Only thing connected is the battery and output... Everything else is just bare wires which are free and clear of ground/each other
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oh.....so you only have battery connection and output connections and are using the onboard buttons....that narrows down the issue....the up/down onboard buttons should not be pushed with the fingers from what I understand....but since you do not have auxilliary buttons installed that pretty well narrows it down to the board.....Brandon will take care of ya, just let him know what is going on....maybe ya can post a picture??? later my friend.....
From the 20d spec sheet:
Up/Down buttons:
The small onboard buttons labeled UP and DOWN allow the user to increase or decrease the power level in .1 Watt increments. The onboard tactile switches are waterproof and rated for 300,000 actuations. However, they are designed to always be used with external actuators, not pressed directly with the fingers. Please make sure the actuator presses down on the button only, and does not rotate or drag the top surface. Alternatively, remote normally open type switches or buttons can be attached to the UP and DOWN mounting holes for customization.
From the 20d spec sheet:
Up/Down buttons:
The small onboard buttons labeled UP and DOWN allow the user to increase or decrease the power level in .1 Watt increments. The onboard tactile switches are waterproof and rated for 300,000 actuations. However, they are designed to always be used with external actuators, not pressed directly with the fingers. Please make sure the actuator presses down on the button only, and does not rotate or drag the top surface. Alternatively, remote normally open type switches or buttons can be attached to the UP and DOWN mounting holes for customization.
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If the dna isn't mounted in the enclosure where the on board button could be getting pressed then it sounds like you have something funky going on with the dna itself.
However its been my experience that the dna is pretty solid and issues similar to yours are typically modder inflicted. Trust me, I have self inflicted plenty
.It doesn't take much to cause such an issue, I once had a very fine piece of my stranded wire not get soldered and it migrated over to the ground and caused intermittent issues. So just take a close look at the solder tabs for the up as well as the on board button.
Good point bap.....guess that's what makes modding interesting...never know what ya gonna run into....the ribbon cable/display fragility caused me a bit of grief...he-he...I learned to be very carefull with them....
Thanks for all the help, ladies and gentlemen. Finally got it up, running, working... Its a dream! HOWEVER... Ileft it on the charger all night... Charging board lights up... Both lights are solid,which isnt supposed to happen... Ever... According to the charging board docs. Halfway thru my day im gettimg check battery/weak battery... And the status on the DNA led shows the battery aboit dead. Leads me to believe it wasnt really chargimg last night.... I cant win!
he-he.....that's what makes modding so much fun.....few little bugs to work out......what charging board are you using (I use the evolv charging board)? an overnight charge should have fully charged the battery/batteries...... in my modding of the 20d I ran across one evolv charging board that was defective....batteries were not fully charging and I thought is was a bad battery(can happend also), so I replaced the battery first and still no go....replaced the charging board and all was good....sounds like either the battery/batteries or the charging board (or the wall charger)....how about a few pictures of your build?....ya gotta show it off.....
Is there a particular reason you didn't go with the DNA charger?
You could try running the charger directly to the battery instead of through the DNA.
damn BAP...aren't we quick on the trigger today....same post time....by the way my RSST arrived today.....PLAY-TIME.....
I agree...some eyes on it might not hurt
You could have some battery issues as well....maybe some solder joints coming apart or something.
What was the issue with the button? I'm assuming you got that fixed.
Tac button was doa.... Sured up the connections and the ghost button press went away. Using this charging board. Will troubleshoot when I get home,just wanted to share my frustration w you guys. Could I be getting both errors as a result of a low batt? Or xoes "check battery" really mean battery issue? Sry for this garbled mess of a post,im on my phone. Will post pics when I can
Error Messages
The DNA 20 will indicate a variety of error states.
Check Atomizer: The DNA does not detect an atomizer, or the atomizer has shorted out.
Shorted: The atomizer or wiring are short circuited.
Check Battery: The battery is below 3.1 volts. It probably needs to be charged.]
Weak Battery: The battery sags excessively when firing. This typically means the user is not using a high rate battery, or the battery is old and degraded. It can also mean the battery is not making good contact.
Too Hot: The DNA 20D has onboard temperature sensing. It will shut down and display this message if the internal board temperature becomes excessive.
Too low power setting: The DNA 20D puts out a minimum of 4 volts. With low power settings (7 to 8 watts) and low resistance atomizers (below 2 ohms) the DNA will sometimes be unable to provide a low enough power output to be power regulating. If this is the case, the Ohms display will be flashing. The device will still operate.
......on the charging board....I would highly recommend using the evolv board.....but that's just my preference....
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Does the battery level come up eventually? Its common to see those errors after the first button press after the DNA has been in sleep for awhile. It seems like the the more mah the battery is the longer it takes the DNA to update the display.
Yes it is a normal behavior of the DNA to throw check battery/weak battery as the voltmeter wakes up from sleep. If everything works OK after that and when the device does not go back to sleep, you're good.
I wonder if the DNA board doesn't like the 1A charging? Is that even possible? Anyone use that charger board with the DNA board's inputs?
I wonder if the DNA board doesn't like the 1A charging? Is that even possible? Anyone use that charger board with the DNA board's inputs?
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That's a huge piece of info! It only shows the error when it wakes up... And, now that the battery its dead, I get it again... all signs point to a bad charging board/connection. Not as bad as I had thought!
No, I don't think a 1A input current would affect the DNA20D. I use an 800mA input current charging board in Lexi with no adverse effects with the DNA20D.
I've had a few charging board (Evolv) failures and a few lipo batt failures. Things like that come with the modding territory.
But I trust Evolv's charging board and would recommend that over any other. Plus Evolv's replacement policy gives you assurance that you will be taken care of in cases such is this.
But at this point, it could be either the charging board or the lipo batt as failure to charge could be the cause of a funky unstable batt rather than the charging board. It could have happened when you worked with the batt to desolder the pack and then resolder in parallel, or the batt could have come that way from seller. Those tabs on the lipo batt are touchy sometimes and can be damaged (yes - been there done that
)So be prepared to be able to replace both.
I'd go with replacing the batt first, cuz that's the easiest and you won't damage the batt getting it out of the case so can use again whereas if you have the charging board epoxied in the case it'll be toast once you dremel it out.
I think i'm going to connect the charging board straight to the battery and see if that does anything... easiest thing to do and can tell me if the board is working or not...
Would epoxy on top of a soldered wire/pad joint cause a short? Anything funky/conductive in that stuff? I slathered it on the charging board...
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