Nemesis or nemmy users gather around!!

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bsoplinger

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True, sorry, I should mention that I did try, and the Nemmy tube was just a tad too wide. Don't know if the tube is too wide, or the 3d is too narrow, lol. O'well, live and learn!
Sounds like you got a 23mm clone instead of the correct 22mm diameter. If you're ordering from fasttech or focalecig they show the size of the mod. It pays to check that info to make sure that what you're buying is 1:1 at least as far as threads go so that you can use atomizers designed for hybrid use or semi-hybrid adapters.

That said I think it was hcigar or EHPro who made a 23mm Nemesis. So you've at least got a decently manufactured clone even if it can't use the accessories.

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Soundhunter

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Sounds like you got a 23mm clone instead of the correct 22mm diameter. If you're ordering from FastTech or focalecig they show the size of the mod. It pays to check that info to make sure that what you're buying is 1:1 at least as far as threads go so that you can use atomizers designed for hybrid use or semi-hybrid adapters.

That said I think it was HCigar or EHPro who made a 23mm Nemesis. So you've at least got a decently manufactured clone even if it can't use the accessories.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

Its EHPro thats 23 mm - I have the same one in the picture and also have an HCigar - The top caps are not interchangeable. I like the switch in the EHpro much better but it is definitely not 1:1..at least mine isn't..






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anumber1

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took out the rice pin. put a piece of a tooth pick in there since I couldn't find anything big enough to fit in there. So far its working beautifully. Once I find something thicker than a paperclip then I'll change it out. Now the test is to see if any more black spots appear on the copper contact.

10 gauge copper wire (Romex) works good. I have used it in one of my Nemesis clones with good results.

I have also used orange weedwacker line.

Dang things disappear easy!
 

asvaldr

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took out the rice pin. put a piece of a tooth pick in there since I couldn't find anything big enough to fit in there. So far its working beautifully. Once I find something thicker than a paperclip then I'll change it out. Now the test is to see if any more black spots appear on the copper contact.
What about using a flint taken from a zippo? I think it's the same size with a rice pin
 

exnihilo

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Sounds like you got a 23mm clone instead of the correct 22mm diameter. If you're ordering from FastTech or focalecig they show the size of the mod. It pays to check that info to make sure that what you're buying is 1:1 at least as far as threads go so that you can use atomizers designed for hybrid use or semi-hybrid adapters.

That said I think it was HCigar or EHPro who made a 23mm Nemesis. So you've at least got a decently manufactured clone even if it can't use the accessories.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

Yes, it's built well! I ordered from a us vendor. I'm gonna pick up a stainless, I guess from FT. Any links for a known "good one", 1:1?

Thanks guys!

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Vaponators

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I have 2 hcigar clones, never had a pin in either one, the pin stops the button from spinning I'm assuming..?

Yes, It stops the fire button from spinning and it is very easy to lose when you unscrew the adjustable center post on the fire button. That little rice pin popped out on me more than a few times. The last time it happened I couldn't find it so I decided to find a simple, repeatable solution instead of having to buy more pins all the time. Nano coil out of 28g Kanthal. 10 to 12 wraps, trimmed to length.
 

ForeverDiving

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The first one you linked is specifically designed for the Kayfun full not lite and 3.1 versions. The second is for any atomizer. The delrin disc and 2 small brass pieces are for problem atomizers with recessed or flush 510 connector center pins.

Ouch! No wonder I couldn't make it work with the Kf31... :( Thanks for the heads up. As soon as I get home I'll try it with a problem RDA that suffers from a flush pin.
 

ForeverDiving

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took out the rice pin. put a piece of a tooth pick in there since I couldn't find anything big enough to fit in there. So far its working beautifully. Once I find something thicker than a paperclip then I'll change it out. Now the test is to see if any more black spots appear on the copper contact.

Just checked the diameter of a standard pop rivet; it's 2.1mm. The rice pin of my 3d Nemm from FT is exactly 2.0mm. You can use some sandpaper to slim down that to a diameter that slides inside easily, tho the pop rivet will go in, even if a bit stiff.
 

ForeverDiving

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Today I received my 3d Nemesis clone from FT, SKU 1448300 and at the same time another one made by Hcigar that I found at a Mexican eVendor, of course at a higher price than FT but not at all outrageous; the equivalent of US$53.76, 16% VAT and next day delivery included. Side by side the Hcigar is waaaay much better.

