I think i will stick with AW IMR 18650s. I keep seeing people having a problem of early low battery warnings with these batteries even after switching back to the AW IMRs. Id rather my ProVari stay as good as new
Me to!
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Me to!
18650s are an exception to the "rule" that you need a high drain IMR battery for higher voltages. The rule of thumb is that you double the capacity to get the max amps that the battery can support.
So for a 2500 mah 18650 2x2500 milliamps = 5 amps, which is a bit more than you need at higher voltages.
The highest 18500 I've seen is 1800 mah (which may be exagerated) so that gives you 3.6 max amps.
At a high voltage, you are pulling max 2.5 amps to the atty + whatever amps required to boost the battery voltage. You can exceed the capacity of the battery, which will result in straining the battery, poor performance, and possibly battery damage and dangerous results.
Theoretically I suppose you could use a protected 18500 (not sure if it would fit with the non extended cap) if you only went low voltage but it is probably a VERY bad idea!
EDIT: btw I've gotten 2+ days out of the protected 18650s so I love it!
could you explain why the flat top 18650's are not recommended?
I would guess its just because they physically don't make a connection with the internals of the Provari. Just the shape of the internal connector.
ProVari Specifications:
4.1" L x 0.90" D (stock 18500 battery version) (without atomizer)
4.6"L x 0.90" D (with 18650 extension) (without atomizer)
copied from here :ProVari Variable Voltage Ecig: Best Variable Voltage E Cig Available!
would a slim magnet be dangerous to try? i don't trust my mind....
No people use flat top 18650s with magnets sometimes. But they are using the magnets on IMR High Drains still.
Heres a video of someone actually using a Flat Top IMR HIGH DRAIN with an earth magnet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbngKvwUvSA
Heres a video of someone actually using a Flat Top IMR HIGH DRAIN with an earth magnet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbngKvwUvSA
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My guess would be not dangerous but I have no experience with this.
1300 views of the youtube vid since June... and no problems reported THERE with using magnets on the IMR 18650.
Mike-I go away for a few days and you get yourself into all kinds of trouble ;-)
I don't think it's a good idea to use magnets.
First to answer your question, flat tops/Large Button tops don't work because the PCB has a slot in its edge where the cathode (+ side) of the battery fits in- the actual contact is recessed into this slot - kind of like a tongue and groove where your + contact on the battery is the tongue - you can see it from the bottom if you shine a flashlight in.
WRT the provari, the biggest reason you don't want to do this is at some point in time the magnet will come off of the battery inside your unit and can/will most likely find itself between the PCB and the wall of the unit- good luck getting it out without damaging the PCB. I think there's a real risk of this happening here- also if the magnet is too big or isn't centered properly, you could easily and unknowingly press up against the edge of the board and crack the PCB-
a couple of other reasons to not do it:
* you never want to put a magnet on the cathode in any tube mode because if it does make its way to the edge of the battery it could potentially come in contact with the side wall of the unit (aka - or ground) while still in contact with the cathode. That would be a dead short.
* I've seen it argued that with AWs and other's the PCB in the battery is in the cathode- if you drop your device the wrong way, you're increasing the potential to break the PCB by having all the force in a small area.... for similar reasons, button top (SB) protected batteries should not be stacked.
I'm not going to comment on the likelihood of any of these things happening but they are reasons I wouldn't use a magnet- especially on the cathode of a provari. I'm sure we can find someone who swears he does this all the time...
IMO its an accident waiting to happen, unless you have the cojones to solder the magnet to the top of the battery......
How many of those flat tops did you buy anyways?
I don't think it's a good idea to use magnets.
First to answer your question, flat tops/Large Button tops don't work because the PCB has a slot in its edge where the cathode (+ side) of the battery fits in- the actual contact is recessed into this slot - kind of like a tongue and groove where your + contact on the battery is the tongue - you can see it from the bottom if you shine a flashlight in.
WRT the provari, the biggest reason you don't want to do this is at some point in time the magnet will come off of the battery inside your unit and can/will most likely find itself between the PCB and the wall of the unit- good luck getting it out without damaging the PCB. I think there's a real risk of this happening here- also if the magnet is too big or isn't centered properly, you could easily and unknowingly press up against the edge of the board and crack the PCB-
a couple of other reasons to not do it:
* you never want to put a magnet on the cathode in any tube mode because if it does make its way to the edge of the battery it could potentially come in contact with the side wall of the unit (aka - or ground) while still in contact with the cathode. That would be a dead short.
* I've seen it argued that with AWs and other's the PCB in the battery is in the cathode- if you drop your device the wrong way, you're increasing the potential to break the PCB by having all the force in a small area.... for similar reasons, button top (SB) protected batteries should not be stacked.
I'm not going to comment on the likelihood of any of these things happening but they are reasons I wouldn't use a magnet- especially on the cathode of a provari. I'm sure we can find someone who swears he does this all the time...
IMO its an accident waiting to happen, unless you have the cojones to solder the magnet to the top of the battery......
How many of those flat tops did you buy anyways?
that's what i'm talkin about! thanks jimho... haha...
if you saw the vid.. Grimm Green didn't catch that...
i have one P18650 2600 flat top... was for my now sold GGTS
all my other pv's are 2x14500 (sgtII), BuzzPro 2x16340, and 2 Vari's of which i have all the AW's for P18650, P18500, and IMR 18650 ... imr 18500 (not sure)
all my batts are now AW except the Provari Power P18650 2500mah's.
if you saw the vid.. Grimm Green didn't catch that...
i have one P18650 2600 flat top... was for my now sold GGTS
all my other pv's are 2x14500 (sgtII), BuzzPro 2x16340, and 2 Vari's of which i have all the AW's for P18650, P18500, and IMR 18650 ... imr 18500 (not sure)
all my batts are now AW except the Provari Power P18650 2500mah's.
