I'm waiting to buy 3 myself. I emailed them and they said they should be back in stock on 9/14.
Hmm, did I possibly just screw myself letting that out?
But I did find another site that sells them for a bit more. House of Vapor has them for $47.50
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I'm waiting to buy 3 myself. I emailed them and they said they should be back in stock on 9/14.
Hmm, did I possibly just screw myself letting that out?
But I did find another site that sells them for a bit more. House of Vapor has them for $47.50
thanks azmo for the info ...I think house of vapors were cheper thaan direct ?
they were out to ....so I will order direct when they come in.
they were out to ....so I will order direct when they come in.
The battery holder is from fasttech https://www.fasttech.com/p/1258801. Milo Sr. is finished, although the door is not fitting 100%. I cracked one door since the hole is so close to the edge, does anybody have any recommendations to alleviate this issue? Here he is
.I do have one issue though. With both of the DNAs I built, I am getting random check battery/weak battery messages when the meter shows a full battery. Other than that, the DNA works perfectly. Does anybody have a clue what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I had this same issue with Sam and using the batt contacts that came with the case. I switched out those batt contacts and used Keystone's C and D size low contact resistance battery contacts.
Hi Mamu, thanks for the reply! It is really weird, sometimes I see the messages and sometimes I do not, but it usually occurs when I wake the device up and not when I am actively vaping. I will check out the contacts though so thanks for that tip. Do you have any idea of why it might happen to the Milo though? My solder joints to the lipo look good, as well as the joint to the fuses as well. Both devices work great but the error messages have got me worried...
When the DNA20D has been inactive it goes into sleep mode, so getting a "check battery" or "weak battery" message is normal behavior when you activate the DNA20D from its sleep mode. It just takes a few micro secs for it to fully awaken and read the batt status.
From the DNA20D datasheet:
mamu what are keystone battery contacts ? are they springs ? where did you get them ?
finely found dna 20 and got two coming .also found some nice tactile switches on ebay got them in to day.
[ tactile high reliabily push botton switch] normaly open about 7.50 incl shipping.for 8 of them. very nice .
finely found dna 20 and got two coming .also found some nice tactile switches on ebay got them in to day.
[ tactile high reliabily push botton switch] normaly open about 7.50 incl shipping.for 8 of them. very nice .
Do a google search for "Keystone battery contacts". For larger sized batteries, like the 18500 and 18650 and 26650, I would choose the C and D size. digikey, arrow, newark, mouser has them in stock.
Where did you find the boards? I've been stalking Evolv for weeks. They told me they would be in on the 14th and still nothing. Now they are not even responding to emails.
azmo !
evolve no luck either ...ordered from house of vapor got two for 95.00 free shipping.. scheduled delivery this Friday just got a shipping notice .
evolve no luck either ...ordered from house of vapor got two for 95.00 free shipping.. scheduled delivery this Friday just got a shipping notice .
That's what I was going to do, but I wanted to order from Evolv so I could use Paypal. I'll give it a few more days and see what happens.
hi again mamu
do you do anything for stress relief on the harness ? maybe something like wrapping with cotton thread and epoxy ?
thanks for the info on keystone conectors
do you do anything for stress relief on the harness ? maybe something like wrapping with cotton thread and epoxy ?
thanks for the info on keystone conectors
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "harness", but if you're talking about the cable at the board end - retird had an excellent tip a while back to use super glue and glue that end of the cable to the board. At the other end of the cable - I just be really really careful.
thanks the comeback mamu
jes reading about how delicate the wiring harness from the board to the readout is . evolf is talking about stress releve.
my dna s are coming this Friday . when I figure out where to place the board and the readout I thought I bend it once carfully and protect both pieces with wax paper and hold in place . then reinforce with epoxy . jes the cable only . is that a bad idea ?
laying out everything to build a carbon fiber box around it to fit .
thanks again for your thread and comeback rolf
jes reading about how delicate the wiring harness from the board to the readout is . evolf is talking about stress releve.
my dna s are coming this Friday . when I figure out where to place the board and the readout I thought I bend it once carfully and protect both pieces with wax paper and hold in place . then reinforce with epoxy . jes the cable only . is that a bad idea ?
laying out everything to build a carbon fiber box around it to fit .
thanks again for your thread and comeback rolf
I noticed a bliss attached to some of these Milos, I am wondering if the madvapes 510 connector was used successfully with this?? If not the madvapes 510, which one was used to work with Doc Daves atties?
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Around $90.
I used the madvapes 510 standard connector. The Bliss is compatible with standard 510 connectors.
Thanks to Mamu and others for all the help! My Milo is finally done! Wiring is still a bit messy but I was able to do a square cutout for the micro usb at least. Some words of advice for noobs such as myself: 1) Measure twice and cut once (especially for the door) 2) The battery wires are wrapped in electrical tape to avoid sparks if they accidentally touch 3) Instead of wiring both the DNA board and the buttons you might find it easier to just make longish connections from the DNA and trim the wires as needed to the buttons/atty and 4) Don't get impatient! Modding is fun but can turn into a serious headache if you start to get frustrated.
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Thanks to Mamu and others for all the help! My Milo is finally done! Wiring is still a bit messy but I was able to do a square cutout for the micro usb at least. Some words of advice for noobs such as myself: 1) Measure twice and cut once (especially for the door) 2) The battery wires are wrapped in electrical tape to avoid sparks if they accidentally touch 3) Instead of wiring both the DNA board and the buttons you might find it easier to just make longish connections from the DNA and trim the wires as needed to the buttons/atty and 4) Don't get impatient! Modding is fun but can turn into a serious headache if you start to get frustrated.
Very nice! I hope to start mine before the end of the year. That is if the Evolv site ever comes back up and they get boards in stock. I have everything else I need to make 3 mods and want to get 3 boards.
I would shop elsewhere, but I want to use Paypal and haven't found a site that sells the DNA20 that takes Paypal. So, if anyone has a few chips laying around.................LOL!
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