Even tho both came with the dreaded springs which were promptly discarded and replaced by magnets, the one from Hcigar took the magnets as easily as unscrewing the silver screw while the one from FT required filing of some excess metal at the bottom of the rice pin channel in the center post that impeded the magnets from going lower than the bottom of the channel.

Fortunately I had a very small file that let me take care of the ill finished part in a few minutes.

This is, BTW, the second time I have to do this in three Nemms of the same SKU from FT. My first one took me quite awhile to fathom the problem.

Once both were ready to receive the mags (SKU 1558901, two down one up), I made a chamfer on the lower inner edge of the brass ring where the post slides and added some dust from a lead pencil to the post as lube. Reassembled. The Hcigar clone is butter smooth, the FT one is stiff, albeit no longer crunchy. The throw is also millimetrically short on the latter. I think I'll remove a thread's heigth from the silver screw and the same amount from the center post and the rice to give it an extra mm of travel.

Now I have four nemms and must find a way to differenciate them, other than memorizing the serials ;). Thinking of mirror-polishing one and blueing another... Opinions, ideas? :unsure:

Edit:

Took the switch from the FT nemm apart and polished the sliding surfaces of the center post, brass ring and top magnet, with the aid of some 2000 grit sandpaper and an ordinary pencil. Also used the pencil to cover the sliding surfaces with lead dust. The FT nemm is now smoother than the Hcigar, tho not by much. IMHO both are as near perfection as it's possible. :D
 
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anumber1

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Today I received my 3d Nemesis clone from FT, SKU 1448300 and at the same time another one made by Hcigar that I found at a Mexican eVendor, of course at a higher price than FT but not at all outrageous; the equivalent of US$53.76, 16% VAT and next day delivery included. Side by side the Hcigar is waaaay much better.

Even tho both came with the dreaded springs which were promptly discarded and replaced by magnets, the one from Hcigar took the magnets as easily as unscrewing the silver screw while the one from FT required filing of some excess metal at the bottom of the rice pin channel in the center post that impeded the magnets from going lower than the bottom of the channel.

Fortunately I had a very small file that let me take care of the ill finished part in a few minutes.

This is, BTW, the second time I have to do this in three Nemms of the same SKU from FT. My first one took me quite awhile to fathom the problem.

Once both were ready to receive the mags (SKU 1558901, two down one up), I made a chamfer on the lower inner edge of the brass ring where the post slides and added some dust from a lead pencil to the post as lube. Reassembled. The Hcigar clone is butter smooth, the FT one is stiff, albeit no longer crunchy. The throw is also millimetrically short on the latter. I think I'll remove a thread's heigth from the silver screw and the same amount from the center post and the rice to give it an extra mm of travel.

Now I have four nemms and must find a way to differenciate them, other than memorizing the serials ;). Thinking of mirror-polishing one and blueing another... Opinions, ideas? :unsure:

Edit:

Took the switch from the FT nemm apart and polished the sliding surfaces of the center post, brass ring and top magnet, with the aid of some 2000 grit sandpaper and an ordinary pencil. Also used the pencil to cover the sliding surfaces with lead dust. The FT nemm is now smoother than the Hcigar, tho not by much. IMHO both are as near perfection as it's possible. :D
I have gotten the FT Nemesis tweak down now also. You describe it well!

Polishing and a bit of work with a jewelers file is nessasary work to do with them to get the switch right but once that is taken care of, they are nice mods.

Somehow I still have not acquired a hcigar one tho.

Maybe the next one will be that one!

I seem to keep aquiring Nemesis clones and selling them on to friends once I get them all tweaked out.
 
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ForeverDiving

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Premise: ALL Nemesis switches are crunchy. It's a design issue.
Reason: There are four surfaces that slide one against another and cause friction and sticking.
Solution: Eliminate those friction areas as much as possible.
Procedure:

Nemesis_Switch.jpg

The Nemesis switch consists of seven parts in two groups.

From the bottom up:

1. Button and Post.
2. Small Spring.
3. Large Spring.
4. Rice Pin.
5. Brass Thread.
6. Delrin Isolator Ring.
7. Contact/Fix Silver Screw.
Note: Some types may have only one spring (#3) and not have #2.

