My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

[OthatGuy]

Well.... Anyone who has been keeping up with this thread knows that recently I was struggling with rather I should either go for a 100W-150W mod (probably the T8) or go ahead and give a DNA40 a try. I decided to do both after figuring out just how cheaply I could do a dna 40 device for.

So for anyone looking for a DNA40 "on the cheap", here's what I did. I ordered the DNA40 board obviously, that was $60.... Now by the time you add in a box, a 510 connector, a usb charger, buttons, screen bezel, etc the price can start climbing up quite a bit... But I found a simple solution....

Elev8 Vape (I assume mentioning them isn't a problem since they are a forum supplier I believe) is selling busted Cana Modz dna 30s. Anyone who has been around for a while knows these things were prone to failure and had tons of issues. So apparently there are tons of these things just laying around that had to be replaced. They are selling them for $5!

It's possibly a bit of a pot luck, but with any luck what you'll get is a box that includes the 510 connector, buttons, wiring (battery and 510 wiring may need to be replaced to ensure it can carry enough current), battery holder, and with luck a working USB charger for $5! Slap the dna 40 in it and you've got a DNA40 device for $65... You can't beat that. Saved enough money that I can still purchase a T8 once they are released or possibly even wait for a higher wattage temperature protection device.

Thank you my friend, I was in your same mission, I have some 40's coming in and my feeder won't be ready for a while so I wanted to give it a shot in something cheap. I just ordered 3, I can't thank you enough!

BTW, do you know what size ni200 is the best, I know that's a vague question. But you know what I mean, I want add cool of a vape as possible with as much dense flavor as possible.

Did anyone offer a deal on small amounts of ni200, 20 ft or less in 34 to 28ga, I think this would be a great idea for companies that sell it, I'd love to try all the different sizes, I don't know what to get I don't want huge coils I wanna keep my heat low, but I also thinking about twisted wire builds prolly 32ga 34 maybe?

 

[MattB101]

Thank you my friend, I was in your same mission, I have some 40's coming in and my feeder won't be ready for a while so I wanted to give it a shot in something cheap. I just ordered 3, I can't thank you enough!

BTW, do you know what size ni200 is the best, I know that's a vague question. But you know what I mean, I want add cool of a vape as possible with as much dense flavor as possible.

Did anyone offer a deal on small amounts of ni200, 20 ft or less in 34 to 28ga, I think this would be a great idea for companies that sell it, I'd love to try all the different sizes, I don't know what to get I don't want huge coils I wanna keep my heat low, but I also thinking about twisted wire builds prolly 32ga 34 maybe?

Don't know what size you would like best. I woukd think whatever gauge you used in kanthal. The device doesn't care as long as the coils fit into the required resistance range. Basically what I recommend is using whatever you are comfortable with.

This fine print is a not so subtle reminder to always read the fine print before signing anything.

 

[rusirius]

Thank you my friend, I was in your same mission, I have some 40's coming in and my feeder won't be ready for a while so I wanted to give it a shot in something cheap. I just ordered 3, I can't thank you enough!

BTW, do you know what size ni200 is the best, I know that's a vague question. But you know what I mean, I want add cool of a vape as possible with as much dense flavor as possible.

Did anyone offer a deal on small amounts of ni200, 20 ft or less in 34 to 28ga, I think this would be a great idea for companies that sell it, I'd love to try all the different sizes, I don't know what to get I don't want huge coils I wanna keep my heat low, but I also thinking about twisted wire builds prolly 32ga 34 maybe?

As matt pointed out, it won't really affect the warmth of the vape. Since the temperature is being limited by the device air flow will play the biggest part in that combined with what type of atomizer you're using.

The basic idea would be to try to get maximum surface area (and therefore vapor) while not exceeding the limits of the 40W it can output... Meaning you want to leave some headroom for the preheat to work.

If I were building say a dual coil fogger for it, I'd probably do something like 13 wraps of 32awg (2.5mm ID)... With a plume-veil I'd probably go with like 5 wraps of 32 or 9 wraps of 30 (3.1mm ID). In general you probably want to stay away from the lower gauge... While it will fire below, I'm pretty sure Evolv recommends a bottom floor of .1 ohm... Hitting that floor with lower gauge wire is going to end up with too much wire to be very effective at 40W or below... At least in my opinion...