.... the imr is 18490.... Do yourself a favor- put it on a shelf till you have something it fits into properly- like the Box Kronos you'll be getting in a month or so...
thanks jimho, when you think of all the pv's that are coming out now, and the thousands of vapers new and veterans, it's scary how much technology is being applied, that we don't know about.
I know for me, it's like "will that pv do that?" ok let's get it... and we don't know what inside or what it all means.
i think you should have you own sub forum jimho... a clearing house for what's up in there.
I know for me, it's like "will that pv do that?" ok let's get it... and we don't know what inside or what it all means.
i think you should have you own sub forum jimho... a clearing house for what's up in there.
Possible Solution for low battery indicator going on early-
Hey folks-
As some others have, I ran into this problem with the new batteries over the past week- the performance was gradually degrading and my indicator was going on between 3.7 and 3.8V. I contacted ProVape and they suggested that the circuit is even more sensitive to resistance with the new batteries and surface oxidation could be the cause. Sure enough, I spent the week by the ocean last week- plenty of damp salt air there... there were oxidation spots on the bottom of the battery where the spring contacts.
Solution- clean off all of the ground connections between the battery and the case - I did this by removing the spring, and using a jewler's polishing cloth (the kind you get at your local mega store) to polish off the battery botom, the spring and the recessed seat in the end cap. That seemed to have worked for me.
If that doesn't help, next step would be to take some really fine metal oxide sand paper (i.e. 1000 or 1500 grade- you can get it at auto parts stores) and gently polish the same connections.... I had done this on the IMRs a few times in the past and it helps.
IF you're experiencing the same issue - I suggest you try this....
Hey folks-
As some others have, I ran into this problem with the new batteries over the past week- the performance was gradually degrading and my indicator was going on between 3.7 and 3.8V. I contacted ProVape and they suggested that the circuit is even more sensitive to resistance with the new batteries and surface oxidation could be the cause. Sure enough, I spent the week by the ocean last week- plenty of damp salt air there... there were oxidation spots on the bottom of the battery where the spring contacts.
Solution- clean off all of the ground connections between the battery and the case - I did this by removing the spring, and using a jewler's polishing cloth (the kind you get at your local mega store) to polish off the battery botom, the spring and the recessed seat in the end cap. That seemed to have worked for me.
If that doesn't help, next step would be to take some really fine metal oxide sand paper (i.e. 1000 or 1500 grade- you can get it at auto parts stores) and gently polish the same connections.... I had done this on the IMRs a few times in the past and it helps.
IF you're experiencing the same issue - I suggest you try this....
Ill try that. I too have had a weird issue since using the new 2500's. The other day, my LED started rapidly flashing, but the battery read 3.8. Funny thing was, the LED was turned OFF. Unscrewed the cap, back in again, and all was normal. This has happened 2 times with 2 different 2500 batteries. Never had an issue with the AW's
i posted on another thread that i was having E8, one symptom was batt charges were reading 3.4 or so with full charge. any batt.
Since E8 was going on all the time, couldn't use it anyway and sent it in per David's email. I tried a few suggestions he made first. this was a brand new one.
I just got my first run unit back from warranty work on the LED window... good as new ... no issues.
Since E8 was going on all the time, couldn't use it anyway and sent it in per David's email. I tried a few suggestions he made first. this was a brand new one.
I just got my first run unit back from warranty work on the LED window... good as new ... no issues.
Just an update- I ended up going to 1500 grade sand paper- I would guess you could probably go as low as 400 or 600.... I glued a small piece on the end of a pencil eraser to get into the spring indent.... and also sanded both ends of the spring- then cleaned it all out with a paper towel wet with PGA..... got down to 3.4/3,3 V before it started flashing... will let you know how the next few batteries play out....
Hi all and hope my message finds you all in great health and spirit .
I have been using the provari for about 3 months now and love it , recently started using the clear smoketech xl ( 2.5ml capacity) cartomizers on the provari and was getting only about 1-2 hours of vaping off the 1600 mah hd batts . i sent the provari back to provape and David ( a complete sweetheart he is ) checked it and sent it back to me along with a free 2500 mah batt and the plastic ring , i am now using the 2500 mah batt and getting about 3 hours from the dc's , i do not chain vape ... any one else getting a low run time off the provaris with dual coils on them , i am using them on 3.9 volts ...
thanks and warm regards
Sah .
I have been using the provari for about 3 months now and love it , recently started using the clear smoketech xl ( 2.5ml capacity) cartomizers on the provari and was getting only about 1-2 hours of vaping off the 1600 mah hd batts . i sent the provari back to provape and David ( a complete sweetheart he is ) checked it and sent it back to me along with a free 2500 mah batt and the plastic ring , i am now using the 2500 mah batt and getting about 3 hours from the dc's , i do not chain vape ... any one else getting a low run time off the provaris with dual coils on them , i am using them on 3.9 volts ...
thanks and warm regards
Sah .
You can pretty much expect DC's to cut your vape time in half. They are the equivalent of running 2 atomizers simultaneously.
If I had to guess I'd say your battery charger is not working correctly - are you checking the battery voltage?
There is no way this should be happening.
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