Milled catch cups and oversized atomizers

[turbocad6]

the latest thing in coils I've been playing with is long coils with thinner wire and many wraps. first time I really liked it was in the cyclone with dual 17's . at the time I thought maybe it was too much and went with less wraps but it was never quite as good as it was with the 17 wrap duals . I've been trying some other things and for me now long coils is so good, this is a 50+ wrap dual that just kicks .... heats up in 2 seconds at only 12 watts and gives such a great tasting vape full rich thick tasty vapor, I just replaced my dna chip in the reo and want to build a 20+ each wrap dual in there now









only thing is these long coils really need vv/vw, they's be dead on a mech at 3.7v

 

[pdib]

You know T-cad, people in India are bathing cold water. . . . . not sayin', just sayin'.

 

[turbocad6]

yeah, and people in dubai are gold plating there Bugatti's

 

[pdib]

What I meant (in an absurd joking fashion) was, sheeyit! You got enough coil on their to draw a hot bath with!

 

[turbocad6]

oh I thought you meant I was wasting too much wire

I just picked up an imortalizer in the classies, gonna see what it takes to mod it to run that on the reo, I love the cyclone and don't think it can beat it but for some reason I just want to try it here anyway if it works well then I'm going to need another reo stat, not a reostat, a reo stat.... hmm, you know what I mean

 

[turbocad6]

not sure I can even get the immortalizer to work on the reo with it's funky air paths which is why I want to get one to see

 

[MikeWhy]

Frankenatty! Nice!
Allen Posts would be so awesome. I keep stripping the Phillips screws on my RMs. Keeping them from drifting out with thicker wire has become a pain and torquing down on them has me stripping so often that I am kind of avoiding coil builds right now.

Search Amazon for Wiha System 4 28mm long #00 Phillips bits. Grab a #0 also if you're feeling flush. The crappy mini screwdrivers they sell in vape shops don't fit anything. They're cut too steep, too sharp for Phillips heads. I carry that and a 2mm flat head bit in a coin purse. Along with nail clippers, tweezers, and a cotton ball remnant. You never know when you might want a manicure, pluck an eyebrow, our smooth some eye shadow. You won't need handles for the bits. Over torquing is too big a hazard as it is.

 

[custom-classic]

The Cyclone has landed!!!









Haven't had a chance to build it yet. Just had to see what it looked like on my chopped top custom.
I still need to convert it to bf. Tryin' to decide whether to drill the center post or just dremel juice channels on both sides of the post...

 

[pdib]

I'm drilling whenever possible from here on in. I don't know if you saw, CustomC, where I channeled one side of my Nimbus post and that took enough friction out of the post/insulator area to where the post spins freely now. I took it out and replaced with a shorter IGO-S post. NOT into spinny posts when I want to tighten down the + screw.

 

[Treebeard]

The Cyclone has landed!!!

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Haven't had a chance to build it yet. Just had to see what it looked like on my chopped top custom.
I still need to convert it to bf. Tryin' to decide whether to drill the center post or just dremel juice channels on both sides of the post...

I drill juice channels on the cheapie drippers but I'm afraid to on the C.AFC. Let us know what you decided to do and alllllllllllll the particulars.....ok?

 

[custom-classic]

I'm drilling whenever possible from here on in. I don't know if you saw, CustomC, where I channeled one side of my Nimbus post and that took enough friction out of the post/insulator area to where the post spins freely now. I took it out and replaced with a shorter IGO-S post. NOT into spinny posts when I want to tighten down the + screw.

Dangit, forgot about that. Thanks for the reminder. My problem then is I don't have a drill press. 3 drills but no press. I'd hate to risk freehandin' it. I could put it in the soft jaws on my bench vise and try it, I reckon. I'm really not sure how I've made it this far in life without a dang drill press though. Might be time to get one...

I drill juice channels on the cheapie drippers but I'm afraid to on the C.AFC. Let us know what you decided to do and alllllllllllll the particulars.....ok?

Will do Tree.