 

[Frocket]

I haven't jumped on the DNA 40 yet, primarily because I just got the Sigelei 100w. Not looking to drop a few hundred on a new mod just yet. However, I have been paying attention, because the DNA 40 is intriguing, especially for RTAs, where you can't get to the coil quite as easily as an RDA.

I'm actually starting to move away from RDAs and into RTAs, which seems a little opposite from how most go. Just ordered the Erlkonigin clone, with looking to get an authentic if I'm happy with it.

Anyway, back to the DNA 40 thing - I'm thinking 30 gauge nickel 200 would work best. Of course, I've no experience with it, but down the road when I get into the temp limiting game, it seems like a reasonable starting point. Then I plan on playing with 2mm coils in the 8-12 wrap range.

BOOM!

 

[WharfRat1976]

Thank you my friend, I was in your same mission, I have some 40's coming in and my feeder won't be ready for a while so I wanted to give it a shot in something cheap. I just ordered 3, I can't thank you enough!

BTW, do you know what size ni200 is the best, I know that's a vague question. But you know what I mean, I want add cool of a vape as possible with as much dense flavor as possible.

Did anyone offer a deal on small amounts of ni200, 20 ft or less in 34 to 28ga, I think this would be a great idea for companies that sell it, I'd love to try all the different sizes, I don't know what to get I don't want huge coils I wanna keep my heat low, but I also thinking about twisted wire builds prolly 32ga 34 maybe?

All sold out---great idea. Any ole DNA box will suffice. I will wait for my Clopper to bust than rejig it with a 40..

 

[OthatGuy]

That's my plan I have both in route, I'll have a dna 40 in a hana Clone by next week, I'm gonna try really hard to make it a bottom feeder... What!

 

[MattB101]

All sold out---great idea. Any ole DNA box will suffice. I will wait for my Clopper to bust than rejig it with a 40..

Keep watching them. This is like the 3rd time in a week they've sold out. They'll have more I think.

This fine print is a not so subtle reminder to always read the fine print before signing anything.

 

[DetraMental]

Excellent read that is being used by other group forums. Thank you for the time you took to explain this in such a sensible manner.

 

[rusirius]

Albeit unrelated to the original topic... but... as for the boxes (busted cana) I ordered to swap boards in... They came in today... One of them was actually working... The only thing that was wrong with it was a bad solder joint on the 510... I actually just re-soldered it, tested everything and kept it as is... just to have around as a backup... I mean yeah, it's a cana... but for $5.... You know?

The second one the board itself had failed... won't power up at all... The charging board appears to work just fine... If I had to guess, I'm thinking someone probably stuck a battery in it backwards... So I've started pulling it down and prepping for the new board... I've drilled out the old 510 and in the process of popping an FDV in there. Once that's finished I'll get the board mounted and get things slapped back together and bundled up...

So for what it's worth, if they get any more of these in, they are a terrific value for getting a DNA40 up and running. Like I said, the charge board worked great in both of mine, the wiring was good, trays were good, and barely a scratch on either one of them.

Do be aware that there is TONS of hot glue in these... You have to be slow and careful getting that crap out to avoid damaging the buttons, wiring, etc... It's slow but worth the effort.

 

[ukeman]

I have a Cana Clouper 30 and its great... but sometimes the LED comes on by itself lately; other than that I've had it for at least a few months with no issues.

It has gotten a lot of use in my daily rotation since reading the OP here!
RTA 2.2 Ohms 30g wire, single coil, at 18w 6.5v just awesome compared to previous .8 ohms 26g wire setup. no hot burning vapes.
Aside from the higher resistance, the thin wire = better cool-down makes a lot of difference.

I've got a DovPo eMech 30w with a 1.7 ohms 30g coil at 14w, 4.8v as well for much better results on my RTA's

But the DNA40 is tops imo... using Temp Protection is awesome.
Since I come from a sub ohms background the last couple of years I like a lot of oomph so I set it at 480 degrees and 40w. (30g Ni200 wire, 3mm ID single coil .20 ohms - it started out at .16 ohms a couple days ago)

 

[MattB101]

Started disassembly of mine this evening. Going to take all day tomorrow. Hot glue central. I don't think the board will survive the process. I think I'm going to try a heat gun. See if I can melt it a bit and scoop it out with a little screwdriver.

This fine print is a not so subtle reminder to always read the fine print before signing anything.

