Mamu posted this a while back in this thread....
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...o-dna20d-mod-step-step-how-9.html#post8771329
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Mamu posted this a while back in this thread....
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...o-dna20d-mod-step-step-how-9.html#post8771329
I found this kit and may give it a try. The power button looks like it may line up with the onboard fire button.
Aluminum Dual USB 5V 1A 1 5A Power Bank 18650 Battery Charger Box for iPhone B | eBay
Aluminum Dual USB 5V 1A 1 5A Power Bank 18650 Battery Charger Box for iPhone B | eBay
Hi there guys, I am trying to build a MILO but with dual 18650s running in parallel instead. I have everything connected and I just wanted to verify that all my connections are working, however when I attempt to power the unit on the screen remains non-responsive. I also tried with the USB charging circuit plugged in to no avail. I am using this battery box https://www.fasttech.com/products/1009/10003498/1258801-218650-battery-holder-case-box and the rest of the parts are the ones that Mamu listed on the PDF. Attached are some pictures of my soldering connections, I am still a beginner so I know my joints are not the best quality, but does anybody have any idea on what is going wrong?
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Thanks for the help!
How did you install your batteries? From the looks of things if you installed the batteries both positive up like the box indicates then both wires are hooked to positive, if you flip one battery then they would be wired in series and that would double the voltage and likely harm the DNA.
- de-solder and remove the black (negative) wire from that positive batt contact. Then run that wire down through the center of the case and solder to the negative plate between the springs.
- connect the 2 positive batt contacts together with either a wire bridge or solder bridge.
I have no idea how to test 2 in parallel to see which one would be bad. Maybe someone who knows can chime in on how to do it.
ETA: I was wondering - did you double-check your wiring and make sure both positive wires of the batts are soldered together properly and both negative wires of the batts are soldered together properly?
If the wiring is aok, then vape off the charge and meter the volts of each batt. Then after fully charging, meter the volts of each batt. That may help to determine which batt is funky. You should most definitely be getting more than 6 hours of vape time for 2, 1200mAh batts in parallel, so something is off there.
- connect the 2 positive batt contacts together with either a wire bridge or solder bridge.
I have no idea how to test 2 in parallel to see which one would be bad. Maybe someone who knows can chime in on how to do it.
ETA: I was wondering - did you double-check your wiring and make sure both positive wires of the batts are soldered together properly and both negative wires of the batts are soldered together properly?
If the wiring is aok, then vape off the charge and meter the volts of each batt. Then after fully charging, meter the volts of each batt. That may help to determine which batt is funky. You should most definitely be getting more than 6 hours of vape time for 2, 1200mAh batts in parallel, so something is off there.
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I would just charge both to full charge and then run each one at a time. It should become fairly obvious, likely the bad battery won't last long at all at 15 watts. I don't remember what the c rating is on those batteries but if you do one at a time you may want to make sure a single battery can handle the 15 watt load and/or reduce wattage for the test.
Yay you bap - good advice as that would be the easiest way to see which one is funky.
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Wyley - Just as a side note....you might want to figure it out sooner than later. A bad cell could ruin the other cell or in an extreme case be unsafe.
Greetings all! I stumbled across this thread last night while looking for something else. I have only been vaping for a couple weeks now, but I am hooked! When I found this thread I didn't know that the components were out there for us to easily build our own VV/VW PV's. I have a background in electronics but have not soldered in quite some time. I will have to practice a bit, but this looks well within my scope of knowledge.
It has been said already, but I cannot express the amount of gratitude to mamu for the knowledge she has shared. The tutorial is absolutely fantastic and very well done. I see many DNA20D mods in my future, so thank you mamu for your contributions.
With that being said, I have a small question. Does anyone know where I could find tactile switches that are more flush mounted. I want my mod to be as sleek as possible with only a very slightly raised button. Also, when I saw this mod, I kept thinking of some sort of button/dial that works like the original iPod. The jog wheel could be used to dial up/down the wattage/voltage while using the center button as the fire button. Obviously, this setup would require placing the button on the back/front of the PV instead of the sides. Anyone have any thoughts?
It has been said already, but I cannot express the amount of gratitude to mamu for the knowledge she has shared. The tutorial is absolutely fantastic and very well done. I see many DNA20D mods in my future, so thank you mamu for your contributions.
With that being said, I have a small question. Does anyone know where I could find tactile switches that are more flush mounted. I want my mod to be as sleek as possible with only a very slightly raised button. Also, when I saw this mod, I kept thinking of some sort of button/dial that works like the original iPod. The jog wheel could be used to dial up/down the wattage/voltage while using the center button as the fire button. Obviously, this setup would require placing the button on the back/front of the PV instead of the sides. Anyone have any thoughts?
I'm using anti-vandal switches on mine. They are pretty flush and I got ones with led ring so the button lights up when you push it.
Thank you for the advice Mamu, the DNA powered on =]. Although I purchased the buttons listed in the PDF, would it be ok to use these switches as well? 3 x Momentary Push Button Switch DC 50V 0 5A Black Knob USA Seller Free SHIP | eBay . Thanks again for all the help!
I have used that type switch on early mods that I made....they will work just fine but they tend to wear out rather quickly....
Yes, that is exactly what I am looking for. The led is an added bonus. Are there any differences in wiring these up since they have an led? Also, would you mind sharing a link for the switches you got? Thanks!
So far, all of the ones I am finding look to be too large for this mod. The length of the switch looks like it wouldn't fit. I'm hoping that there are smaller ones that I haven't found yet.
Here are the ones I got for the up and down buttons. They are 12mm switch. I am not using the same box as in the PDF though.
12mm 12V 3V Metal Push Button Switch w Annular LED Indicator Red Momentary US | eBay
And here is the one I got for the fire button. I got this one with a high button so it's easier to locate and push. It's also 12mm, but I got a flat one in 16mm also. I will use whichever I like best.
Blue LED Light Off on No 3V 12mm Stainless Steel Momentary Push Button Switch | eBay
As for the wiring, all you do is soldier a wire between the LED positive and your normally open post. Then wire the LED negative to the negative side of the battery.
I am definitely using the fire button, and I also ordered the buttons in the PDF for the up and down. So I'll use whatever fits in one of the four cases I bought.
12mm 12V 3V Metal Push Button Switch w Annular LED Indicator Red Momentary US | eBay
And here is the one I got for the fire button. I got this one with a high button so it's easier to locate and push. It's also 12mm, but I got a flat one in 16mm also. I will use whichever I like best.
Blue LED Light Off on No 3V 12mm Stainless Steel Momentary Push Button Switch | eBay
As for the wiring, all you do is soldier a wire between the LED positive and your normally open post. Then wire the LED negative to the negative side of the battery.
I am definitely using the fire button, and I also ordered the buttons in the PDF for the up and down. So I'll use whatever fits in one of the four cases I bought.
Thank you for the response retird, I will use my mouser switches instead.
Mamu, in your PDF you state that when using a tinted cover, one must remove the black transparent piece covering the OLED. If I am interpreting that correctly, I am going to have to physically separate the two plastic pieces that make up the screen? After hearing about how flimsy the DNA screen is I am super-hesitant to do anything around the cable and the screen
. Thanks again for all the help!I didn't say must, I said optional. There are no two plastic pieces, it's the thin black transparent plastic strip adhered to the top of the glass display. With using a tinted cover and with that plastic piece on the display, the display is too dark to see, so I remove it. But if you're not comfortable removing it, or you simply don't want to remove it, then you shouldn't.
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