The first thing you may want to consider is to get rid of the springs and upgrade your switch to magnets. You can find them, among other places in FastTech, Kidney Puncher and Fat Daddy Vapes. The KP and FDV are reputedly better, I use the FT ones because they work, are cheap and come in lots of 10. They (all) are fragile!

If you do, you will introduce an extra source of friction but since you will have to deal with others, you might as well opt for it. It's very worthwhile.

Now, prepare a clean uncluttered area, preferably a table and have a plate or bowl to keep the loose pieces from getting lost.

Disassembly of the Switch:

Remove the switch from the mod. Place bottom down on the table and press the Delrin Isolator down. Unscrew the silver Contact Screw. If it's stuck, use some small pliers, needlenose work fine. Take extreme care not to let the top assembly spring up. You will lose your rice pin!. Keeping pressure on the Delrin Isolator slowly remove it from the bottom assembly keeping attention to the whereabouts of the rice pin.

Separate all the pieces an place them on your plate or bowl. Now is the time to clean them thoroughly with a toothbrush and soapy water. Dry them on a paper towel.

The pieces that cause the sticking and crunchiness are:

1. The Center Post which is part of the Button and is the main piece of the bottom assembly. On this piece rest the spring(s) (1 or 2). Remove the springs. If you are going to use magnets, place them where you can find them just in case.
2. The Rice Pin.
3. The inside of the Brass Thread.
4. The Top Magnet.

First we will bevel, chamfer or round some corners. We want to that now before we get to the polishing part. These are:


a) The lower inside rim of the Brass Thread. We need to kill the right angle of it and convert it to a 45° bevel or round surface. The easiest way to do this is with some fine sandpaper and your pinky. Wrap some 1000~2000 grit sandpaper or curve a cardboard nail file lengthwise over the edge of a table (much coarser, not the best solution) and use it to create a small degradation of the sharp edge.

b) The inner edges of the Top Magnet. Using your sandpaper or nail file, you need to kill the sharp inner edges of the Top Magnet where they slide against the Center Post. Just a tiny bit is necessary; remember they're very fragile. Don't drop it! (a good reason to get the 10x lot from FT). If you get them from FT, don't try to separate them with a knife, you will break them!!!.

First, mark the surface facing top with a sharpie. You will need that mark later. Now, with your fingernail push the topmost magnet sideways until you can pinch it between your fingers and pull it sideways. Now again mark the now topmost magnet with your sharpie and slide two of them off the same way. Place them far from the first! Save away the rest.

c) The edges and seat of the Rice Pin Channel of the Center Post. Look at it closely, preferably with a magnifier ald look for sharp edges and burrs. The rice pin slides against this channel. At the bottom of this channel there may be some extra metal that won't let the magnets slide down. Check the area and also sand down with your sandpaper or nail file. The magnets must be able to rest against the inside of the Switch button.

Now the polishing part. Plenty of elbow grease.

a) The perimeter of the Center Post. If you have a Dremel tool you also should have a small buffing wheel. Use polishing compound and the wheel at the lowest speed setting of the tool (if graduable) until you get a high shine. If all you have are yur hands, don't dispair. Use first a 1000 grit piece of sandpaper and then go to 2000 and posibly higher, depending how much you want to remove friction.

b) The Rice Pin Channel itself. Use a paper clip wrapped in high grit sandpaper (2000).

c) The inside of the Brass Thread piece. This being brass is very easy to do. Wrap a pencil in your sandpaper and tape it top and bottom so it doesn't turn nor slides. Place inside the Brass Thread and turn between your fingers applying at the same time a see-saw motion. It should come shiny in a couple of minutes.

Now, lets lubricate.

I've tried everything... Grease of half a dozen types, oil, talcum powder... The best results are from graphite or lead powder. A simple pencil tip does it! Just rub it against the sliding surfaces (Center Post, Rice Pin Channel, Inner circumference of Top Magnet and Inner side of Brass Thread).

Now you are ready to assemble the switch.

