I am trying to stay away but I cannot. Wish I had more money!
My latest mod, inspired by all of you.
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I am not positive on this but... I think those batterys are for backup circuits and desigened to run a longer time with minimal output, or a slower current draw.
Hello guys, I have a question? I have been ready some of the modes people here have made and naturally everybody has their own or similar version. Is the wiring the same on the two AA batteries as well as the four battery setup? Like the two battery set I saw on page 3 had the positive connected to the center pole on the N coaxial switch and the negative wire from the on and off switch to the one leg of the momentary switch and the second leg into the ground end of the coaxial switch. Yet the four battery version had the positive connected to the momentary switch instead of the negative? Just a little confused between both designs. Any help would greatly appreciate. Thanks Ice199 
Hello guys, I have a question? I have been ready some of the modes people here have made and naturally everybody has their own or similar version. Is the wiring the same on the two AA batteries as well as the four battery setup? Like the two battery set I saw on page 3 had the positive connected to the center pole on the N coaxial switch and the negative wire from the on and off switch to the one leg of the momentary switch and the second leg into the ground end of the coaxial switch. Yet the four battery version had the positive connected to the momentary switch instead of the negative? Just a little confused between both designs. Any help would greatly appreciate. Thanks Ice199
The wiring is the same. The circuit works the same whether you put your switch in the positive side of the circuit or the negative side. Think of your switch like a valve in a water pipe. It blocks the flow until you change that. It doesn't matter whether you block the flow from the left side or from the right side, just that the two sides don't meet anywhere but the atomizer.
Hello guys, I have a question? I have been ready some of the modes people here have made and naturally everybody has their own or similar version. Is the wiring the same on the two AA batteries as well as the four battery setup? Like the two battery set I saw on page 3 had the positive connected to the center pole on the N coaxial switch and the negative wire from the on and off switch to the one leg of the momentary switch and the second leg into the ground end of the coaxial switch. Yet the four battery version had the positive connected to the momentary switch instead of the negative? Just a little confused between both designs. Any help would greatly appreciate. Thanks Ice199
Wiki - electrical switch (I can't post links yet
)Wikipedia gets pretty lengthy, but to sum it up, the switch simply closes the circuit and allows the current to flow uninterupted. Nico is correct - it doesn't matter if it's the positive side of the current, or the negative. The result is the same. I'm no electrician, but I'm sure there's at least a couple of them in these forums. The electrical switch is probably the most basic component of a circuit, but one of the pros could probably put a better spin on the definition and function of a switch than I have tried to do.
This is a major reason why (I think Nico) pointed out the importance of checking the switch before you buy it to make sure it's an 'always open' switch.
Nomas
Correct. The package stated it is for keeping date/time in the CMOS, but all I've ever see are the coin batteries.
SAFT LS14500 3.6 VOLT AA LITHIUM BATTERY
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]LS14500-1:[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]FRYS.com #: 2977135[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]SAFT LS14500 3.6 VOLT LITHIUM BATTERY
AA LITHIUM BATTERY
POPULAR REPLACEMENT BATTERY FOR PC CMOS DATE/TIME BATTERY[/FONT]
I just thought this would be helpful to point out for all the other people doing this mod that got impatient waiting for the 'real' batteries to show up in the mail.
Save your money. Better yet, send it to one of our suppliers here for more liquid. The batteries will eventually arrive. Spend the time making a simple USB passthrough
Oh how lovely!!!
Thank you NicoWolf for all your great ideas.
Last night I made my 401 NicoStick. Now I get to look at it for however much longer it takes for my batteries to arrive!
I did put a regular AA battery in there and got 1.5 volts at the atomizer connector, so I know it'll work (famous last words) when the batteries get here.
I'm afraid to try it, so for now I'll just slobber all over the ones I see here for my geekgasms
I'm an end user, but I use them well~_*
Ok, freya. How long till you dip your wick in a NicoStick?
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Hi i am new to all of this and i am working on NikoStick, i want to add a USB port to it for charging purposes. Allowing me to charge the batteries without taking them out of the case. Do you know if that is possible without changing the output from the USB or if not do you know what i would have to do to the signal from the USB before it reaches the batteries.
Thanks
-DJ
Thanks
-DJ
The current coming out of the USB port would have to be limited to 4.2 volts and 500mA (250mA would be better) as lithium batteries do NOT do well with a fast charge. The chargers seem to all be set to charge at that current or below. I have NO idea how to accomplish this.
Ok, thanks. I think i know how to limit the USB output, and if i buy the protected batteries would that prevent overcharging, or would i need to implement something else to do that as well?
The Evolution does this, and the PV Pak. So have a look in those threads for starters.
Obviously, as Nico said, the current would need to be limited - and the voltage from USB's 5V. What else you may need to do depends on whether the battery/ies have protection on board, and what conditions it covers.
I think there are some other threads on this topic too.
If you get it going, create a thread to tell us what you did
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Ok well i am thinking that i take the design for the NikoStick and add 2 extra features, I plan to add a USB passthrough mode and a USB battery charging mode. I have not built it yet seing as i dont have the parts, but i hope too soon. I a drew a rough wireing diagram, here is the link (), Sorry for the roughness i just drew it. Please give any advice you have as aagain i am new to all of this
Thanks
-DJ
Thanks
-DJ
ht tp ://s133.photobucket . com/albums/q68/georgelaughalot/?action=view¤t=IMG_3152.jpg
DealExtreme: $2.99 Mini USB Powered Universal Lithium Battery Smart Auto Charger Keychain with TF Card Reader
I looked at a lot of chargers and this would probably be the smallest/cheapest to work with in a small enclosure, I ordered one last week so I should have it soon....Charge rate is about 2-300ma
I looked at a lot of chargers and this would probably be the smallest/cheapest to work with in a small enclosure, I ordered one last week so I should have it soon....Charge rate is about 2-300ma
Wow that is cool. Exersise much caution with this toy. One user said it gets hot. It dose have polarity adjustment though. Think I will have a go at one of these
That sounds amazing i will have to try to mod that in to a case thanks for the find
-DJ
-DJ
I don't want to hi-jack this thread with the 3$ usb charger, but my intend with it was to do a diy PCC case with 2xcr123a in series I would get about 6v, with a diode I would be around 5v, 200-300ma is a bit steep for original ecigarette batteries but I would charge 2 at the same time so it wouldn't be too hard on the batteries. But I'm still undecided to what mod to do with it
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