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was the total cost mentioned anywhere? looks like a fun project if it doesnt cost a ton 
Well I'll be....learn something new every day
I hadn't realized
What's going on in that picture?
That is tint that is already on the screen. Which if I understand correctly, mamu peels off if she uses other tint on the inside of the plex face. That way the screen isn't double tinted and hard to see.
I performed the surgery on both of my dna boards and it appeared to go well. Thanks again Mamu, you are a wealth of knowledge! I am building a Milo and a Milo Sr. (In a 1590B enclosure), all that is left is epoxying the buttons and making sure all the connections work before I shove it all in there.
By the way, do you have any suggestions for a quality 13/64" drill bit? I purchased a cobalt tip from amazon by Bosch but it died on me two holes in. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
so im a bit discouraged and want some opinions. I purchased a dna20 and charging board 2nd hand (new) pretty cheap. Got 2 battery boxes, batteries, connectors, buttons ect and started to build today. Building along the lines of Milo but using 26650 battery and a 2C box. Got everything cut out of the box, everything mounted and the part that i was most scared of was soldiering the wires to the dna board. Got it done no sweat! Purchased one of the screen bezel from shape ways and started to configure mounting the dna board. Literally everything else was done, except hooking up the wires and i noticed the one corner of the screen was sitting crooked. So i gave it a little push and snapped the screen in half . ...... that i put 3 hours into it at that point i hooked everything up to see how and if it would work, and using a 510 meter i fired the mod. It worked - the up and down buttons worked and charger worked. So bummed. At that point i noticed that it would not stop firing - the spring then collapsed. I took it all apart and found a short on the button. Hooked it all back up, stretched out the spring (for testing only, would replace for final build) and now it wont fire. I get the psst, psst, psst fire like the kick does when battery is dead so i plugged in the charger. Got a green light. Every time i then pushed the fire button the light would change to red but i kept getting the psst, psst, psst.
My question to all you "Professional/Amateur" modders is should i even wast another $50 on another dna board? Do you think that it was not firing because the board went bad or something else in my build? Do you think the charging board is ok?
Im highly discouraged, i have about $100 into what i have right now, should i dump another $50 into it?
. ...... that i put 3 hours into it at that point i hooked everything up to see how and if it would work, and using a 510 meter i fired the mod. It worked - the up and down buttons worked and charger worked. So bummed. At that point i noticed that it would not stop firing - the spring then collapsed. I took it all apart and found a short on the button. Hooked it all back up, stretched out the spring (for testing only, would replace for final build) and now it wont fire. I get the psst, psst, psst fire like the kick does when battery is dead so i plugged in the charger. Got a green light. Every time i then pushed the fire button the light would change to red but i kept getting the psst, psst, psst. My question to all you "Professional/Amateur" modders is should i even wast another $50 on another dna board? Do you think that it was not firing because the board went bad or something else in my build? Do you think the charging board is ok?
Im highly discouraged, i have about $100 into what i have right now, should i dump another $50 into it?
Sorry to hear this, crispysaturn. Contact Evolv, tell them about the cracked display and ask about a replacement. Evolv has been super great in replacing these boards at no cost if you send the old board to them, so it never hurts to at least ask.
I'm not sure about the psst you're referring to, but double-check the fire button, or replace it.
I'm not sure about the psst you're referring to, but double-check the fire button, or replace it.
Ill shoot them an email - don't think they should have to fix my error, but its worth a try i guess.
The psst im talking about is it will fire stop fire stop fire stop really quickly like having a dead battery.
The psst im talking about is it will fire stop fire stop fire stop really quickly like having a dead battery.
Thanks again for all the help guys, I was able to get my Milo Sr. working as intended
, I know the wires are a mess but I didn't realize until after I heat-shrunk that they were a bit too long =]. In terms of the plexi door though, what would be the best way to cut it? I have access to a dremel and that is about it, I tried to cut a door for the regular Milo but the results were less than savory. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Also how do I keep my soldered wires from snapping off? On my other board, it seems like the soldered wired will break off right above the solder point if I flex it too much. I have resorted to some hot glue for strain relief, but I am sure there has to be a better way =]. Thanks again for all the help and the DNA20 vapes like a beast!
Also how do I keep my soldered wires from snapping off? On my other board, it seems like the soldered wired will break off right above the solder point if I flex it too much. I have resorted to some hot glue for strain relief, but I am sure there has to be a better way =]. Thanks again for all the help and the DNA20 vapes like a beast!
I am looking for someone to make me a DNA 20 mod. I have one that is dual 18650 with a charging port that doesn't leave my side. I can vape all day from dusk to dawn without charging. I am looking for someone to make me one, since I have never soldered anything in my life and am pretty sure I would just be throwing money away. Would any of you be interested in making and selling me one? Might be in the wrong thread, but I appreciate the help. I have bought a lot of the single 18650 DNA, but am not able to charge all of the time due to long hours. Thanks, Glen
so it's just a darkening filter for the actual display??? Geez, didn't notice that either.
how much brighter does the display become, then? I'd be curious to see a pic of it lit w/o the black filter...
thanks Mamu!
how much brighter does the display become, then? I'd be curious to see a pic of it lit w/o the black filter...
thanks Mamu!
Thanks again for all the help guys, I was able to get my Milo Sr. working as intended, I know the wires are a mess but I didn't realize until after I heat-shrunk that they were a bit too long =]. In terms of the plexi door though, what would be the best way to cut it? I have access to a dremel and that is about it, I tried to cut a door for the regular Milo but the results were less than savory. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Also how do I keep my soldered wires from snapping off? On my other board, it seems like the soldered wired will break off right above the solder point if I flex it too much. I have resorted to some hot glue for strain relief, but I am sure there has to be a better way =]. Thanks again for all the help and the DNA20 vapes like a beast!
Where do u get the 2x18650 battery holder?
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mamu thank for this thread !
absolutely fantastic ..got more ideas from this than any other.
working on a homebuild case in carbon fiber ...and one in glass with leather cover.. build the router table to make the form for it.
the lexan cover will slide in ....trying to get the dna20 but they are still sold out ...like to have it in hand to layout the mod .
absolutely fantastic ..got more ideas from this than any other.
working on a homebuild case in carbon fiber ...and one in glass with leather cover.. build the router table to make the form for it.
the lexan cover will slide in ....trying to get the dna20 but they are still sold out ...like to have it in hand to layout the mod .
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