the deck maybe .5mm off the deck and I find that with a wet deck with juice pooled under the coil it doesn't vape as nicely, I find the vape is better when the coil isn't sitting in a pool of juice and when air can flow above and below the coil. if I raise the coils a bit I get a harsher vape because the airholes are so low in the cap.

I have another atty that I use on a different device, the a6s, and that one has a deck with a juice well and holds some juice on the deck but that one I made the side airhole a bit higher and my coil sits ~2mm off the deck and that one there is no drawbacks to the wet deck...

 

[custom-classic]

Welp, I finally got 'er done.













Big thanks to turbocad and pdib for the advice on how to tackle this little project. I basically followed turbos method, outlined in post #67. Bench vice, soft jaws, Dewalt cordless drill, 1/16th" drill bit, wd-40, compressed air, slow and steady. Worked like a charm.

 

[Crash Moses]

ha, I'm guessing that's the thoughts behind the raised feed hole to begin with, but the cyclone air holes are so low in the afc that I wind up having my coils just hovering over the deck maybe .5mm off the deck and I find that with a wet deck with juice pooled under the coil it doesn't vape as nicely, I find the vape is better when the coil isn't sitting in a pool of juice and when air can flow above and below the coil. if I raise the coils a bit I get a harsher vape because the airholes are so low in the cap.

I have another atty that I use on a different device, the a6s, and that one has a deck with a juice well and holds some juice on the deck but that one I made the side airhole a bit higher and my coil sits ~2mm off the deck and that one there is no drawbacks to the wet deck...

I have to agree with you there (well...I don't have to...but I want to). But those dual coils suck juice up so fast the deck doesn't stay wet for long...especially with a nice big bed of cotton on the back side of the atty.

Welp, I finally got 'er done.


Big thanks to turbocad and pdib for the advice on how to tackle this little project. I basically followed turbos method, outlined in post #67. Bench vice, soft jaws, Dewalt cordless drill, 1/16th" drill bit, wd-40, compressed air, slow and steady. Worked like a charm.

Nice! I just ordered a Patriot...I might have to give this a whirl.

(Are we talking about the same thing? I'm beginning to wonder.)

I certainly hope so...or maybe not.

Dang.

What was the question?

 

[Xobeloot]

Finally caught up on this! As much as I'd love to mod my Trident to run on a reo, I really don't want to shave any of my current mods and ruin the finishes.

 

[turbocad6]

ahh, perfect excuse for a family addition