 

[BrushyHillGuide]

I stumbled across this OP and it really cleared up some things for me. It had me thinking about the DNA 40 about 1/3 of the way through the OP so I must be learning something here, lol! I'm pretty new to all this and learning as fast as I can. It was rewarding to see that the conversation has gone exactly that (DNA 40) way, and that I wasn't off in la-la land with my thinking. I keep checking the Elev8Vape website looking for those Cana boxes. Hopefully I'll get one before too long. In the mean time, I'm going to put this article to good use with my Sigelei 100.

Thanks for the great post OP!!

 

[rusirius]

Started disassembly of mine this evening. Going to take all day tomorrow. Hot glue central. I don't think the board will survive the process. I think I'm going to try a heat gun. See if I can melt it a bit and scoop it out with a little screwdriver.

This fine print is a not so subtle reminder to always read the fine print before signing anything.

I used a small flat head and just kinda chiseled out small pieces at a time. Some places just prying it away from the metal breaks it free pretty easy. It wasn't for the faint of heart, but I got it all finished tonight including the fdv 510 and modified for magnets on the door and a carbon fiber wrap to boot! I like the dna40, but that nickel sure does take some getting used to when it comes to making coils. What a pain in the ....!

 

[mackman]

Started disassembly of mine this evening. Going to take all day tomorrow. Hot glue central. I don't think the board will survive the process. I think I'm going to try a heat gun. See if I can melt it a bit and scoop it out with a little screwdriver.

This fine print is a not so subtle reminder to always read the fine print before signing anything.

I received a couple today. One turns on but screen is blank other than check atomizer, will check it out later.
The other had a fried board. WTH is with all that glue? I did use a heat gun and when melted you have very few seconds to remove it with a screwdriver or whatever. Someone suggested setting it open side down in a low temp oven and see if it runs out IDK. Took an hour to get enough out to replace the board, but works like a charm. I think it may be easier to get a Fasttech $20 box.

Just checked out the one with a blank screen. It was in stealth mode!

 

[MikeE3]

Started disassembly of mine this evening. Going to take all day tomorrow. Hot glue central. I don't think the board will survive the process. I think I'm going to try a heat gun. See if I can melt it a bit and scoop it out with a little screwdriver.

This fine print is a not so subtle reminder to always read the fine print before signing anything.

I used a small flat head and just kinda chiseled out small pieces at a time. Some places just prying it away from the metal breaks it free pretty easy. It wasn't for the faint of heart, but I got it all finished tonight including the fdv 510 and modified for magnets on the door and a carbon fiber wrap to boot! I like the dna40, but that nickel sure does take some getting used to when it comes to making coils. What a pain in the ....!

This was posted in another thread. Think I'll give it a try when my boxes arrive.

Maybe this will help
How to cleanly remove Hot Glue from nearly any surface - YouTube

 

[OthatGuy]

(MODERATED) that was worth the horrible music to watch.

 

[KFarsalinos]

I want to congratulate rusirius. In our experiments we have seen many of the things he mentions.
I just wanted to add that evaporation is not only happening on the surface of the coil but may also happen between the wraps, because heat also goes to the wick at the gap between wraps.
But he is correct about the surface area, the wattage and time (joules) which affect vapor production irrespective of the resistance (as long as you have a device which can deliver enough voltage to a high - ohm resistance).

 

[rusirius]

I want to congratulate rusirius. In our experiments we have seen many of the things he mentions.
I just wanted to add that evaporation is not only happening on the surface of the coil but may also happen between the wraps, because heat also goes to the wick at the gap between wraps.
But he is correct about the surface area, the wattage and time (joules) which affect vapor production irrespective of the resistance (as long as you have a device which can deliver enough voltage to a high - ohm resistance).

Thank you! I have no doubt it's taking place between the wraps as well. I'd actually be surprised if it wasn't!

I've been playing around a little with the dna40 and it's temperature protection. I'll post more comments about that soon. I need more time to understand exactly what I'm seeing.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read the post and for commenting. I'm sure your time is quite consumed these days.

 

[MattB101]

Guys just wanted to add my thanks to all. Learned a bunch since finding this thread. Confirmed a few things and taught me some new ones. The technical side of vaping intrigues me.

This fine print is a not so subtle reminder to always read the fine print before signing anything.

 

[rusirius]

As promised, I started another thread about my experience thus far with the DNA40... Clicky Clicky