New Batteries coming soon - ProVari Power 2500

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seanmc

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Yeah this shouldn't be happening, I used dual coil 1.5ohm Ego cartos all day...and depending on how much I vape...I get at least 6hrs minimum (on average I get around 10). Definitely check the voltage right after you get it off the charger, it may not be charging it all the way. What kind of charger are you using?
 

progg

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Are checking with the provari and the atty screwed on? If you are, that's loaded voltage, try unscrewing the atty and see what it says.

Excellent tip!!

duh duh duh ... forgot about the loaded voltage thingie .. checked it without anything screwed on it and it's 4.2. Thanks!


To add to Tasteles' excellent reminder -- You really should consider adding another thingie to your vape kit.

A digital multimeter will confirm (or not) your ProVari voltage reading and you can test your attys. It really is an easy thingie to use. :)
 

mendnwngs

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Hmmm.. I grabbed my tester 510-510 adapter.

My Provari shows the battery charge (under load) at 3.6V, but the multimeter (at the same time) shows 3.27V

Conversely, The meter shows the Provari putting out voltage within 0.06V of measured.. So set at 4.8V, and I measure 4.86V under load

I wonder why the big difference in the battery level test.. 0.33V is the difference between a discharged Lithium, and a never-to-be-recharged-again lithium :(

This is with one of those 2500mAh batteries Provape sells.. I've been getting the low battery light at sometimes, as high as 3.8V!

Plus, when I screw the cap on with a fresh 2500mAh battery, the LED on the provari rapidly flashes, like 10 flashes a SECOND, until I unscrew the atty.. Once the atty is removed, then reattached, the Provari works normally..

I think I may go back to my 18490s until the genuine 18650s show up :(
 
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sahilm

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Hi all and hope my message finds you all in great health and spirit .
I have been using the provari for about 3 months now and love it , recently started using the clear smoketech xl ( 2.5ml capacity) cartomizers on the provari and was getting only about 1-2 hours of vaping off the 1600 mah hd batts . i sent the provari back to provape and David ( a complete sweetheart he is ) checked it and sent it back to me along with a free 2500 mah batt and the plastic ring , i am now using the 2500 mah batt and getting about 3 hours from the dc's , i do not chain vape ... any one else getting a low run time off the provaris with dual coils on them , i am using them on 3.9 volts ...
thanks and warm regards
Sah .

[/QUOTE]You can pretty much expect DC's to cut your vape time in half. They are the equivalent of running 2 atomizers simultaneously.[/QUOTE]


[/QUOTE]If I had to guess I'd say your battery charger is not working correctly - are you checking the battery voltage?

There is no way this should be happening.[/QUOTE]


[/QUOTE]Yeah this shouldn't be happening, I used dual coil 1.5ohm Ego cartos all day...and depending on how much I vape...I get at least 6hrs minimum (on average I get around 10). Definitely check the voltage right after you get it off the charger, it may not be charging it all the way. What kind of charger are you using?[/QUOTE]
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HI again everyone and thank you for your prompt replies , to start with i was using a tr001 charger which i got from provape and thought that the charger may be spoiled , i bought 2 more chargers one is a tr0004 and another one i cant remember atm. .. the batts come off at 4.1-4.2 volts every-time but last only for 3 hours or so while using the dual coil cartoz , also once the low battery light starts flashing it dies out completely in about 7-10 minutes if not in 5 !! ...
I really dont know what to do except probably sending it back to David for a check-up again . )-:
 
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cozzicon

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To add to Tasteles' excellent reminder -- You really should consider adding another thingie to your vape kit.

A digital multimeter will confirm (or not) your ProVari voltage reading and you can test your attys. It really is an easy thingie to use. :)

Yup.. I've done this to test accuracy. My Provari is pretty much "dead on balls accurate" (industry term :p) for voltage and a tad low for ohms (About .1 of an ohm low). But then again my multi meter isn't exactly a Fluke, and I'm sure the test leads are garbage. So it's kind of a toss up as to which is accurate. Also the atties we test aren't exactly coming off the line right at their ratings.

It would be interesting if someone with good test equipment could make a comparison test between the two.

