My first RDA setup - The Results...

[Mordacai]

Agree with @Don29palms, air will come in from the side and go up. Not down.

This main problem with atomisers is this.

And it's terrible when you're getting your first one, because do you go for the shiny one that looks cool and doesn't neccecarily give you a decent vape or the reasonably well thought out one that gives you a decent vape but doesn't necessarily look as cool.

My first was and still is Thunderhead Creations Tauren SOLO due to reduced chamber volume, airflow hitting the coil from underneath and the sides and having airflow adjustment. And the price and quality are pretty decent as well.

 

[VlKlNGS]

Morning World,

I didn't get a chance to try closing the airflow some @Mordacai as I put a new build in this morning. Wicking I understand is important but as I'm new to this I have no idea who, how or where, yet.
At the moment I'm working with some Cotton Bacon which I got as extra on one of the orders. I find one strip of that is totally impossible to get into a 3mm diameter coil(which all of those are), so I break it down to the point where I can wick 3-4 coils from a single strip. No idea if that's right or wrong, any advice here would be appreciated.

@vikings, you can certainly get a decent vape from a simple single coil.

If you say so... That was the original plan btw, if this first setup worked out I was gonna get another one for indoors that was gonna be single coil for reduced juice consumption and focused more on flavor then clouds. But so far it's not looking good for this plan...
LE: The Tauren Solo was actually at the top of my list for a while for this plan @Mordacai but further google research hinted that the flavor is not that great on that one, and that it's more suited for bigger coils at higher wattages then smaller coils at lower wattages. What's your experience with it, do those statements ring true to you?

So the new build I tried today, I went back to 2 alien claptons at 0.45 each(as I enjoyed that type of coil the most from everything I tried so far) and I built it exactly like in the pictures @greek mule , and... nope!
Didn't help with the heat much, lost a lot of flavor too and the hit isn't as good. Definitely as close as possible to the airholes is the way to go on this atty like @Morgan_Drury recommended in his thread.

Now, ASSUMING I'm gonna decide to sink even more money into this and try to get over my aversion of having to build my own coils, here are some wires I would have easy access to, advise me please which one or two I should pick and what builds I should try with them:
(the first 2 are the ones I would most like to get, but knowing me you're probably gonna say those are exactly the worst to get because then I would get the same results/problems I have now, right?)

- Stagger Fused Clapton SS316L 0.85Ohm/m, (26AWG+32AWG)*2+32AWG;
- SS316L Juggernaut core 2* (SS316L 0.32mm + SS316L 0.1mm), exterior SS316L 0.1mm * SS316L 0.5mm;
- SS316L 0.44mm (25 AWG);
- SS316L 0.39mm (26 AWG);
- SS316L 0.32mm (28 AWG);
- SS316L 0.6mm(no AWG mentioned, but online converter says it would be 23);

Then a couple of 317L SS which I'm guessing I shouldn't use as the manual of my mod only mentions 316L.

And then even 3 titaniums, no idea what's better SS or Ti(maybe a little explanation of how each works?), up to you:

- Ti 0.5mm;
- Ti 0.4mm;
- Ti 0.3mm;

While you choose those please keep in mind I'm gonna need more info on how TC works and how to run it. Back in the day when I first tried it on a Kangertech Topbox you could only adjust the temp, so it was easy enough to figure out.
But now on these newfangled devices it seems that in temp mode besides being able to adjust the temp you can still adjust the wattage, what's that about?

P.S. An even bigger ASSUMING(I'm just too lazy to format another one) what about those mesh RDA's, like the Wotofo Profile for example, would that give a hit more similar to the Luxe 0.2 qf mesh coils? I mean they're both mesh right? And what's the juice consumption like on a mesh rda, is it gonna be significantly higher then on a mesh sub-ohm tank?

