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Where are you buying wire where there is such limited selection? There are plenty of places online that you can find much wider selections of more suitable options, like lightning vapes for instance.
Staggered and Juggernaut wires suck as well imo. They may look nice but perform extremely poor.
If you can't get your hands on some decent low mass fused clapton wire, get some simple 24awg Kanthal wire for a start.
Kanthal has a lower mass than SS and is therefore more energy efficient. You might not be able to vape Kanthal at a quadrillion watts due to its higher resistance, but then again you don't need to.
Or the other way round: SS needs a lot more power to heat up in the first place than Kanthal.
To those who are so sure that vacuum plays a big part on stream of air hhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yeioN9Uphgere is a educating video
If you're getting vapor from the drip tip the the airflow is going up through the drip tip. Airflow in a vacuum from the top does not and cannot, in an open chamber, go down then go up.
Oen is a con man. He doesn't use vacuum he uses pressure. His air chamber is BS. It is far from scale. You can disregard anything Oen the con man has ever posted. Airflow under pressure acts differently than airflow in a vacuum. Also liquid under pressure or vacuum acts different than air. All of Oen the con man's computer generated examples are liquid projections. Also Oen knows so much about airflow that he designed not only one but two HORRIBLE RDAs that had crappy airflow. His RDAs should be proof enough he has no clue what he's talking about.
@VlKlNGS, I'm using 30 watts with the flat wire and Squonking every 1 to 2 puffs of anywhere upto 10 seconds. Just to make sure my Rayon wicking doesn't dry out and start to singe and using under optimal watts because it starts to taste burnt otherwise.
And have you seen the Tauren SOLO build and review by djslib? It's unbiased and informative.
And I'd say 25, 26 and 27 AWG would be a good starting point. As too low an AWG and mass increases too much and resistance decreases too much.
And for TC capable wire, Titanium has a low resistance as does NiFe30 or Resistitherm (Dicodes TC wire). NiFe30 is supposed to be excellent in TC though, never got a chance to use any yet but it's on my shopping list.
And have you seen the Tauren SOLO build and review by djslib? It's unbiased and informative.
And I'd say 25, 26 and 27 AWG would be a good starting point. As too low an AWG and mass increases too much and resistance decreases too much.
And for TC capable wire, Titanium has a low resistance as does NiFe30 or Resistitherm (Dicodes TC wire). NiFe30 is supposed to be excellent in TC though, never got a chance to use any yet but it's on my shopping list.
I remember a lot of discussion when those videos were released from vapers who are actually in the thermodynamic industry saying he doesn't know what he's talking about.
Oen admitted he was wrong at his earlier videos.He had the conclusion that air is moving directly upwards due to the vacuum.
NiFe30 (non Dicodes Version) works great but the resistance is very low, NiFe48/52 is a great alternative and doesn't need as many wraps.
SIGH, I'm confused again @mimöschen ... 
So in the end is it kanthal that has less mass then SS and is therefore better in terms of rampup and heat?
From the first couple of pages I got the feeling it was the other way around and since SS can also be used in TC mode I figured it would be easier to keep the temp down by just setting it in TC... So which is it?
I'm buying from a site from my own country(doesn't matter which country, I'd rather keep that private if possible please) for this order @Zaryk . Now while other local sites may(or may not) have better wire the reason why I'm not looking is because when it comes to coil jigs this literally seems to be the only site in my country that has a decent one.
And since I'm gonna need one of those too(plus other things) now that you got me looking at wires and having to build my own coils and since I also need to save 500$(if not more) by November to upgrade my graphics card on black friday I really can't afford to buy different things from a bunch of different sites and end up paying more for shipping then the actual freaking things I buy...
So for now here's the selection of kanthal wire from this particular site:
Spools:
- 0.40mm (26 AWG);
- 0.35mm (27 AWG);
- 0.32mm (28 AWG);
- 0.30mm (29 AWG);
- 0.28mm (29 AWG);
Then a couple of tubes with just 10 pieces of wires each, all of them 118mm in lenght(no idea how many wraps I can get out of that):
- Hive Wire: core 2*0.25mm (30 Gauge), exterior 0.25mm (30 Gauge);
- Tiger Wire: core 1*0.4mm (26 Gauge), exterior 1*flat wire 0.2*0.8 mm;
- Flat Twisted Wire: 2 of 0.2*0.8 mm;
- Quad Wire: 4 of 0.32 mm (28 Gauge);
LE: Thanks for the info @Mordacai , I'll check out that review too.