First slide the two Bottom Magnets over the Center Post with the sharpie mark facing up.
Next slide the Top Magnet down the post but with the mark facing down. Hold it with your fingers or it will go flying over your head and break.
Now slide the Brass Thread over the Top Magnet with the Delrin facing up. Keep the whole assembly pressed down. Turn the Brass Thread and align its channel with the one on the post.
Pick the Rice Pin between your fingers, or use a pair of tweezers if you find that easier, and slide it on the hole formed by the channels. Keep pressing the whole assembly down.
And finally screw down the Contact Screw and tighten fast. Use some needlenose plyers if needed.

Things to check before and after:

While you have thole switch disassembled, screw the Contact Screw on its thread at the b and check it goes down flush with the top of the Post. If it doesn't, file away some metal from the tip. Place the Rice Pin at the Channel and see it doesn't protrude from the top of the post. If it does, also shorten it. It must let the Center Screw tighten against the top of the Post.

When you finally screw the fixed and assembled Switch on the Mod, check if the inside of the button rubs against the Mod. In that case, take it down and sand the sharp inside circle of the button so it doesn't catch against the outside of the Mod.

That's all folks! You should now have a butter smooth Nemesis Switch that will make the envy of StingRay Magneto and Tree of Life owners!
 
Last edited:

asvaldr

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 8, 2014
233
147
indonesia
Premise: ALL Nemesis switches are crunchy. It's a design issue.
Reason: There are four surfaces that slide one against another and cause friction and sticking.
Solution: Eliminate those friction areas as much as possible.
Procedure:

View attachment 360600

The Nemesis switch consists of seven parts in two groups.

From the bottom up:

1. Button and Post.
2. Small Spring.
3. Large Spring.
4. Rice Pin.
5. Brass Thread.
6. Delrin Isolator Ring.
7. Contact/Fix Silver Screw.
Note: Some types may have only one spring (#3) and not have #2.

The first thing you may want to consider is to get rid of the springs and upgrade your switch to magnets. You can find them, among other places in FastTech, Kidney Puncher and Fat Daddy Vapes. The KP and FDV are reputedly better, I use the FT ones because they work, are cheap and come in lots of 10. They (all) are fragile!

If you do, you will introduce an extra source of friction but since you will have to deal with others, you might as well opt for it. It's very worthwhile.

Now, prepare a clean uncluttered area, preferably a table and have a plate or bowl to keep the loose pieces from getting lost.

Disassembly of the Switch:

Remove the switch from the mod. Place bottom down on the table and press the Delrin Isolator down. Unscrew the silver Contact Screw. If it's stuck, use some small pliers, needlenose work fine. Take extreme care not to let the top assembly spring up. You will lose your rice pin!. Keeping pressure on the Delrin Isolator slowly remove it from the bottom assembly keeping attention to the whereabouts of the rice pin.

Separate all the pieces an place them on your plate or bowl. Now is the time to clean them thoroughly with a toothbrush and soapy water. Dry them on a paper towel.

The pieces that cause the sticking and crunchiness are:

1. The Center Post which is part of the Button and is the main piece of the bottom assembly. On this piece rest the spring(s) (1 or 2). Remove the springs. If you are going to use magnets, place them where you can find them just in case.
2. The Rice Pin.
3. The inside of the Brass Thread.
4. The Top Magnet.

First we will bevel, chamfer or round some corners. We want to that now before we get to the polishing part. These are:


a) The lower inside rim of the Brass Thread. We need to kill the right angle of it and convert it to a 45° bevel or round surface. The easiest way to do this is with some fine sandpaper and your pinky. Wrap some 1000~2000 grit sandpaper or curve a cardboard nail file lengthwise over the edge of a table (much coarser, not the best solution) and use it to create a small degradation of the sharp edge.

b) The inner edges of the Top Magnet. Using your sandpaper or nail file, you need to kill the sharp inner edges of the Top Magnet where they slide against the Center Post. Just a tiny bit is necessary; remember they're very fragile. Don't drop it! (a good reason to get the 10x lot from FT). If you get them from FT, don't try to separate them with a knife, you will break them!!!.

First, mark the surface facing top with a sharpie. You will need that mark later. Now, with your fingernail push the topmost magnet sideways until you can pinch it between your fingers and pull it sideways. Now again mark the now topmost magnet with your sharpie and slide two of them off the same way. Place them far from the first! Save away the rest.

c) The edges and seat of the Rice Pin Channel of the Center Post. Look at it closely, preferably with a magnifier ald look for sharp edges and burrs. The rice pin slides against this channel. At the bottom of this channel there may be some extra metal that won't let the magnets slide down. Check the area and also sand down with your sandpaper or nail file. The magnets must be able to rest against the inside of the Switch button.