P.S.S. Don't missunderstand @Susaz the temp of the actual vapor was never an issue, so there was nothing to get used to in that regard. Even when I tried maxing it out(90W on hard mode with boost at 150% and 2 secs) just to see how big a cloud I could get(it was pretty big and nice and fluffy) the vapor never got uncomfortably hot. If only the damn metal parts of the atty could take a hint from the vapor....

Last P.S.S.S.S.S. I promise. Not gonna do it too often, but I assume that a couple of hits every now and then running it maxed at 90w hard mode with boost set at 150% and 2-3 secs is safe for the single Samsung 30T, right? I mean after all that's why I got that baterry cause you guys said it was better suited for higher wattages.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Titanium cannot be used in wattage mode and must be used in Temperature Control mode.

And to others – just to point out cause I made the same mistake. There are 2 members with the same handle vikings and VIKINGS (note the caps). The former seems to not have longed in a while, but if trying to tag the later, take note of the proper caps.

 

[Don29palms]

The triple core fused claptons you have are not alien coils. As you were told originally, no matter what you do with what you have you will never get the results you're looking for. You are expecting golden results from garbage. Crappy cloud chaser coils won't give you flavor especially out of the junk RDA you have. You are getting the best results for what you have. You were warned. You didn't listen then and you're not listening now.

 

[VlKlNGS]

Yes @Punk In Drublic that much I know about them, that's the idea that if I do it, I would use both/eighter of them in TC mode and see if maybe that way I can keep the heat down while still getting a decent hit?
When I asked for an explanation I meant if you could tell me more about that whole "surface area low mass" stuff that you where talking about as it relates to these 2 materials.

As far as my name goes since the regular was already taken, like you pointed out, I actually made this one with L's instead of i's, that's what matters, not the CAPS.

Loool, you really need to work on your attention spawn @Don29palms , with this post you're 0/3 if memory serves.
Like I said the flavor is quite nice(when I position the coils correctly) and once they ramp up the hit is ok(-ish, still different from the sub-ohm tank, but at least it's something I think I could get used to) with some of them too, the problem is the HEAT!! And that is one aspect that was never mentioned, by anyone, in any of the dozens of replies from the other threads, nor in any of the google/youtube reviews! So how the heck was I supposed to know it would ever even be a factor?!?

Whether or not actual premium alien coils(whatever you mean by that) would be any different I have no idea mate, I'm just using the name because that's what they are labeled as, not trying to imply anthing by doing so.

As far as "you're not listening now eighter" other then giving you a giant list of wires and asking what I should get/how I should build them, I don't know what more you're expecting from me...

 

[Don29palms]

You have no clue why it's getting hot even though you've been told. You don't listen and you won't listen. If you would have taken the good advice given to you before you purchased garbage you wouldn't be having any problems. Good luck to you and I'll just keep laughing at you. Maybe have your boyfriend explain it to you.

 

[Mordacai]

Well the Tauren SOLO gives me much more flavour and vapour than my Vaporesso Skrr tank with the 0.5 ohm CCell coils, especially when it's wicked right. They're $18.25 at fasttech with the MAP code at checkout.

At present using a 6 wrap SS316L 25AWG (0.68mm × 0.27mm) spaced flat wire coil at around 0.37 ohms in TC mode and you can chain vape it without issue, I'll try a 6 wrap spaced 27AWG SS316L round wire coil at plus 0.6 ohms with it on my next rebuild which is looming.

And some easy info to remember is that the lower the number wire gauge, the thicker the wire. And thicker wire has less resistance than thinner wire, but if you go too thin it gets annoying and nigh on impossible to use.

And your wicking will get better with experience. Like I mentioned, you have to find the goldilocks zone. Also don't be afraid to try various wicking materials as well, as you have to find out what works for you best. Cremedevape does meter lengths of Rayon for trial experimentation, don't know how much shipping would be though for you.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Yes @Punk In Drublic that much I know about them, that's the idea that if I do it, I would use both/eighter of them in TC mode and see if maybe that way I can keep the heat down while still getting a decent hit?
When I asked for an explanation I meant if you could tell me more about that whole "surface area low mass" stuff that you where talking about as it relates to these 2 materials.

