MVP 2.0 Battery Change Project

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Same Situation as my Ego VV Thread....

So I am definitely enjoying my MVP 2.0. So much that I went out and bought another one. Unfortunately, one of the reasons that I bought another one is because it doesn't last me a full work day. Three years ago, I used to smoke 3 packs a day, so when I started vaping 3 years ago, I was at 36 mg (yes i know that is dangerously high but it was around). Three years later I am down to a DIY 3 mg e-juice, but it do it heavily now :glare:. Anyways back to the MVP 2.0

So because of the dilemma of battery life, I was looking into opening it up and (if i need to) putting all the "guts" into a different enclosure and throwing in a stronger battery. I did not want to open it up until I have done some research (I have not opened one of mine up yet), so I did what anyone would do in this day and age... I checked out some youtube videos:

Innokin itaste MVP issue - YouTube or search for "Innokin itaste MVP issue" on youtube. The video is by Todd Fatta

This one video caught my attention because to my surprise there are actually two LiPo battery packs contained within the unit (so that is what is making it have a decent weight). Since Innokin lists the device down as having 2600 mah (which I am guessing is really 2200 mah which is what the batteries in the video are). I am guessing that the two batteries in the video are connected in a Series versus a Parallel circuit. In a Series that would mean that the total voltage on both batteries are at approximately 7.4V right? This would explain why it is listed at no big increase in the milliamp/hr of the battery. If it were a Parallel connection it would keep the Volts at approximately 3.7 but the mah 4400 right? (I am getting somewhere please bare with me).

I was considering changing out the batteries to (after more research on what the original batteries were) Turnigy (sp?) 1S 20C (or 40C) 5000 mah batteries. I thought that one would be exactly what I needed, BUT then I thought of WHY it had the batteries in a series. I thought about what the MAX voltage input of the device was. Basically if I had put only one of the replacement batteries in, I don't believe that it would function that way it was suppose to. Does anyone know what Voltage parameters the device needs to function properly? Has anyone done what I am aiming to do? I know there was a modder that replaced his MVP chip with a DNA 20 chip, but that is all I have found. Tips would be greatly appreciated.

*I am actually looking into making my own mods (after having to stay up until 3am my time just to to attempt to buy a DZ D30L from JCMS Vapes only to fail and get my wife ...... off at me for staying up late....) If these to projects I am trying do turn out to be successful then I will jump right into my own DNA 30 mod :)
 
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BJ43

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The MVP uses two lipos in series 7.4v. It is a stepdown regulator and not a boost regulator like the DNAs that increase the 3.7v up. So you will always need two batteries 3.7v in series for the MVP board. Here are 4 cells (2100mAh same as in the MVP) 2 parallel then the two parallel packs in series giving 4200 mAh at 7.4v. This is what I use in my 20amp Raptor weekender.:) Could be used for a very long lasting MVP in a bigger box.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/496018-weekender.html







 
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@ CrackerTeg: The DNA 20 modified MVP was just a bunch of pictures as the person was going through the process, with the end result of the mod having the DNA 20 display on the side. Might have been the same person. Thank you for the reply at least.

@ BJ43: Longer lasting MVP in a bigger box... *drool* That would be my goal. Hopefully to get passed the entire workday (added bonus if it is passed a weekend). So now with the set up that you posted I see what looks like 2 positive leads, and a negative lead? What is the other smaller positive lead used for? When building this sort of set up for a ecig application do you need a balance connector, like in an RC application?
 

BJ43

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@ CrackerTeg: The DNA 20 modified MVP was just a bunch of pictures as the person was going through the process, with the end result of the mod having the DNA 20 display on the side. Might have been the same person. Thank you for the reply at least.

@ BJ43: Longer lasting MVP in a bigger box... *drool* That would be my goal. Hopefully to get passed the entire workday (added bonus if it is passed a weekend). So now with the set up that you posted I see what looks like 2 positive leads, and a negative lead? What is the other smaller positive lead used for? When building this sort of set up for a ecig application do you need a balance connector, like in an RC application?

When batteries are in series they are charged with a balancing charger. the MVPs seem to have a balancing charger. That small positive is for charging. The charger feeds each battery, that is why two poss and a common neg. On my Raptor I charge like in a RC application. In the future I will pull out one of the MVP chargers and try it in another mod.:)
 
Hmmm took the parts long enough... To top that off when I disassembled my MVP, the batteries are tiny. On closer inspection it "looked" like the batteries are connected in a parallel connection, rather than a series there is no Balance Lead in my MVP 2.0, just a Pos and Neg Lead running out of the batteries (i'll post pictures of my MVP when I have the chance). This makes the 7.4V battery that I got from Hobby King not usable with the application :( I guess I'll build a 7.4V Mod :( .

Could this be because of the type of MVP 2.0 that I got? I got one from TECC (which honestly looks like a re-brand) and another one from Innokin. I have no intention of opening my Innokin MVP 2.0 up since I have every intention of selling it.

In terms of the battery change project, i'll prolly just connect it to a battery holder the hold 2 18650s. That should last me all day. Now I just need to wait for those parts.
 
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