 

[turbocad6]

I have a drill press and I still do my atty shafts with a hand drill, as long as you can drill down from the top it's so easy that no need to even bother setting it up in the press, just drill it out... biggest thing to be aware of is as the bit breaks through the end it has a high chance of catching and breaking so mark the bit just short of the length, then when you get close to the mark ease up and drill with very little pressure... a little lube helps too I always lube ss as I drill it, tranny fluid motor oil or even wd40 spray can do in a pinch but I use cutting oil and drill SLOW, can't stress this enough, make that drill crawl, you almost can't go too slow but it's very easy to go too fast, too fast heats up and work hardens the stainless, at high speed you'll wind up burning through and struggling where at very low speed it cuts through much better

 

[Treebeard]

I have a drill press and I still do my atty shafts with a hand drill, as long as you can drill down from the top it's so easy that no need to even bother setting it up in the press, just drill it out... biggest thing to be aware of is as the bit breaks through the end it has a high chance of catching and breaking so mark the bit just short of the length, then when you get close to the mark ease up and drill with very little pressure... a little lube helps too I always lube ss as I drill it, tranny fluid motor oil or even wd40 spray can do in a pinch but I use cutting oil and drill SLOW, can't stress this enough, make that drill crawl, you almost can't go too slow but it's very easy to go too fast, too fast heats up and work hardens the stainless, at high speed you'll wind up burning through and struggling where at very low speed it cuts through much better

Being a greasy gumba, I have plenty olive oil. Do ya think I can substitute it?!!

 

[turbocad6]

sure, should be fine... you should be going slow enough that you won't see much smoke but an oil like that might smoke a little and your atty post will start to smell like an italian salad but it'll do fine, hell even water is better than running it dry

 

[pdib]

I was wondering about the following. The channel method. Some of these atties, especially the cheapie ones from a few months ago (i.e. older) have the soft "silicone" insulator in them. Some of the newer/better ones have a hard white plastic insulator. I'm thinking, maybe, the channel works in the soft because the rubbery nature of it sort of grabs the channel edges; whereas in the hard insulator, nothing deflects and the circle ain't unbroken, so spinniness occurs.

 

[Treebeard]

sure, should be fine... you should be going slow enough that you won't see much smoke but an oil like that might smoke a little and your atty post will start to smell like an italian salad but it'll do fine, hell even water is better than running it dry

Hey, that gives me an idea....Maybe I'll mix a 50/50 e-juice with a little balsamic, olive oil and sweet homemade Italian wine and run with it. Could work....

 

[Treebeard]

I'm drilling whenever possible from here on in. I don't know if you saw, CustomC, where I channeled one side of my Nimbus post and that took enough friction out of the post/insulator area to where the post spins freely now. I took it out and replaced with a shorter IGO-S post. NOT into spinny posts when I want to tighten down the + screw.

Ahhh, I remember like it was only yesterday.

 

[Treebeard]

I was wondering about the following. The channel method. Some of these atties, especially the cheapie ones from a few months ago (i.e. older) have the soft "silicone" insulator in them. Some of the newer/better ones have a hard white plastic insulator. I'm thinking, maybe, the channel works in the soft because the rubbery nature of it sort of grabs the channel edges; whereas in the hard insulator, nothing deflects and the circle ain't unbroken, so spinniness occurs.

I bought a batch of 5 several months ago and they all have the hard plastic insulator. I haven't had a problem with the positive post twisting after carving a channel. Just problems with the neg posts falling out on a few of them.

 

[custom-classic]

I have a drill press and I still do my atty shafts with a hand drill, as long as you can drill down from the top it's so easy that no need to even bother setting it up in the press, just drill it out... biggest thing to be aware of is as the bit breaks through the end it has a high chance of catching and breaking so mark the bit just short of the length, then when you get close to the mark ease up and drill with very little pressure... a little lube helps too I always lube ss as I drill it, tranny fluid motor oil or even wd40 spray can do in a pinch but I use cutting oil and drill SLOW, can't stress this enough, make that drill crawl, you almost can't go too slow but it's very easy to go too fast, too fast heats up and work hardens the stainless, at high speed you'll wind up burning through and struggling where at very low speed it cuts through much better

Excellent!!!
Will try.
What size bit do you recommend?
Do you suggest removing the post from the atty to drill it or leave it in?
One last question, do you drill from top down or from bottom up? Kinda worried about marring the threads going top down.

 

[pdib]

He's gonna say you must go top down. once the tip of the bit has bitten into the material at the bottom of the threaded section, it'll "self-avoid" the threads. (just don't reach for your beer while you're supposed to be focusing)