My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

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dr g

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What's the battery life like? I'm intrigued but I've gotten so used to 26650s that actually last a reasonable portion of the day, and I'm predicting a long wait before we see this new tech in anything but an 18650 form factor.

I think the only answer I can give here is that I don't notice it to be any worse than the previous DNAs. In the end it's a similar kind of regulator, just with a more sophisticated control. On one hand you have automatic throttling which probably lowers average wattage for a drag. But on the other hand you have the full-power preheat shot, plus your usage pattern changes due to the temperature being controlled, e.g. there is less excess heat gathered in the atty itself, and you can take longer drags since they don't overheat.

I guess if you compare the same wattage setting directly the DNA40 lasts a lot longer, but that's not really a fair comparison.
 

ukeman

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What's the battery life like? I'm intrigued but I've gotten so used to 26650s that actually last a reasonable portion of the day, and I'm predicting a long wait before we see this new tech in anything but an 18650 form factor.
Unless I'm mistaken I think Busardo had a beta in a Flask which is a great form factor for double 18650's... a bit pricey but something that i'd be interested in and maybe we'll see more PV's like that once this chip comes out.
 

imsoenthused

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26650s don't make much sense in a regulated mod. Battery tech is most highly developed in the 18650 form factor, meaning you get the best performance to size & weight ratio in that form factor. This is why devices like like the VaporFlask and the BAP mod use dual 18650s, which give you more capacity than a 26650.
They make perfect sense to me, in a "yay I can leave the house with one extra battery instead of a pocketful" sort of way. Yes, not everyone agrees with me. Maybe I'll just not be lazy and build one myself. I'd rather buy one that didn't look like it was assembled by demented monkeys, though. As an example, I have to carry two 18650 spares if I leave the house with my ProVari for the day, and the number goes way up if I grab the Stingray X instead. With my 26650 mod I bring a spare. Just one. That's why I'm curious about the battery life the testers got.
 

Rossum

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As an example, I have to carry two 18650 spares if I leave the house with my ProVari for the day,
How much juice does that equate to? FWIW, I can drain a 6ml bottle in my DNA30 powered bottom feeder on a single 18650 battery. That's with a reasonably fresh (not too many cycles on it) VTC5 or Panny PF. What kind of batteries are you using an how old are they?
 

Pocha

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Unless I'm mistaken I think Busardo had a beta in a Flask which is a great form factor for double 18650's... a bit pricey but something that i'd be interested in and maybe we'll see more PV's like that once this chip comes out.

Yes, it was a Vapor Flask and Vapor Flask has already announced (on their Facebook page) that the next iteration will have the DNA 40.
 

imsoenthused

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How much juice does that equate to? FWIW, I can drain a 6ml bottle in my DNA30 powered bottom feeder on a single 18650 battery. That's with a reasonably fresh (not too many cycles on it) VTC5 or Panny PF. What kind of batteries are you using an how old are they?
I use AW in the ProVari, about 3 months old on those, VTC 5s in the mechanicals, ranging from 8 to 2 months old. I'd say anywhere from 10-25ish mils of juice per day. I can get through a whole day with the ProVari with two batteries if I run a conservative built topper, but I don't enjoy it much. A single battery? No way. Last time I went an entire day on a single 18650 I was still using cartomizers.
 

ukeman

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Yes, it was a Vapor Flask and Vapor Flask has already announced (on their Facebook page) that the next iteration will have the DNA 40.

unfortunately wanting to buy one doesn't mean you get one... they get snapped up within minutes...seconds. ymmv


I got the same *problem"... about 15 ml a day given we still live in a free country.... high nic doesn't agree with me though.
 

imsoenthused

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Yep, that's a lotta juice -- like between 2 and 5 18650's worth. If I was vaping that much, I'd raise my nic. :D
But, then I might have to vape less! Seriously though, my 18 or 12mg juices are my go to strengths, but I usually also hit a tank or two of zero nic on really heavy vaping days, even do it all day if I mix up something good enough to make me not mind the absence of throat hit. Not really fiending for nicotine, I just really like to vape. I never worry about losing a device, because to lose it I'd have to set it down. :)
 

WharfRat1976

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I listened to what the Evolve guy said on the PB video. The ideal is to just boil the juice and maybe a touch higher than that but never to char the juice so the dna 40 is designed to do just that. He is in search of the perfect vape as I suppose we all are. The OP here is as well. I vape at 1.8 to 2 ohms on a vv/VW device as well as at .15 to .8 on an unregulated device. I like the variety. Evolve is a marketing machine and the dna 40 is their latest mousetrap. Regulating coil temperature is pretty genius no doubt and more innovation will follow. I enjoy different types of vapes. Variety is the spice of life. I'm not a "this is right this is wrong way" type of person. The information provided by the OP is excellent no doubt and perhaps will educate many. Evolve will sell zillions of their chips. People will continue to fry their juices. Again, variety is the spice of life...
 

autobiogphnation

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The way I understand how the DNA40 is intended to work is that you control your vape with the power settings and your atty build. You also set a maximum coil temperature which will stop the temperature rise if the coil becomes dry. As long as the coil is wet the temperature will not rise much no matter how much power you put into it.

I don't know if the vape can actually be controlled well using temperature. If I remember correctly from the video it has a temperature accuracy of +-10 deg F. I've never used one, but it seems to me that could well be way too much variability to be able to control the power level and give a consistent vape. I guess time will tell :)

You have to establish the difference between heat and temperature and what they affect. Power (watts) is a unit of heat (not going to explain it, because I'm sure most will get confused when we start taking joules). The temperature is going to affect your taste of the liquid.
Power is going to affect the vapor production/throat hit. The more power you put in, the easier is for that energy to overcome whatever resistance you have in place; it is easier to do work.

Temperature is simple. Let's say you cook a steak or a burger etc. Everyone has a preference on how they like it done, and to achieve that taste preference, you monitor the temperature of your grill. If you overdo it, you're not happy; it is ruined because there's no undoing tough/burnt. So take that example and apply to the taste of your vape: the ability to limit the temperature will let us hit that sweet spot on a new level with taste. Plus you then add in other benefits like build longevity and possible prevention of toxic chemical creation.
 

awsum140

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I think one of the major points of the DNA40 is that resistance doesn't matter if Ni200 wire is used for a coil. Power will be properly controlled by the chipset to prevent any problems (assuming everything in the chipset is working properly) so the hazards of sub ohm producing fatal overloads will be eliminated. Given the fairly large number of people who are vaping at very low resistance levels without a problem on "normal" devices, controlling the temperature is like getting a good insurance policy.
 
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