My Griffin RTA keeps leaking

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absoluttalent

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Apr 26, 2014
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Yes, I was referring to #2 in above.
There are a total of 5 o-rings
Starting from the top

one is located between the top of chimney and underside of topcap
2, 3, 4, you located in the above picture (as 1, 2, 3)
and 5 is located between the base and the deck cover (whcih ive seen in your pictures)

The first few times i filled my griffin, it did leak through the airflow holes. I was doing what everyone said, close juice flow and close air flow. Didnt matter.

But I started to leave my airflow open, closed my juice flow. And made sure to leave a air space at the top. Looking at the glass from the side, the airspace will be about the thickness of the airflow hole. Put the cap on (with a little juice on the o-ring the cap sits on, just to lube it), open juice control, take a quick primer puff. I have not had any leaks since then.

Does it leak when the cap is still off and juice flow is closed? Or does it start when you put the cap on?
If it leaks with the cap still off, then the juice flow could be faulty or not sealing correctly when closed. or the chimney is not tight enough. Or the deck is not seated correctly into the base (it is pressfitted, not meant to be removed)
 

zenga

Multiple ID Suspension
Feb 24, 2016
31
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I'm sorry but ur link is not tap able to me..
I have a 3.0 mm ID INSIDE DIAMETER COILS ON MINE...
Can I please see ur coils?


Vape On[emoji100]
Ah ok, I somehow misread that as how long my wicks were. The diameter of my coils are closer to 2mm than to 2,5mm after measuring (precision screwdrivers are on their way from china, don't own any atm).
 

zenga

Multiple ID Suspension
Feb 24, 2016
31
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Yes, I was referring to #2 in above.
There are a total of 5 o-rings
Starting from the top

one is located between the top of chimney and underside of topcap
2, 3, 4, you located in the above picture (as 1, 2, 3)
and 5 is located between the base and the deck cover (whcih ive seen in your pictures)

The first few times i filled my griffin, it did leak through the airflow holes. I was doing what everyone said, close juice flow and close air flow. Didnt matter.

But I started to leave my airflow open, closed my juice flow. And made sure to leave a air space at the top. Looking at the glass from the side, the airspace will be about the thickness of the airflow hole. Put the cap on (with a little juice on the o-ring the cap sits on, just to lube it), open juice control, take a quick primer puff. I have not had any leaks since then.

Does it leak when the cap is still off and juice flow is closed? Or does it start when you put the cap on?
If it leaks with the cap still off, then the juice flow could be faulty or not sealing correctly when closed. or the chimney is not tight enough. Or the deck is not seated correctly into the base (it is pressfitted, not meant to be removed)
Seems like I'm not missing any o-rings then.

I haven't really left the cap off for an extended period of time, usually I screw all parts into place after wicking, give it a couple of minutes and if it wasn't leaking by then fired up my mod (after which it started leaking almost immediately). I'm fairly sure that by now all parts are screwed tightly enough (definitely the last couple of tries, as I paid extra attention).

Never have removed the base from the deck, but if a couple of more tries won't fix it, then I'm gonna contact my vendor.
 

absoluttalent

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I will parrot what I said above. Try leaving the airflow open, but close the juice flow. Fill juice, leave a visable space you can see through the glass. With airflow still open, put the cap on. Open juice flow, take a primer puff. Then vape and see if it makes a difference.

Honestly, if its still leaking after all this, an exchange might be best. I have heard of issues with the flow holes not lining up properly on some units, although I think those were early productions. So what appears closed while filling might be open on the non visable side.
 
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zenga

Multiple ID Suspension
Feb 24, 2016
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I will parrot what I said above. Try leaving the airflow open, but close the juice flow. Fill juice, leave a visable space you can see through the glass. With airflow still open, put the cap on. Open juice flow, take a primer puff. Then vape and see if it makes a difference.

Honestly, if its still leaking after all this, an exchange might be best. I have heard of issues with the flow holes not lining up properly on some units, although I think those were early productions. So what appears closed while filling might be open on the non visable side.

Will give that a try in a bit.
 

zenga

Multiple ID Suspension
Feb 24, 2016
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I will parrot what I said above. Try leaving the airflow open, but close the juice flow. Fill juice, leave a visable space you can see through the glass. With airflow still open, put the cap on. Open juice flow, take a primer puff. Then vape and see if it makes a difference.

Honestly, if its still leaking after all this, an exchange might be best. I have heard of issues with the flow holes not lining up properly on some units, although I think those were early productions. So what appears closed while filling might be open on the non visable side.
So I gave that a try and it has definitely improved. Chain vaped for a while and nothing was leaking through the airflow. Figured I'd let it sit for a while and comeback to see what happened, so I closed the juice flow and a couple of seconds later I noticed that there was a minor amount of fluid at the top of my vtc mini. Now since I replaced that o-ring with a fatter one (there are 2 sizes of the same diameter) it's entirely possible that is the new cause and the first (leaking through the airflow) was fixed by your suggestion. Will go back once it all cooled down and replace the o-ring with the smaller one and see if that finally fixed it.

Thank you (and all in this thread) so much for your contributions.
 
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absoluttalent

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just a sidenote when I was first dealing with it. I did occasionally have a little on the top of my mod. Best I could figure out, couldve been residual juice between the airflow ring and the base from when it was first leaking. Twisting and letting it sit let it dribble down. Not that it was huge puddles, just a slight ring. That didnt stop until it got a really good cleaning and drying out.
 

zenga

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Feb 24, 2016
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I think u may have the wrong o ring at #2. I think it's suppose to be a small black one. I was having leaking issues as well but I changed all of the o rings and problem solved.


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The one in the picture is the one it shipped with, have replaced it with the 'fat' black one which seems too big and makes the glass sits a bit loosely. Will replace that one with the smaller black one and see if it's helping.
 

zenga

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Feb 24, 2016
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Just looking at your most recent pictures, I'd say you don't have enough wick in the channels. I see gaps. Gaps are the enemy.
It's very possible of course, but too be honest I've tried at this point to use big wicks, small wicks, perky wicks, white wicks, Spanish wicks, yellow wicks, hot wicks, wet wicks, smelly wicks, hairy wicks, bloody wicks, snappin' wicks, silk wicks, velvet wicks, nalga high wicks, horse wicks, dog wicks, chicken wicks, ...

Ok I got carried a lil bit away here. Will definitely try to use some bigger wicks later today, Thanks for the help.
 

84Harley

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Mar 18, 2016
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I had leaking problems in the beginning too, but when wicking you can have absolutely NO cotton showing below the removable little ring, once I realized this I've been leak free!! I did notice in ur last photo there was just a tad below that ring....doesn't take much to screw it up, hope this helps! It is an awesome tank when it works, can't wait for the 25mm version!!!
 
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