So in the end is it kanthal that has less mass then SS and is therefore better in terms of rampup and heat?From the first couple of pages I got the feeling it was the other way around and since SS can also be used in TC mode I figured it would be easier to keep the temp down by just setting it in TC... So which is it?
I'm buying from a site from my own country(doesn't matter which country, I'd rather keep that private if possible please) for this order @Zaryk . Now while other local sites may(or may not) have better wire the reason why I'm not looking is because when it comes to coil jigs this literally seems to be the only site in my country that has a decent one.
And since I'm gonna need one of those too(plus other things) now that you got me looking at wires and having to build my own coils and since I also need to save 500$(if not more) by November to upgrade my graphics card on black friday I really can't afford to buy different things from a bunch of different sites and end up paying more for shipping then the actual freaking things I buy...
So for now here's the selection of kanthal wire from this particular site:
Spools:
- 0.40mm (26 AWG);
- 0.35mm (27 AWG);
- 0.32mm (28 AWG);
- 0.30mm (29 AWG);
- 0.28mm (29 AWG);
Then a couple of tubes with just 10 pieces of wires each, all of them 118mm in lenght(no idea how many wraps I can get out of that):
- Hive Wire: core 2*0.25mm (30 Gauge), exterior 0.25mm (30 Gauge);
- Tiger Wire: core 1*0.4mm (26 Gauge), exterior 1*flat wire 0.2*0.8 mm;
- Flat Twisted Wire: 2 of 0.2*0.8 mm;
- Quad Wire: 4 of 0.32 mm (28 Gauge);
LE: Thanks for the info @Mordacai , I'll check out that review too.
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Perhaps Oen is a con man or he isn't.Using this rda and having not heat/burnt cotton/dry hit/issues,isn't this a proof of proper airflow function?
Yes and no. It's really more of a confirmation that you know what you're doing when it comes to properly setting up a build. I, like many others, had a Dead Rabbit RDA. I could easily make it work just fine. It doesn't change the fact that it is a bad design and it's a junk RDA. The Drop Dead is better than the Dead Rabbit but not by much. Just about any RDA on the market nowadays is better than the DR or the DD.
@VlKlNGS, when we say mass we mean heat capacity. It's very hard to explain easily, but if you Google specific heat capacity you'll be able to find plenty of info about it.
And Kanthal has a high resistance, higher than Stainless Steel and many other metals.
And Kanthal has a high resistance, higher than Stainless Steel and many other metals.
Kanthal ramps up faster than SS, because SS has 13% more mass than Kanthal and 23% higher heat capacity.SIGH, I'm confused again @mimöschen ...
From the first couple of pages I got the feeling it was the other way around and since SS can also be used in TC mode I figured it would be easier to keep the temp down by just setting it in TC... So which is it?
To offset that you can/have to put more power into SS coils.
In simple terms, heat capacity of a coil is the amount of energy needed to heat up/ramp up the coil before it starts to produce vapor.
And now the interesting part. Heat capacity is also an indicator for the amount of heat that's stored inside the coil after vaping, which not only heats up the atty when idle, but gunks up your coils a lot faster as well.
TC mode keeps the temp at the selected level when vaping. But only if the mod is capable of delivering a good TC performance. Yours doesn't.
TC mode does not effect the cooldown of your coils however. As explained above, your big chunky coils stay hot a lot longer than needed, and so they heat up the atty although you're not even vaping.
In the end it's a lot more efficient to build a coil with a large surface area, but with a small/reasonable mass and heat capacity.
Your fancy coils are useless for this task.
From all the wires you mentioned above, for me personally I'd choose the simple round wire 26awg spool and build two spaced parallel coils.
See this is what I’m talking about. Who else’s fault would anything be? Ever? For anything? It’s a rant without substance.
I watched quite a few of his videos, while entertaining, I would hardly call his research scientifically accurate. His scale is pretty far off and his chamber does not represent what really happens in an RDA. He does have little bits of solid info sprinkled in though.
There is a reason low set and bottom airflow designs dominates the market over top airflow open slots like the rabbit rdas have. If the top airflow open slot (without internal airflow routing designs leading the airflow to the side or under the coil) leak resistant rda was a solid design, we would see much more than just a small handful of these designs out there.
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