What a bummer dude[emoji20] you just have some bad luck that's all, some people are lucky enough to receive an excellent product from FT but some gets what they're paying for.
Nemesis or nemmy users gather around!!
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What a bummer dude[emoji20] you just have some bad luck that's all, some people are lucky enough to receive an excellent product from FT but some gets what they're paying for.
From your pics, it looks like you have 2 beauty rings under the top cap of your nemmy (the 2 skinny polished rings below the top cap). That is probably the source of your "short" switch pin, and the super crunchy switch. The switch is designed to have the pin tightened down. When you start loosening it to makeup for the extra tube length caused by those beauty rings you're asking for issues.
Give this a shot and see if works better for you. Take both of those beauty rings that are under the top cap off. Take your switch apart and put the stock spring back in there. Make sure the little "rice pin" is back in the groove. Tighten the firing pin in the switch. Put your atty on the top cap flush and lightly tighten the positive pin up to the atty. Put the top cap on the tube (without beauty rings). Put your battery in the tube. Screw the switch onto the bottom of the tube up lightly tight to the battery. See how it feels with the stock spring, if it's still too light try the magnets. When you loosen the firing pin there is no pre-load on the spring and it will be really light.
Also, about your batteries. The 18650 is an ICR cell and I'm not sure about your 18350. These are not recommended for mechanical mods like the Nemesis. You should really consider getting some IMR chemistry batteries for your mechs.
Hope that helps.
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I solved that for some nippled ..650s that I have and that just don't fit without the beuty ring in a sllightly different manner:
First, convert your nemmy to magnets but use four; two under and two over.
Second, you need a slightly lengthened rice pin. You can do that out of a piece of wire or even a large "butterfly" paper clip. Just cut the proper length with a mm to spare and shorten with a fine file.
Next find a a small oring that can be slipped in the knurled screw and fits between this and the lengthened rice pin and place it between the threaded post and the knurled screw. Now you have a working switch that doesn't leave a gap and acommodates a slightly taller battery (button or nipple type).
First, convert your nemmy to magnets but use four; two under and two over.
Second, you need a slightly lengthened rice pin. You can do that out of a piece of wire or even a large "butterfly" paper clip. Just cut the proper length with a mm to spare and shorten with a fine file.
Next find a a small oring that can be slipped in the knurled screw and fits between this and the lengthened rice pin and place it between the threaded post and the knurled screw. Now you have a working switch that doesn't leave a gap and acommodates a slightly taller battery (button or nipple type).
Hey I'm driving into Mexico next week. You think I will have any issues bringing a ecig and some juice with me?
That's pretty ingenious. Nice fix to split the difference of the beauty ring depth, and keep the switch usable.
I've seen most people make up the difference in the positive pin in the top cap. Lengthen that pin and you can keep the switch as designed and avoid a lot of the issues that come with changing the location of the throw. Crunchy button, spring too weak to hold the mod up without locking it, the mod sitting at an angle on the switch. Your work around makes up for most of those issues, again, you obviously understand how the mod needs to function.
I'm trying to suggest starting at a point of simplicity. The basic setup to determine function. It's tough to hear someone say the mod is horrible and things are wrong with it when there are some simple issues to at least try that would set it up in a way that could determine if it's horrible or if it's just setup "wrong".
Fat Daddy Vapes has them, albeit expensive. He says they're much better than the FT ones tho.
I can personally speak to the quality from FDV. I have used the magnets for a few months now. First set lasted me 4 months until a hard fall....but that kind of damage would destroy any magnets. I got some new ones about a week ago and no complaints. Additional suggestion: get the ultimate upgrade kit from fat daddy...makes the throw so much better!
EBay, just confirm sizeFat Daddy Vapes has them, albeit expensive. He says they're much better than the FT ones tho.
If anyone has any extras for sale Pm me I'd be happy to over pay for them.
The on that looks copper almost, looks ten times better in person, I used table salt mixed with vinegar I believe, no ammonia. Made a paste put it on as evenly as possible wrap up in paper towel also soaked with same mix, hung it in a jar for like 24h.
Nice way to adjust the switch[emoji106]
But if you use a paper clip to replace the rice pin, it'll add some more volt drop not too noticeable i think depends on the material of the clip. I've seen someone said that they can buy some rice pins on home depo or some store i forgot. It is called rice pin so if anyone want to try to find it in some store just ask for some rice pin.
Thanks for the tips 23skidoo. That was actually one of the first among many things I tried to get it working right. I have tried every imaginable combination of tube lengths, spring, magnets, spring and magnets, but nothing alleviates the crappy switch action. By the way, I know it looks like two beauty rings under the top cap but it's just one piece. Pic below. Yes, I know removing the beauty ring does shorten the throw but:
1. It leaves a big ugly gap below the AFC.
2. Top cap does not thread on to the tube properly. Threading does not allow more than 1/4 turn.
As for the batteries, again thanks. Safety first. I do use mostly IMR's but they were in my mods at the time. I usually grab whatever batteries are handy to include in pics just to help give an idea of the size of an item.
The reason to replace the pin is the different length. I don't think they come in different sizes. Maybe better to use some copper wire?
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That's a good idea, maybe some really low gauge wire or something.
I just measured a clipped piece of toothpick, it fits! I don't think the material actually matters as the pin only function is to keep the switch assembly from spinning freely. Conductive, non-conductive, it's irrelevant.
It's relevant if the rice pin is conductive, because the rice pin also completed the circuit when comes in contact with the negative pin.
Actually it doesn't. ForeverDiving is correct. Its there to keep the assembly from spinning. So any material that's strong enough to prevent the two parts of the switch from spinning is good. If the switch needs the pin to conduct current there's something wrong with the switch.
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Hmm i thought that every piece that's conductive is contributing to the voltage drop, i guess i was wrong then[emoji111]
My quick fix for the rice pin problem was making some nano coils out of 28g with about 10 to 12 wraps and trimming to length to fit perfectly. Works like a solid piece of metal.
I have had great success with a piece of weed wacker line as a replacement rice pin myself and agree. the pin does not need to be conductive.
Yes actually. The 3D is designed by the same designer as the Nemesis to be a hybrid dripper for it.
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