NarDA clone

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SLIPPY_EEL

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Late to this party but just got mine today and am blown away. Flavor is rivaling if not better than my Stumpys and Thumpys and Hastur and Odin and Petris....well, strike Petri[emoji5]

Anyway, put a 26g, 317L SS, 3mmID Parallel ZCOIL on her that came in at .15-.18 ohms.

The trick to trapping dual wires is to twist them once at the ends that loop around your screws and cram them down hard. These screws can take a nice sized flat head driver easily for max leverage.

I love the draw and the flavor is so strong it's almost gagging me out. The SS wire really punches you in the face with flavor. Pics to prove it!
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Ive been having trouble with the cap getting hot, it gets hotter than my 150+W builds in other attys, is yours getting hot? i see you vaping at 55w? i was at 30w tootling away but i dont like attys getting hot and getting my mods hot like this
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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I'm on a 26awg 2.5 ID Kanthal build. Around 8 to 9 wraps firing at 28watts and the flavor seems pretty good.

The Christian Munoz Clear cap also helps to keep things cool.

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I did a similar build but used n80 instead of kanthal and it works great, i did try copying the Rat's build but the two sets of wires on each screw were popping out on the screw down, maybe Rats screw heads are a little wider or something, mine are phillips head and his are flat, the build doesnt look special or anything but i will post a pic anyway when i'm charged back up
 

WharfRat1976

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zoiDman

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I know there was discussion of BFing this atty earlier in the thread. However, does anyone know of a bottom feed pin that will fit? I think the hobo 3.1 fits the authentic but am unsure of this guy.

I think the Hobo v3.0 BF Pin works in a NarDa. But someone should double check that.

I used a Fat Daddy Vapes BF pin in my NarDa. It is a M3 thread.
 
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zoiDman

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Ty, sir. Got a pack on order.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

No Problem Brandon.

Here is a Quick n' Dirt outline on how I do my FDV BF Pins.

Agreed.

Something that works Very Well if one has a Dremel with a Grinding Wheel and a Drill is to chuck on the Head of the 510 Pin so that the 510 Pin threads are exposed. Then to spin the Drill at a Medium Low RPM while turning the Dremel at Medium RMP. Applying very little pressure with the Dremel. Just letting the Grinding Wheel to do the work.

Once the 510 Pin Threads are ground down to the Desired length, you can Flip the pin around and Chuck on the Threads with just the Head of the 510 Pin being exposed. Once Again, you don't need a lot of Pressure with the Dremel. Just let the Grinding Wheel RMP do the Work.

This Tech make it Easy to get a Flat 510 Pin Head with a Very Nice Finish. Just be sure to do the Thread Length 1st. If you do the Head of the 510 1st, you will have Very Little to chuck onto when you turn it around to do the threads.

NOTE: Safety Glasses are MANDITORY when doing this type of Work.
 
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McAnythingReally

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Got my NarDA built the other day. 8 wraps of SS316L, centered between the airflow slots and slightly diagonal to allow air to flow along the long side of the coil. Flavor out of this thing is absolutely ridiculous! I have been blown away by it thus far, and I can definitely believe the hype behind this RDA. Would I go an buy the Authentic? Maybe, If one were to land in my lap for retail price I would definitely be tempted to grab it. The clone however is machined amazingly, and only needs a slight clean up on the airflow to reduce whistling. Knocked my Derringer right out of its top spot currently for my daily driver.

My biggest concern in getting into this RDA was the complaints people have had about how awkward it can be to build. Its a bit finnicky to get the coil laid perfectly between the airflow, but with a little back and forth using my mandrel and some tweezers, it was fairly painless. First build probably took me about 20 minutes to put in, and I feel comfortable that I could get that time down considerably on my next rebuild.

For those who are wondering, I grabbed this version: $9.46 NarDA Styled RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - 304 stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Machining is flawless, screws are true SS, came with spare screws, o-rings, and the usual blue screwdriver.
 

zoiDman

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...

My biggest concern in getting into this RDA was the complaints people have had about how awkward it can be to build. Its a bit finnicky to get the coil laid perfectly between the airflow, but with a little back and forth using my mandrel and some tweezers, it was fairly painless. First build probably took me about 20 minutes to put in, and I feel comfortable that I could get that time down considerably on my next rebuild.

...

When I 1st got mine, I thought it was OK... But Not Good. And building it was a Tad Awkward.

After I used it for awhile with Different Builds I revised my Opinion of it to Good... But Not Great

Then I tried a 26ga NiChrome 80 3mm Build and things went from Good to Great!

One Trick that I found makes building it Easier is to Remove the Negative Screw Completely. And Bent the Coil Leg into a little Hook to go around the Positive Screw keeping the Coil on a 3mm Rod. Once the Positive Side is Tight, I remover the 3mm Rod in the Coil and put the Negitive Screw back in. Giving the Coil Leg a Little Tug while tightening the Negative Screw.

Then I line Up /Raise the Coil using the Smallest Rod I have in my Coil Winding set. I think it is a 2mm.

It works Pretty Well. And it is Easier, to me to do than when Both Screws are in the Deck.
 
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