Mass dictates the time it takes for a coil to heat up. The higher the mass the longer it will take to raise the coils temperature by a given amount with a given amount of power. Mass also dictates how quickly the coil is able to cool down.

We can mitigate the time it takes to heat something of higher mass by increasing the power – but in doing so we also increase temperature and time it takes to cool down.

Surface area of a coil dictates how much vapor is produced which is also influenced by how much power is applied. If you took 2 different coils of the same mass but different surface area, the coil with the most surface area will produce the most amount of vapor under the same power. This is logical for it is difficult to measure the amount of vapor production. That said, it is also possible to increase vapor production of the coil with the lower surface area by increasing power. Unfortunately that also increases temperature.

There are other factors involved such as the Specific Heat of the metal that I purposely left out for the sake of keeping this simple.

Titanium is very low in mass in comparison so less power is needed to raise it’s temperature by a given amount than say Kanthal of the same dimensions. The problem with Titanium is that it MUST be used in temperature control to keep it from reaching hazardous temperatures. Temp Control is not difficult but requires a level of understanding. Perhaps learning temp control with a less hazardous metal such as Stainless Steel is beneficial.

 

[Don29palms]

Well the Tauren SOLO gives me much more flavour and vapour than my Vaporesso Skrr tank with the 0.5 ohm CCell coils, especially when it's wicked right. They're $18.25 at fasttech with the MAP code at checkout.

At present using a 6 wrap SS316L 25AWG (0.68mm × 0.27mm) spaced flat wire coil at around 0.37 ohms in TC mode and you can chain vape it without issue, I'll try a 6 wrap spaced 27AWG SS316L round wire coil at plus 0.6 ohms with it on my next rebuild which is looming.

And some easy info to remember is that the lower the number wire gauge, the thicker the wire. And thicker wire has less resistance than thinner wire, but if you go too thin it gets annoying and nigh on impossible to use.

And your wicking will get better with experience. Like I mentioned, you have to find the goldilocks zone. Also don't be afraid to try various wicking materials as well, as you have to find out what works for you best. Cremedevape does meter lengths of Rayon for trial experimentation, don't know how much shipping would be though for you.

Good advice but she won't use it.

 

[VlKlNGS]

Thanks @Punk In Drublic , that makes it a bit more clear, I think.

Btw @Mordacai what wattage are you running that build at and how's the juice consumption per how many hits?

Sadly the website doesn't mention if those wires are flat or round... but from what you're saying(if I do decide to trow more money at it) guess I would buy 1 SS spool at 25 AWG and 1 SS spool at 23 and play around with them, see what's what. And I'll save going on titanium for later when/if I have more experience.

And if by some miracle I get it so good that I decide it's worth a second setup what would be some dual battery squonk mods that do good TC to pair up with the Tauren?
Initially I was thinking of the Dovpo Topside Dual since it has that easy way to fill it from the top, but at least one review that I saw said the TC on that mod is pretty lacking to put it nicely, so...

Yeap, I'm ready to understand TC more @Punk In Drublic , so what's the deal with being able to adjust the wattage along with the temp while in TC for example?

Also, untill I get those if I get them at all, is it safe to run the mod like I described above(battery wise)?

P.S. Where's your promise to never reply to any of my threads again @Don29palms ? I think I liked you better that way.

 

[bombastinator]

Thanks @Punk In Drublic , that makes it a bit more clear, I think.

Btw @Mordacai what wattage are you running that build at and how's the juice consumption per how many hits?

Sadly the website doesn't mention if those wires are flat or round... but from what you're saying(if I do decide to trow more money at it) guess I would buy 1 SS spool at 25 AWG and 1 SS spool at 23 and play around with them, see what's what. And I'll save going on titanium for later when/if I have more experience.