Now the polishing part. Plenty of elbow grease.

a) The perimeter of the Center Post. If you have a Dremel tool you also should have a small buffing wheel. Use polishing compound and the wheel at the lowest speed setting of the tool (if graduable) until you get a high shine. If all you have are yur hands, don't dispair. Use first a 1000 grit piece of sandpaper and then go to 2000 and posibly higher, depending how much you want to remove friction.

b) The Rice Pin Channel itself. Use a paper clip wrapped in high grit sandpaper (2000).

c) The inside of the Brass Thread piece. This being brass is very easy to do. Wrap a pencil in your sandpaper and tape it top and bottom so it doesn't turn nor slides. Place inside the Brass Thread and turn between your fingers applying at the same time a see-saw motion. It should come shiny in a couple of minutes.

Now, lets lubricate.

I've tried everything... Grease of half a dozen types, oil, talcum powder... The best results are from graphite or lead powder. A simple pencil tip does it! Just rub it against the sliding surfaces (Center Post, Rice Pin Channel, Inner circumference of Top Magnet and Inner side of Brass Thread).

Now you are ready to assemble the switch.

First slide the two Bottom Magnets over the Center Post with the sharpie mark facing up.
Next slide the Top Magnet down the post but with the mark facing down. Hold it with your fingers or it will go flying over your head and break.
Now slide the Brass Thread over the Top Magnet with the Delrin facing up. Keep the whole assembly pressed down. Turn the Brass Thread and align its channel with the one on the post.
Pick the Rice Pin between your fingers, or use a pair of tweezers if you find that easier, and slide it on the hole formed by the channels. Keep pressing the whole assembly down.
And finally screw down the Contact Screw and tighten fast. Use some needlenose plyers if needed.

Things to check before and after:

While you have thole switch disassembled, screw the Contact Screw on its thread at the b and check it goes down flush with the top of the Post. If it doesn't, file away some metal from the tip. Place the Rice Pin at the Channel and see it doesn't protrude from the top of the post. If it does, also shorten it. It must let the Center Screw tighten against the top of the Post.

When you finally screw the fixed and assembled Switch on the Mod, check if the inside of the button rubs against the Mod. In that case, take it down and sand the sharp inside circle of the button so it doesn't catch against the outside of the Mod.

That's all folks! You should now have a butter smooth Nemesis Switch that will make the envy of StingRay Magneto and Tree of Life owners!

Now this is what i called a guide. Just wished i was as diligent as you, i was too lazy to do that lol.
 

bsoplinger

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Nice write up and decent picture of the switch and what's necessary. I'll draw attention to the bottom of the rice pin channel even though it was talked about. I've found burrs and leftover machining particles there an many a cheap Nemesis, not just my personal ones. A few seconds with a knife, necessary if the pieces are well attached, then a sanding pad make a world of difference in how well the switch behaves.

If you eventually purchase a Stingray clone, the switch has quite a few similarities in design. All the locations that are in common between the Stingray and Nemesis switches are points to polish in the Stingray switch and it will benefit just as much.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
 

SleeZy

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I got 2 more to my collection today. :)
Red and blue, it does look 100x better than on my picture. My camera sucks!
Only thing i need now is red kfl window :)
Also i need to learn how to use the hybrid adapter to make them look even better. :)
And i need another topper on the black one.
QBcKqDd.jpg

I've a brass nemmy aswell which i don't use, i find the aluminuim ones better. :)
 

ForeverDiving

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Mar 3, 2014
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Uruapan, Michoacan, Mexico.
If you eventually purchase a Stingray clone, the switch has quite a few similarities in design. All the locations that are in common between the Stingray and Nemesis switches are points to polish in the Stingray switch and it will benefit just as much.

Thanks bsoplinger! This is a great group and it's a pleasure helping folks avoid the pitfalls we've been through.

I have a Stingray from Hcigar but the switch other than being a bit soft, it's silky as no other mod I've used. I left it standing unlocked inadvertedly and it totalled a Kf31 with a PMA nano kit. It was a $17 junk clone anyway. Its switch fits my nemmys but -oddly- not the top deck. :confused:
 
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