I suppose it's a meaningless test... the thing vapes like a monster. But some of us (like you and me) seem to geek out a bit over our PVs.
 

cozzicon

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I have calibrated meters at work.. If I can, I'll throw my provari (soon to have a second one in my grasp!!) on there, and see just how close it really is..

FWIW, I'd bet they're well within a small tolerance (say 5% or so)

That would be my take. Drop the results when you have them. I'm interested :)
 

fender0942

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I have a question. I was previously told that you NEED the high drain aw's because of amperage draw. Is the new provari battery high drain? Is the previous info true? If it is you would be giving up performance for battery life. I understand the whole buck/boost circuitry but the battery needs to handle the amp draw to not dip in performance right???
 

ukeman

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according to provape it performs fully camparable; see ealier posts.

SuperT has an AW thread that shows graph comparing both AW IMR and P18650 . The IMR has higher peak production early on but only slightly and the P18650 sustains the IMR average production for much longer.
I know that provape doesn't t say who builds these, but imo they are similar.
I have a question. I was previously told that you NEED the high drain aw's because of amperage draw. Is the new provari battery high drain? Is the previous info true? If it is you would be giving up performance for battery life. I understand the whole buck/boost circuitry but the battery needs to handle the amp draw to not dip in performance right???
 

Dalton63841

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I have a question. I was previously told that you NEED the high drain aw's because of amperage draw. Is the new provari battery high drain? Is the previous info true? If it is you would be giving up performance for battery life. I understand the whole buck/boost circuitry but the battery needs to handle the amp draw to not dip in performance right???

The higher capacity batteries do not require high drain to safely handle the power draw that the booster requires. As an example...

18650 1600mAh High Drain handles 3.5C(just an example), which means it can handle 1600 * 3.5 = 5.6Amps total power draw from the battery safely.

18650 2500mAh Protected handles only 2C(just an example), which means it can handle 2500 * 2 = 5Amps total power draw from the battery safely.

As you can see, the Protected battery still provides PLENTY of power draw safely.
 

mendnwngs

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Okay, Heres the results.. I grabbed a few attys, at varying resistances, and was able to test both my Satin provari, and my (just came in today) Black chrome Provari. For all tests, both Provaris were turned down to 3.3V

Tested with a Fluke F87V, last calib. May 6th, 2011.
Using a 510-510 adapter with alligator leads connected to the

Atty:
Ikenvape Cannon HV 510 (labeled 3.5Ohms)
Fluke: 3.52Ohms
Satin: 3.65 (it went back and forth between 3.6 and 3.7)
B. Chrome: 3.6Ohms

Atty: Standard Joye 510 atty
Fluke: 1.91 Ohms
Satin: 1.9 Ohms
B. Chrome: 1.9 Ohms

Atty: Standard Joye 510 (#2)
Fluke:2.20 Ohms
Satin: 2.2 Ohms
B. Chrome: 2.2 Ohms

Atty: Joye 510 LR atty
Fluke: 1.55 Ohms
Satin: 1.6 Ohms
B. Chrome: 1.6 Ohms

Carto: Iken Gold carto V2
Fluke: 2.14 Ohms
Satin: 2.0 Ohms
B. Chrome: 2.1 Ohms

VOLTAGE TESTS:

3.5 Ohm atty @ 3.3V
Satin: 3.275V
B. Chrome: 3.295V

3.5 Ohm atty @ 4V
Satin: 3.999V
B. Chrome: 3.998V

3.5 Ohm atty @ 4.5V
Satin: 4.510V
B. Chrome: 4.498

3.5 Ohm atty @ 5V
Satin: 5.022V
B. Chrome: 4.987V

3.5 Ohm @ 5.5V
Satin: 5.529V
B. Chrome: 5.485V

3.5 Ohm @ 6V
Satin: 6.050V
B. Chrome: 5.983V

--------------------------------

Well, theres some info.

The units are (as kinda expected) well within a good tolerance.
It looks like on the voltage the biggest difference between setpoint, and measured was 5 *hundredths* of a volt over.

The resistance was pretty close too..
 
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