And if by some miracle I get it so good that I decide it's worth a second setup what would be some dual battery squonk mods that do good TC to pair up with the Tauren?
Initially I was thinking of the Dovpo Topside Dual since it has that easy way to fill it from the top, but at least one review that I saw said the TC on that mod is pretty lacking to put it nicely, so...

Yeap, I'm ready to understand TC more @Punk In Drublic , so what's the deal with being able to adjust the wattage along with the temp while in TC for example?

Also, untill I get those if I get them at all, is it safe to run the mod like I described above(battery wise)?

P.S. Where's your promise to never reply to any of my threads again @Don29palms ? I think I liked you better that way.

Almost all wires are round. Generally if they are flat they will both say they are and have a different method of measurement

 

[TrollDragon]

And then even 3 titaniums, no idea what's better SS or Ti(maybe a little explanation of how each works?), up to you:

- Ti 0.5mm;
- Ti 0.4mm;
- Ti 0.3mm;

While you choose those please keep in mind I'm gonna need more info on how TC works and how to run it. Back in the day when I first tried it on a Kangertech Topbox you could only adjust the temp, so it was easy enough to figure out.
But now on these newfangled devices it seems that in temp mode besides being able to adjust the temp you can still adjust the wattage, what's that about?

Since you know absolutely nothing about TC and don't have a mod with proven TC functionality, you need to avoid Titanium and stick to SS316L or SS430 to learn TC on. Glowing Titanium coils creates TiO2 (Titanium Dioxide) which is classed as a IARC Group 2B carcinogen. Titanium Grade 1 is one of the best choices for TC but you need to know how to use it and have a mod that does TC properly, like a DNA or high end Yihi.

Here is a method that cigatron and most of us who still run Ti use to dry burn coils. (I have a dry burn profile set up on my DNAs to do this, but I don't use Ti that often anymore.)

Dry burning Ti:
If you have a mod with adjustable tcr set the tcr to .00700. Set the temp to 600°f and fire it as long as you like to burn off the gunk. Don't forget to change your tcr back to .00366-.00410 when you're done dryburning though, otherwise you're in for a super hot burny vape!

If no adjustable tcr start by setting your wattage low in power mode, like 15w for dual coils and 7w for a single coil. As soon as ANY part of the coil shows red let off the fire button and blow on the coil(s). Blowing on the coil will help cool it very quickly but also will encourage smoldering of the gunk if any is present. Once no red can be seen fire again and repeat as necessary until the gunk has turned to ash. Scrub the coil(s) with a wet toothbrush and rinse thoroughly with water.

The MOST important thing is to not let the coil get entirely red. If the last wrap on each end of the coil begins to turn red you've over heated the Ti and it undoubtedly has created Ti02. I recommend replacing the coil (s) if that happens.

After some practice you can turn the wattage up a little to help get gunk smoldering faster but it becomes easier and easier to over heat the Ti.

If you are insistant on trying Ti, have a look at this thread.
Titanium wire, vaping and safety

and this one.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance

Only purchase Grade 1 Titanium from places like Unkamen or similar, also Sweet Spot Vapes (SSV) is not Grade 1 and it requires a custom wire profile to use it in TC.

 

[VlKlNGS]

I see, cool, thx @bombastinator .

Right... I forgot I was dealing with a creature of such high intelligence as yourself @Don29palms . I would tell you to go F yourself at this point, but you most likely wouldn't be able to figure out how to do it, so I'm not gonna bother.

Nope, no insistence to try Ti @TrollDragon , I was just listing it as one of the possible choices I had. I'll stick to ss 316L for now. But thanks for those links, I'll check them out.

 

[Zaryk]

I noticed you seem to pick out complex wires wrapped in 32g. That alone causes the coils to cool down slowly alone, giving much more time to transfer heat to the rda components. Thinner wrap wire is going to heat up and cool down faster and waste less energy.

Single coil in the drop dead isn't ideal since it has so much open space, so it's not going to give you a great single coil experience.

