NEED HELP ASAP

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sdennislee

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High Atomizer normally indicates bad connection, looking at the bottom of your tank it looks like the 510 center pin is recessed therefore, not making a good connection with the center pin on your mod. The center pin, probably brass in color should stick past the threads just a tiny bit.

See my next post below
 
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NolaMel

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You have a really ancient tank on a decent mod.
High Atomizer normally indicates bad connection, looking at the bottom of your tank it looks like the 510 center pin is recessed therefore, not making a good connection with the center pin on your mod. The center pin, probably brass in color should stick past the threads just a tiny bit.

I don't know your tank so not positive on how to adjust the pin. I would try in this order:
1) pull the carto (coil) out look at the bottom, check for damage that would prevent it from making contact with the bottom of the tank, show us a picture of the bottom of the carto
2) take the tank apart and see if you can push the center pin down a bit
3) look at the end of the center pin it make be slotted allowing you to use a screwdriver to adjust it
4) Very very gently using a small jewelers screwdriver slide it around the center pin and ever so slightly coax it out. Be careful not to damage the insulator around the center pin. The insulator will appear as a plastic/rubber looking ring around the center pin between the pin and the threads
tank pin can’t be adjusted I don’t think. I had one back when istick first came out
 
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bombastinator

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You know wayyyy more than me. Could the contact be pushed down too far to make contact?
Could if it was sticky. On either the atty or the mod if the mod has a floating center pin. Some mods, generally older ones have a screw adjustable pin instead. Not sure what this one has.
 
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sdennislee

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Just dawned on me it's a true carto tank, the pin is in the carto not the tank, been a long time since i used cartos. The bottom ring of your tank should come off. This will allow you to take the carto out. The 510 sticking out is the carto. Take the carto out and Very very gently using a small jewelers screwdriver slide it around the center pin and ever so slightly coax it out. Be careful not to damage the insulator around the center pin. The insulator will appear as a plastic/rubber looking ring around the center pin between the pin and the threads
 

Skunk!

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I used to use those back in the day. They are a clearomizer. You could maybe still find coils for it but it would be worth your while to just get a current tank. I will look around for you and see if I can find a good one. You could probably get one with 2 coils for less than a pack of 30s coils. Those coils last about a week. They were good for their time but so many improvements have been made.
 

bombastinator

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Do yk a video on how to do it? Or can you explain it better?
you need to lever it up just a bit one side at a time. The deal is the pin is soldered to the hot connector on one end which is a connection you DO NOT want to break, but the pin itself simply floats freely inside a rubber sleeve that allows it limited up and down movement. It’s held pretty snugly but it will move. You just don’t want it to move too much
 
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bombastinator

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Skunk!

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Hmmmm well maybe it’s not making contact with the modView attachment 772763
20180616_124317.jpg

Hey I got the same mod :thumb:
 
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bombastinator

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Skunk!

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This is similar in design to what you have. It is the center pin in this piece (cartomizer) that I think is causing your problem.

View attachment 772781
It is not a carto. It is a clearomizer. An innokin iclear 30s. Dual top coils and the metal tube is full of wicks.
 

bombastinator

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Just dawned on me it's a true carto tank, the pin is in the carto not the tank, been a long time since i used cartos. The bottom ring of your tank should come off. This will allow you to take the carto out. The 510 sticking out is the carto. Take the carto out and Very very gently using a small jewelers screwdriver slide it around the center pin and ever so slightly coax it out. Be careful not to damage the insulator around the center pin. The insulator will appear as a plastic/rubber looking ring around the center pin between the pin and the threads
Damn your right! I totally forgot that! It’s been years since I messed with those things
 
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