You may be claiming good flavor now, but since it I your first rda you have no other rdas to compare it to. If flavor is the goal try a Haku Venna or Gas Mods GR1, these pump flavor into your mouth.

For ease of use and good performance, a Profile seems reasonable for you. That would probably be your best bet.

 

[bombastinator]

And your stupidity rolls on. Your boyfriend must love having a dumb blonde for a girlfriend.

You keep taking advice from two of the biggest argumentative trolls on this site so it's no wonder you won't have any success.

Keep up the entertainment. It really is funny.

In this case “argumentative troll” seems to actually mean “people who regularly disagree with you”.
They are not the same thing.

I personally will take “argumentative”. I have and remain willing to say when I think something is false. I also can and have backed down those times I saw that what I was saying was false.

Troll though is another thing. I never intentionally troll here. Trolls don’t believe what they say. They attempt to manipulate people.

Is what you have said about RTAs factually false? I don’t know for sure so I didn’t say anything. It’s quite questionable, and you’re using a lot of extreme language so the degree to which you actually think something in this case is hard to gauge.

I do know I’m not a troll though, and I know that insulting someone isn’t going to help make them agree with you in most cases.

 

[VlKlNGS]

True @Zaryk , no other rdas to speak of and my main point of comparison being the SKRR tank, hard to judge fairly that way.
At the same time with some many choices(Venna, GR1, Tauren, Profile, etc.) and with the first one not working out all that great you can understand why I would be reticent to put even more money into it, right?

 

[mimöschen]

The ones I tried so far, no idea if they are "high mass" or not @bombastinator .





Yeah, I get what you're saying @TrollDragon , but I'm kinda reluctant to put more money into it at the moment and risk getting the same results... Even with these ones(heat aside) the hit is not as quite as satisfying as the one from my vaporesso luxe with the o.2 mesh coils, if I put even less wire into it will I be feeling anything at all at that point?

No TC yet @Pat80 all the coils I have are kanthal, I guess I could try and get some SS ones, but like I said above...

Those coils suck. 32awg wraps are way too thick. They retain the heat far too long without any additional gain, so the heat of the atty builds up very fast.
Get some fused claptons with a thinner outer wire and you should be fine.
I'm running two Kanthal coils with 26x2/38, 3mm ID and 5 wraps in my DropDead and although it gets warm, it's definitively not burning my lips

28x3/38 or 28x4/40 works very nice as well.

 

[greek mule]

Fact #1 If you place correctly the coils,air hits them efficiently.
Fact#2 Low mass plain wire coils is the fix to your problem.

 

[VlKlNGS]

Those coils suck. 32awg wraps are way too thick. They retain the heat far too long without any additional gain, so the heat of the atty builds up very fast.
Get some fused claptons with a thinner outer wire and you should be fine.
I'm running two Kanthal coils with 26x2/38, 3mm ID and 5 wraps in my DropDead and although it gets warm, it's definitively not burning my lips

28x3/38 or 28x4/40 works very nice as well.

Well like I said mate from the wires I would have easy access to buy(apart from single gauge round wires) there are the 2 fancy ones, paste them again below. On one hand they both contain 32awg or above, on the other hand they are SS not kanthal...
So would any of them give me a similar result as the aliens but with less heat(aka who trumps what in this case, the material or the gauge?), or should I just stick to the simple ones and see how those work?

- Stagger Fused Clapton SS316L 0.85Ohm/m, (26AWG+32AWG)*2+32AWG;
- SS316L Juggernaut core 2* [SS316L 0.32mm(28AWG) + SS316L 0.1mm(38AWG)], exterior SS316L 0.1mm(38AWG) * SS316L 0.5mm(24AWG);

 

[greek mule]

Agree with @Don29palms, air will come in from the side and go up. Not down.

I use daily my drop dead and believe me,not a dry hit ever,nor scorched cotton.How do you know that air is going up?